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<p>I think you are making this overly complex. </p>
<p>I purchased a <a href="http://amzn.to/25pPIe9">Kindle Fire</a> for my 80 year old aunt and showed her how to use three apps on it. Netflix, Skype and email. The out of pocket cost was just over $50 including the case and a stand (so she could watch movies)</p>
<p>I positioned the icons for her so that they were the first things that were there when the device was turned on. That was Christmas 2015. I have yet to have a tech support call from her on how to use the device . However, she has called everyone including her grandson in Guam using Skype - she on the Kindle and he on an XBox.</p>
<p>Now, this was a woman who got a free laptop from another nephew but the laptop ended up collecting dust because the moment something had to be updated or it generated an error, they had no idea what to do. Sometimes, the simplest solution is the best solution.</p>
<p>I regularly get emails and Skype calls from her, but none have been to resolve a tech issue. That $50 was well worth the price.</p>
|
2377
|
2016-03-26T17:07:53.687
|
|laptop|linux|
|
<p>I am trying to setup a laptop for my grandparents for video calls, who certainly don't know how to use most technologies.</p>
<p>My plan is to setup a video chat app on boot and use a reliable command-line interface (CLI) to pre-select numbers for them. There will be only two numbers/addresses, mine and my brother's. I have been looking for video chat app that provides an official, long-term-supported CLI on Linux. Google Hangouts and Skype both have third-party CLI, which may not be up-to-date with the official releases in the future. If my grandparents accidentally update the app, the whole setup may break.</p>
<p>The choice of laptop is also crucial. The most important feature here is durability, because the laptop may be dropped to ground accidentally, or a cup of water may go directly onto the keyboard. CPU is not an issue as long as it is enough to power Linux kernel and the app, because video-call is IO-bound I believe. Hard-disk size doesn't matter, and 4GB of RAM is good enough.</p>
<p>I'd love to let my grandparents skip the steps of starting apps, logging in, selecting video calls, push numbers/addresses etc. For that I will need to setup a bash or other scripts to do these with CLI on boot. That is also why I want to install Linux on the laptop (mainly because I am not familiar with Windows' shells...)</p>
<p>I have been looking at rugged notebooks like Toughbook, as well as Lenovo Thinkpad. Do you guys know about anything more suitable for my grandparents?</p>
|
Durable laptop and CLI-supported video chat for grandparents on Linux
|
<p>You might want to investigate the Thinkpad from Lenovo as well. W550, P50, P70... They are all high end machines and they have various options so that you can tailor the machine to your needs.</p>
<p>But the "killer" feature - for me - was the docking station (purchased separately) that gives the ability to move the laptop around while still having a "proper" screen, keyboard and mouse when you are sitting in your home office. The best of both worlds.
While you didn't mention "docks", maybe this could fit all of your keyboard requirements if 90% of your work is done on a desk and not "on the go" (you can then purchase any keyboard and plug it to the dock, which is what I did with mine).</p>
<p>Support is great as well and professional (at least here in the UK) - and when I purchased mine, I got the extended warranty which was very cheap.</p>
<p>Also, the Lenovo laptops are fairly easy to open and there are lots of manuals in case you want/need to replace the components by yourself.</p>
<p>The bill can add up quite quickly at purchase if you go for the best machine, though.</p>
|
2391
|
2016-03-28T13:09:57.293
|
|laptop|development|
|
<p>I'm looking to replace my existing development laptop (java, .net, android apps, etc). I usually run a number of virtuals (some windows and some linux) so at least 32GB RAM is a must. Here is what I am looking for in general:</p>
<ul>
<li>32GB RAM (or more)</li>
<li>i7 processor</li>
<li>17" screen ( or larger )</li>
<li>keyboard should have 10-key number pad and have great tactile feedback (not like my kids' cheap laptops that I can barely type on)</li>
<li>Linux as the host OS (it can come with Windows as long as I can upgrade to Linux and all the components are compatible)</li>
</ul>
<p>What I don't really care about:</p>
<ul>
<li>weight (if it weighs 10 pounds or more, that's fine)</li>
<li>high-end graphics capabilities, although I will want to drive a couple or three monitors for all these virtuals, so maybe I need something decent. However, I won't be gaming with it.</li>
<li>touch screen</li>
</ul>
<p>Budget $2500-$3000</p>
<p>Does such an animal exist?</p>
|
High-end developer laptop
|
<p>Plugable UD-3900 USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station is working great for me.</p>
<p>This dock has drivers available to recognize it under both Windows 10, and Mac OS.</p>
<p>The dock connects via USB 3.0 cable and is preferable in my situation since both of the computers I am using lack the latest USB C ports.</p>
<p>I got it around US $125.00 that was also well within my budget.</p>
|
2396
|
2016-03-28T18:00:23.083
|
|docking-stations|
|
<p>Is there a docking station that is compatible with both 13" MacBook Pro (2015 model A1502) and a Surface Pro 3?</p>
<p>I am looking for one that has<br>
1. Connectivity up to two monitors (DVI/HDMI/VGA)<br>
2. Ethernet adapter<br>
3. 1 USB Port<br>
4. Portable </p>
|
Docking Station for Surface Pro 3 and 13" MacBook Pro
|
<p>You should not go with a card with more than 200W TDP as you have only a 550W power supply. It might work, it might not.</p>
<p>600 EUR is way too high of a budget for just a new graphics card. If you want an equivalent graphics card to the 6850, you could go for a GTX 960. It's faster than the 6850 in fact, and consumes similar amount of power(120W for the 960, 127 for the 6850).
Ultra-high end cards like the 980 and 980Ti will be overkill for you, since your PC is old, and they're pretty fast, over 4 times as fast(or even faster) for the 980Ti. The 980Ti also consumes a lot of power, 250W.</p>
<p>If you want to go for a bit of futureproofing, go with a 970 or an upcoming Pascal card. The 970 is an awesome card at $330 with a power consumption of 145W. Pascal cards are new ones coming with an architecture change, meaning they'll be significantly faster for the same amount of money. But you'll have to wait two months for them.</p>
|
2398
|
2016-03-28T19:05:14.533
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>At the moment I am using this computer: </p>
<pre><code>Motherboard Name: Asus P8P67 (3xPCI, 2xPCI-E x1, 2xPCI-E x16, 4xDDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
Motherboard Chipset: Intel Cougar Point P67, Intel Sandy Bridge
CPU: Quad-core Intel Core i7-2600K, 4400 MHz (43 x 102)
RAM: 16GB (4x4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM)
DIMM1: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)
DIMM2: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)
DIMM3: G Skill ECO F3-12800CL8-4GBECO -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (9-9-9-28 @ 800 MHz) (8-8-8-25 @ 711 MHz) (7-7-7-22 @ 622 MHz)
DIMM4: G Skill Ares F3-1600C9-4GAB -- 4GB DDR3-1600 SDRAM (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz) (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)
Graphics card: AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series
3D-Accelerator: AMD Radeon HD 6850 (Barts)
Power supply: be quiet - Dark Power Pro (80 Plus Gold) - Model: BQT P9-550W
case: AeroCool RS-9 Professional
</code></pre>
<p>Unfortunately, I'm extremely bad at hardware. The graphics card is now broken and I need a new one with the following requirements: </p>
<ol>
<li>Hopefully better than the old one, but at least the same performance</li>
<li>A GeForce</li>
<li>One that supports GPU rendering (the old one does not, at least Adobe Premiere is telling me)</li>
<li>And of course one that fits in the system</li>
</ol>
<p>Do you know a graphics card with these specifications?<br>
I thought that I can get such a graphics card with a maximum of 600€. However, I am also willing to go a little higher if this is necessary, but I don't think so, based on amazon and co. </p>
<p><strong>UPDATE</strong><br>
at the moment there are only two graphic cards mentioned in this thread:<br>
GTX 980 and GTX 980 TI.<br>
the first is relatively old and the second is not (yet) supported by adobe. Is this support guaranteed in the future? or does somebody has an other GPU idea? maybe with a similar performance?</p>
|
Equivalent graphics card
|
<p>I am assuming that you want to connect the Intel Compute Stick to something that you can view the output of the device, correct?</p>
<p>First off, you cannot connect it into the HDMI port of your MacBook Pro. That's output only. That's like trying to connect the HDMI out port on a DVD player to the HDMI port on a game console - it's not going to work.</p>
<p>What you need is a monitor with an HDMI port as an input. Any monitor with an HDMI port will work.</p>
<p>If you want to capture the video, you need a video capture device. The <a href="https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming" rel="nofollow">Elgato Gaming Video Capture</a> products have been really good.</p>
|
2406
|
2016-03-29T20:20:53.543
|
|hdmi|thunderbolt|osx|micro-pc|video-adapters|
|
<p>I have Intel Compute Stick which has HDMI male connector as output which I would like to connect to Macbook Pro which has HDMI port (female), USB and ThunderBolt Mini DisplayPort. My goal is to see the screen of the device on my laptop screen.</p>
<p>I've tried to connect the device to MBP HDMI port, but it doesn't work, so I assume I need to purchase some converter.</p>
<p>What I need to have in order to capture display output from the stick device?</p>
<p>Would ThunderBolt to HDMI adapter cable would work in that case, or some kind of <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/631/15">virtual webcam</a> or anything else? I've no budget limits (just reasonable price to quality). </p>
|
Adapter to connect Intel Compute Stick to Mac to see the output
|
<p>You can find HDD's under $20 on newegg.com :</p>
<ul>
<li>80 GB - WD800JD - <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5AD3S65663" rel="nofollow">$9.99 on newegg.com</a></li>
<li>WL 160GB - <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5AD3KE4385" rel="nofollow">$14.99 on newegg.com</a></li>
</ul>
|
2410
|
2016-03-29T23:12:54.477
|
|desktop|server|hard-disk|
|
<p>I am looking for a small drive of some sort for a private server hosted using a desktop computer. The server will be used as a private proxy. I only need around 25-50 GB, but everything I find is 500+ GB Hard Drives. Is there a fast and small internal drive, maybe flash memory? It would be best to spend less than $20.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236811&ignorebbr=1" rel="nofollow">This</a> is the smallest drive I could find on Newegg, but it is still way too large and it 3 times the price I am looking for.</p>
|
Small and inexpensive drive?
|
<p>I did some digging around and in the end I got a <a href="http://media.lexmark.com/www/doc/en_US/Lexmark-CX310.pdf" rel="nofollow">Lexmark CX 310</a>. The only thing it falls down on is the duplex scanning automatically, however the interface allows for it.</p>
<p>Having used it for a while now its a good little printer and fits nicely to my needs.</p>
|
2421
|
2016-03-30T20:12:51.360
|
|linux|printer|
|
<p>I am in the market for a colour laser multifunction printer. I have the following requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ethernet networking (RJ-45) </li>
<li>Duplex printing and scanning </li>
<li>Document feeder for scanning </li>
<li>Scanning and printing should be able to be initiated over network. </li>
<li>Good Linux compatibility</li>
</ul>
<p>In terms of budget I would be looking ideally at less than £300. I would consider a recommendation for a unit that would be a good fit that is available secondhand.</p>
|
Colour Laser MFP
|
<p>If a good USB Hub with more than 4 ports is what you are looking for then you should check out Anker USB Hubs like this one</p>
<p><a href="https://www.anker.com/products/A7513141" rel="noreferrer">https://www.anker.com/products/A7513141</a></p>
<p>It's a 7 port Aluminum hub, USB 3.0, with a 5V 3.0A power adapter. </p>
<p>As for reviews....</p>
<p><strong>Their site:</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1s2kh.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1s2kh.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><strong>From Amazon:</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2a2l.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2a2l.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>They make hubs that go from 4 ports to 14 ports so there is a lot of choice. <strong>What what I really like about their products is that they stand behind them.</strong> I had an issue with a 2 port hub over a year after I bought it and they refunded my full purchase price. Their customer service has been fantastic that I can recommend them and their products without hesitation.</p>
|
2429
|
2016-03-31T15:51:14.600
|
|laptop|usb|power-supply|hub|
|
<p>Sounds easy, right?</p>
<p><strong>NOPE!</strong></p>
<p>In an attempt to do away with this dreaded message:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HmyFr.png"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HmyFr.png" alt="USB low power notice from Mac OS"></a></p>
<p>I am looking for a USB hub for my Macbook Pro that meets the following requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Externally powered on <em>all</em> ports (the hub has its own power jack)</li>
<li>USB3 support at full speed</li>
<li>More than 4 ports</li>
<li>Good reviews (>= 4 stars)</li>
</ul>
<p>I am specifically <em>not</em> looking for, and am not interested in:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>"Charging" hubs meaning:</p>
<ul>
<li>Hubs that only supply power on a subset of the available ports, </li>
<li>Or hubs that only supply power without connection to the PC</li>
</ul></li>
<li><p>"House brand" hubs such as AmazonBasics, Gigatech, etc. Too many bad experiences there.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Price is no object.</p>
|
Powered USB3 hub
|
<p>A bit late to the party on this one, but I can tell you to avoid (at least for now) the Dell docks that may have been recommended to you at the time of your XPS-13 purchase. I tried both docks on two separate XPS-13s, and neither dock worked correctly. The Dell forums are filled with customers angry with the failings of the TB-15 dock, and it's not even offered for sale on their website any longer. However, it is still available on Amazon with no mention of the hardware difficulties, so beware.</p>
<p>I tried the Cable Matters adapter that Allan suggested above, and unfortunately the one I ordered from Amazon arrived DOA.</p>
<p>The one adapter that I did find very useful for me is (Sad to say) Dell's own <a href="http://accessories.ap.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=sg&l=en&s=bsd&cs=sgbsd1&sku=470-abnl" rel="nofollow">DA200 adapter</a>. It plugs into that USB-C port and gives you an ethernet port, USB3.0, VGA and HDMI ports. Pretty handy and works flawlessly for me every time.</p>
<p>I've also heard some people had great success with the <a href="http://www.hootoo.com/ht-uc001-usb-type-c-hub-charging-hdmi-apple-pd.html" rel="nofollow">HooToo Shuttle</a>. There are various versions of the Shuttle, one of which has another USB-C port that could be used for charging too. That sounds great, except I really need DisplayPort support. </p>
<p>Overall, I've had this laptop for about three months now and I still can't find an adapter that does exactly what I'm looking for. Hope you do better, and if you do, share it with us!</p>
|
2440
|
2016-04-01T20:30:13.337
|
|usb|video-adapters|
|
<p>I recently got the new Dell XPS 13 9350. This model features the new USB Type-C; it has no other native port for connecting a display (HDMI, mini DisplayPort, etc..).</p>
<p>I've done my research and there are some adapters available, but the ones I have found are either ridiculously expensive, or have horrible reviews. Several on Amazon from companies I've never even heard of with reviews from people that were given the products for free, which I frankly don't trust at all.</p>
<p>Has anybody had any luck with a good adapter for USB Type-C laptops? I am primarily wanting it to connect to an external NEC 24 inch monitor. It has Display Port and HDMI connections available. </p>
<p>I've found a few like <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01BSJVY7Y" rel="nofollow">this</a> that have multiple connections in one device, which seems like it would be really convenient. Dell also makes their <a href="http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=&cs=19&sku=470-ABQN&ST=pla&dgc=ST&cid=297700&lid=5692341&acd=123098073120560&ven1=470-ABQN:51713436948:901pdb6671:c&ven2=:&ven3=812703242058028637" rel="nofollow">own</a> that even includes Ethernet, but it's $75! Some reviews I read talk about BIOS issues that may keep these from working at all (scary).</p>
<p>Is this to be expected since USB Type-C is still fairly new? I feel like there has to be a cheaper and better solution. </p>
|
USB Type-C adapters?
|
<p>What you have there is called <a href="http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/64801/msata" rel="nofollow">mSATA</a>. These are available from every SSD manufacturer but I am very partial to both Samsung and Crucial as I have used many of their products in the past without issue. I have provided links in order of preference:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00TGIVVKU" rel="nofollow">Samsung 850 EVO 500GB</a></li>
<li><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00RQA6GF0" rel="nofollow">Crucial MX200 500GB mSATA</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Both are priced right around the same price point and both have excellent warranties. </p>
<p><strong>Will it work in your computer?</strong></p>
<p>Hardware wise? Yes. SATA can address up to 8 EB (Exabytes) or 8 million TB. </p>
<p><strong>Will you OS read it?</strong> </p>
<p>Assuming you are using Windows or Linux and not something custom, then NTFS and EXT2/3/4 will address much more than 8EB. You should be good there as well.</p>
|
2441
|
2016-04-02T09:17:52.580
|
|ssd|
|
<p>I have no real knowledge about hardware. My ssd hase failed now and i need to look for another one and preferable a big one (total 250-500 gb). And what would be the price range for it?</p>
<p>This is what i have now: (it's stacked in raid so have 2 of them)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sqgex.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sqgex.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
SSD Failing what do i need to look for and what are my options?
|
<p>You have two <em>good</em> options here both being delivered by ASUS.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Your suggestion, the <strong><a href="https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/" rel="nofollow">Maximus VIII Hero</a></strong>. </p>
<ul>
<li>4x <strong>DDR4</strong> DIMMs Max <strong>64 GB</strong> Upto <strong>3800mhz</strong></li>
<li>1x <strong>M.2</strong></li>
<li>6x <strong>Sata 6</strong></li>
<li>2x <strong>Sata Express</strong></li>
<li>Ample USB</li>
</ul></li>
<li><p>At £40 cheaper, the <strong><a href="https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-RANGER/specifications/" rel="nofollow">Maximus VIII Ranger</a></strong>.</p>
<ul>
<li>4x <strong>DDR4</strong> DIMMs Max <strong>64 GB</strong> Upto <strong>3400mhz</strong></li>
<li>Same storage as the former.</li>
<li>Ample USB</li>
</ul></li>
</ol>
<p>It may be worth the extra £40 for you to go with the Ranger as it gives up nothing important and will leave you with money to spend elsewhere.</p>
|
2460
|
2016-04-04T18:08:07.583
|
|motherboard|desktop|
|
<p>I am will be overclocking my Intel i7 6700K to 4.6 GHz and I am looking for a solid motherboard to go with it. Currently, I am considering the Asus Maximus VIII Hero (<a href="https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/" rel="noreferrer">https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/</a>) as I know that the previous motherboard (Asus Maximus VII Hero) was very good and I have had a good experience with Asus so far. Could anyone recommend any other motherboards?</p>
<p><strong><em>Must:</em></strong></p>
<ul>
<li>M.2 support.</li>
<li>USB 3.1 support.</li>
<li>ATX form factor.</li>
<li>Under £200.</li>
</ul>
|
Motherboard For Overclocking An i7 6700K?
|
<p>The GTX 550Ti is a discontinued video card (and has been for a couple of years now) You would be paying a premium on ebay for a (probably) used card if you wanted to find a matching one. </p>
<p>In order to use SLi, you need to have matching graphics cards. Though the brand and clock speed may be different, they must have the same GPU (and both be Ti or non-Ti) as well as the same amount of video RAM. If you are not gaming or doing graphical rendering I wonder why you would want two cards anyways? You are able to use two (and on some models three) monitors with a single GTX 550Ti. </p>
<p>If you are looking for a new single video card of comparable power which can also support multiple monitors, I recommend the <a href="http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-750/specifications" rel="nofollow">GTX 750</a> which can be found for around USD$100, or the current <a href="http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-950/specifications" rel="nofollow">GTX 950</a> for about USD$140. The <a href="http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-660ti/specifications" rel="nofollow">GTX 660 Ti</a> is capable of supporting three monitors, but can be difficult to find because it has been discontinued. </p>
<p>Virtually any video card sold in stores today will support multiple monitors (at least two) and be capable of web content and bluray playback. Bear in mind that ATi video cards will need to use DisplayPort (or a powered adapter) in order to use three displays simultaneously. </p>
|
2466
|
2016-04-05T22:07:59.553
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I have a Nvidia GeForce GTX 550 Ti - I did have two but one expired.
looking for a similar replacement to run a single TV through HDMI, the current card runs two monitors. </p>
<p>Do I need to be looking at the same brand or spec?
Or will it work with anything? </p>
<p>I expect it to be showing webpages most of the time. I have it set up as an over head monitor that'll I'll be using to collect reference materials.</p>
<p>As I won't be using it for games I'd like to keep the price as low as possible.</p>
<p>My main concern is in order to achieve this I'll need to buy two new cards because I can't see this one for sale.</p>
<p>Rig:</p>
<ul>
<li>CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K</li>
<li>Operating System: Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional 64-bit</li>
<li>Motherboard: P8Z68-V LX</li>
<li>Memory:16.0GB Corsair 1600mhz Vengeance (4x 4GB)</li>
<li>Graphics card: 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 550 Ti 1GB</li>
<li>Sound card: Onboard 7.1 Audio</li>
<li>Case: Xigmatek Asgard (20 x 41 x 48 cm)</li>
<li>PSU: 700W Xigmatek</li>
</ul>
|
New Second Graphics Card
|
<p>In order to cover Windows, Android, Mac OS-X, and iOS, you'll need a two part solution.</p>
<p>As you've already discovered, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miracast" rel="nofollow">Miracast</a> is a wireless display standard. It is effectively HDMI-over-wireless. The Wi-Fi Alliance maintains <a href="http://www.wi-fi.org/product-finder-results?sort_by=default&sort_order=desc&categories=1&capabilities=2" rel="nofollow">a list of compatible products</a>. Note that it can be called different things by different vendors; Samsung calls it "AllShare Cast" for instance.</p>
<p>Windows 8.1 and Windows 10 support Miracast. It depends on hardware support in the GPU, which modern Intel CPUs have integrated. Just be aware that having the right OS does not <em>always</em> mean the computer has the right hardware. </p>
<p>The same goes for Android - 4.2 and up have the software capability, but it's only useful if the phone or tablet has the hardware capability.</p>
<p>On the other side...</p>
<p>Apple has excluded themselves by Apple's choice, forcing their customers to purchase an AppleTV box as well. On sufficiently recent Intel-based Macs, part of the hardware to use Miracast/Wi-Di is <em>theoretically</em> there in the CPU, but there's no way to access it.</p>
<p>In order to get the same capability for Apple devices, you'll need to include an AppleTV in your setup. The AppleTV is small, so you can probably find some way to fasten it to the same mount as the projector and just leave it up there. It has Wi-Fi, so you don't need to supply anything but power.</p>
<p><strong>In summary</strong>: Your projector will need Miracast-capability <em>and</em> an HDMI port for the Apple TV.</p>
|
2475
|
2016-04-06T11:13:16.843
|
|wireless|projector|
|
<p>I am hoping to install a projector in our office space to stream to from laptops/macbooks/tablets etc. However due to the layout, we can't easily run cables from connecting devices to the projector. </p>
<p>Are there any solutions to solve this issue? Wireless projectors seem to just be Miracast enabled and so will not support anything other than Windows 8.1+ and android 4.2+ devices. Are there any truly wireless projectors?</p>
<p>I don't have a real budget but under £1000 would be nice.</p>
|
Wireless HD projector >2000 Lumen
|
<p>In this price range you have a few options:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>From <strong>Nvidia</strong>: You really only have one option right now. <em>Note if your going for Nvidia I <strong>highly</strong> recommend waiting for the new Pascal based GPUs.</em></p>
<ul>
<li>The <strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-video-card-gvn960g1gaming4gd" rel="nofollow">GTX 960</a></strong>. <em>Although the link is to a Gigabyte card you are free to choose from any manufacturer</em>.</li>
</ul></li>
<li><p>From <strong>AMD</strong>: You have a few options but by far the best is the following:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-strixr9380dc2oc4g" rel="nofollow">R9 380</a></strong>. AMD's top card in this price range. I'm a sucker for the STRIX branding but you can use whichever you would like.</li>
</ul></li>
</ol>
<p><strong>In Conclusion</strong></p>
<p>So those two are the clear winners in each category, but out of the two I cannot pose a clear winner. If you would like to see a nice head to head I recommend checking out this one <a href="http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R9-380-vs-GeForce-GTX-960" rel="nofollow">here</a>.</p>
|
2481
|
2016-04-07T18:11:33.793
|
|graphics-cards|desktop|
|
<p>In $200 price range, should I be looking at cards from AMD or Nvidia?</p>
|
In the $200 price range, which GPU maker is better Nvidia or AMD?
|
<p>Dell Latitude, series 7490 is obtainable with 32GB RAM (I have one sitting on my table).
The keyboard layout is sadly far from ThinkPads (answer to all three points regarding the keyboard is a <em>"No"</em>). Looks decently.</p>
<p>Have you looked into Thinkpad <a href="https://geoff.greer.fm/2017/07/16/thinkpad-x62/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">X62</a> and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/notes/lcdfans/special-machine-t70-cpu-i7-7700hqwith-ips/1882070528726717/?qid=6433062313884965485&mf_story_key=3616766401621463574" rel="nofollow noreferrer">T70</a>?</p>
|
2491
|
2016-04-10T10:10:35.310
|
|laptop|development|
|
<p>As developer (.NET), I require fast and reliable hardware. I do not care about thickness nor weight (I use such wonderful invention called table to hold my notebook while working!), what I value most is ergonomics (which is something computer manufacturers are getting rid of recent years).</p>
<p>I spent a lot of time investigating but I'm not really happy (also couldn't find any satisfying answer here). I'm summing up what I'm looking for and what I already found. Thanks for any input, consideration, hint or comment.</p>
<p><strong>What I'm trying to find</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>~14" notebook (width: ~340mm/13.4in, depth: ~233mm/9.2in ... yes, this is size of T420s)</li>
<li>preferably matte display (non-glossy, anti-glare)</li>
<li>possibility to upgrade RAM to 32GB - implies DDR4 RAM (and why so much?... I plan to use this machine for another couple of years + virtualization and other stuff running in parallel)</li>
<li>i7 CPU, dual or quad core, ~3GHz</li>
<li>good keyboard layout
<ul>
<li>no PgUp/PgDn close to arrows</li>
<li>no Fn key required for Function keys or PgUp/PgDn/Delete/Insert/Home/End/Backspace</li>
<li>Function keys grouped by 4 as on classic keyboard</li>
</ul></li>
<li>decent (business?) look (very subjective, but let's use ThinkPad as reference again - nothing too fancy)</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm not having any strict price criteria, it "just depends".</p>
<p><strong>What I already considered</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>ThinkPad T460s</strong>: crippled keyboard (PrtSc key position, PgUp/PgDn position) (as it has mostly same layout as any other machine on market, can't even say it's a mess... but it is, Lenovo!)</li>
<li><strong>Microsoft Surface Book</strong>: up to 16GB RAM, arrow key size, eject button between insert and delete, display is shaking when typing (watch some reviews), glossy (but 3:2!) screen</li>
<li><strong>Dell XPS 13</strong>: too tiny (12" footprint), just DDR3, no track point, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen</li>
<li><strong>Dell XPS 15</strong>: too big, no trackpoint, glossy screen</li>
<li><strong>Dell Latitude, series 7000 (14")</strong>: up to 16GB RAM</li>
<li><strong>Asus ZenBook</strong>: too small, Fn to "Insert" key, PgUp/PgDn keyboard position (didn't check other HW specs)</li>
<li><strong>Toshiba Portege Z30</strong>: ... it's Toshiba, weird position of PgUp/PgDn keys, but slightly better than other models (didn't check other HW specs)</li>
<li><strong>Apple MacBook 13"</strong>: Fn (Cmd?) key for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End/Backspace, no trackpoint, up to 16GB RAM, glossy screen (+ is it good for running Windows in regards of ergonomics?)</li>
<li><strong>Vaio Z (flip)</strong>: 16GB RAM, no track point, glossy screen</li>
<li>...</li>
<li><strong>ThinkPad T420s - renewed</strong>: 16GB (DDR3) RAM (but also way much cheaper than anything else in this list)</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>TLDR: Wouldn't it be great if we could put today's hardware into T420s body?!</p>
<p>PS: If someone from Dell reads this, please fix up your catalogue on your web and/or product lines!</p>
<p>PS2: Nothing is going on with ThinkPad "retro" as stated: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lqAa_eD84A" rel="nofollow">David Hill interview, CES2016</a> (== I heard only corporate excuses why not to do it, correct me if I'm wrong)</p>
|
14" Notebook, 32GB RAM (DDR4), trackpoint and matte display
|
<p>If you plan to work with Nvidia's CUDA framework right away to do some GPU-based computations (neural networks primarily), you should stick with GeForce 750M laptop.</p>
<p>However, 750M's memory is only 2 GB (as the R370X is), so you will not be able to fit any big model into your GPU either way and will be forced to use either cloud instances or buy a separate GPU and somehow connect it to your Mac so the choice is really not too much relevant.</p>
<p>If you don't have any immediate plans to dive into CUDA-based computations, buy either the cheapest option (750M Macs are previous generation, so you will buy them refurbished or used and that may save some money), or the newest (which is R370X) since it will be brand new and you will enjoy warranty period at its fullest.</p>
<p>Also, Apple did release the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_%28API%29" rel="nofollow">Metal</a> framework for native shader programming in OS X, which allows to use literally any supported GPU from OS X to program your computations, and there are some frameworks that use that possibility (<a href="https://memkite.com" rel="nofollow">Memkite</a> for example) - that will give you deep learning and computer vision on <strong>any</strong> mentioned GPU (and even on built-in Iris Pro which is built into the CPU). But the support of Metal is in its early stage, so there are not too many frameworks and projects using it for machine learning (though, you could pioneer in that).</p>
|
2515
|
2016-04-13T07:55:31.767
|
|laptop|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I intend to buy a <strong>15.4-inch MacBook Pro 2.5 GHz Quad-core Intel i7 with Retina Display</strong>. The latest edition offers <strong>AMD Radeon R9 M370X</strong>, while the previous one has a <strong>Nvidia GeForce GT 750M</strong>.</p>
<p>I will primarily be using computer vision and deep learning algorithms. So, there is heavy possibility of using <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CUDA" rel="nofollow">CUDA</a> too.</p>
<p>Which one should I opt for?</p>
|
Which Mac should I buy? One with the Nvidia GeForce GT 750M or the latest one with AMD Radeon R9 M370X?
|
<p>I chose the combination of LD MEI 1000 and Shure SE215CL.
The Shure device had no relevant features which would justify the price and the better headphones were a really good investment.</p>
<p>Tested and evaluated as good.</p>
|
2532
|
2016-04-15T13:47:00.793
|
|audio|earphones|
|
<p>I am looking for an in ear monitoring system for the stage.
I don't have the money for the high end products, but I want at least decent quality. My limit is 500€.</p>
<p>I am a singer and prospective guitar player in my band, and on stage I want to have an in ear monitoring system.
I chose two systems:</p>
<p>LD Systems MEI 1000 G2 + Shure SE215CL</p>
<p>or</p>
<p>Shure PSM-200 with Shure SE112 Headhphones</p>
<p>Both seem to fulfill my requirements, which are:</p>
<ul>
<li>wireless </li>
<li>two inputs, one for my microphone and one for future requirements</li>
<li>decent headphones (?)</li>
<li>correct frequencies (I live in germany) </li>
</ul>
<p>I am not really sure which combination to use. The LD Systems solution is cheaper, so I would be able to use better headphones. In the solution from Shure it is in summary more expensive but I have only the SE112 Headphones, because they are contained as a set.</p>
<p>The things that matter to me are</p>
<ul>
<li>interference free transmission and no/ low latency monitoring</li>
<li>good isolation of the headphones and enough volume (metal band... pretty loud sometimes...)</li>
<li>decent sound quality (I don't mind some static noise, but I should be able to recognize what I hear)</li>
<li>durability of equipment</li>
</ul>
<p>So, what would you recommend?</p>
|
Wireless In Ear Monitoring System
|
<p>It not only depends on your CPU. Games differ by CPU utilisation some are more CPU dependent (for example Arma III) some are more GPU dependent (for example Far Cry 4, Witcher 3).</p>
<hr>
<p>To avoid CPU bottlenecking in all games I would recommend you:</p>
<ul>
<li>GTX960 - from NVidia</li>
<li>R9 380 - from AMD</li>
</ul>
<p>If you compare versions with the same amount of VRAM the results are comparable. I would personally recommend version with 4 GB VRAM because new games use more and more VRAM.</p>
<hr>
<p>To avoid CPU bottlenecking in GPU dependent games I would recommend you:</p>
<ul>
<li>GTX970 - from NVidia</li>
<li>R9 390 - from AMD</li>
</ul>
<p>The second option is in my opinion maximum for your overclocked Athlon. I would recommend not to go higher than GTX970 or R390 with your CPU. From this duo I would recommend GTX970 if you want to play only in FHD and R9 390 if you want play in higher resolution.</p>
<hr>
<p>Edit: What case do you use with your ITX motherboard ? How long GPU will fit to your case ? It can be important if your case is not aired enough you should look for card with lowest TDP.</p>
|
2535
|
2016-04-16T21:24:53.290
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>Here's the setup: </p>
<ul>
<li>AMD Athlon 750k (4*3.4GHz, however I can probably bump it up to 4GHz)</li>
<li>AsRock FM2A75M-ITX</li>
<li>2*4GB Team Elite 1333MHZ DDR3</li>
</ul>
<p>For what graphics card should I get for casual gaming? This CPU scores ~2100 single-core and ~5700 multi-core on <code>geekbench</code>.</p>
<p><code>R9 280</code> seems good. <code>GTX 970</code> would be perfect, though I'm a bit concerned it would be bottlenecked by this <code>AMD CPU</code>. Any other interesting options? </p>
<hr>
<p>UPD: currently I'm gaming on retina macbook on 1080p. It's GPU scores 1300 on <a href="http://www.videocardbenchmark.net" rel="nofollow">http://www.videocardbenchmark.net</a>; sometimes FPS it just too bad.</p>
<hr>
<p>UPD2: when investigating this question couple of days ago I've seen these places where people suggest <code>r9 280 / 290</code> is a good match. I'd just like to hear couple more opinions though. </p>
<p><a href="http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2553053/gpu-overclocked-amd-athlon-750k.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2553053/gpu-overclocked-amd-athlon-750k.html</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/35e1mg/best_logical_gpu_upgrade_for_pc_with_amd_athlon/" rel="nofollow">https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/35e1mg/best_logical_gpu_upgrade_for_pc_with_amd_athlon/</a></p>
|
Graphics Card recommendation for the setup
|
<h2>None.</h2>
<p>At this moment there is no phone or tablet which supports UHS-II. Of course you can put UHS-II card in normal slot because it's backward compatible but there is many opinions that this cards are working worse than UHS-I cards when they are in UHS-I slots.</p>
|
2556
|
2016-04-21T09:23:06.247
|
|smartphones|tablet|microsd|sd-card|
|
<p>UHS-II(with 8 extra pins) supports much more speed than regular UHS-I microsd card, so I am going to buy a UHS-II microsd from (probably) Sandisk/Lexar. But I did not find any list of UHS-II supported phone/tablets. </p>
<p>So I want to know which smartphones/tablets support UHS-II.</p>
|
Suggest me phones with UHS-II support?
|
<p>I found something! After looking for a few months, I came across <a href="http://www.aten.com/us/en/products/kvm/desktop-kvm-switches/cs782dp/#.WBOTiOErJE4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this press release</a> for the Aten 2-Port USB DisplayPort KVM Switch that specifically mentions support for displayport resolutions up to 4096x2160 @60Hz.</p>
<p>I found it for sale on newegg and Amazon, and it looks like it's been out for while, but both sites only listed support for UHD resolution (3840x2160). I got it, plugged it in, and it worked great! Full resolution and refresh rate on both my computers.</p>
|
2575
|
2016-04-24T15:54:11.967
|
|monitors|kvm|display-port|
|
<p>I just got a new LG 31MU97-B that I'd like to hook up to my PC and Mac, but I can't find a [mini-/]displayport KVM switch that supports full Cinema 4k (4096x2160) at 60Hz, only UHD (3840x2160).</p>
<p>I'm hoping there's something that my Google searches have missed, or someone else has had luck with a UHD-spec'd KVM still outputting Cinema 4k by sheer luck.
Thanks for your help!</p>
|
KVM switch for Cinema 4k?
|
<p>Just use an older flagship phone with 128gb or 256gb rom. install termux, ubuntu core and plone (cms). this config has been functional for me for four years now.</p>
<p>i call this stack docudroid... set up time can take two hours because of python libraries.</p>
<p>Powertool for professors who wish to use (pre-downloaded) videos in classroom without relying on mobile data (for bandwidth challenged environments).</p>
|
2580
|
2016-04-24T19:26:12.323
|
|wifi|web-server|access-point|
|
<h2>Functional Requirements</h2>
<p>I need a reasonably portable device that would allow people to use their laptops to connect via WiFi and navigate to a domain name I would tell them. The domain name would serve a web page that would have links to files for download that would be hosted <strong>on and served from</strong> the device.</p>
<h2>Use-Case Requirements</h2>
<p>My use-case is for making 1 hour presentations I would like to run like a mini-workshop so <strong>I expect to have ~25 people connected and downloading, all at the time same time</strong>.</p>
<h3>What is the Specific Use-Case?</h3>
<p>Basically I want give a presentation to people about how to set up an open-source local development environment for WordPress and so I need <strong>people to be able to download the required files</strong> to their computer <strong>at the start of the presentation.</strong></p>
<h3>Why These Requirements?</h3>
<p><strong>WiFi Internet tends to be slow and/or unreliable</strong> at the locations where I will be giving these presentations, and my goal is to get as many people to actually start using this local development environment I built as I possibly can so I want to ensure successful setup for as many people as possible.</p>
<h2>Assumed Technical Requirements</h2>
<p>Obviously the device will need to be a <strong>WiFi access point</strong>, it would need provide a <strong>web server</strong>, <strong>DNS server</strong> and <strong>DHCP server</strong> and the domain name such as <code>downloads.lan</code> would only be visible to them when they are connected to the device.</p>
<h2>Non-Requirements</h2>
<p>The device does <strong>NOT need an upstream connection to the Internet</strong>. All it really needs to do is give them a special purchase WiFi access point to connect to, download files and then disconnect.</p>
<h3>But Nice-to-Have</h3>
<p>However a nice-to-have would be to have the device connect to an upstream Internet connection using DHCP -- in the case such a connection is available -- then proxy the traffic to the Internet <em>(except traffic to <code>downloads.lan</code>)</em>, assuming the device could handle lots of connections. But again, that would just be a nice-to-have, not a requirement.</p>
<h2>"Failed" Attempts Thus Far</h2>
<p>So I have tried several things thus far that either did not work or that were far from optimal.</p>
<h3>LibraryBox on TP-Link MR3040</h3>
<p>My first attempt at this was to buy a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0088PPFP4" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TP-Link MR3040</a> and install <a href="http://librarybox.us/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LibraryBox</a> software on it. Unfortunately, it took over 10 minutes to download the necessary files with only 1 computer connected; far too long. So the device <strong>needs to be fast; i.e. have lots of bandwidth.</strong></p>
<h3>Apple Time Capsule</h3>
<p>I then looked at an <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002TLTGGM" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">older Apple Time Capsule</a> I have. But it does not support a web server so it would be more technical to access, and it is on the very heavy end of portable. This may be my fall-back, but I am hoping I can find something better.</p>
<h3>Ubuntu + Hostapd + Lenovo IdeaCenter Q180</h3>
<p>I then tried to set up an old <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B006THJIXI" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo IdeaCenter Q180</a> I had laying around by installing <a href="http://releases.ubuntu.com/16.04/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ubuntu 16.04 LTS</a> and Hostapd, but I had a nightmare trying to get everything configured correctly all at once.</p>
<p>I started with Ubuntu Server but could not get it to connect to my WiFi -- which is necessary to download and install software -- so I switched to Ubuntu Desktop which has a GUI and thus I could get WiFi connected, but <strong>I could still not figure out how to get Hostapd to work</strong>. Evidently it needs to control the WiFi and yet Ubunutu Desktop does not want to let go of the WiFi.</p>
<p>I feel certain this would work if I could just figure out how to configure everything. I expect maybe I need to buy another WiFi adapter for Hostapd to use like maybe the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002SZEOLG" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TP-LINK TL-WN722N</a> but I don't want to go down another dead-end and I am not much more than a beginner as Linux and I may not be able to figure it out on my own.</p>
<h2>Summary</h2>
<p>At this point I am <strong>happy to spend money to solve the problem</strong>. I am happy to buy a different device if you can point me to something that will work. <em>(I'd even hire someone to build it if the fee was modest!)</em> I just want <strong><em>something</em></strong> that will work and meet my requirements, and not take 20 hours of my time to get working.</p>
<p><strong>Any suggestions?</strong></p>
|
Portable WiFi Access Point with HTTP Server for File Downloads
|
<p>If you are looking for the routers with the best 5 GHz Wi-Fi performance I would recommend you this product:</p>
<p>Best choice to $200:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT1900ACS/" rel="nofollow">Linksys WRT1900ACS</a> - <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124605" rel="nofollow">$200 on newegg.com</a></li>
</ul>
<p>This router is really good when we are talking about Wi-Fi speed and stability. It's best choice in AC1900 routers in my opinion and best choice for you.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.cnet.com/products/asus-rt-ac88u-router/2/" rel="nofollow">CNET</a> test of this routers Wi-Fi performance (short distance - 15 feet / long distance - 100 feet): 5 GHz</p>
<p><strong>5 GHz</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>WRT1900ACS - <strong>536/349 Mbps</strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>2.4 GHz</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>WRT1900ACS - <strong>170/59 Mbps</strong></li>
</ul>
|
2592
|
2016-04-26T18:33:59.533
|
|router|
|
<p>Im looking for recommendations for which router to buy for my new gigabit connection at home. </p>
<p>I have:</p>
<ul>
<li>a 1000mbit/1000mbit connection</li>
<li>a small apartment with no thick walls</li>
<li>maximum three devices connected at the same time (ps4, laptop, stationary computer, phone)</li>
</ul>
<p>I want:</p>
<ul>
<li>wifi performance benchmarked with (very) good results (will mostly be used on 5ghz band and I want to be able to utilize as much of the potential speed as possible)</li>
<li>good ethernet speed (will be connected to the stationary computer)</li>
<li>preferably not overly expensive (300$)</li>
</ul>
|
Router for gigabit connection
|
<p>I am going to recommend the <a href="http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hxi-series-hx850i-high-performance-atx-power-supply-850-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-psu" rel="nofollow">Corsair HXi HX850i CP-9020073-NA 850W</a>. This is a fully modular 850 Watt power supply that is 80 PLUS Platinum certified. It has a built in fan, but it doesn't even turn on until the load reaches around 350 Watts.</p>
<p>This unit comes with a handful of unique features, like the fan test button. With this, you can test the operation of the fan even before installing the PSU into your case. The unit also has a mini USB port that you can either plug directly into the motherboard (included cable) or into a USB port on the back of the computer. With this, you can monitor performance and adjustment of fan speed and multi-rail/single rail mode. I do not remember seeing a driver disk in the box, but it is easily downloadable by following this <a href="http://www.corsair.com/en-us/support/downloads" rel="nofollow">link</a>, selecting "Corsair Link", and selecting the most recent file at the top. </p>
<p>Corsair lists the 850 Watt unit at $199.99 (USD) not on sale, but if you shop around, you can find a lower price. </p>
<p>Corsair also has a 1000 and 1200 Watt version of the same PSU, so if you want a bit more breathing room, you have options. </p>
|
2600
|
2016-04-27T20:57:15.650
|
|gaming|graphics-cards|power-supply|
|
<p>I'm thinking of adding a second Sapphire R9 390 to my computer to run in 2x crossfire.</p>
<p>Here are the parts I'm using:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>CPU: Intel i5-6600k</p></li>
<li><p>MB: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151</p></li>
<li><p>RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-2133</p></li>
<li><p>Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB SSD and Seagate Barracuda 2TB
3.5" 7200RPM</p></li>
<li>Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower</li>
<li><strong>GPU: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro</strong> </li>
<li><strong>PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 650W 80+ Gold</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>The power requirements of such an upgrade would technically be covered by my current PSU, but only by a very small margin.
Also, my PSU only provides enough cables for a single GPU.</p>
<p>The theoretical power draw is around 750W so I'm looking for something in the waters of 800-900W
Fully modular and silent operation on idle are both big pluses.</p>
<p>High reliability is a must!</p>
<p><strong>What would be a good model to solve this problem?</strong></p>
|
Power supply upgrade for gaming computer
|
<p>Sony w807C</p>
<p>Price: can only speak from where I live, but it seems from your comment that it is alittle over budget.</p>
<p>Screen size: 43, 50, 55</p>
<p>Resolution: full hd</p>
<p>wifi: yes</p>
<p>SmartTv: Yes, android, nuff said?</p>
<p>Refresh rate: 100Hz with 800Hz motionflow</p>
<p>Response time: 10-15 ms (Do not have any source on this, but this is stated from Sony who visited our store.)</p>
<p>VESA mount: Yes</p>
<p>3D: yes, active, no glasses included. </p>
<p>I would not recommend 4k, because 4k is useless without HDR, and there is no HDR standard today, which means that if the state a standard, and you television do not support the standard, again it will be useless. So even I you buy a 4k tv with HDR you might not be able get the full experience with 4k.</p>
<p>From what I have learned Sony has the best response time 10-15 ms on their flagships, LG around 30 ms and Samsung 45-50 ms. Please see if you can find a source on this. The Sony w807c has Sonys "finest" display, the Triluminos display. This means that it will show a good picture when viewing from the angels, please see link provided. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.quora.com/What-is-Sonys-Triluminos-technology" rel="nofollow">https://www.quora.com/What-is-Sonys-Triluminos-technology</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>DLNA server which is Mezzmo</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I am unsure of this, but it runs android smart tv so if anyone should support it, I would be android. </p>
<p>Since it is android smart tv you can use the ps4 control to play games from google play, and aswell control the tv with it. </p>
<p>THe tv has a built in google cast, which means that you can cast you smartphone directly to the tv.</p>
|
2603
|
2016-04-28T08:10:39.773
|
|gaming|hdtv|
|
<p>I'm looking for the best TV (in this price) which I will use for playing on PlayStation 4 and watching movies.</p>
<p><strong>Most important features:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Price: <strong>~$800</strong></li>
<li>Screen size: <strong>~50"</strong></li>
<li>Resolution: <strong>FHD</strong> (4K to expensive ?)</li>
<li><strong>Wi-Fi</strong></li>
<li>SmartTV: <strong>Yes</strong> (it can be any WebOS, Android, etc. but it has to run my DLNA server which is Mezzmo)</li>
<li>Refresh rate: <strong>good for gaming and movies</strong> (120 Hz should be enough ?)</li>
<li>Input lag: <strong>good for gaming and movies</strong> (40-50 ms will it be ok ?)</li>
<li>VESA mount: <strong>Yes</strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Additional data:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Room size: <strong>25 square meters</strong></li>
<li>Distance from TV: <strong>2.5 meters</strong></li>
<li>Room light: <strong>really sunny room</strong></li>
<li>Watching direction: <strong>mostly from the front</strong>, occasionally 45 degrees when I will invite guests</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Not important:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>3D</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>My ideas:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/product/KDL-50W755C">Sony KDL-50W755C</a> - <a href="http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/content/cnt-specs/KDL-50W755C/list">specification</a> - ~$780 (in my country)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.lg.com/uk/tvs/lg-50LF652V">LG-50LF652V</a> - $660 (in my country)</li>
<li><a href="http://icecat.us/us/p/philips/50pfh6550-88/led-tvs-8718863002049-50PFH6550-27120931.html">Philips 50PFH6550/88</a> - $780 (in my country)</li>
</ul>
|
TV 50″ - PS4/movies (~$800)
|
<p>Corsair CMFSL3X2-128GB 128GB Voyager is one I use myself, it's an extremely compact design, 128gb and has 90mb/s write speed, which seems to fit your specifications, however, I'm not sure about how strong the key ring attachment is, I've had this for three years now and I've had no issues so far, so I guess unless you are handling it roughly, I don't see why it could break.</p>
<p>The next best thing I can find is the Samsung USB 3.0 Flash Drive FIT 128GB (MUF-128BB) which takes size reduction to the extreme. (It's smaller than my Bluetooth mouse adapter which is almost invisible). It's 130mb/s read/write speed. Only problem is that it doesn't have the capability to be attached to a keyring. But I guess you can't have everything.</p>
|
2604
|
2016-04-28T09:18:43.097
|
|flash-drive|
|
<p>I have a <a href="https://www.pny.com/turbo-3-0-usb-flash-drive?sku=P-FD128TBOP-GE" rel="noreferrer">P-FD128TBOP-GE</a> and it's generally good, except:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>It's shown signs of corruption on a few occasions (but that seems to have stopped...)</p></li>
<li><p>It's too big/a little uncomfortable in my pocket!</p></li>
</ul>
<p>However, it's 128 GiB, achieves a ~100 MB/s sequential write speed <em>in practice</em> (not just benchmarks!), and is capless (good, because that means I don't have to worry about losing the cap).</p>
<p>Is there any flash drive that satisfies these conditions while also being noticeably smaller, ideally like one of those "nano"-sized ones? <strong>Note:</strong> I want something that won't easily break off a keychain.<br>
I'm specifically looking for fast write speeds; for me that's at least ~80 MB/s. If it has other good properties I might be a bit flexible here and go down to like 60 MB/s, it depends, but generally I want at least 80 MB/s.</p>
|
Small and fast (and preferably capless) flash drive (> ~80 MB/s write)
|
<p>Look at <a href="http://www.mikrotik.com/" rel="nofollow">Mikrotik</a> routers based on RouterBoard hardware and RouterOS software. The prices are competitive even with <em>dumb</em> switches, reconfiguring the router to act as a switch is perfectly normal (our firm uses them instead of standard switches on regular basis), they are quite robust, and it allows quite in-depth monitoring and control of the network, including per-port basis.</p>
<p>The only serious disadvantage is that the interface is not really intuitive and definitely takes some serious reading of the documentation, even for relatively simple tasks (like aforementioned reconfiguring as a switch). You can easily get lost in the countless features and miss the one you're looking for - the feature-richness may be a bit overwhelming even to a professional.</p>
|
2616
|
2016-04-29T07:23:16.457
|
|networking|switch|
|
<p>I am looking for a managed switch, which can show the current status of the ports (Up/down, speed, duplex if possible). If it's possible < 50 € and 8 ports would be ideal.</p>
<p>Preferably, but not strictly required, the MAC table associated to that port.</p>
<p>Would be nice if the status could be read easily, if it's a web interface it should do, scraping the status may not be the best, but should do. Telnet/SSH would presumably be better, but I don't know if there are products in that price range.</p>
|
Managed ("Smart") switch with port status
|
<p>I think the most useful way to answer this question is to start with the hardest part of the answer and work my way down </p>
<blockquote>
<p>should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible.
As such my starting point would be the coreboot page, since that lists systems which support opensource firmware</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I'm picking thinkpads here. I'm familiar with them, and the removable parts are mostly trivial.On this list, the T60 look handy. <em>many</em> of these features are found on newer thinkpads, but its worth considering some of the modern, boneheaded moves lenovo has made. The newer ones have worse keyboards, and of course, you need to find a superfish free version. Go with intel graphics in any case. Further research shows that "Ministry of Freedom" sells somewhat newer models than my initial recommendation of a T60 <em>preflashed</em> and <a href="https://minifree.org/product-category/laptops/" rel="nofollow">those are worth a look</a>. That said, the features I like about the T60 are true here too. </p>
<p>Lets go down your list. I have an R60, and its the 'cheap' equivilent of an T60 so I have a decent idea what the features are. Being a thinkpad, <a href="http://www.thinkwiki.org/wiki/Category:T60" rel="nofollow">thinkwiki has a great rundown on the features</a>.</p>
<p>Yes, its an older machine, but I have them running reliably with minor upgrades. They're really nice machines with a low end SSD.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Must feature a removable battery </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Two latches and it pops out</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Must feature a (somewhat easily) removable BIOS battery</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Requires removal of the keyboard and that's about it. 3-4 screws, and you don't even need a service manual to find it. Bit finicky, and I'd recommend a spudger and a small screwdrive (cross head). There's a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt6QT51JQrk" rel="nofollow">video</a> here on the process. </p>
<blockquote>
<p>Must feature a removable drive</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Its an old school thinkpad. One screw, pop out the cover, yank the drive</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Must be able operate without a persistent storage drive</p>
</blockquote>
<p>R60's USB bootable. I've done it a few times. Maxing out the ram might be an idea.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Must be able to boot from a CD / DVD either via USB or internally </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yup. Onboard, standard ATAPI drive, boots off USB fine. </p>
<blockquote>
<p>Must feature at least three USB type A ports</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yes</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Must be able to operate with Linux derivatives</p>
</blockquote>
<p>As an older machine, compatibility is solid. I'd be reasonably confident even running a full DE on it, though my machines run windows 10 or xubuntu/lubuntu. </p>
<p>Should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Price should be sub 500 USD if possible</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Ebay prices are significantly below that. Could even buy spares. I <em>strongly</em> recommend maxing out the ram if possible. </p>
<p>These are <em>solid</em> machines, and despite their age hold up well.</p>
|
2618
|
2016-04-29T14:53:16.103
|
|laptop|security|
|
<p>I was recently recommended a set of smart cards that don't feature key backup methods. However they do have a way to import plaintext keys, meaning a key ceremony is the way to go for key redundancy. </p>
<p>This yields very special requirements for a laptop being used for this ceremony for which I'd like to ask for a recommendation.</p>
<p>Requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Must feature a removable battery</p></li>
<li><p>Must feature a (somewhat easily) removable BIOS battery</p></li>
<li><p>Must feature a removable drive</p></li>
<li><p>Must be able operate without a persistent storage drive</p></li>
<li><p>Must be able to boot from a CD / DVD either via USB or internally</p></li>
<li><p>Must feature at least three USB type A ports</p></li>
<li><p>Must be able to operate with Linux derivatives</p></li>
<li><p>Should have as much open-source firmware or security certifications as possible</p></li>
<li><p>Price should be sub 500 USD if possible</p></li>
</ul>
|
Laptop for key ceremony?
|
<p>I'm finding this hilarious. The pseudoscience is stunning. That device is a pretty standard microphone that was used for attaching to a landline. The proper name escapes me (I'll update) but you can find it as a telephone suction cup <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0034I75IK" rel="nofollow">microphone</a> for between 5-20 dollars on amazon. I am unable to identify the <em>sound card</em> he is using for the capture, and the software he's using seems to be <a href="http://www.steinberg.net/en/products/wavelab/start.html" rel="nofollow">wavelab</a>. Any good soundcard should work for this I suspect</p>
<p>I'd note those things are good fun, and he might be picking up noise off of his power lead. I'm unsure what the seemingly quarter inch connector is leading off of the sound device. </p>
|
2620
|
2016-04-29T21:21:44.673
|
|usb|
|
<p>I'm looking for electromagnetic field reader as demonstrated in the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8VyUsVOic0&t=816" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this documentary</a> (shown below):</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xO7s.jpg" alt="screenshot of EMF reader from Water Memory documentary 2014"></p>
<p>Or some similar device which can do the same (measure EMF fingerprint of the placed object).</p>
|
EMF reader for USB
|
<p>Practically the only android phone I can think of that's got a keyboard these days is a <em>blackberry</em>. Specifically the <a href="http://us.blackberry.com/smartphones/priv-by-blackberry/specifications.html" rel="noreferrer">priv</a>. It runs newer versions (6.0 is coming soon(, and flagship specs - it runs a Qualcomm 8992 Snapdragon 808 Hexa-Core. Not the latest and greatest but reasonably solid, 3gb ram, and seems to have some privacy centric addons. </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOoE6.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOoE6.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/azn2j.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/azn2j.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
2623
|
2016-04-30T06:40:34.643
|
|android|smartphones|
|
<p>I just can't get used to smartphones without a physical keyboard.</p>
<p>A couple years ago I obtained <em>Sony Xperia Mini Pro</em>, which at the time was the last slider phone released. I'm still using it, but it's getting really old now, the internal storage insufficient for updates of essential apps despite moving everything I could move to SD.</p>
<p>I didn't really follow the phone market ever since, and all I know all the <em>flagship</em> phones are just touchscreen, no physical keyboard nowadays. But I don't know if someone didn't attempt a "revival", "niche market" or such releases.</p>
<p>Is there any newer, better smartphone on market, in the slider form factor - newer, better than Xperia Mini Pro?</p>
|
Is there any more modern slider form factor smartphone?
|
<p>I go to <a href="http://comparewear.com" rel="nofollow">http://comparewear.com</a></p>
<p>Then I can compare so many things there.</p>
<p>I definitely need heart rate monitor.</p>
<p>And bright screen.</p>
<p>I was looking for either Samsung Gear S2 (that can connect to any android), or Microsoft Band.</p>
<p>That being said, my friend also recommend garmin vivoactive. Battery can be charged once every 3 weeks.</p>
<p>I then go to</p>
<p><a href="http://comparewear.com/wearables/?vs=gearS2&vs=vivoactive&vs=vivoactiveHR&vs=band2" rel="nofollow">http://comparewear.com/wearables/?vs=gearS2&vs=vivoactive&vs=vivoactiveHR&vs=band2</a></p>
<p>There I saw that vivoactive and Garmin Vivoactive HR. is chargeable every 3 weeks. That is FAR FAR plus. I think that's what I am going to choose. It has all the features I need, like heart monitor.</p>
<p>Obviously I recommend the exact same thing I am choosing. So before I go ahead and buy, please let me know if I am wrong.</p>
<p>The HR model have barometer. I am not sure what it's for. But a plus. I like the look of the vivoactive normal.</p>
<p>By the way I was going for Garmin Vivoactive because <a href="http://comparewear.com/wearables/?vs=gearS2&vs=vivoactive&vs=vivoactiveHR&vs=band2" rel="nofollow">http://comparewear.com/wearables/?vs=gearS2&vs=vivoactive&vs=vivoactiveHR&vs=band2</a> said it has heart rate monitor. The thing is, <a href="https://www.shufflerun.com/garmin/vivoactive-hr-vs-garmin-vivoactive/" rel="nofollow">https://www.shufflerun.com/garmin/vivoactive-hr-vs-garmin-vivoactive/</a> says that it's not 24/7. The heart rate monitor seems to be consuming battery. Tough choice.</p>
<p>I would pick the vivoactive VR if it can last 3 weeks between charge (say by turning off 24/7 heart rate monitor). I would also prefer watch with non rechargeable battery.</p>
|
2634
|
2016-05-02T11:08:30.767
|
|smart-device|
|
<p>I am owning i5 plus. I want something more fancy.</p>
<p>I am considering samsung gear and microsoft band.</p>
<p>Microsoft band's battery only last 2 days.</p>
<p>Samsung gear only works at samsung phone. Iphone watch only works at iPhone.</p>
<p>My i5 plus is very great. However, it looks so dull. It doesn't impress my business partners.</p>
<p>I want something like i5 plus but with fancy color. Not sure if I want always on display. Battery life is kind of cool feature for me.</p>
<p>I also like the fact that i5 doesn't have unusual charger and can be charged in any USB port.</p>
<p>i5 is great. I just want something more fancy.</p>
<p>I am considering microsoft band 2. However, it has a feature I don't need, namely, gps.</p>
<p>I definitely like heart rate monitor.</p>
|
Recommend me a good high end smart band
|
<p>If money is not the issue, go for a Lenovo P50 which is already mentioned in the previous answer.
I have one with Xeon E3-1505, 4k display, Samsung 950 SSD, 16GB RAM (ECC DDR4 and you can have 64GB max), it has a Quadro M2000M Graphics card.</p>
<p>Keyboard quality is beyond any doubt.</p>
<p>But the absolute dream is the cooling of the system. Most of the time the fans stand still. Where the heat goes? I have no idea - maybe it is beamed directly into space.</p>
<p>Jokes aside, I have been a Thinkpad user since 2003 (A31p, Z61p, W500) and have waited over 6 years until Lenovo offered something of "Thinkpad" quality. This is it.</p>
|
2637
|
2016-05-02T15:26:49.430
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I am looking to purchase a laptop pc for running Windows 10. I am looking for something that is strong and rugged like the old Thinkpads used to be. Something with a strong and "non-squishy" keyboard.</p>
<p>It would need 16 GB RAM minimum with an SSD driver and at the very least a 14" screen. Any suggestions?</p>
<p>Specs looking for:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>i7 processor</p></li>
<li><p>16 GB Ram (32 GB would be awesome)</p></li>
<li><p>SSD drive</p></li>
<li><p>14" screen or higher</p></li>
<li><p>USB 3.0 ports</p></li>
<li><p>Solid build quality</p></li>
<li><p>Solid keyboard</p></li>
</ol>
<p>P.S. I already have a Macbook Pro which I love, however I would like to have a dedicated Windows machine rather than run a VM or use Boot Camp. I find the 16 GB Max Ram in the Macbook Pro is just not enough to run a Virtual Machine smoothly.</p>
<p>EDIT: Just wanted to post up that I ended up getting a Lenovo Thinkpad P50 and have been very happy with it. I was able to upgrade the RAM to 64 GB. I installed an M-2 SSD drive. Plenty of ports. Nice solid feel. I even purchased a docking station for $200 which gave me additional Display Ports. I currently run two external monitors and the internal display. Runs Visual Studio and SQL Server without issue. I also have installed games like Civ V and Supreme Commander: Forged alliance. They both run great on high detail.</p>
|
Laptop with "Thinkpad" like quality
|
<p>Old topic, however no complete answer. </p>
<p>Everybody knows GSM Arena web site with thousands of device specs? Then it's as easy as searching using their dedicated form. Even though the search feature doesn't list intel CPUs in chipset selection, one can find those using free text.</p>
<p>Following search returns (at the time of writing) 34 devices (among 3789+ Android-based devices), some being just variants of one another:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?sFreeText=INTEL&sOSes=2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?sFreeText=INTEL&sOSes=2</a></p>
<p>Here is the search URL and list extracted based on OP's requirements:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?nCpuMHzMin=2000&nRamMin=2000&sFreeText=INTEL&sOSes=2&idCardslot=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.gsmarena.com/results.php3?nCpuMHzMin=2000&nRamMin=2000&sFreeText=INTEL&sOSes=2&idCardslot=1</a></p>
<pre><code>Asus Zenfone 2 ZE551ML Android smartphone. Announced Jan 2015. Features 5.5″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z3580 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 5 MP front camera, 3000 mAh battery, 64 GB storage, 4 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3
Asus Zenfone 5 A500CG (2014) Android smartphone. Announced Jan 2014. Features 5.0″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z2580 chipset, 8 MP primary camera, 2 MP front camera, 2110 mAh battery, 32 GB storage, 2 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3.
Asus Zenfone 6 A600CG Android smartphone. Announced Jan 2014. Features 6.0″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z2580 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 2 MP front camera, 3300 mAh battery, 32 GB storage, 2 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3.
Asus Zenfone 2 Deluxe ZE551ML Android smartphone. Announced Aug 2015. Features 5.5″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z3580 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 5 MP front camera, 3000 mAh battery, 256 GB storage, 4 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3.
Asus Zenfone Zoom ZX551ML Android smartphone. Announced Sep 2015. Features 5.5″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z3590 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 5 MP front camera, 3000 mAh battery, 128 GB storage, 4 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 4.
Asus Zenfone Zoom ZX550 Android smartphone. Announced Jan 2015. Features 5.5″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z3580 chipset, 13 MP primary camera, 5 MP front camera, 3000 mAh battery, 128 GB storage, 4 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass 3.
Asus Fonepad Note FHD6 Android smartphone. Announced Jun 2013. Features 6.0″ Super IPS+ LCD display, Intel Atom Z2580 chipset, 8 MP primary camera, 1.2 MP front camera, 3200 mAh battery, 32 GB storage, 2 GB RAM.
ZTE Geek V975 Android smartphone. Announced Apr 2013. Features 5.0″ IPS LCD display, Intel Atom Z2580 chipset, 8 MP primary camera, 1 MP front camera, 2300 mAh battery, 16 GB storage, 2 GB RAM, Corning Gorilla Glass.
</code></pre>
|
2653
|
2016-05-05T13:31:47.093
|
|android|smartphones|
|
<p>I've been looking for an Android phone with an x86 processor. I've googled a lot, searched online and physical retailers, etc, but so far I've only been able to find the Asus Zenfone. </p>
<p>I'm looking for a phone with a quad or dual core x86 processor. I want at least 2 GHz of processing power and at least 2 GB of RAM. Any candidates must have a micro SD card slot.</p>
<p>Are there any other options than the Asus Zenfone?</p>
|
Are there other x86 Android phones than the Asus Zenfone?
|
<p>We ended up going to a local PC store today so my mother could physically examine the printers. I will give a brief run down of the printers we looked at, it may help others with their choice.</p>
<p>My mother had already decided that having an SD card was now a must rather than a nice to have.</p>
<p><strong>HP</strong></p>
<p>The store had a decent range of HP MFP's however none of them had all the requirements. They were missing either one or two different requirements. For example, one had 4 colour inks but was lacking the SD card slot, where as another had all the requirements but the coloured ink was in a single cartridge.</p>
<p>The build quality was pretty solid across all the models and the prices were roughly similar with a rough average of about £120.</p>
<p><strong>Epson</strong></p>
<p>It looked like the store had quite a range of Epson printers, many in budget or under. I tried to insist that we should at least look at them in the interests of fairness but was over-ruled. I am only mentioning them here as balance.</p>
<p><strong>Brother</strong></p>
<p>There were two Brother devices that met our requirements apart from build quality. The display models looked shabby and flimsy, especially considering the prices of them were quite high. That said they both made our shortlist because they could handle A3 paper. They were eventually discounted as we felt they would not stand up to regular use.</p>
<p>The models we considered were:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.brother.co.uk/printers/inkjet-printers/dcpj4120dw">DCPJ4120DW</a> (£120)</li>
<li><a href="http://support.brother.com/g/b/producttop.aspx?c=eu_ot&lang=en&prod=mfcj4625dw_eu">MFC-J4625DW</a> (£160)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Other</strong></p>
<p>The store we went only had a single Samsung printer and a single Lexmark printer available. The Samsung did not have an SD card slot and was well out of budget and the Lexmark was a standalone printer with no scanning capabilities.</p>
<p><strong>Canon</strong></p>
<p>I have left Canon until last as we ultimately ended up getting a Canon device. The build quality of all the Canon's, even the sub-£50 ones, was excellent. On a similar par to HP.</p>
<p>We were also hugely impressed by the design philosophy that had been followed on the mid-range printers, they looked "unprinterish".</p>
<p>The two that made it on to our shortlist were:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.canon.co.uk/printers/inkjet/pixma/pixma_mg6800_series/">Pixma MG6851</a> (£100)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.canon.co.uk/printers/inkjet/pixma/pixma_mg7700_series/">Pixma MG7751</a> (£150)</li>
</ul>
<p>These are almost identical printers but we ended up choosing the <strong>Pixma MG6851</strong>. The things that swung it were the fact it was on sale at £80 and the fewer inks. My mother was concerned that the extra "grey" cartridge in the MG7751 would make the ink more expensive in the long run, even though she preferred the minimalist look on the MG7751.</p>
|
2662
|
2016-05-06T15:39:46.300
|
|printer|scanner|
|
<p>I am looking for a home office printer as my mother's current HP C310 has finally died completely, the print head has failed and they are unable to source replacement parts.</p>
<p>The requirements are as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>Must be capable of printing at photo quality</li>
<li>Must be multi-functional (printer and scanner)</li>
<li>The ink must be available as separate colours</li>
<li>Must not be an Epson</li>
<li>Price in the range of £100-£150</li>
</ul>
<p>The optional nice to haves would be:</p>
<ul>
<li>WiFi</li>
<li>SD card slot</li>
<li>Touch-screen display</li>
</ul>
<p>I have been advised by the printer repair guy that we should consider printers with the print heads built into the cartridges, is this sound advice?</p>
|
Home Office Inkjet Printer
|
<p>I know this is old. But I'd like to suggest folks look at Sound Bars.</p>
<p>While I personally have a (older) Yamaha AVENTAGE AV system (the cheapest of the line), 5 inputs and 1 output, hooked to some big speakers. Sound-bars have become popular in recent years. A friend of mine switched his AV system to a sound-bar.</p>
<p>They may be less expensive than going full AV system.</p>
<p>The big feature I learned about is ARC, or Audio Return Channel. This allows sound from the TV to go "backwards" into the AV system. Thereby using the HDMI inputs on the TV.</p>
<p>Rather than plugging everything into the AV system, you can plug into the TV and go the other way. I watch live TV from the antenna and the sound comes out the AV speakers. The two ends decide who is the audio source.</p>
<p>I recently bought an XBOX and didn't want to fiddle with the cluster of wires behind the AV system. So I did the lazy thing and plugged it directly into the TV. The audio is still Dolby-decoded and played on the AV system.</p>
|
2669
|
2016-05-07T17:58:21.370
|
|television|sound-system|
|
<p>(Sorry for the title, but I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to home entertainment equipment)</p>
<p>Recently, I got a 48" TCL Roku TV to replace a 59" Sony projector TV. It's pretty nice, with a good image after some fiddling and with the flexibility of the Roku software, but it has a problem; the sound leaves a lot to be desired.</p>
<p>Because of that, I'm thinking of saving up to get an external sound system. I figure I might as well go all-out and get some sort of 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound system. </p>
<p>Since the TV only has a 3.5mm audio jack and an optical audio out, running one of those to a surround system would be out of the question, especially since at least the 3.5mm Jack outputs terrible quality sound. </p>
<p>I believe a some sort of A/V receiver would be the best option. It would need to have 3 HDMI inputs (at least), possibly a few composite inputs, and optical audio in so that the smart features of the TV could have sound run to the system.</p>
<p>The problem I have is a complete lack of knowledge on how to look for what I need. Do receivers have the capability of acting as a sort of switcher for the inputs, just needing one cable to the TV? Do they work as passthroughs?</p>
<p>I have no idea how to look for one, and I don't know if this is even the right place to ask (or if I asked correctly), but I'm more than willing to completely rewrite the question if that helps anyone help me.</p>
|
A/V receiver for HDMI, optical audio in
|
<p>Personally I think that it is more technical support question but I will say few words about it.</p>
<p><strong>Explanation:</strong> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://superuser.com/a/560832/564989">Super user explanation what OC memory in MOBO description means.</a></li>
<li>What does it mean for you ? It means that your motherboard will support memory up to 3600 MHz in dual-channel and up to 3866 MHz in single-channel. You have to load RAM <a href="http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/extreme-memory-profile-xmp.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">XMP profile</a> and it will work with desired frequency.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>My proposition:</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme7+/?cat=Specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASRock Z170 Extreme7+</a> is very good motherboard but only if you want overclock your new setup if not <a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/90591" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Z170 chipset</a> will give you only support for higher frequency RAM what won't give proportional efficiency to the price paid for it. So if you won't overclock you should look for motherboards on <a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/90590/Intel-GL82H110-PCH" rel="nofollow noreferrer">H110</a> or <a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/90592/Intel-GL82B150-PCH" rel="nofollow noreferrer">B150</a> chipset and 2133 Mhz RAM with lowest CL.</p>
<p>B150 recommendation:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://msi.com/Motherboard/B150M-MORTAR.html#hero-specification" rel="nofollow noreferrer">B150M MORTAR</a> - <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130890" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$90 on newegg.com</a></li>
</ul>
<p>H110 recommendation:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-PRO-VD.html#hero-overview" rel="nofollow noreferrer">H110M PRO-VD</a> - <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130897" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$56 on newegg.com</a></li>
</ul>
|
2696
|
2016-05-11T15:12:46.867
|
|motherboard|memory|
|
<p>I am preparing to buy a new desktop PC as the old one is 8 years already and not really upgradable. I see there are DDR4 modules running at 2133MHz and others running at 3200 MHz.</p>
<p>However, I have seen motherboards supporting only DDR4 2133MHz, or DDR4 2133MHz + DDR4 2400+ MHz OC (like this <a href="http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20Extreme7+/?cat=Specifications" rel="nofollow">ASRock Z170</a>). What I understand is that in order to run at higher than 2133MHz speed, overclock is needed. </p>
<ul>
<li>Is there a motherboard that supports DDR4 modules running at 3200MHz (or any greater than 2133 MHz) out of the box?</li>
</ul>
<p>This RAM overclocking is completely new to me and still unclear.</p>
|
Motherboard for DDR4 2400+ MHz
|
<p>The <a href="http://www.sapphiretech.com/productdetial.asp?pid=98BCB552-6560-4C44-94ED-E57CD03F9C15&lang=eng" rel="nofollow">Sapphire R7 250 Ultimate</a> meets most of the requirements: </p>
<ul>
<li>Dual 4k/60fps capable</li>
<li>Passively cooled</li>
<li>One DP (can be split into two or more DP displays with an <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158403&cm_re=display_port_dual_head-_-15-158-403-_-Product" rel="nofollow">MST hub such as this</a>.</li>
<li>AMD chipset</li>
</ul>
|
2702
|
2016-05-12T14:37:49.273
|
|graphics-cards|pc|cooling|
|
<p>Looking at recommendations for a graphics card that fulfills the following spec in order of importance:</p>
<ul>
<li>Dual 4K (60hz) capable</li>
<li>Passive cooled</li>
<li>Cheap (only business graphics required)</li>
<li>Two displayport/ mini display port connectors</li>
<li>AMD chipset</li>
</ul>
|
Passive cooled graphics card for dual 4K screens
|
<p>If I am understanding your question correctly, check out <a href="https://www.google.ca/chromecast/speakers/" rel="nofollow">Chromecast Audio</a>. It might solve your problems. </p>
<p>As far as latency is concerned there shouldn't be <em>much</em>, but it is very hard to know the answer to this portion of the question without knowing all the variables, and there are <strong>A LOT</strong> when it comes to wireless frequencies, as I am sure you are aware. </p>
|
2710
|
2016-05-13T14:45:08.257
|
|speakers|
|
<p>Basically I bought a pair of omni 10 speakers.</p>
<p>The sounds are great. However, the audio latency is 1000ms. I am using bluetooth to connect. Omni 10 doesn't have aptx.</p>
<p>I am looking for something like this</p>
<p><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Z61YAAE?psc=1" rel="nofollow">https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Z61YAAE?psc=1</a></p>
<p>Basically I want to connect my pc to my omni speakers using regular 3.5 mm. However, I don't want to use 3 m normal audio cable to connect my PC to OMNI 10. Doing so results in high delay.</p>
<p>I want my PC to connect to a wifi that then connect to the speaker using 3.5 mm cable. Is that even possible?</p>
<p>Can that be done? Will that reduce audio latency?</p>
<p>Basically it should turn any speakers with 3.5mm input into wireless speakers.</p>
<p>Update searching for turn speakers into wireless speakers yield this:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.wired.com/2014/08/bluetooth-audio-adapters/" rel="nofollow">http://www.wired.com/2014/08/bluetooth-audio-adapters/</a></p>
<p>That sort of works. The problem is I already connect my omni 10 with bluetooth. I want to reduce the latency. I have also heard that streaming audio via wifi is much better than via bluetooth.</p>
<p>I "suspected" that this is what I need <a href="http://audioengineusa.com/Store/W3-Wireless-Audio-Adapter" rel="nofollow">http://audioengineusa.com/Store/W3-Wireless-Audio-Adapter</a></p>
<p>Is it? I am not sure. It seems to use wifi. We connect something to computer with USB and then it plugs to my speakers using 3.5 mm.</p>
|
I need a tool that can convert any speakers into wifi speakers
|
<p>I'd post as a comment but I can't do that. What about the Orange Pi? </p>
<p><a href="http://www.orangepi.org/" rel="nofollow">http://www.orangepi.org/</a></p>
<p>ARM <br>
Open Source <br>
Docs might be lacking though <br>
Can control things</p>
|
2724
|
2016-05-16T11:31:55.073
|
|embedded-systems|
|
<p>I need a single board computer, on which I can easily learn bare-bone OS programming. In particular I need something like Raspberry PI, but:</p>
<ul>
<li>execution power must be circa about Raspberry Pi 3</li>
<li>must have Wi-Fi and Bluetooth built on board</li>
<li>must have very very good documentation (best if hardware was open source also)</li>
<li>architecture should be multicore ARM or multicore Intel (generation does not matter)</li>
<li>must also have possibility to use board to control external devices ( should have couple of GPIOs, some SPI communication etc.)</li>
</ul>
|
hardware board to learn OS programming
|
<p>For my dev work, I use a Dell 7440 with 16GB of RAM on a 256GB SSD. Tried a touchscreen, and found the smaller screen with integrated touch capacity just isn't the best when it comes to smaller motions and specific points to click within code or a field. Also, the touch capacity reduces overall screen size due to additional internal hardware requirements.</p>
<p>I have a machine with another 500GB SSD, an XPS 14, and found it not a usable as the E7440. The keyboard and integrated mousepad/touchpad aren't nearly as user friendly.</p>
<p>My wife has a Folio 14 with 16 GB of ram, i7, 256gb ssd.</p>
<p>With many dev environments running online and online repo's, and the projection over the next few years to go that route, massive amounts of internal storage for dev isn't necessary.</p>
|
2734
|
2016-05-17T20:25:20.627
|
|laptop|
|
<p>Heyo. Here's my situation: I'm looking for a laptop basically acting as a mobile workstation extension for my home computer. For what it matters, I'm doing mainly programming and college work as well as the occasional match of League of Legends with friends (fairly low requirements). Because of the programming part, I've went for a 4k display which has paid off for sure. I'm just so much more efficient with it than with a standard FullHD monitor.</p>
<hr>
<p>Enough about the past, here's what I want:</p>
<ul>
<li>working between and sometimes during classes in college on fairly basic tasks like completing homework and studying (pdf and browser)</li>
<li>programming. Being able to quickly try something on the go after discussing it is important to me (which is why I'm looking for a laptop in the first place)</li>
<li>concerning the finish, I'd much prefer something with an emphasis on usability, meaning not too heavy, not too fragile. I don't like having to worry about 1) whether to bring it because it's too heavy or 2) where to put it in order not to break it</li>
<li>I like to think of myself as a creative person and I learn visually, so having a touch screen is something I think will be worth a lot to what I do and how I do it</li>
<li>as I said, the occasional match of League of Legends, but no serious gaming and I quite frankly don't care whether it runs on medium or high settings</li>
<li>2 in 1. Because it's cool. Not because I necessarily need it :P</li>
<li>I plan on doing most (programming) work remotely via some kind of screen forwarding</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>Which leads me to what is probably most important (<strong>tl;dr</strong>), the requirement list in order of importance:</p>
<ul>
<li>2 in 1</li>
<li>full HD with on a screen size between 12"/13" and 15"</li>
<li>goooood battery, >5h of realistic usage</li>
<li>reliable and light case</li>
<li>a usable network adapter</li>
<li>i5+ is desirable, not a precondition though</li>
<li>SSD or SSHD is a bonus</li>
<li>4GB of RAM (should be no problem anyways)</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p><strong>Closing words.</strong> I'm asking here because I'm mainly concerned about usability and the overall quality of the thing, including battery for example. Those are things you can't just look up on a comparison website. </p>
<p>The budget is somewhere roughly between 700 and 1000 Euros, which should translate into about 800 to 1150 USD.</p>
<hr>
<p>Things on my (probably incomplete) list right now:</p>
<ul>
<li>Lenovo Yoga 2 13</li>
<li>Lenovo Yoga 3 14</li>
<li>Lenovo Yoga 700 14ISK</li>
<li>Acer Aspire R5</li>
<li>ASUS Transformer Book Flip</li>
</ul>
<p>Those are (hopefully most of the) devices which meet the formal part requirements and are available at my budget range.</p>
|
high quality finish, 2 in 1 laptop for (remote) college work
|
<p>The PS3 had 2 major advantages - it was an open system and the 'cell' architecture, which was easy to program for and fairly powerful. They were also slimline</p>
<p>I'd argue that the most sensible way to equal that would be a cluster of regular 'consumer' PCs. The wording of the question though means I'll need to cheat a bit and I'll suggest a <em>steam machine</em>.</p>
<p>Why?</p>
<p>Most modern consoles are x86 based, with laptop class video. They are locked down though there's projects to try to get <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free60" rel="nofollow">xbox360</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free60" rel="nofollow">ps4</a> running linux.</p>
<p>Many of them have nice small form factors (the 5x5 and NUC form factors would be a good starting point). They have reasonable compute power, and in most cases, nuc class machines compare favourably in price to modern consoles. If you standardise on one model, you can stack em. If you need more powerful machines or a supported OS 5 or 10 years down the road, its a common ISA likely to have support.</p>
<p>Unlike a <em>traditional</em> console, its unlikely someone will take away your ability to run your own OS on it. </p>
|
2750
|
2016-05-20T14:41:35.537
|
|video-game-console|cluster-computing|
|
<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_3_cluster" rel="nofollow">PlayStation 3 cluster</a> provided high-performance computing for reasonable price. One example was Condor Cluster (a US Air Force supercomputer built out of 1,760 Sony PlayStation 3s running the Linux operating system, the 33rd largest supercomputer in the world at that time).</p>
<p>However this declined since Sony's OS update in 2010 which disabled ability to run other operating systems such as direct installation of Linux.</p>
<p>Are there any alternative video game consoles which can be used for clustered computing which you can recommend? With reasonable compute power vs price ratio.</p>
|
Alternative game-console cluster to PS3
|
<p>Don't know why this question is being downvoted, seems reasonable, and I am in the market for something like this myself. I like the look of the MSI GTX 960. Can drive multiple 4k monitors, has 3xDP, 1xHDMI and 1xDVI-D outputs and is apparently very quiet - the fans can be stopped completely in "silent mode" which should be enough for non-gaming use.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-2g,review-33260.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/msi-geforce-gtx-960-gaming-2g,review-33260.html</a></p>
|
2751
|
2016-05-20T19:28:11.357
|
|graphics-cards|development|4k|
|
<p>I just got a Dell 8900 and would like to get a graphics card. The card would have to be able to drive two monitors (2 x 2k) or one 4K monitor. I never play games - just do development work using Visual Studio and Eclipse and occasionally watch films on my monitors. What card would be good enough for this?
I am interested in spending $150-250. The built in graphics cannot support a 4K monitor.</p>
|
need programming video card
|
<p>I'm not sure why I didn't find this solution a little faster, I guess I was just googling the wrong thing. The phantek hub needs to be plugged into a fan connection on the mobo, but not the CPU_OPT. </p>
<p>Then, in the bios, you need to allow your fans to be controlled by something other than the bios. </p>
<p>After that, everything worked fine.</p>
|
2763
|
2016-05-21T04:21:28.213
|
|pc|windows|case|fan-controller|
|
<p>I recently built a new computer, and I'm having some issues (I think).</p>
<p>Here's my gear</p>
<p>Case: <a href="http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ATX.html" rel="nofollow">Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX</a></p>
<p>Case Accessory: <a href="http://i.gyazo.com/b2d3f2f75cf48491cfcd5ccbc64aa8db.png" rel="nofollow">Phanteks fan hub</a></p>
<p>Mobo: <a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/" rel="nofollow">Asus Maximus VIII Hero</a></p>
<p>CPU Cooler: <a href="http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h110i-gtx-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler" rel="nofollow">Corsair Hydro Series H110i GTX</a></p>
<p>My issue is that the instructions that come with the Phanteks case is pretty lacking on instructions for the fan hub on the back. I've read conflicting information on how to connect these devices, and I figured I'd ask here to make sure I actually did it correctly.</p>
<p>My problem is that right now, the fans all stay 100% all the time. It's pretty loud, and it's possible that that's the way it's supposed to be, but I hope not. To be clear, the case fans appear to be the culprits.</p>
<p>Here's how I have everything set up:</p>
<p><code>H110i GTX
|
|two fan cables
------------------------>both fans
|
|water pump
------------------------>CPU_FAN
|
|data cable
------------------------>USB 2.0</code></p>
<p><code>Phanteks fan hub
|
|CPU_FAN
------------------------>CPU_OPT
|
|Sata power
------------------------>Sata power
|
|3 x 4 pin fans
------------------------>3 Case fans
</code></p>
<p>The real confusion here is caused by the fact that the Phanteks case instructions say to connect their fan hub to the cpu_fan, but so does the H110i. From googling around, I found some people that had done it this way, but man, this thing is loud. Any advice?</p>
<hr>
<p><strong>EDIT 1</strong></p>
<p>Another thing I should mention. I'm using the AI Suite 3 software that came with the mobo. It's supposed to let you control the case fan speeds. When I have the fan hub connected to CPU_OPT, it's not showing any case fans in the software. If I connect CPU_OPT to any other fan connection on the mobo, then it shows up, but it still won't let me change any values.</p>
<hr>
<p><strong>EDIT 2</strong></p>
<p>After a little more research, I found out that the AI Suite 3 software won't have any control over your fans if you don't set the fan mode to PWM in the bios. I went into the bios, and now it controls the fans. The only issue now is that the case fans aren't turning on at all. I'm wondering if the temperature just isn't high enough, and they'll turn on once it's higher. If it turns on when the heat is higher, or if it doesn't turn on, I'll report back here.</p>
|
How do I use the Phanteks fan hub with Corsair H110i GTX
|
<p>I have to admit, I had to educate myself about Gurobi.</p>
<p>It looks like it is a software suite for linear optimization problems. It also seems, it is a regular one, i.e. with "simple" C++ and R sequential implementations.</p>
<p>For that, any CPU in your budget will do. You should just try - within your budget limits - get the best clock/cache/cores combination. An AVX512 capable CPU seems to make sense.</p>
<p>But let me offer an extended perspective on this.</p>
<p>If performance is your main concern, you should have a look at GPU computing. As for GPU accelerated solvers, see e.g. <a href="https://developer.nvidia.com/amgx" rel="nofollow">https://developer.nvidia.com/amgx</a>, which gives promising speedups of a factor of 10 within your reach.</p>
<p>Maybe, spend only reasonable money on an average CPU. If you get the Gurobi vendor to support AmgX, you can buy also a reasonable CUDA-capable GPU and still have speedup by a factor of 10, which would not be possible by any economically feasible CPU.</p>
<p>See also e.g. <a href="http://vratis.com/blog/" rel="nofollow">http://vratis.com/blog/</a> OpenFOAM and other software does actually already support AmgX, so maybe it would not take too much effort to convince Gurobi to think about it.</p>
|
2770
|
2016-05-22T14:28:58.550
|
|processor|
|
<p>I consider buying a new desktop computer and I work on academic MIP optimization problems with Gurobi.</p>
<p>I know that GPUs cannot be leveraged by MIP solvers, so my question rather concerns the choice of the CPU (and possible related configuration matters). </p>
<p>Do you have any recommendation for a CPU fitting in a standard desktop computer (=available at computer retail stores) which purpose is primarily to solve MIP problems?</p>
|
Is there a CPU particularly well suited for solving MIPs with Gurobi?
|
<p>The linked drive may use a PCIe interface, but it <em>not</em> a <em>PCIe form factor</em> card. It is an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M.2" rel="nofollow">M.2 form factor</a> device and requires an M.2 slot. Without some sort of adapter, it will not work in your M.2-lacking motherboard.</p>
<p>The M.2 form factor is designed to connect to multiple interfaces - SATA and PCIe - over the same physical connector. Depending on the capabilities of the connector and device, they're keyed differently to prevent you from attempting to connect incompatible devices (a PCIe-only device in a SATA-only M.2 port, for instance).</p>
<p>The adapter you linked should do the job. As far as PCIe 2.0 vs. PCIe 3.0 goes, PCIe 3.0 devices are backwards compatible, they'll just run slower.</p>
<p>As far as lane count goes, you can use a card that demands fewer lanes (4x vs 16x) in a slot with more lanes; the other pins aren't on the card, and therefore do nothing. Going the other direction requires paying more attention. Some cards need the bandwidth of all the lanes they're spec'd for, and some boards have things like 8x electrical slots in 16x mechanical slots for security/fit purposes (there are missing pins on the board end).</p>
|
2771
|
2016-05-22T15:05:39.103
|
|ssd|pcie|
|
<p>I am about to purchase a <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147466&cm_re=950_pro-_-20-147-466-_-Product" rel="nofollow">Samsung 950 Pro PCIe SSD</a>. I have a <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130637" rel="nofollow">MSI 970A motherboard</a>. I am wondering if I can insert the 950 pro stick <strong>directly into</strong> one of the x16 slots. I read online that PCIe slots are backwards compatible (so the x4 should work in a x16).</p>
<p>Is this possible? Do I need a <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=12K-017B-00001" rel="nofollow">converter</a>?</p>
<p>Also, don't have a M.2 slot on my motherboard. I noticed I have PCIe2.0 slots, not 3.0 slots. Will my SSD still work?</p>
|
Can I use my Samsung 950 pro PCIe SSD directly into my x16 slot?
|
<p>I would suggest going to Skylake. However, I don't know what kind of prices you'll pay for it, but I'll throw some things our there and you can decide how to proceed. </p>
<p>Motherboard, one option @ ~$98 <strong>Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151</strong></p>
<p>Processor, @ ~$195 <strong>Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core</strong> (you could bump down to 6400 or an i3-6100 for good performance/price)</p>
<p>RAM, you will have to have DDR4, @ ~$35 <strong>G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400</strong></p>
<p>This is what I'm considering for a modest upgrade for myself. I also used this, <a href="http://www.logicalincrements.com/#" rel="nofollow">http://www.logicalincrements.com/#</a> to help me make some recommendations along with <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/" rel="nofollow">http://pcpartpicker.com/</a> to look at similar parts and prices. Both sites are great tools. </p>
|
2780
|
2016-05-24T00:48:07.130
|
|gaming|processor|desktop|motherboard|
|
<p>The i5-2500K is a great processor, even nowadays, but only if you can overclock it. I have a H77 chipset board, that means no OC for me. So, I need a recommendation of CPU and motherboard. I'm looking for a "successor", good cost/benefit, like the 2500k.
I have DDR3 RAM, so I think Skylake is a problem?</p>
<p>PC specs:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>CPU: i5-2500K turbo: 3.7GHz </p></li>
<li><p>Motherboard: Asus P8H77-V LE </p></li>
<li><p>RAM: 4x4GB DDR3 1333mhz (dual channel only, 1.5V)</p></li>
<li><p>GPU: Nvidia GTX950</p></li>
</ul>
|
Stuck with H77 (non-OC) and I5-2500K
|
<p><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharp-LC-32CFE5111K-32-Inch-Widescreen-Freeview/dp/B015CZYM5Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-theater&ie=UTF8&qid=1464627192&sr=1-1" rel="nofollow">Sharp LC-32CFE5111K</a> looks OK, if only they had a slightly smaller model. </p>
<p>Would also like to buy it from a real shop, but they appear not to like 28" models or recording models so much.</p>
|
2801
|
2016-05-28T20:59:29.703
|
|television|hdtv|
|
<p>I just wondered whether anybody had a recommendation for an LED TV with these features:</p>
<ul>
<li>1080p horizontal resolution.</li>
<li>DVB-T2 tuner ("Freeview HD").</li>
<li>28"-32", ideally 28", but that size seems a bit neglected.</li>
<li><p>Ability to connect PC/laptop for DVD playback (probably standard?).</p></li>
<li><p>Ideally ability to record to USB.</p></li>
<li>Ideally less than £200.</li>
</ul>
<p>I am not interested in "smart" TVs.</p>
<p>I am surprised it feels necessary to ask here, but the focus seems to be on 32" and upwards. 28" seems the ideal size to me, but I struggle a bit to find these things in that size - in some cases comparable 32" TVs are cheaper, but they are a little bit too big.</p>
|
Medium sized HD LED TV
|
<p>Found some alternatives (which do not fulfill all requirements) during my search:</p>
<p>CoDrone</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/728836843/codrone-learn-to-code-with-programmable-drone/description" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/728836843/codrone-learn-to-code-with-programmable-drone/description</a></li>
<li><a href="https://forum.robolink.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://forum.robolink.com/</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Drone Pi (Raspberry Pi + MultWii)</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Drone-Pi/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Drone-Pi/</a></li>
</ul>
|
2815
|
2016-05-31T08:18:17.707
|
|drone|
|
<p>Building on the previous project of autonomic robot cars, controlled by a Raspberry Pi + BrickPi, delivering packages, we want to use (<strong>indoor</strong>) quadcopter drones for similar purposes.</p>
<p>Since this educational project accounts for the bachelor dissertation of computer scientists, the drone must be <strong>programmable</strong> (e.g. given some sequence of coordinates or actions, the drone must be able to execute them) <em>or</em> it must be able to write a program to <strong>interactively steer</strong> the drone. The drone must also have a camera and be able to send the <strong>camera stream over WiFi/Bluetooth/...</strong> to a separate PC. This PC processes the stream and decides on the steering of the drone based on for instance the content of the images. Note that there are drones who can only store the camera stream internally and others who can send the camera stream to for instance a smartphone. The last functionality is called FPV (First Person View).</p>
<p>Furthermore, the drones should ideally contain a <strong>gyroscope and accelerometer</strong>, of which the sensor values can be used in a PID controller (on the drone itself <em>or</em> on a separate PC).</p>
<p>It would be nice (but is no requirement) to attach an <strong>electromagnet</strong> underneath the drone to attach and detach small objects.</p>
<p>With regard to <strong>battery life</strong>, we aim for at least 10 min.</p>
<p>The drones will be used for multiple course years. Therefore, we would like the separate components to last as long as possible and be resistant to crashes. For instance, brushed motors will need to be replaced after a couple of hours of flight, so we rather avoid these (if possible for the given budget).</p>
<p>Finally, since there are probably dozens of drones these days which match the previous requirements, <strong>price</strong> is also important: below $100 (we will buy multiple drones so it would be nice if a batch of drones drops the price).</p>
|
Programmable quadcopter drones
|
<p>This does not answer your Question directly, but provides another approch:<br>
I would keep the current device and go with a solution wich cuts the 24/7 charge to some hours per day. This stops the overheating and you do not need to buy a new tablet.<br>
To do this I would buy a time switch, which is a device that switches a socket on and off based on the times you set on the device. This way you can keep all devices plugged in and the device disables the power source without further do.<br>
To have this work perfectly you have to find a time span which holds your charge at your desired level across all devices, as an example 3 hours loading, 3 hours on battery should keep your devices over critical battery levels. However if the power consume across all devices is to far part you should consider using a second time switch for this device/s.<br>
I would group the devices based on battery capacity and charging speed and aim to keep the battery level between 20-80%. Also note that the Li-Ion battery does not charge in a linear way and significantly charges slower from about 80% charge level.</p>
|
3843
|
2016-06-06T08:50:46.480
|
|android|tablet|
|
<p>I am looking for an Android tablet which can easily run multiple weeks or even months while being hooked up to a power source.</p>
<p>I want to use the tablet for automatically taking screenshots of websites, taking from a queue which is being filled constantly.</p>
<p>The (no-name) tablets I am using currently get really hot very fast and seem to slow down as a result, so the Android phone (Samsung S3 Neo) are taking three times as many screenshots per hour than the tablets.</p>
<p><strong>Requirements</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>a decent processor and RAM</li>
<li>battery life irrelevant, it will be powered</li>
<li>must sustain working a long time without getting too hot</li>
</ul>
|
Android Tablet for long time usage
|
<p><strong>Before buying an ASUS laptop, please read <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20160606135858/http://teletext.zaibatsutel.net/post/145370716258/deadupdate-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> first.</strong>
-Thanks <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/8/artofcode">ArtOfCode</a> for pointing this out.</p>
<p><br><br></p>
<p>ASUS makes good general use Laptops. I've owned an ASUS laptop a couple generations older than this one and had no issues other than the battery life left a lot to be desired.</p>
<p>Keyboard feels very solid (similar to a MacBook Pro).
Trackpad could be a little better but worked quite well.
Solid USB other connections. Not wiggly.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JuDUW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JuDUW.jpg" alt="Image courtesy of Newegg.com"></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9B53PV8864" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS X751LX</a></p>
|
3854
|
2016-06-06T15:16:21.433
|
|laptop|
|
<p>Maybe this isn't the best question to ask, but I am looking for recommendations.</p>
<p>I'm looking for a good general use laptop that needs to run Quickbooks and MS Office. I'd like at least an i5 Intel proc, 8 GB of RAM, SSD would be nice but HDD is fine, and the kicker: 17.3" screen. I'd like it to be priced around $1000 USD. </p>
<p>I've been browsing the major manufacturer sites (Dell, HP, Lenovo) but I haven't really found the best deal. I have seen a couple that would fit, but I'd like some recommendations or alternatives.</p>
|
I'm looking for a good general use laptop with a few requirements
|
<p>As Cfinley noted, there is no benefit to matching GPU and motherboard manufacturer parts. Since you were looking at MSI and ASUS boards, I specifically looked at those two manufacturers. I think the ASUS Z97-E would meet everything you are looking for, remain under your budget (currently has a mail-in rebate as well), and be a bit more future-proof than the ASUS Z97-P you had found as it also includes USB 3.1. Also, the motherboard is black with white lettering and gold/yellow trim pieces.</p>
<p>Heres the direct link to it on Newegg:
<a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132512" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132512</a></p>
<p>Worth mentioning, there are boards with more features such as additional PCIe slots, more USB 3.0 ports, and better onboard audio available for a little more ($140+). If you want to go this route there are several decent options from MSI, Gigabyte, Asus, and ASRock available. However, since you mentioned you only plan on having GPU, you could get a PCIe sound card for <em>much</em> better audio whenever your budget allows for it in the future.</p>
|
3869
|
2016-06-08T12:02:51.813
|
|motherboard|
|
<p>First of all I am new to this site and I hope my question is not off-topic. I have done some research in the Meta and looked up if similar questions have been closed or not and I think I am on-topic. If not, I apologize.</p>
<hr />
<p>I am currently preparing a configuration for my next PC and, although I know enough to chose almost all the components myself, I really have poor knowledge when it comes to motherboards. I really can't tell if a motherboard is a good one or a bad one, if it will suit my needs and which chipsets are best.</p>
<p><strong>My configuration :</strong></p>
<blockquote>
<p>CPU : Intel Core i7-4790K (4.0 GHz)</p>
<p>GPU : Asus GeForce GTX 960 STRIX DirectCU II, 4 Gb</p>
<p>RAM : 2x4Gb DDR3-1866 HyperX Fury, Cas10</p>
<p>One 250Gb SSD</p>
<p>One 1Tb HDD</p>
</blockquote>
<p><em>(theses are the informations I think are needed, if you need to know what other components I have chosen, ask in the comments and I will update this question)</em></p>
<p><strong>Requirements & additional info</strong> :</p>
<ul>
<li><p>The motherboard must be ATX format.</p>
</li>
<li><p>It should be under $110 if possible</p>
</li>
<li><p>I need it to have USB 3.0 ports</p>
</li>
<li><p>Socket is 1150</p>
</li>
<li><p>I will use my PC for graphic design and for playing games.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I don't plan to ever buy an additional GPU (which means only one slot is enough).</p>
</li>
<li><p>There will be no sound card in my configuration so I prefer a motherboard with good sound quality</p>
</li>
<li><p>I prefer having 4 RAM slots for it is possible I buy more RAM in the future.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Bonus points if the motherboard is black and yellow or black and white ;)</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p><em>As I am getting an overclockable CPU I read - but am unsure if this is true - I will need a Z97 chipset if I want to exploit my CPU to the max, and that Z97 is also one of the best chipsets available for a configuration with recent components. If Z97 isn't required or specially better than other chipsets I have no idea which one I should get.</em></p>
<p><strong>Motherboards I consider buying</strong></p>
<p>Obviously I have already done some research and there are 2 motherboards that caught my attention :</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130779" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI Z97 PC Mate</a></li>
</ul>
<p>This one has very good reviews but I wonder if it is not a bit "cheap" (in both meanings) and if it will be sufficient for my configuration</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132229" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus Z97-P</a></li>
</ul>
<p>I thought is was a good idea to get a motherboard from the same constructor as my GPU (correct me if this is a stupid thought) and this one seems pretty good. But here I am wondering if I really need a motherboard at this price if some cheaper ones like the MSI above can do the job.</p>
<hr />
<p>So here are all the informations. What motherboard would you buy to suit this configuration and these requirement best ?</p>
|
ATX 1150 Intel-compatible motherboard under $110 for gaming / graphic design PC
|
<p>If you just want to do some light work such as web browsing, video watching and document editing, then you can just get a Chromebook. They do all these tasks but run very fast since it is a very light OS. The only draw back if that you can't run Windows programs on it (since its Chrome OS).The Acer Chromebook 15 is only around $350 and will run all those tasks fine. The screen is 1080p which is good enough for video watching.</p>
<p>The Dell Inspiron 15 7000 series is also a great choice if you want Windows. It is $750 with pretty good specs. The screen is also a 1080p display but is better quality (better colors). The screen is also a touch screen which is surprisingly useful and easy to use.</p>
|
3870
|
2016-06-08T13:08:54.433
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I am looking for a new laptop for my mother. She does not want to spend more than about 800$, which makes my job a little harder, since I am only informed in the higher price ranges.</p>
<p>She will use the laptop for Youtube, Office, Photos, browsing the Web and the likes at home. </p>
<p>I think the most important features are: </p>
<ul>
<li>an SSD </li>
<li>decent 15" screen, meaning good viewing angles, good colors as high of a resolution as that amount of money can buy (it seems to me that the display quality is the number one trade-off of cheaper laptops). </li>
<li>usable trackpad</li>
</ul>
<p>Battery life, raw performance, etc. are less important.</p>
<p>So far, the best laptops I could find was the Acer Travelmate P series and the HP ProBook 450.</p>
<p>Are there other laptops that would be worthwhile to check out? </p>
<p>\Edit: Unfortunately, a used laptop is not an option.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
|
Laptop recommendation 800$ with good touch and feel
|
<p><strong>I am addressing only this part of the question:</strong></p>
<p>And how is PC-to-firewall different from firewall equipment and Windows firewall?</p>
<p>A hardware firewall offloads the work from the general purpose CPU that windows uses to a CPU that is specifically designed for processing large volumes of network traffic fast.</p>
<p>Windows firewall can block individual websites based on IP, but does not do SPI. Also with as much as people encrypt these days SPI can not inspect much of the traffic without SSL terminator.</p>
<p><strong>If you buy software for each PC many of the functions of a hardware solution can be emulated locally, but then each PC has to have faster hardware to accommodate the addition work load. Also nasty root kits maybe able to hide from PC only solutions.</strong></p>
<p>Think about it this way, a hardware solution is like going to a gourmet cake shop and buying a cake. Only the best ingredients were purchased and a master cake chief, or whatever they are called, monitored the whole process. They used all the correct tools, baked and baked it to perfection.</p>
<p>The point is you get to enjoy the cake with no effort on your part.</p>
<p>The software solution is like making the cake yourself. You go to your local store buy all the ingredients took them home. Now you will use whatever tools you have on hand to mix them together and bake. You most likely use inferior ingredients and poor tools and the end result maybe just ok. Then you still have to do the dishes, and throw away the rubbish. </p>
<p>When you are buying a hardware firewall, the vendor has (in an ideal world) hired a security experts to test the firewall and verify it has no known vulnerabilities. Most of them update themselves and require very little hands on once they are properly configured. The vendor assembled all the pieces for you and gave it to you in a convenient package. The will also for a fee have people on staff to help you configure it or configure it for you depending on the contract you sign and the fee you pay.</p>
<p>In a software solution each part of it is like an ingredient that goes into a cake. Each piece has to be individual managed, configured, and updated. <strong>Just like our cake one bad ingredient spoils the whole thing</strong>. The foundation is the OS which has to be kept current. Then you have your basic firewall which again has to be configured and maintained. Then the SPI package, antivirus, anti-malware, and etc.</p>
<p>Each packages has rules that need updating and the software itself has to be kept up to date. However, instead of being sad you made a bad cake, you company is the news for the next major data breach, and now you have to spend 10's of thousand cleaning up the mess.</p>
<p>I am not saying rolling your own solution is impossible or undesirable I am only saying you need to be prepared to do all the work yourself and initially it will definitely cost more money especially in hours of labor. </p>
|
3888
|
2016-06-11T01:58:08.040
|
|networking|firewall|
|
<p>I think that to really monitor our workers' bandwidth consumption and access filters (e.g., website blocking) we need to have firewall equipment because the normal firewall on the computer itself (i.e., Windows firewall) is really not that helpful in our situation.</p>
<p>Do I need to use firewall equipment that will cost us a lot of money or still use the dedicated firewall that the OS provides? Or will the PC-to-firewall conversion will do?</p>
<p>And how is PC-to-firewall different from firewall equipment and Windows firewall?</p>
<p>Edit:</p>
<ul>
<li>My budget will be $3000</li>
<li>and I need a firewall that has 4-port 10/100/1000 Mbps Gigabit
Ethernet switch,</li>
<li>Proven firewall, support for separate virtual networks, and strong
wireless security help protect the network and business assets</li>
<li>High-performance Gigabit Ethernet connections, internally and
externally, plus a built-in wireless-N access point, speeds file
transfers to improve productivity</li>
<li>Stateful packet inspection (SPI) firewall, firewall rules</li>
<li>Static URL blocking, keyword blocking, approved URL</li>
<li>Also monitor the bandwidth consumed by the user of workstation</li>
</ul>
|
Firewall equipment to prevent/monitor bandwidth consumption and set user access filters
|
<p>If you are using this drive for larger network it would be better for you to use the <strong>WD Red Pro</strong> because it suffice the needs of a larger group unlike the <strong>WD Red</strong> it is only design for smaller networks. </p>
<p>But <strong>WD Red</strong> is a reflection of the most extensive NAS partner compatibility- testing list that is available on the market.* That means when you buy a NAS enclosure, you can trust that WD Red will be the most compatible drive available.</p>
<p>Other hand, NAS for Big Business. Increase the efficiency and productivity of your business with WD Red Pro hard drives for your 8 to 16 bay NAS system. WD Red Pro comes equipped with NASware 3.0, which increases system compatibility allowing for seamless integration with your existing network infrastructure. Add value to your business by enabling your employees to quickly share their files and back up folders reliably with WD Red Pro NAS hard drives in your NAS solution.</p>
<p>Edit:</p>
<p>Okay, the <strong>Red Pro will be much durable versus the Red</strong>. Why? Because it has already its feature that it said that it has a slightly <strong>better failure rate</strong> and based on your statement there is the Red Pro has a vibration protection and it is also <strong>Bay Shock Protection and a sensor that detects subtle shock</strong>. As per <strong>heat or power</strong>, you just need a <strong>good cooling system</strong>. You just have to <strong>keep in mind that maintaining proper air flow through your computer case</strong> is the <strong>better way to keep the heat at its lowest</strong>, please be reminded that heat can build up inside to temperatures far hotter than the ambient temperature of your room. You are comfortable, PC may not.</p>
<p>Of course heat is an issue that why I am saying that you are the one should maintain it, no matter how much heat your drive can produce. Provide it with good airflow outside and especially inside.</p>
|
3890
|
2016-06-11T09:10:55.890
|
|hard-disk|data-storage|nas|durability|
|
<p>I'm looking for a <strong>DURABLE AND RELIABLE</strong> hard drive for a NAS and I've come to these bad boys.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-800002.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-800002.pdf</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-800022.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-800022.pdf</a></p>
<p>Advantages of the Pro over the regular:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>7200 RPM vs 5400 RPM;</p></li>
<li><p>RAFF technology for better vibration protection;</p></li>
<li><p>slightly better failure rate;</p></li>
<li><p>128 MB cache vs 64 MB.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Advantages of the regular over the Pro:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>larger temperature operating range: 0-65°C vs 5-60°C (seriously?!);</p></li>
<li><p><strong>since it doesn't have RAFF technology and spins at a lower speed it produces less heat.</strong> </p></li>
</ul>
<p>And this is what drives me nut, on the long run, keeping it on 24/7, will the less heat generated by the Red make it more durable and reliable compared to the Red Pro? I will operate it in a 2 drives rack, so vibrations and performance is not a problem, I can sacrifice all for durability and reliability. Price is not a problem too. I fear heat though... Whoever has experience in this field is welcome, for your knowledge, which one will last longer without failing?</p>
|
WD Red vs Red Pro NAS Hard Drives
|
<p><a href="http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/993/Intel_Core_i5_Mobile_i5-6300HQ_vs_Intel_Core_i7_Mobile_i7-6700HQ.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Benchmark comparison</a></p>
<p>The i5 6300HQ is a good CPU for the programs you use. However, it is definitely fair to say that with the more threads offered by the i7 6700HQ, performance, especially with programs that can utilise multiple threads, will be improved. The advantages of hyper threading are <a href="https://superuser.com/questions/774028/advantages-of-hyper-threading-in-software-development">explained well here</a> (Visual Studio is mentioned).</p>
<p>To summarize the link above:</p>
<p>Hyper threading is useful if you are using your machine for software development (as in your case) because current IDEs are optimised to take advantage of the multiple threads. This speeds up development. Visual Studio is a program that does this.</p>
<p>However, when it comes to executing the program that you are actually coding, hyper threading does not really help unless you are developing an application that takes advantage of multiple threads.</p>
|
3892
|
2016-06-11T14:20:31.667
|
|laptop|processor|development|mobile-workstation|
|
<p>I'm almost ready to buy a Dell XPS 15 laptop for my job as a software engineer.</p>
<p>I work mostly with IntelliJ, Android Studio, Visual Studio, Database Services and some other tools.</p>
<p>I do not do 3D rendering or play games.</p>
<p>So my main question, should I get an i5 CPU or i7?</p>
<p>Do I really need the hyperthreading for the software I use?</p>
<p>My two choices are:<br />
i7-6700HQ vs i5-6300HQ</p>
|
Intel Core i5 or i7 for software development?
|
<p>I've not tried these personally - and as with <em>any</em> headphones, its a good idea to try any headphones for fit (tight headphones cause headaches) and sound quality if possible, but it sounds like considering your fear of EMF, you might want to consider a IR based unit. IR's basically the same technology used in remote controls, is line of sight, and its technology that's been in common use since the 70s. </p>
<p>Based off the models the <a href="http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wireless-home-theater-headphones/" rel="nofollow">wirecutter</a> tried (and sadly, they didn't do a proper review on this, other than saying they weren't really into IR) and the reviews for the model on the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009A6CZ26" rel="nofollow">amazon link</a> the Sony MDR-IF245RK might be a model.</p>
<p>Most folks report that its comfortable, but you may need to check the cables you need. Since its IR, if you pick up a second unit, you can use the second headset with the same transmitter (which is handy for movies).</p>
<p>And while I'm personally skeptical of EMF 'sensitivity', I don't think anyone's ever complained of IR sensitivity yet.</p>
|
3901
|
2016-06-12T09:49:14.763
|
|wireless|bluetooth|headphones|headset|
|
<p>I'm EMF concerned but still need wireless headphones to watch films on my projector without bothering neighbors.</p>
<p>They need to be powerful, robust, highly user friendly and not give EMF-related headache/cancer.</p>
|
Wireless headphones (radio or bluetooth) for watching films that don't give headaches
|
<p><em>Under $250 GPU options as of 6/14/16</em></p>
<p><strong>If you are willing to wait</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Nvidia - GTX 1060 - You mentioned this specifically, so I'm placing
it ahead of the 480X. This card is rumored to be priced between
$200-250 and is expected between late Summer and Fall of this year.
It should perform slightly over the 480X, though everything is
speculation at this point.</li>
<li>AMD - Radeon 480X - These will be released at the end of the month
with a $199 price point. The performance should place this card in
line with a GTX 970 / Radeon 390X. There are numerous benchmarks
available supposedly showing this card, but many of these are purely
synthetic such as 3DMark, so it is possible that they may perform
slightly better or worse in actual games.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>If you need to buy a card today</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Your best option for performance per/$ right now will be used from
eBay - there you can pickup a GTX 970 for under $200 without much
hunting. I have had good luck with hardware on eBay. It may seem like
a gamble but, from experience, I can tell you that eBay will forcibly
refund your money from the seller in the event that they are
dishonest and try to pass off dead hardware (this has happened to me
once).</li>
<li>Alternatively, you can check out some of the larger hardware forums
and look at their Buy/Sell sections (examples: HardOCP forums,
Overclock.net, many others). These sites typically require the seller
to be a user with X posts/rep, meaning that the GPUs for sale are as
described and shipped/packaged safely.</li>
</ul>
|
3919
|
2016-06-13T20:20:05.837
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>My new PC which was bought for gaming has the following parameters:</p>
<ul>
<li>CPU - Intel Core i5 6600k </li>
<li>DRAM - DDR4-2133 8Gb </li>
<li>MB - Asrock z170 pro4s </li>
<li>SSD Sandisk 128Gb SATA 6Gb/s</li>
<li>Single monitor</li>
</ul>
<p>And I have Asus HD 7750 video card which is the weakest part. I need a video card better than this with price lower than $250.</p>
|
What is the best budget NVidia video card for i5 6600k?
|
<p>I would hold off on the GTX 950, it is going to give you almost identical performance to what you are getting now with the GTX 660. For GTA V on your 660, you should be able to get around 60fps with a mix of medium/high settings.</p>
<p>If you want to stick with Nvidia, you may want to wait until later this year (late Summer or Fall) when the GTX 1060 is released. If you're willing try AMD, the Radeon 480x will be available in a few weeks and should have performance similar to a GTX 970.</p>
|
3922
|
2016-06-13T22:27:39.280
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I currently have an EVGA GTX 660 Superclocked card, but just noticed the <a href="http://www.geforce.co.uk/2016-free-to-play-bundle#utm_campaign=2016-free-to-play-bundle&utm_medium=banner&utm_source=gfe-billboards&cid=2016-free-to-play-bundle" rel="nofollow">fancy offer to buy a GTX 950 and receive £70 in-game 'value'</a>.</p>
<p>My 660 can run most of the games I throw at it at highest settings (i.e. 1920x1080 and setting everything else to its highest), without really faltering. Games like Metro: Last Light can struggle sometimes, but considering the card is three years old, I don't mind too much...</p>
<p>However, I need some help working out whether paying for a new card is worth it at the minute. If I buy a new card, I plan to sell the old one to make back some money, so the price point of around £150 is my limit. I've been thinking about the <a href="https://www.overclockers.co.uk/evga-geforce-gtx-950-superclocked-acx-2.0-2048mb-gddr5-pci-express-graphics-card-02g-p4-2956-kr-gx-291-ea.html#free_items" rel="nofollow">EVGA SSC 950</a>, because I'm happy with EVGA (unless there is another card which is <strong>really</strong> worth changing to).</p>
<p>Is the 950 a worthy upgrade after running this one for three years? Are there any cards that would be better? (I'd prefer to stay with nVidia, but I'm open to suggestions). I mean, the card runs fine at the minute and probably will for a few more years to come, but perhaps it's good to keep up with the newer tech?</p>
<p>FYI, the games I currently play or plan to play in the near future are:</p>
<ul>
<li>World of Tanks</li>
<li>War Thunder</li>
<li>SM's Civilisation 5</li>
<li>Metro: Last Light</li>
<li>GTA V (planned)</li>
<li>Rust (planned) </li>
</ul>
<p>I can't imagine the 660 would be <em>too</em> happy with GTA V at near-highest settings though? I don't mind losing some quality for FPS, but visuals are quite important! </p>
<p>Thanks! :)</p>
|
Upgrading from EVGA GTX 660 to EVGA GTX 950 - worth it?
|
<p>Since this has been bumped to the front page, I'd like to add a current generation laptop for anyone <em>currently</em> looking for a laptop. I'm recommending the</p>
<h2>Gigabyte AERO 14 (<a href="http://www.austin.net.au/gigabyte-aero14w-1060-bk7-14-gaming-notebook.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Newest version, A$2699</a>)</h2>
<p>While it's weight is 1.89 kg, which is slightly above the OP requirements, it is significantly lighter than many other laptops with comparable hardware, for example, the <a href="http://www.dell.com/au/p/alienware-13-laptop/pd?oc=z5193a4au&model_id=alienware-13-laptop" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Alienware 13</a>, which weighs 2.6 kg.</p>
<p>The display is a QHD IPS panel, though it's somewhat dim, measured at less than 300 cd/m^2 by <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?tl=EN&sl=DE&hl=EN&js=y&prev=hp&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hardwareluxx.de%2Findex.php%2Fartikel%2Fhardware%2Fnotebooks%2F41263-kompakter-alleskoenner-mit-viel-ausdauer-das-gigabyte-aero-14-im-test.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this review</a>, because it's a matte (non-reflective) panel, it should be usable outdoors.</p>
<p>The CPU is the <strong>i7 7700HQ (2.2 GHz, 2.8 Turbo)</strong>, the newest generation high performance quad core. While not top of the line, the only faster CPUs are the same, with only a few hundred MHz extra clock speed.</p>
<p>The base model also comes with <strong>16 GB DDR4 2400</strong>, a <strong>512 GB M.2 SSD</strong> and the <strong>GTX 1060 GPU (1280 CUDA cores, 6 GB VRAM)</strong>, which is a desktop class GPU: Even at maximum detail settings and native resolution, it should be able to maintain more than 30 FPS for today's AAA games.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, there is <strong>no Ethernet</strong> port, so the laptop relies on 802.11 ac WiFi, though you could use a USB to LAN adaptor. There are <strong>three USB 3.0 (Type A) and one USB 3.1 (type C)</strong> ports, as well as HDMI 2.0, mini-DP, Headphone-out jack and a SD card reader. I don't believe it comes with an optical drive</p>
<p>The grey version linked looks fairly standard and minimalist, and while it is preinstalled with Windows 10, Windows 7 should be supported</p>
|
3925
|
2016-06-14T12:29:47.217
|
|laptop|
|
<p>Broadly speaking I am looking for a very mobile fully featured desktop replacement laptop. </p>
<p>I currently have Sony Vaio VPCZ138GG (13 inch Full HD screen, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, GeForce GT 330M, DVD Drive, Win 7 Pro, 3hr battery) purchased in 2010.<br>
I have been overall very happy with the purchase in terms of specs, weight, and features. IMO everything aged fairly well (except GFX, as you would expect).</p>
<p>Over the past few years I have been keeping an eye out on a replacement option but have found nothing that ticks all the boxes and today I accidentally dropped my laptop and broke the screen so a replacement is needed.</p>
<p>Usage pattern:<br>
The laptop goes where I go and is used for database and front end development during the day and occasional gaming session in the evening.</p>
<p>Must have features:</p>
<ul>
<li>Display: Full HD or higher, that is useable in sunlight</li>
<li>CPU: "powerful" I5 / I7 (ideally not ULV)</li>
<li>RAM: 8GB - 16GB</li>
<li>HDD: 512GB SSD</li>
<li>Weight: under 1.8kg (with battery)</li>
<li>Dedicated GFX: something that would manage most games on medium settings </li>
<li>Ports: 3 x USB, mic, headphone, HDMI, Ethernet (RJ-45), (the more the better)</li>
<li>Support for 2 or more external monitors.</li>
<li>Build / Finish: looking for a high quality "professional" / "business" look.</li>
<li>Ability to run Windows (7 Pro ideally)</li>
</ul>
<p>Optional (in order of priority): </p>
<ol>
<li>Built in mobile internet (keep in mind that it has to work in Australia) </li>
<li>Replaceable battery </li>
<li>2 in 1 mode (similar to Lenovo Yoga) where it can be converted into a tablet. </li>
<li>Availability of a Docking station </li>
<li>Light weight Power Brick </li>
<li>Long battery life</li>
<li>Built in optical drive </li>
<li>Built in card reader</li>
</ol>
<p>Price: unlimited (ball park figure: up to around 4,500AUD ~ 3,500US)</p>
<p>I have investigated Clevo (with <a href="http://www.metabox.com.au/store/b179/Metabox-Prime-P640RE-Laptop" rel="nofollow">Metabox</a> budge) and while specs are fantastic the weight and "look" are a bit underwhelming. </p>
<p>Can someone recommend a laptop that fits most of the specs?</p>
|
Laptop 13 - 14inch very mobile fully featured desktop replacement
|
<p>One of the few places where you can't go wrong with dell is their monitors. I don't own this <em>specific</em> model, but I can attest to them having excellent build quality</p>
<p>The <a href="http://www1.euro.dell.com/content/products/productdetails.aspx/dell-u2417h-monitor?c=uk&cs=ukdhs1&l=en&s=dhs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell 2417H</a> is probably what you should be looking at, no pun intended. Dell lists them at GBP 245 on their website (with a discount), but you probably can comparison shop.</p>
<p>These are <em>really</em> small bezels, IPS (and which ensures awesome viewing angles and great colour quality). They're 1080p. </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fnZb6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fnZb6.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>It does HDMI and DP only (but there's simple converters for DVI, or even VGA should the need arise).</p>
<p>Dell probably makes the best monitor stands on the market. They sell a dual monitor stand if that's what floats your boat. The standard stands give you height, tilt, <em>and</em> rotation adjustments, though this seems a new design. If you want to vesa mount them, they're compatible with the 100mm standard. </p>
<p>I'm not bothering to list out which requirements of yours they meet, cause they meet <em>all</em> of them. Right down to the lack of speakers. These are probably the monitors you want</p>
|
3934
|
2016-06-15T11:52:28.123
|
|monitors|multiple-monitors|
|
<p>I'm considering updating my monitor setup to a quad display workstation sometime soon, but I'm having trouble finding a monitor that fits my list of requirements...prepare yourself (in no particular order):</p>
<ul>
<li>22"-24" (not against bigger...)</li>
<li>16:9 (or wider)</li>
<li>1080p (don't want 4K, it's just too expensive!)</li>
<li>Rotating stand (I want the screens to be able to be either portrait or landscape)</li>
<li>VGA, HDMI, DVI (though I guess I could skimp on one of them, most likely VGA)</li>
<li>thin black/no bezel (again, would be really great, but if it's not possible it's not possible...)</li>
<li>No speakers</li>
<li>Non gaming</li>
<li>Wide viewing angles</li>
</ul>
<p>These monitors will be used solely as a productivity boost. No gaming at all, so I don't need any gaming related monitor features. They will be used for some graphics work, but nothing serious so maximum colour quality isn't a must, just something "decent".</p>
<p>I'm not too bothered about them having mounting plate points, but I suppose it would be a nice bonus. If they did have them I would probably put together a DIY stand at some point, but for now I definitely want them to all stand and rotate independently.</p>
<p>After all that, I'm not really sure where to cap the cost. The lower the cost the better. I'll judge how realistic this ideal setup is when I know how much it would cost me!</p>
<p>Any suggestions? I'm in the UK, so I'd prefer local options to having to order stuff from abroad. (Bonus points if you can supply a purchase link/cost.)</p>
|
Very Specific (Non-Gaming) Quad Monitor Setup Recommendations
|
<p>It does not look like there are any companies currently making a USB-to-wifi print server that supports ESC/P. Viewsonic made one years ago (model WPS-100), but it only supported wireless G and its configuration software was made for Windows XP. In other words, even if you could track one of these down, it would likely have compatibility issues.</p>
<p>Alternatively, if you have a printer with ethernet access, you can get a wireless access point and set it to bridge mode. After this access point is configured in bridge mode you'll be able to plug an ethernet cable between your printer and the access point. At this point your printer should be available on your wireless network.</p>
|
3951
|
2016-06-16T19:39:28.633
|
|usb|wifi|server|ethernet|printer|
|
<p>I've tried to convert my USB ESC/POS printer to a network printer. I have tried print servers such as the TL-WPS510U, but it only supports PS and PCL. Is there a print server that supports ESC/POS?</p>
<p>If not, is there anyway that I could convert my USB to network printer?</p>
<p>Alternatively, I could purchase Ethernet printer. <del>Is there a way to convert Ethernet printer to WiFi printer?</del> Can anyone recommend hardware that is available to allow Ethernet printer to function as a WiFi printer?</p>
|
Convert USB to WiFi Printer
|
<p>The best notebook I could find in this price-range with your requirements is probably the <strong>Lenovo 700Y (17-inch) series</strong>. While I don't own, it seems to fit your requirements quite well, as a medium- to high-end gamer laptop.<br>
<a href="http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/y700-series/y700-17-inch/" rel="nofollow">Lenovo</a>; <a href="http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-Ideapad-Y700-17ISK-80Q0-Notebook-Review.156808.0.html" rel="nofollow">NotebookCheck</a> </p>
<hr>
<p>Now let's go through the list of your requirements, shall we?</p>
<blockquote>
<p>As I said, an SSD is a must. [...], so we'll say atleast 250 GB.
Obviously, more would be nice, though it's not necessary.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>According to Lenovo's website there are options for 256GB or 512GB SSD and for 1TB HDD with 128GB SSD, so you're covered here.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>A 6th-gen intel quad-core CPU. I'd like an I7 or higher, but I could
settle for an i5, provided it was still new, quad-core, and fairly
powerful.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The Y700 series only runs 45W Intel Core i-s, which are all (powerful) quad-core CPUs based on Skylake architecture. More concretely chances are you will be getting in <a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/88967/Intel-Core-i7-6700HQ-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_50-GHz" rel="nofollow">i7-6700HQ</a> or an <a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/88959/Intel-Core-i5-6300HQ-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_20-GHz" rel="nofollow">i5-6300HQ</a> (rarer).</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I don't do anything demanding on the GPU, so as long as I can plug an
external 1080p monitor into it, that's good enough for me. Bonus
points if I can plug a second one in. (Though I might need a docking
station at that point)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>You can at least plug-in one monitor via <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI" rel="nofollow">HDMI</a> and can maybe connect a second via wireless <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miracast" rel="nofollow">Miracast</a>, which the laptop <em>should</em> support.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I don't need an insane amount of RAM. [...] So 8
GB would probably be enough. (Although I'm certainly not against
having more)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The Y700 series has at least 8GB of RAM and you can also find models with 16GB.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>This probably goes without saying, but it should have an 1/8th inch
headphone output and several USB 3 outputs.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>It has that headphone output and two USB-3.0 ports and one USB-2.0 port. You may want to consider buying an USB-3.0 hub if you need more. (These numbers are fairly common for laptops nowadays sadly). The HW recommendation for this can be found <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/345/273">here</a>.</p>
<hr>
<p>Now for your preferences:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Support for a docking station, if I want to upgrade peripherals down
the road.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Sadly there seems to be no proprietary connector for this model, however standard USB 3.0 docking stations probably can do the trick here.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>[...]An
onboard ethernet cable would be really really nice. I could use an
adaptor or a docking station, but using onboard ethernet would be a
lot more convenient.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Again, sadly it looks like Ethernet on the laptop seems to be less of a thing nowadays than it used to be (due to the improved WLAN technology), but you can still get yourself a small little USB-3.0-Ethernet connector (Anker also has those).</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I'm not really a laptop connisuier, so there are a lot of things that
I either don't really care about or don't know how to quantifiy. For
example, I have no idea what a good-battery life would be. I'd like a
good battery-life, but I don't commute, or have any reason to need a
really good one. I also couldn't tell a good one from a bad one.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Lenovo claims 4-5 hours for this one, but chances are you'll have to live with 2-3 hours there if you actually do stuff with it.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I'm also not super picky when it comes to things like screen size or
weight. (Also don't know how to quantify) I don't want something on
either extreme (Such as a chromebook or a giant luggable). A 1080p
display (or higher if I can get it at this price) would be preferred.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There are variants of the Y700 series for 15" and for 17" (this answer is about the 17" ones), but at least the 17" ones all do feature 1080p screens.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I will be able to use the laptop on my own time, so a gpu (or
integrated graphics) strong enough for very light gaming would be
nice. I already have a computer that can handle pretty much any game,
so this is certainly not a requirement.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The Y700s are originally intended as gamer laptops, so this should be not so much of a problem.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Good linux support would also be a plus.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I don't think it has extraordinary Linux support, but it should do the job.</p>
<hr>
<p>Finally for your neutral points:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>While looking around on my own, I found that lot's of newer laptops in
this price range have touchscreens. I am almost completely neutral on
a touchscreen. If it could be cheaper without, I'd go with the cheaper
one. If they're the same price, I guess I'd go for the touchscreen. I
probably wouldn't end up using it very much though.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The Y700 series does not feature touch-screens, as a gaming laptop series.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I don't really care which version of windows it comes with. It would
be nice if it comes with 7 already installed, but if it comes with 8
or 10, I'll just reinstall 7 anyway. (I already have a license and a
CD and all that)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>It comes with Windows 10 64-bit pre-installed.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I don't really care about an optical drive (or lack thereof)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I couldn't exactly tell, but at least some models don't feature optical drives.</p>
|
3997
|
2016-06-21T19:54:09.613
|
|laptop|development|
|
<p>My company is going to buy a work laptop for me (since I've been using my own for a while), and they are going to let me select it. I don't know exactly what my price-range is, since they wouldn't actually give me a hard-limit when I asked. However, they implied that they would be willing to spend somewhere in the range of $1,000 USD. I will probably select some slightly cheaper and some slightly more expensive ones and let them pick between these.</p>
<p>This laptop will primarily be used for firmware and software development and <a href="https://www.beckhoff.com/english.asp?twincat/default.htm" rel="noreferrer">TwinCAT</a>, as well as general day-to-day office stuff. (Excel, word, emails, etc.) Sometimes I will compile very large projects, or have multiple instances of Visual Studio or a similar IDE open at a time (which isn't all that much, given Visual Studio's <a href="https://www.visualstudio.com/en-us/downloads/visual-studio-2015-system-requirements-vs.aspx#30" rel="noreferrer">system requirements</a>). Beyond that, I don't do anything particularly demanding. I'd like it to boot quickly, so an SSD is a must.</p>
<h1>Requirements</h1>
<ul>
<li><p>As I said, an SSD is a must. My current computer has only 220 GB, and I still have plenty of space left, so we'll say atleast 250 GB. Obviously, more would be nice, though it's not necessary.</p>
</li>
<li><p>A 6th-gen intel quad-core CPU. I'd like an I7 or higher, but I could settle for an I5, provided it was still new, quad-core, and fairly powerful.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I don't do anything demanding on the GPU, so as long as I can plug an external 1080p monitor into it, that's good enough for me. Bonus points if I can plug a second one in. (Though I might need a docking station at that point)</p>
</li>
<li><p>I don't need an insane amount of RAM. As long as I can have Visual Studio x2, Google Chrome, Vim, and Spotify open at the same time. So 8 GB would probably be enough. (Although I'm certainly not against having more)</p>
</li>
<li><p>This probably goes without saying, but it should have an 1/8th inch headphone output and several USB 3 outputs. (I can't imagine any modern laptop <em>not</em> having these, but it never hurts to be specific)</p>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Preferences</h1>
<ul>
<li><p>Support for a docking station, if I want to upgrade peripherals down the road.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I develop for ethernet a lot (EtherCAT, modbus/tcp, dhcp, etc.), so an onboard ethernet cable would be really really nice. I <em>could</em> use an adaptor or a docking station, but using onboard ethernet would be a lot more convenient.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I'm not really a laptop connisuier, so there are a lot of things that I either don't really care about or don't know how to quantifiy. For example, I have no idea what a good-battery life would be. I'd <em>like</em> a good battery-life, but I don't commute, or have any reason to need a really good one. I also couldn't tell a good one from a bad one.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I'm also not super picky when it comes to things like screen size or weight. (Also don't know how to quantify) I don't want something on either extreme (Such as a chromebook or a giant luggable). A 1080p display (or higher if I can get it at this price) would be preferred.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I will be able to use the laptop on my own time, so a gpu (or integrated graphics) strong enough for <em>very</em> light gaming would be nice. I already have a computer that can handle pretty much any game, so this is certainly not a requirement. Good linux support would also be a plus.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<h1>Neutral</h1>
<ul>
<li><p>While looking around on my own, I found that lot's of newer laptops in this price range have touchscreens. I am almost completely neutral on a touchscreen. If it could be cheaper without, I'd go with the cheaper one. If they're the same price, I guess I'd go for the touchscreen. I probably wouldn't end up using it very much though.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I don't really care which version of windows it comes with. It would be nice if it comes with 7 already installed, but if it comes with 8 or 10, I'll just reinstall 7 anyway. (I already have a license and a CD and all that)</p>
</li>
<li><p>I don't have any strong brand preferences.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I don't really care about an optical drive (or lack thereof)</p>
</li>
</ul>
|
New work laptop for firmware development
|
<p>Gaming generally benefits from faster single core but VM benefits from multiple cores. If you are planning to run less than 4 ish VMs then the i5 6500K will be a better choice (of course you will have to change your motherboard as well).</p>
<p>That SSD is cheap, a little too cheap. Go with some reputable brand to get performance and quality (such as Samsung, AData, Patriot, Sandisk, etc.). You could also take a look at having a smaller SSD for boot and a hard drive for your games and other files. </p>
<p>Your motherboard comes with an ethernet port so unless you are going to use multiple IPs or aggregate the connection you don't need the ethernet card. Your motherboard is a mATX motherboard, which is smaller than the regular ATX size. This fits in your case but you lose the extra PCIe ports you could get from an ATX board.</p>
<p>You might also want to take a look at a CPU cooler like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (bare minimum) because the CPU runs quite hot and the stock cooler isn't that great.</p>
<p>Everything else looks fine, GPU is powerful enough and PSU delivers enough wattage.</p>
|
4020
|
2016-06-24T17:04:47.860
|
|gaming|desktop|web-development|
|
<p>I have pretty much no experience or knowledge about modern hardware, other than the past couple hours I've spent researching it.</p>
<p>I built a rig online here:
<a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/list/BwmgLD" rel="nofollow">http://pcpartpicker.com/list/BwmgLD</a></p>
<p>I was hoping for any advice/recommendations. Anything that I'm paying too much for, that I wouldn't notice a difference with a cheaper option. Anything that I'm potentially bottlenecking my setup by going too cheap. Any brand that I chose that is know for being unreliable. Etc.</p>
<p>There are a couple notes on compatibility shown, it seems like they wouldn't be problems for me but if you think it will let me know.</p>
<p>I especially know nothing about what makes a case good or bad, and what is necessary with the power supply.</p>
<p>I have never put a rig together before, I do have experience soldering from my EE degree. I don't even know if you have to solder stuff together, but if the case influences the ease of assembly let me know.</p>
<p>I already have a ergodox keyboard. I have heard a gaming mouse isn't really any better than a normal one. And I plan to have a triple monitor set up eventually.</p>
<p>I prefer to develop on linux, but I figured for gaming I'll need to get windows and maybe run linux on a vm.</p>
<p>The price is about where I'd like it, maybe a bit cheaper if possible. But working on this computer is going to be my livelihood so I can spend some more if necessary.</p>
<p>And just any general advice for someone trying to build a rig for the first time would be great.</p>
|
Advice on building a gaming/web development rig
|
<p>As far as raw speed is concerned, the <strong>Samsung EVO</strong> is the way to go. The drives themselves are very reliable and have the faster <strong>read (540mb/s)</strong> and <strong>write (520mb/s)</strong> speeds. </p>
<p>I myself have a <strong>Samsung EVO</strong> and it works flawlessly in my <strong>PC</strong>. In my <strong>PS4</strong>... well I haven't tried it in there. </p>
<p>Some people claim its a <strong>bad idea</strong>, and that you won't see any difference in speed with the use of an <strong>SSD</strong> due to hardware limitations of the PS4; they claim that an <strong>SSHD</strong> is a better call for this sort of upgrade. You can read about that <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/2d2z85/has_anyone_used_the_new_samsung_850_pro_ssd_with/" rel="nofollow">here</a>. </p>
<p>On the other hand, this gentlemen <a href="http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2016-is-it-worth-upgrading-your-ps4-with-an-ssd" rel="nofollow">here</a> saw a <strong>large difference</strong> in speed with <em>some games</em> (check out the tables he created with load time comparisons). </p>
<p>My advice would be: if you see value in the upgrade to an SSD based on the sources I've provided, go for it. </p>
<p>If you were expecting an SSD to cut your load times in half across the board, either temper your expectations, or save some money and get yourself an SSHD. </p>
|
4022
|
2016-06-24T18:25:01.053
|
|gaming|ssd|video-game-console|
|
<p>I'm converting my Playstation 4 to a SSD and I'm unsure which drive would be best for this. I don't have alot of knowledge about these drives and I couldn't find any reviews about them. Essentially, I'm looking for faster game boots and not really worried about storage. The 2 that I'm debating between are as follows:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=179_1229_1088&item_id=080111" rel="nofollow">http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=179_1229_1088&item_id=080111</a></p>
<p>OR</p>
<p><a href="http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=179_1229_1088&item_id=094585" rel="nofollow">http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=179_1229_1088&item_id=094585</a></p>
<p>Some explanation as to which would be best is much appreciated.</p>
<p>TYIA </p>
|
Solid State Drive for PS4
|
<p>Since you have 2 x GTX 670 in SLI, getting a GTX 1070 will not yield much performance benefits. Running SLI is never as good as running a faster, more expensive single card so I would recommend you to get a GTX 1080 (should be enough for what you are doing) and SLI it later if for some reason it is not powerful enough.</p>
|
4027
|
2016-06-25T12:29:55.247
|
|graphics-cards|gaming|desktop|pc|
|
<p>I recently got a new monitor the <a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/ROG-SWIFT-PG279Q/" rel="nofollow">Asus ROG Swift PG279Q</a>: 1440p, 144hz, with g-sync.</p>
<p>I currently have i7-3770k, 32gb ram, with 2x GTX 670 powering it.</p>
<p>My question is what gpu would be a good fit for this monitor. I am a little unclear on how g-sync effects the requirements. Should I be trying to get my fps 120+?
I am getting ready to get a new gpu but I want to make sure I get one that does not leave me under-powered to take advantage of what my monitor offers.</p>
<p>I have been a fan of Geforce for a while and with the 1080/1070 it is a choice between to two unless there would be a big reason I should wait for a 1080ti. From the benchmarks on YouTube of The Witcher 3, it seems people get around ~60fps at 1440p with everything maxed. While Ultra is not necessary I would like to be able to do a mix of high/ultra level settings.</p>
<p>I am currently playing The Witcher 3: Blood and Wine and will be getting Dues EX: Mankind Divided when it is released, after those I will probably look into either Fall Out 4 or Rise of the Tomb Raider.</p>
<p>I would rather not spend $800+ on a gpu but if it will save me money a year later, I would rather buy 1 gpu then have to another for SLI 6-12 months later.</p>
|
GPU for Asus ROG Swift PG279Q (1440p)
|
<p>A Newegg tech advisor noted that Asus and Lenovo case designs tend to be pretty quiet. Rather than build I decided this time to buy a Lenovo 300-20ish on sale, which was actually cheaper than building an equivalent system. Been a while since I've bought a finished desktop, but it's a really neat little tower, and it's quieter than any other computers I use.</p>
<p>As <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4039/84">Peter noted</a>, keys to silence are, foremost, to keep fans off or slow. This system is built around a 65W CPU, and I haven't (yet) put a power-hungry GPU in there (I realized I can run 4k off the MB's HDMI). So the PSU and CPU fans aren't going crazy, I put <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4078/84">a quiet spinning disk</a> inside along with the primary SSD, and it's just <em>quiet</em> all the time! (Except, of course, when I'm using the optical drive.)</p>
|
4032
|
2016-06-25T21:51:45.647
|
|desktop|motherboard|pc|case|cooling|
|
<p>My primary desktop PC is due for a refresh.</p>
<p>I have always built my own, but I might have reached the point where it's worth the extra ~$100 to buy a pre-built machine. The biggest reason I haven't in the past is that I like my machines to run quiet – not silent, just with no rattles or high-speed fans. I ran my latest small tower with the side panel removed at all times.</p>
<p>I'm not an overclocker or gamer. What I had in mind was something like the following:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>i7-6700</strong> (seems to be the sweet spot for price-power-performance right now)</li>
<li>16GB RAM expandable to 32GB</li>
<li>80+ PSU</li>
<li>My current monitors are DVI, but I <em>eventually</em> want DP so that I can run 4k monitors. (I don't know if this is integrated in any MBs. If not then just a slot for a suitable graphics card when I decide to upgrade that side of things.)</li>
</ul>
<p>Whatever I get I'll clean build O/S onto a SSD, and run a 7200rpm secondary drive for data.</p>
<p><strong>Given the "quiet" objective, and given that I can run the case wide open as an alternative to pricey quiet cooling systems, which machine should I buy?</strong> (Or should I just build again?)</p>
|
Quiet desktop PC refresh
|
<p>Most modern wifi adaptors should work with little issues. My <em>goto</em> spare 'it will certainly work' wifi adaptor's a generic no brand 802.11 n nano adaptor - a few dozen companies make em. They universally use the same, standard ralink chipset.</p>
<p>This is the <a href="http://www.dx.com/p/dx-original-ultra-mini-usb-2-0-802-11n-b-g-150mbps-wi-fi-wlan-wireless-network-adapter-black-252716" rel="nofollow">specific one I have</a>, and if you want a branded one Edimax's riff on the product is <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003MTTJOY" rel="nofollow">certain to work</a>. Plug it in, reboot and it should be detected.</p>
<p>They work with most common linux distros, there's support in kernel for ubuntu and fedora at the very least. They're also <em>crazy</em> cheap</p>
<p><em>However</em> these only support the 'last gen' 802.11n standard, at the lowest speed possible. They also only support the more common 2.4 ghz, which is sometimes congested.</p>
<p>It will <em>certainly</em> work with minimal configuration.</p>
|
4034
|
2016-06-26T00:33:40.993
|
|linux|networking|ubuntu|
|
<p>I have a ubuntu desktop that has always connected to the network via ethernet. It's simple - <code>eth0</code> is there in <code>ifconfig</code>, I run <code>dhclient eth0</code>, and I'm good to go. It's been this way for ages. </p>
<p>Due to wiring constraints, I need to switch over to using wifi. There is a <em>lot</em> of information via google, wikipedia, et al about what is possible, which chipsets are supported, which drivers support which chipsets, and tables showing a cross-section of all of that. However, today I'm looking for a recommendation of "easiest thing to plug into your computer, and have wifi0 (or whatever) in ifconfig".</p>
<p>I don't mind if it's PCI or USB - I was hoping for someone to tell me "Yeah, just buy this thing, plug it in, and use this program to find the AP and connect. I did it last week, and it was simple.". Sorry for such a rudimentary question - I've been clinging to the ethernet cable as long as I could. I knew this day would come.</p>
<p>Bonus points for it working when installing ubuntu (or any linux distro) in the installer.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
|
What do I need to look at to when getting a wifi adaptor to get my ubuntu desktop on wifi?
|
<p>While purchasing two cards may <strong>seem gnarly</strong>, it really <strong>wouldn't be better</strong> than a <strong>single 1080</strong>. </p>
<p>First, you won't have to fuss around with getting <strong>SLI</strong> to work properly. Not that its a massive pain, but it is a pain.</p>
<p>Second, some games <strong>do not even support SLI properly</strong>. Now this may <strong>not happen often</strong>, but imagine your shock when your $1000+ GPU setup won't play nice with certain games. (Don't get me wrong, I know <em>most</em> games support SLI, but this doesn't change the fact that there <strong>are some compatibility issues</strong> with certain games...) </p>
<p>Third, <strong>power consumption</strong>. It may not be a huge issue, but its another issue to stack on-top of the other issues that come with running two cards. (~150 watts per 970, vs ~250 for a single 1080)</p>
<p>Fourth, <strong>resale value</strong>. Not that you'll want to sell, but this is still something to think about. </p>
<p>Fifth, as far as numbers go, you're looking at about <strong>20 percent more performance</strong> out of the 1080 for less work and you <strong>don't have to worry</strong> about all of <strong>issues</strong> that I've mentioned. </p>
<p>...Now say... you want to run two <strong><em>980 TI's in SLI</em></strong>... I'd have to reconsider my answer entirely at that point! </p>
<p>But if you want one takeaway: </p>
<p><strong><em>Two 970's running in SLI are not better than one 1080.</em></strong> </p>
|
4058
|
2016-06-29T11:08:50.403
|
|graphics-cards|pc|
|
<p>I want to build a new PC for myself and have a question about my graphics-card.</p>
<p>I don't know which to buy:
1x Asus ROG Nvidia GTX 1080
2x MSI Nvidia GTX 970 (+1x SLI-Bridge)</p>
<p>What would be most effective and also the best for the future, because I want to use this computer for a longer time (because I dont want to spend so much money every 2 years)</p>
<p>Please explain your statement (why you think XY is better then AB)</p>
|
1x GTX 1080 or 2x GTX 970
|
<p>Finally LG will introduce the <a href="http://www.lgnewsroom.com/2016/12/lgs-newest-most-exciting-4k-hdr-monitors-coming-to-ces-2017/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">32UD99</a> at CES 2017. LG states that it will fully support teh HDR10 standard. It also has 4K so it seems to meet the requirements of my question.</p>
<p>I'm still leaving the answer of INV3NT3D as accepted for now because full specification isn't out yet. Also now one knows if it'll be recommendable.</p>
|
4065
|
2016-06-30T09:37:28.207
|
|gaming|monitors|4k|
|
<p>With the new graphics card generation our PCs should be prepared for 4k gaming with HDR.</p>
<p>But what about monitors? Are there any available that you can recommend? I've been searching and couldn't find a single one that explicitly supports HDR and has Display Port 1.4.</p>
<p>Additional question if it's not off-topic: What are the features I have to look for that indicate that a monitor supports 4k HDR? Maybe I've just been searching under the wrong assumptions.</p>
|
Monitor for HDR 4k Gaming
|
<p>To answer your question about recording, recent NVidia cards have a feature called ShadowPlay that can record games using a chip in the card independently of the CPU and the rest of the GPU, meaning next to no performance impact on games and computer usage. ShadowPlay is capable of both recording and streaming in 1080P at 60 FPS.</p>
<p>The limiting factor for recording on a 970 is more likely to be your HDD or SSD. It's strongly recommended to record to a second HDD, apart from the disk where Windows and the game is installed, to avoid the disk from being overloaded.</p>
<p>However, in response to whether the 970 is good enough; the GTX 1060 will be released soon (sources say the 14th of July) which will most likely offer performance improvements over the 970. I strongly recommend waiting until then before making a decision and buying the 970.</p>
<p>As to whether the 970 is powerful enough to run the latest games at ultra settings, that's a matter of the game. Games like The Witcher 3 are very graphically intensive and can't be run with high FPS on the 970. </p>
<p>Without knowing the specific games you're interested in playing, it's best to look up user experiences for the card and game you're interested in.</p>
<p>Edit: <a href="http://videocardz.com/61753/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1060-specifications-leaked-faster-than-rx-480" rel="nofollow">This article says the GTX 1060 will rival the performance of a 980</a>, so again, I strongly recommend waiting.</p>
|
4080
|
2016-07-02T00:15:44.333
|
|gaming|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I have a laptop with gtx960m and i7-3610qm(6M Cache, up to 3.30 GHz). I can play with it at 720p30 on medium settings and can't record my games (that's the most important point) more than 480p30.</p>
<p>I'm looking for a build with which i can play on 1080p60 on average <strong>while recording</strong> my games at the same definition/frame rate.</p>
<p>I prefer to not use sli, and I'm going to buy a i7-4790k (8M Cache, up to 4.40 GHz).</p>
<p>My requirements for a graphics card are:</p>
<ol>
<li>able to render 1080p60 in the latest games in ultra settings</li>
<li>able to render 1080p60 in last games while recording</li>
</ol>
<p>I have been looking at the gtx970, but I am not sure if it fits the requirements. </p>
|
GTX 970 and i7 4790k for 1080p60 while recording
|
<p><a href="https://www.iclever.com/products/BK05-Tri-Folding-Bluetooth-Keyboard" rel="nofollow noreferrer">iClever BK05</a> might fit the bill. It does have Bluetooth, but is also able to work via USB.</p>
|
4082
|
2016-07-02T12:18:03.360
|
|keyboards|
|
<p>I want to buy a <strong>wired keyboard</strong> to travel with, so I want a small sized one. I request for advices, please.</p>
<p><strong>Requirements</strong>: </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>No wireless</strong> keyboards in any manner (no bluetooth, infrared, radio... etc). This is a question about wired keyboards. </li>
<li><strong>Foldable</strong> keyboards accepted.</li>
<li>USB and PS2 <strong>connectors</strong> accepted. Both would be fine.</li>
<li>No need for <strong>mouse</strong>: it will increase the size of the keyboard, and this question is about <strong>small</strong> keyboards.</li>
<li>It is logical that there will be some switch/keycap quality sacrificing, but not-too-bad <strong>switch/keycap quality</strong> would be preferred.</li>
<li><strong>Thumb</strong> keyboards accepted.</li>
</ul>
|
Searching for small, wired keyboard
|
<p>There are several things to consider when purchasing a PSU, but here are the most important:</p>
<ul>
<li>Does it have enough wattage to support my components and any upgrades I might want in the future?</li>
<li>Is it made by a reliable company and is it made with quality components?</li>
<li>What is its power efficiency? (How effectively it converts the power from your outlet)</li>
<li>Does it have enough cables or sockets to support any future upgrades I might want?</li>
</ul>
<p>There are obviously aesthetic requirements as well, like whether it's modular, whether the color will match your build, and sometimes special lighting.</p>
<p>That said, picking a PSU is one of the easiest components to choose. Here's the one I went with on my recent build, with a 6700k and a 1070: <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00K85X23O" rel="nofollow">EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B1 80+ BRONZE, 750W</a>. This unit has more wattage than I currently need but it leaves room for upgrades in the future.</p>
<p>EVGA is a reputable brand, this unit has great reviews, and it's relatively cheap. My only complaint with it is the mesh surrounding the cables don't completely block the colors of the cables inside, but that's not noticeable once it's in the case. </p>
<p>If money isn't a concern, go with something fully modular with lots of plugs, and higher power efficiency, like this: <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00IKDETOC" rel="nofollow">EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 80+ GOLD</a>. </p>
|
4083
|
2016-07-02T17:50:09.490
|
|desktop|
|
<p>I am planning to assemble a desktop and was looking to purchase a PSU for my system.</p>
<p><strong>My Config</strong></p>
<p><strong>i7 6700k</strong><br>
<strong>Asus Z170-P</strong> - LGA1151 -<a href="http://goo.gl/5QMajz" rel="nofollow">http://goo.gl/5QMajz</a><br>
<strong>Cooler Master 212x</strong> -<a href="http://goo.gl/kAPM3D" rel="nofollow">http://goo.gl/kAPM3D</a><br>
<strong>GTX 1070</strong><br>
<strong>1 tb HDD 7200 rpm</strong><br>
<strong>5 120mm LED fans</strong><br>
<strong>16 GB DDR4 RAM (2100 mhz)</strong></p>
<p><strong>EDIT</strong><br>
I would not be upgrading the system for a while and I would not buy any additional graphics card to be used in an SLI way. </p>
<p>Would <strong>Corsair 650w</strong> - <a href="http://goo.gl/jnI6BS" rel="nofollow">http://goo.gl/jnI6BS</a> be an adequate?</p>
<p>My budget is less than INR 5000.</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
|
Recommend a PSU
|
<p>I have extensive experience with Blender and cycles.</p>
<p>The 750Ti is about 20% faster than your CPU.
The 950 is about 100% faster than your CPU. (i.e. double the performance)</p>
<p>But currently GPUs render fur a lot slower than CPU, so take that into account if you work with a lot of fur.</p>
<p>With the CPU, you get the advantage of having access to all your system RAM (8GB, 16GB, etc). Whereas if you render with a 2GB GPU, it will not render a complex scene that requires more than 2GB RAM.</p>
<p>I would consider the 950, but not the 750Ti.</p>
<p>Source: <a href="http://blenchmark.com/gpu-benchmarks" rel="nofollow">GPU Benchmark</a>, <a href="http://blenchmark.com/cpu-benchmarks" rel="nofollow">CPU Benchmark</a></p>
|
4101
|
2016-07-04T09:46:35.783
|
|graphics-cards|linux|
|
<p>I've started using Cycles Render in Blender for a specific project. I've set up CUDA on my Linux machine to enable rendering with the GPU however discovered that my graphics card, an old GeForce GT 520, does GPU rendering much more slowly than the render with the CPU (Intel® Core™ i7-2600K CPU @ 3.40GHz).</p>
<p>At this point, my budget for a new graphics card is R$800 (Brazilian Real) and this site is the <a href="http://www.kabum.com.br/hardware/placa-de-video-vga?ordem=5&limite=30&dep=01&sec=14&cat=&sub=&pagina=1&string=" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cheapest local online market</a> for cards.</p>
<p>Within my budget and in the GeForce line, I've found:</p>
<p>GTX 750 Ti 2GB</p>
<p>Geforce GTX 950 2GB</p>
<ul>
<li>Are these likely to improve performance significantly over the performance of my CPU?</li>
<li>Or are they too low-level?</li>
<li>Other suggestions?</li>
</ul>
<p>Thanks</p>
|
Budget graphics card recommendation for Blender Cycles Render on Linux?
|
<p>You are looking for a ATX case. I have a few suggestions for you. Consider the LIAN LI PC-A05FNB or the Antec Sonata Series SOLO II.</p>
<p>For comparision I have listed the Fractal Design Define R5, which is my favorite case. However, it is too large for your requirements ("but dont to be very big outside"). It's dimensions are 17.76" x 9.13" x 20.51". You seem to want something smaller.</p>
<p>Three smaller cases are listed below. I only have experience with the Antec Sonata Series SOLO II. It's an older design, and it is missing some of the touches found in the R5, but it is a good quality case and it seems to be about the size you are seeking.</p>
<p>However, the LIAN LI PC-A05FNB has very positive reviews. It is worth considering.</p>
<p>The very smallest ATX case I know is the Cooler Master Elite 361. I have not used it. I think it is a older design, also probably lacking the modern features of the R5.</p>
<p>The Pros and Cons below are all from NewEgg reviews. (I summarized.)</p>
<p><strong>Fractal Design Define R5</strong> Blackout Window Silent ATX Midtower Computer Case</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811352057" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811352057</a></li>
<li>5 stars, 23 reviews $109.99</li>
<li>Pros: very popular quiet case; excellent build quality; well thought out design elements; great value.</li>
<li>Cons: not a compact, small case (for those looking for something compact)</li>
<li><p>Dimensions (H x W x D): </p>
<pre><code>18.19" x 9.13" x 20.91" with feet/screws/protrusions
17.76" x 9.13" x 20.51"
Weight: 22.69 lbs.
</code></pre></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Cooler Master Elite 361</strong> - Mid Tower Computer Case with Rotatable Logo for Vertical or Horizontal Placement </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119262" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119262</a></li>
<li>4 stars, 17 reviews</li>
<li>Pros: Great size if you need something compact with full atx. Can fit a moderately large GPU in the case.</li>
<li>Cons: Can't fit any tall cpu coolers in this case. May be too small for many builds.</li>
<li><p>Dimensions (H x W x D):</p>
<pre><code>14.40" x 5.90" x 18.20"
Weight: 10.60 lbs.
</code></pre></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Antec Sonata Series SOLO II</strong> Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129177" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129177</a></li>
<li>4 stars, 53 reviews $119.99</li>
<li>Compact, good quality; not on the same level as the R5, but better than most cases I've used</li>
<li><p>Dimensions (H x W x D): </p>
<pre><code>18.50" x 8.10" x 17.30"
Weight: 20.20 lbs.
</code></pre></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>LIAN LI PC-A05FNB</strong> Black Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Computer Case </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112331" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112331</a></li>
<li>4 stars, 51 reviews $89.99</li>
<li>Pros: One of the best cases I've ever owned. The front power supply position is an excellent use a space. Everything well thought out and designed. Beautiful finish.</li>
<li>Cons: This case really can fit a full size ATX board, power supply and GPU, but it becomes a very tight fit when using full size parts. If you are patient then you can assemble this well even with full size parts. Just don't expect to open it up and tinker with it often!</li>
<li><p>Dimensions (H x W x D)</p>
<pre><code>19.69" x 8.27" x 15.16"
Weight: 9.70 lbs.
</code></pre></li>
</ul>
<h2>UPDATE</h2>
<p>I personally prefer Fractal Design cases. Here are three more possibilities to consider. Of these, the Core 2300 is the smallest. However, the Core line is their budget line. I haven't used any of these cases, but they may lack some of the high end features of the R5 (and R4).</p>
<p>** Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Black Window High-Airflow ATX Midtower Computer Case **</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031</a></li>
<li>5 stars, 178 reviews $109.99</li>
<li>Tweaktown Must Have Editor's Choice Award</li>
<li>Pros: "By far the best case I have ever bought, and I've purchased many different cases."</li>
<li>Cons: only 2 external drive bays; heavy; SSD mount has to be placed before putting on your mobo</li>
<li><p>Dimensions (H x W x D):</p>
<pre><code>18.11" x 9.06" x 20.28"
Weight: 23.59 lbs.
</code></pre></li>
</ul>
<p>** Fractal Design Define R4 Black Silent ATX Midtower Computer Case **</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020</a></li>
<li>5 stars, 494 reviews $109.99</li>
<li>Pros: Very solidly built, lots of cable routing options. Despite its quiet design, there is still good airflow. "It's the best case i have used so far."</li>
<li>Cons: "A little bigger than I expected"</li>
<li><p>Dimensions (H x W x D)</p>
<pre><code>18.27" x 9.13" x 20.59"
Weight: 27.12 lbs.
</code></pre></li>
</ul>
<p>** Fractal Design Core 2300 Black Wide-body ATX Midtower Computer Case **</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811352042" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811352042</a></li>
<li>4 stars, 11 reviews $69.99</li>
<li>Benchmark Review's Recommended Product Award</li>
<li>A compact full-ATX case with bottom-mounted PSU, designed for exceptional airflow and cooling.</li>
<li>Pros: "This is really a great case for a good price with a quality name behind it. The case is sturdy and well designed. Plenty of space for cable management and plenty of sources to tie down wires."</li>
<li>Cons: Lower build quality than the R5; some claim flimsy; drive mounts are controversial</li>
<li><p>Dimensions (W x H x D)</p>
<pre><code>7.6 x 17.5 x 18.1 inches (195 x 445 x 460mm)
Weight: 11.4 lbs (5.2kg)
</code></pre></li>
</ul>
|
4103
|
2016-07-04T12:34:52.403
|
|motherboard|case|cooling|
|
<p>I'm currently search for a new custom PC and one of the hardest part to me is to choose what case should i go to.</p>
<p>I'm looking for a case that can fit perfectly the motherboard <code>MSI Z170A M7</code> and the cpu cooler <code>Corsair H100i V2</code> and the requirements are:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>It was good space inside, but dont to be very big outside </p></li>
<li><p>Can implement a good ventilation system (at least 2 fans on the bottom front, and 1 on back top), the place to install the H100i should be on the top since the heated air tend to go up and not down.</p></li>
<li><p>Filters for fans</p></li>
<li><p>Space for the list of components bellow.</p></li>
<li><p>At least space for one optical drive, </p></li>
<li><p>For last the price as an important factor. </p></li>
</ul>
<p>This will be the list of components that I'm thinking, since it can help on te decision of the case.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>MSI z170A M7</p></li>
<li><p>I7 6700k</p></li>
<li><p>Samsung 950 512GB M.2</p></li>
<li><p>Corsair Vengence 16(2x8)GB 3200MHZ</p></li>
<li><p>Corsair H100i V2</p></li>
<li><p>Corsair RM750x </p></li>
<li><p>GPU still thinking, but consider Gtx 1070 or 1080.</p></li>
<li><p>On the future it will be added a second Samsung 950 512GB M.2 for raid 0 and a ide for data.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>So I'm looking for the best case for the setup and the pros and cons of the case.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
<p>PS. I'm not into the led fancing thing but if the case is the best and has leds i don't mind.</p>
|
Best case for z170A M7 and Corsair Hydro H100i V2
|
<p>That graphics card is horribly underpowered for any modern game. I would advise you to get a newer/better one (such as a 750Ti). It would be better to just plug the monitor into the mainboard graphics plug, as even intel's integrated GPU will outperform the 8500 GT and <em>might</em> be able to play some modern games somewhat smoothly.</p>
<p>TL;DR: There is no way to get a reasonably modern game running smoothly on hardware released in 2007.</p>
<p>EDIT: If you downvoted, please explain why</p>
|
4110
|
2016-07-04T23:07:42.073
|
|graphics-cards|memory|
|
<p>Not sure if this is the best forum for this. If it is not, can you point me in the general direction of the best one? </p>
<p>I would like to play a video game that needs 1GB of dedicated RAM to the graphics card. When I use the "Can I run it" site, it tells me that there is only 32 MB of dedicated graphics RAM. When I run the game it is unbearably choppy and I am not able to play it. </p>
<p>I have included Device Manager and dxdiag screenshots. The Display screenshot says that I have just about 4GB of RAM for graphics. I have checked all the drivers, they are up to date. I have attempted to go in to the BIOS and change the amount, as recommended by some Google searchage, but there is no option in there that I can find. I've selected every single option I can, just in case it's lurking somewhere I wouldn't expect to find it. Is there anything else that I can do, other than replacing the card, to satisfy the game requirements? </p>
<blockquote>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2h4C.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2h4C.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8V9K.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8V9K.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
</blockquote>
|
Dedicating RAM to video card
|
<p>Get something <strong>newer</strong>. Your card has <strong>192-bit Memory Interface Width</strong>, and a memory bus that slow is <strong>not</strong> going to <strong>handle 3gb's of memory very efficiently</strong>, even with a single card. You would be in a much <strong>better</strong> position with a <strong>single 970 or 980</strong>. While the amount of <strong>VRAM might be greater</strong> with the two 760's, <strong>you won't see better performance</strong> than you would out of a single 970 or 980. And you'll also have to deal with the first four problems I list in this answer <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4058/1x-gtx-1080-or-2x-gtx-970">here</a>. Let me quote myself:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>First, you won't have to fuss around with getting <strong>SLI</strong> to work properly. Not that its a massive pain, but it is a pain.</p>
<p>Second, some games <strong>do not even support SLI properly</strong>. Now this may <strong>not happen often</strong>, but imagine your shock when your $1000+ GPU setup won't play nice with certain games. (Don't get me wrong, I know <em>most</em> games support SLI, but this doesn't change the fact that there <strong>are some compatibility issues</strong> with certain games...)</p>
<p>Third, <strong>power consumption</strong>. It may not be a huge issue, but its another issue to stack on-top of the other issues that come with running two cards. (~150 watts per 970, vs ~250 for a single 1080)</p>
<p>Fourth, <strong>resale value</strong>. Not that you'll want to sell, but this is still something to think about.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>All of these issues apply directly to your situation as well. Except the power consumption would be <strong>slightly different</strong> for 760's vs 970's; but the same concept applies, you'll be <strong>drawing significantly more power</strong>.</p>
<p>You would also have to <strong>find</strong> a 760 3gb card, which would be tough to get new, so you would be stuck with used or refurb models off of eBay.</p>
<p>So all in all? <strong>Don't go for SLI</strong>, instead of searching for the same card, <strong>save your time</strong>, <strong>put more money up front</strong> and get yourself a <strong>GTX 970 or 980</strong> (go Ti if you can!).</p>
<p>Sources: <a href="http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-760-oem/specifications?ClickID=cvlkpk4q4xkikainsvfwfskkaei4zilwwnsn" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GTX 760 3gb Specs</a> | <a href="http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-970/specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GTX 970 Specs</a> | <a href="http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980/specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GTX 980 Specs</a></p>
|
4111
|
2016-07-05T02:56:53.180
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I have single gtx 760 3gb and still have room for another gpu. Should I go for a newer like 970 or 980 or get SLI?
How better is 980 from 760 sli?</p>
|
GTX 760 SLI worth it?
|
<p>The G3258 is an unlocked processor on the 1150 socket, so it is not subject to all of the recent BIOS hubbub surrounding Intel's crackdown on overclocking non-K processors on the 1151 (Skylake) socket. As such, it is STILL THE CASE that you can overclock your G3258 on ANY 1150 motherboard with a BIOS that supports OCing, Windows 10 or not.</p>
<p>As such, I recommend the Gigabyte GA-H81M-H. It is a proven overclocker and is currently one of the cheapest boards available for the 1150 socket.</p>
|
4117
|
2016-07-05T18:05:43.727
|
|processor|motherboard|
|
<p>I am interested to build a new desktop PC having as starting point G3258 CPU overclocked at 4-4.5GHz. It's well known the fact that the overclocking subject regarding this CPU it's pretty twisted. I've read different infos telling that once, this CPU was overclockable on Motherboards with B85, H87, H81, Z87, Z97 chipsets; Lately, I've read about a Win 10 update that cut this possibility but not so sure if this will apply on Z chipset Mobos or not(?)</p>
<p>Having said that, which is in your opinion your Motherboard recommendation in order to use this CPU in OC mode please? (if there is anyone that use a machine with this CPU overclocked); I've studied these:</p>
<p>ASUS Z97M-PLUS</p>
<p>ASUS Z97-K</p>
<p>ASROCK Z97 Anniversary</p>
<p>ASROCK Z97 PRO4 </p>
<p>But I can't decide...</p>
|
Motherboard recommendation for G3258 OC
|
<p>For a 2018 answer, the <a href="https://blackberrymobile.com/product/blackberry-key2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>BlackBerry KEY2</strong></a>.</p>
<h3><a href="https://blackberrymobile.com/specifications/keytwo/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Specs</a></h3>
<ul>
<li>A great <strong>physical keyboard</strong>, which doubles as a trackpad for scrolling, navigation, and text selection, and allows for custom programmable macros to instantly launch anything</li>
<li>Android <strong>Oreo 8.1</strong></li>
<li><strong>SnapDragon 660, Kryo 260 8-Core @ 2.2 GHz x 4 + 1.8GHz x 4</strong> and <strong>6GB RAM</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>As for your nice-to-haves:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Can be rooted</strong> (e.g. <a href="https://cyanogenmod-roms.apk.cafe/blackberry/key2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CyanogenMod</a>)</li>
<li><strong>1080p</strong> screen (433 PPI)</li>
<li><strong>3500 mAh</strong> of battery (~25 hrs of mixed use)</li>
<li>OS will likely get <strong>feature updates</strong> (KEYone Oreo updates are rolling out at the time of writing)</li>
</ul>
<p>Unfortuantely it fails your "Supported on the Verizon network" requirement, since it's GSM/GPRS/EDGE, but Verizon only supports CDMA. I hope it's not still a deal-breaker to transfer to a GSM provider like T-Mobile or AT&T.</p>
|
4136
|
2016-07-06T21:21:24.187
|
|keyboards|smartphones|
|
<p>So far, it appears the only thing I can get if I want a device that's even <em>remotely</em> modern is the <a href="http://us.blackberry.com/smartphones/priv-by-blackberry/overview.html" rel="nofollow">Blackberry Priv</a>, but I could be wrong, hence the question.</p>
<p>My hard requirements (it's a dealbreaker without them):</p>
<ul>
<li>The keyboard, as mentioned in the topic.</li>
<li>Decent app ecosystem (this eliminates all other BB devices)</li>
<li>OS that still gets security updates</li>
<li>Good performance (the UI should not hitch and stutter under daily use)</li>
<li>Supported on the Verizon network</li>
</ul>
<p>Secondary concerns (nice to haves):</p>
<ul>
<li>Can be rooted/jailbroken</li>
<li>At least a 1080p screen</li>
<li>Battery life should last a full day under light use</li>
<li>OS still gets feature updates</li>
</ul>
<p>Price no object; nearly any phone can be had via carrier discounts or secondhand.</p>
|
Modern smartphone with a physical keyboard
|
<p>I would personally recommend Ubiquiti's UniFi line of infrastructure, which is rather inexpensive and is actually pretty good from what I've seen of it. The <a href="https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/" rel="nofollow">UniFi AP</a> (<a href="https://store.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap.html" rel="nofollow">Store page</a>) should be suited for what you want. They would need to be configured by a device running their controller software though (which could be a raspberry pi or other cheap computer.) A tutorial for setting up the pfSense control webserver on the pi can be found <a href="https://erikvanpaassen.tweakblogs.net/blog/12480/turning-a-raspberry-pi-into-a-unifi-controller-appliance-%28unifi-4-raspbian-jessie-oracle-java-8%29" rel="nofollow">here</a> if you wish to use a pi for that task.</p>
|
4139
|
2016-07-07T18:48:49.667
|
|networking|wireless|
|
<p>Do you have any suggestions for a cheap device that can be plugged into the LAN NIC of a pfSense Box, and allow for ip addresses to be dolled out via it's DHCP Server?</p>
<p>I'm trying to filter internet access using the pfSense proxy server, I'm currently using a pretty good router to do this same thing, and I was looking for a cheaper alternative.</p>
<p>pfSense / FreeBSD doesn't play well with wireless NICs, which is the reasoning behind the setup.</p>
|
Suggestion for a cheap device that can be plugged into the LAN end of a pfSense Router and allow wireless devices to connect?
|
<p>Well I'll post what I said in the comment as an answer too.</p>
<p>I suggest you to buy the <strong>MSI Apache Pro</strong> with the <strong>i7 6700HQ and GTX 970M</strong> because this is what you wanted. As for rendering the i7 is way better than the i5 because of more cores and therefore better Multithreading. </p>
<p>The HDD that is built in is with 1TB big enough and you wont find many Laptops that offer more.</p>
<p>As for gaming MSI should be very good. They jsut produce gear for gaming and their products are very well made. Most MSI products can also be upgraded easily. In an older MSI gaming Laptop I bought on ebay you could add an extra fan and extra HDD.</p>
<p>So I would suggest you to buy this ;)</p>
|
4151
|
2016-07-08T07:13:50.950
|
|laptop|gaming|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I am looking to buy a gaming laptop. I own a 15.6 inch laptop and it works perfectly fine for me. I don't travel much either so a 17 inch laptop is also not a problem, but as a last resort of my online research I want to see if there is any 15-16 inch laptop. My eyes are set on this laptop, I wish I could find an exact same laptop like this, but with 15-16 inch screen size.</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B015QZVAF2" rel="nofollow">Asus ROG G751JT-WH71</a></p>
<p>Also for the given price range around $1200 or less, is there any better gaming laptop that you would recommend? I also plan to use it for media creation like stuff from Adobe products, and 3D stuff from Maya, Blender etc.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
|
Is there any 15-16 inch screen sized gaming laptop with gtx 970m with?
|
<p>OK, I think I have a solution that will be very close to what you originally had in mind: a <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817366050&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Hubs%20-%20Network%20%2F%20USB%20%2F%20Firewire-_-N82E16817366050&gclid=CjwKEAjw8Jy8BRCE0pOC9qzRhkMSJABC1pvJByP0-HA8k5REM7T-2B2jaRMQb_9UYLV_n7iu4plTHhoCD9Pw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds" rel="nofollow">USB hub with individual port power switches</a>.</p>
<p>By turning power on and off to two keyboards attached to this hub, you can have two keyboards attached to a single computer that don't get in the way of each other - they can be locked out from entering commands until power is restored to their port.</p>
|
4165
|
2016-07-09T15:48:02.153
|
|keyboards|
|
<p>I have a system with multiple keyboards, and one CPU. The problem is, if person 1 is entering a value from keyboard 1 and person 2 enters the value from keyboard 2 at the same time, the value entered is mixed up. What peripheral can be used so that only one keyboard is active at a time. For example, when keyboard 1 starts typing, keyboard 2 must be disabled until keyboard 1 presses a specific button. [Can a hardware device solve this? Or can it be controlled by using some code in my software?]</p>
|
What device is needed for using multiple keyboards in one computer so that the input from one kyeboard is not disturbed by the other?
|
<p>If you are willing to do a bit more work on integration with whatever you want to run, you can try a Parallella board. That gives you a 16 core RISC co processor plus a dual core main processor on a board the size of a credit card.
They use very little energy and are specifically designed to be used in clusters or in parallel (hence the name) applications.
As a bonus, they start at about $100 each and they run Linux.
<a href="https://www.parallella.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.parallella.org/</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdqVm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdqVm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
4175
|
2016-07-11T08:08:14.133
|
|processor|motherboard|
|
<p>I'm looking for parallel computing in tiniest form possible. For example, having two 18 cores Intel Xeon parked on both sides of motherboard with size of credit card would be ideal solution.</p>
<p>Couldn't found any motherboards (compatible with CPUs with 10+ cores) without USBs, Wifi, PCIe and other ports, that makes them only bigger.</p>
<p><strong>More specifically I need best Cores per Square Meter ratio possible: CPU and motherboard models.</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>1.5-2GHz is ok. More = better, but not critical</li>
<li>yes, it is to build high-dense CPU farm</li>
<li>no, it is not for mining, it is for math, non-GPU calculations</li>
<li>yes, amount of cores (multithreading) is critical</li>
<li>yes, huge 4x"Intel Broadwell-EP CPU"s server motherboards are ok until they bring best cores/square ratio</li>
</ul>
<h2>Updated (12.07):</h2>
<p>Considering answers below which I have at the moment:</p>
<ul>
<li>No AMD at all, Xeon processors it is, E5 or E7 is to be evaluated by cost/density/power factor, will update with calculations later.</li>
<li>I'm also in blade servers with extreme density WITH support of Xeon Phi - some of applications will run on it nicely with reuse of code and data, have spent a day looking for specifications and cost, will update as soon as will have nice configuration on hands</li>
<li>regarding CUDA and Nvidia Tesla, that is a separate question and it is solved already, will share specifications with you later, thank you, <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/4184/3925">SEJPM</a>!</li>
</ul>
<p>What is already decided that configuration will have BOTH Xeon E5/E7 and Xeon Phi on same boards (not on all of them though). <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkf3U_5QG_4" rel="noreferrer">Cray supercomputers already use it</a></p>
<h2>Updated (12.07)[2]:</h2>
<p>To be clear: I've a lot of small binaries (cross-platform, C++ and Java) each of them work for seconds with parallel computing full-support. When it comes to situation where there are significantly less cores than amount of threads/processes started, overall efficiency drops due to a lot of context switching between processes. And there is no way to queue jobs, let's say they are to be done in real-time manner.</p>
<p>Best way is to distribute them among Xeon Phi (store code and preseed with data) + run others as a tiny-services (solving issue with binary loading overhead) waiting for jobs.</p>
<p>That is why I search for comparatively cheap solution with high cores density to not to maintain big amount of units, solving more problems with data-logistic.</p>
|
Biggest amount of cores on the smallest board
|
<p>Not wanting to pay an ongoing monthly fee for either monitoring or cell service of alerts really limits the options here.</p>
<p>You can cobble together D-Link WiFi Motion Sensors (currently <a href="http://us.dlink.com/products/connected-home/wi-fi-motion-sensor/" rel="nofollow">DCH-S150</a>, about $40/apiece) and control them using <a href="https://ifttt.com/dlink_motion_sensor" rel="nofollow">IFTTT.com</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.ismartalarm.com/us/" rel="nofollow">iSmartAlarm</a> appears to be a step up, with a wireless hub that integrates a siren and the ability to link and control many devices: extra $30 motion sensors, $25 door/window sensors, cameras, and electrical switches.</p>
<p>Other "self-monitored" systems are built around cameras: E.g., <a href="https://canary.is/" rel="nofollow">Canary</a> security devices are under $200 and each one includes full HD video as well as motion detection, humidity and temperature measurement, and a siren. <a href="https://getpiper.com/" rel="nofollow">Piper</a> is similar, and <a href="http://www.novisecurity.com/" rel="nofollow">Novi</a> has a smoke detector built in to each ceiling-mount unit. </p>
|
4181
|
2016-07-11T17:28:07.537
|
|home-security|
|
<p>I don't want to pay for a monitored alarm system. I would just like to install some wireless motion sensors that, either directly or via a separate controller that uses the local wifi:</p>
<ol>
<li>Can be armed/disarmed from a smartphone</li>
<li>Push alerts to registered smartphones when motion is detected while system is armed.</li>
</ol>
|
Smartphone-controlled motion alarm system
|
<p>As long as you are happy with 80+ Platinum and the power envelope, there have been no significant improvements in power supply technology over the past few years. A quality PSU is a quality PSU. If it's been sat in a box, it won't have degraded, as it would have under use (PSU calculators use a 10% per year worst case in their analysis, generally you get better than that though).</p>
<p>The bottom line with a PSU is how much power it can provide, and how efficiently it provides it. The AX line was top of Corsairs range, just as the AXi line is now. The AXi switches analogue for digital regulation, but all that really adds is the ability to monitor/adjust PSU parameters from software, it doesn't inherently make the PSU more powerful or more efficient.</p>
<p>I would suggest that you only upgrade if:</p>
<ul>
<li>You need a higher power envelope for your new rig (unlikely if you are going for a recent 14nm CPU / 16nm GPU combination, especially if your original system was spec'd for dual 28nm era GPUs).</li>
<li>You want the higher power efficiently of 80+ Titanium (unlikely to be economic unless electricity prices are very high where you live).</li>
<li>You want to tinker with or monitor PSU parameters live as your system is running (doesn't seem like it is worth the expense).</li>
</ul>
|
4182
|
2016-07-11T18:07:27.760
|
|pc|power-supply|
|
<p>I have a Corsair AX760 Watt PSU which is still new in the box but is an older model. So it was never used. It was meant to be build in a high end gaming PC but that never happened. I see that this one is still available in some shops but I wonder how the price relates to the quality after three years.</p>
<p>Which new generation power supply will be a mentionable replacement? Like the old model it is for a high end gaming PC too but should meet the requirements/standards for a modern gaming PC (see below). If new models have some benefits over this older one, what are those benefits and is it worth it spending the extra money while I have this unused PSU?</p>
<p>Some background: I expect to build a new PC somewhere in October just for gaming, including Core i5 or i7, gaming motherboard, DDR4 memory, higher end graphics card and SSD (that's all it will contain). Everything I don't have to buy can be spend on the GPU hence my question. A complementary question: The old model was intended to power two graphics cards, I'm not sure if I'm going that route this time but if I do would that influence the answer? Take into account SLI and Crossfire as I've not made any decision yet what to buy.</p>
|
Older model vs new model PSU
|
<h1>Explanation</h1>
<h2>Performance</h2>
<p>Clock speed ('Ghz') is not all that matters when it comes to performance.</p>
<p>Quite a few things can dictate how well a certain CPU performs, including but not limited to</p>
<ul>
<li>IPC (instructions per cycle)</li>
<li>Arcithecture ('nm')</li>
<li>Clock speed ('Ghz')</li>
<li>Cache ('MB' & 'KB')</li>
<li>Cores (1,2,4,6,8,etc.) (multi thread performance)</li>
<li>TDP ('W','Watts') (Power consumption)</li>
</ul>
<h2>Features</h2>
<p>Furthermore, a CPU's desirability can furthermore be increased/decreased by how many features it has and what chipset it uses.</p>
<ul>
<li>Hyperthreading (Virtual cores)</li>
<li>RAM capacity </li>
<li>RAM channels (Complicated stuff, not too much to worry about)</li>
<li>Chipset (Does it support modern motherboards?)</li>
<li>Integrated graphics (does not require a separate graphics card)</li>
</ul>
<h1>Comparison</h1>
<h2>Specifications</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/75105/Intel-Core-i3-4005U-Processor-3M-Cache-1_70-GHz" rel="nofollow">i3-4005U</a></li>
<li><a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/27447/Intel-Pentium-4-Processor-2_80-GHz-512K-Cache-533-MHz-FSB" rel="nofollow">Pentium 4 2.8Ghz</a></li>
<li>i3 uses 22nm architecture, P4 uses 120nm</li>
<li>i3 has a 15W TDP, P4 has a 65W TDP</li>
<li>i3 has integrated graphics</li>
<li>i3 has hyperthreading</li>
<li>i3 has 2 cores, P4 has 1 core</li>
<li>i3 has a newer chipset</li>
<li>i3 has a built in memory controller</li>
<li>i3 has more cache</li>
<li>i3 has a variety of features the P4 doesn't</li>
</ul>
<h2>Benchmarks</h2>
<p><strong>(i3 on the left, P4 on the right)
(Higher is better!)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><a href="http://cpubenchmark.com" rel="nofollow">Passmark</a></strong> | 2435 | 325 | i3-4005U is 650% better.</li>
</ul>
<p>Unfortunately there are no other benchmarks that I can find that contain information on both the i3-4005U and the Pentium 4 since the Pentium 4 is 11 years older than the i3.</p>
<h1>TL;DR</h1>
<h2>Get the i3-4005U because it is far less outdated, requires no dedicated graphics card, uses a less outdated chipset, and performs much better in terms of single core performance and (because it has a second core) dual core performance.</h2>
|
4190
|
2016-07-12T08:31:19.070
|
|processor|desktop|pc|
|
<p>I am planning to build a computer and my first problem was the processor. I saw many options on the market and am interested in choosing between these two. I'm thinking on choosing the i3 because it's part of the generation of 'i series', but someone told me to look for it's clock speed which is 'GHz'.</p>
<p>Now I am uncertain of which to purchase.</p>
|
Pentium 4 2.8GHz or i3 1.7GHz, which one should I choose?
|
<p>You should tell us the laptop you have. Most of laptops actually do not have video input (I know that some lenovo and alienware does).</p>
<p>Besides, you have to solutions:</p>
<ul>
<li>The software one, that emulate a video input (such as Maxivista)</li>
<li>The hardware one, which need an (expensive) device such a VGA2USB (<a href="https://www.epiphan.com/products/vga2usb/" rel="nofollow">https://www.epiphan.com/products/vga2usb/</a>). (Note that such devices cost most of the time 200 to 300 € which leads me to say that it might be wiser to buy a monitor X) )</li>
</ul>
<p>Since I never did that I can't tell for sure, but I think both solutions leeds to a latency that might be unsuitable for gaming.</p>
|
4192
|
2016-07-12T10:10:18.063
|
|laptop|motherboard|desktop|pc|
|
<p>I currently have a computer running Windows 10. It has a ASUS® MAXIMUS VIII RANGER: RoG, PCI-e 3.0, SATA 3.0, LG1151 motherboard, integrated graphics.</p>
<p>I currently do not have an external monitor or keyboard for my computer, so I would like to use my laptop as a monitor for my computer. How would I do this and what cables or software would I need? Thanks in advance.</p>
|
Use laptop as primary monitor for desktop computer?
|
<p>In terms of getting standardized performance out of your IDE drive, the best advice I can give you is to add an <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124009&cm_re=ide_controller_card-_-16-124-009-_-Product" rel="nofollow">IDE controller card</a> to your PC so that you can get a direct IDE to bus connection going over the PCI or PCI-E interface. I've had bad luck getting SATA > IDE adapters to work and would not recommend them.</p>
<p>The big problem here is that an IDE controller card costs about as much as, if not more than, <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA10V45V8081&cm_re=DVD-rW_drive-_-9SIA10V45V8081-_-Product" rel="nofollow">a new SATA DVD-RW drive</a>, which would also yield increased performance. It might make more sense simply to bite the bullet and upgrade the drive. </p>
|
4207
|
2016-07-13T11:09:00.847
|
|audio-recording|
|
<p>I am interested to internally integrate a CD-RW IDE unit (Plextor Plexwriter Premium 2) using the existing mainboard interface USB 3, Sata 3, PCIe mostly in burning CD's with AMQR not in ripping. As far as I've read, using an IDE converter can be a tricky job and there are some variables including chip manufacturer, etc. Is there anyone that have been used one of the above solutions without experiencing transfer problems / buffer underrun/ loss of quality? Thanks</p>
|
CD-RW IDE to USB SATA PCIe interface
|
<p>The Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury meets most of the requirements. It is a little more than your ideal price. It is $49.99 on newegg <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=g402&N=-1&isNodeId=1" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=g402&N=-1&isNodeId=1</a></p>
<ul>
<li>It is a wired laser/optical mouse</li>
<li>The resolution is from 240 to 4000 DPI at 1000hz data polling</li>
<li>It has three configurable thumb buttons and two other macro buttons. Any of which can be configured as a DPS button</li>
<li>It has a blue light, but it is configurable if you want to adjust it or turn it off.</li>
<li>It has solid construction</li>
</ul>
<p>--</p>
<ul>
<li>It is a larger mouse</li>
<li>It is not a scanner mouse</li>
<li>It does not have smooth scrolling </li>
</ul>
|
4218
|
2016-07-14T14:58:53.107
|
|mice|
|
<p>I used to have a wonderful Microsoft Intellimouse 3.0 - it had excellent button layout, size, and AFAIK a great sensor on it. Unfortunately I think the right click button has worn out, so I'll need to replace it (if you think it can be repaired let me know that <em>along</em> with your replacement suggestion).</p>
<p>What I want in a mouse:</p>
<ul>
<li>laser/optical</li>
<li>two thumb buttons (forward/backward ideally)</li>
<li>medium size</li>
<li>smooth scrolling a plus</li>
<li>sensor polling and sensitivity relatively high</li>
<li>USB wired</li>
<li>DPI switch button a plus</li>
<li>no glued on "grips"</li>
<li>if lit, white, green, or configurable lights are preferred</li>
<li>scanner mouse would be neat - can it still be a good gaming mouse?</li>
<li>easy to clean underside</li>
<li>ideally less than $40</li>
</ul>
|
I need a good mouse to replace my Microsoft Intellimouse 3.0
|
<p>If you have not upgraded:
I would recommend the <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137047&ignorebbr=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12</a></p>
<pre><code>3GB 192-Bit GDDR5
Core Clock 1544 MHz
Boost Clock 1759 MHz
1 x DL-DVI-D 1 x HDMI 2.0 1 x DisplayPort 1.4
PCI Express 3.0 x16
</code></pre>
<p>Some Futuremark stats for both cards:</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/gpu/AMD+Radeon+HD+7850/review" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HD 7850</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.futuremark.com/hardware/gpu/NVIDIA+GeForce+GTX+1060-3GB/review" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GeForce GTX 1060-3GB</a></li>
</ol>
<p><a href="http://www.anandtech.com/show/10580/nvidia-releases-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Anandtec review of the GTX 1060-3GB</a></p>
<p>Note, the anandtec review shows the EVGA card, but the MSI is the same chip.</p>
|
4230
|
2016-07-15T18:57:36.260
|
|desktop|graphics-cards|
|
<h2>Introduction</h2>
<p>I would like to purchase a graphics card (GPU) with a performance ~2x better than my current GPU, a Radeon HD 7850.</p>
<h2>Preferences</h2>
<ul>
<li>Price < $120 (If it costs more and I can get it used for this price that's fine)</li>
<li>Performance at least 2x better than the HD 7850</li>
<li>Compatible with windows</li>
<li>nVidia <strong>preferable</strong>, but anything more than a miniscule performance downgrade and I'll take AMD</li>
<li>I can wait a few months if something is coming out</li>
<li>I'd prefer not to do SLI/CrossFireX, but if the peformance benefit is substantial, I'll consider doing it with two cheap cards.</li>
<li>TDP <= 300W</li>
</ul>
<h2>Additional Information</h2>
<ul>
<li>I play games such as Team Fortress 2, Trackmania 2, Trackmania United, Minecraft, SimCity 4, Hearthstone, Heroes of the Storm, and World of Warcraft.</li>
<li>I also do Blender rendering, however this supports OpenCL and CUDA now so AMD is not a concern</li>
<li>I have done my research and know about cards such as the GTX 960, GTX 770, R9 280X, R9 280, HD 7970, etc. I just want to know if there's something I've missed.</li>
</ul>
<p>I would prefer if you provided benchmarks, links and maybe the occasional picture to back up your answer.</p>
|
Graphics card with better performance than AMD HD 7850
|
<p>So if you are looking for what I think you are looking for I would suggest you look for a cheap server on ebay or in a small form factor case for around 80$ like this one:<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/FAST-DELL-DUAL-CORE-3-4-GHZ-DESKTOP-COMPUTER-PC-4GB-RAM-Wifi-WINDOWS-7-PRO-/262152856157?hash=item3d0987225d:g:AdoAAOSwYmZXI2bs" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/FAST-DELL-DUAL-CORE-3-4-GHZ-DESKTOP-COMPUTER-PC-4GB-RAM-Wifi-WINDOWS-7-PRO-/262152856157?hash=item3d0987225d:g:AdoAAOSwYmZXI2bs</a></p>
<p>This is very small comes with windows 7 and you can configure it with a 2tb hard drive for 100$ then for an os you can use windows 7 or you can use free nas which is an amazing server software which I have used myself and if you want to bring the 80$ down you can look for one with no os and just buy the hard drive and slip it in and put free nas on it. Now I dont know if you need a nice router but if you do I suggest this: <a href="http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/555607/Belkin-N300-Wireless-Router/?cm_mmc=PLA-_-Google-_-Printers_Scanners_Faxes-_-555607-VQ6-47886868676-VQ16-c-VQ17-pla-VQ18-online-VQ19-555607-VQ20-76926630596-VQ21--VQ22-177839036-VQ27-9203161796&gclid=CILM5pvuh84CFQ6EaQodFvsHxw" rel="nofollow">http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/555607/Belkin-N300-Wireless-Router/?cm_mmc=PLA-<em>-Google-</em>-Printers_Scanners_Faxes-_-555607-VQ6-47886868676-VQ16-c-VQ17-pla-VQ18-online-VQ19-555607-VQ20-76926630596-VQ21--VQ22-177839036-VQ27-9203161796&gclid=CILM5pvuh84CFQ6EaQodFvsHxw</a></p>
<p>I have this hooked up to my modem and can get around 100mbps download speed</p>
<p>Speaking of modems if you want a nice one of those I would suggest this: ARRIS / Motorola SurfBoard SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem – 600 MHz Dual-Thread Processor</p>
<p>If you have decent internet speed any one of these things are nice options for what you want if I am reading it right Sorry If I did not understand what you wanted</p>
<p>btw for freenas there are TONS of easy tutorials to set it up</p>
<p>But I have no idea if I wrote what you wanted sorry if I did not</p>
|
4245
|
2016-07-18T14:28:25.630
|
|nas|
|
<p>I am trying to create a NAS but I want to run my own software on it. I want to be able to download data around 20MB/s over WiFi from the system.</p>
<p>I used a raspi and created a prototype, but as it uses a single bus it is not able to transfer data from the HDD to the user at the rates I am talking about. Anybody know any build that suits this? Looking for suggestions.</p>
<ol>
<li>Budget – around USD 300 - 400</li>
<li>Size requirements – as small as possible</li>
<li>Operating conditions – Will be deployed in my van: take impacts into consideration, I am planning to devise a case that can solve this issue. Needs heat dissipation solution as my van is not air conditioned. </li>
<li>Desired software you want to run on it – web server running on Node.JS</li>
<li>Storage media – 2TB HDD (as of now I use a 1TB external)</li>
<li>Power solution – need a powerbackup that can last for one hour</li>
<li>I need good network adapters and USB ports that won't hinder my data streaming. </li>
<li>Dust proof as I am installing this in India where dust and temperature are a common phenomena</li>
<li>I don't need a screen.</li>
</ol>
<p>I want the case to be smaller in size, I am willing to fabricate one myself if its needed to address my needs. </p>
|
MediaCenter with through put of 20MB/s
|
<p>If you have not already purchased anything, it is entirely possible for an APU to provide you with the processing AND graphics power you need to run the game well. Given that StarCraft II is not highly threaded, but that unfortunately Intel refuses to put any worthy GPU on anything below an i5, I recommend something like the A10-7890K, which at ~150 represents a $75 CPU combined with a $75 GPU and pretty much performs like it, too. Just be sure to pair it with 2133 or 2400mhz RAM.</p>
<p>Alternatively, get whatever CPU you want and pair it with a GPU like the R7 250X or GTX 750; either one is powerful enough for SCII in spades.</p>
|
4250
|
2016-07-19T01:53:15.543
|
|gaming|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I am looking for a graphics card that can run Starcraft II at 1080p and 60 fps. I know that it isn't a super graphics heavy game and am ideally looking for something under $100. I would like something that has linux support as well but most major graphics card manufacturers have that. </p>
<p>I haven't decided what CPU I am going to buy yet but I am planing to buy a pretty powerful one so it shouldn't be a problem. </p>
|
Cheapest graphics card for starcraft
|
<p>Check BOOK Max3, a 13.3" E-book reader with a micro HDMI.</p>
|
4263
|
2016-07-20T15:04:00.257
|
|monitors|hdmi|video-game-console|
|
<p>I'm currently searching for a smaller and simpler Highdpi TV-Solution for my console and microconsole devices. The general idea is that I want a monitor with the display quality (and maybe mobility?) of a modern tablet to connect current-gen and last-gen consoles to it (PS3, PS4, Shield Console etc.).</p>
<p>The requirements would be as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>Resolution of min. 720p, better yet 1080p</li>
<li>Monitor should be between 9" and 12", the absolute maximum would be 13"</li>
<li>Panel refresh at min. 50hz, supported by the connection</li>
<li>IPS or similar quality panel</li>
<li>Direct HDMI-Input, no streaming, no 30hz-converters, none of my video sources have USB-C or Thunderbolt, nor will they likely gain that in the future</li>
<li>Has a case or case purchasable/creatable for the panel, no naked panel</li>
<li>Should not be exclusive to one console like the panels that mount on top of the PS4</li>
<li>Price point is around 300€ in my mind, although I will take a look at more expensive solutions if they have advantages</li>
<li>Good quality, please no Alibaba-links</li>
</ul>
<p>I already looked around but mostly found industry strength displays for embedded factories or USB-Solutions with their own graphic cards included. I would totally be open to just buying a good tablet with HDMI-In as a display mode, although I have never heard of one having that.</p>
<p>Thank you for all your help!</p>
|
Tablet-like 12" Monitor with HDMI-In for Consoles
|
<p>The 480 is not a bad choice for that rig especially that the pc is not meant for heavy gaming. But if you wanted a little more performance you could also go Nvidia and get the new GTX 1060 which performs just a littlebit better than the 480 or if you wanted outstanding performance for the same ~$250 price point you could also get the GTX 970 which would be a really good pair for your CPU, but keep in mind, that is now a generation behind the latest GPUs from Nvidia. Of course all of the aforesaid GPUs offer very high end performace for editing and I don't think you would regret getting either one of them.</p>
|
4265
|
2016-07-20T15:56:55.777
|
|graphics-cards|pc|
|
<p>I currently have a PC with the following hardware:</p>
<ul>
<li>CPU - Intel 6600K.</li>
<li>Motherboard: Asus Maximums VIII Ranger.</li>
<li>Case: Noctis 450.</li>
<li>Also, monitor: Dell U2414H, 1080p.</li>
</ul>
<p>I am currently using integrated graphics but later plan on buying a descrete graphics card. I watch HD movies, which currently is not smooth at all, mainly program in Android Studio and do some video editing in Sony Vegas Pro.</p>
<p>Can any recommend a graphics card no more than £200? Thanks in advance.</p>
|
Graphics card help for my current desktop?
|
<p>This questions has already been answered but here is concrete information provided from seagate.</p>
<p>I also agree with the answer.</p>
<p>Screen Shot 2016-07-22 at 1.58.13 PM.png<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5eW7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5eW7.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
4273
|
2016-07-20T22:59:28.170
|
|hard-disk|backup|
|
<p>I'm looking to replace a backup drive that died. I was considering a Seagate Barracuda drive (ST2000DM001) which is listed as 7200 RPM. Amazon reports a newer version of the drive (ST2000DM006), which is about the same price, but it doesn't list the RPM.</p>
<p>I looked up the spec sheet on the drive, and it doesn't have this information either:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/barracuda-fam/barracuda-new/files/barracuda-ds-1900-1-1606us.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/barracuda-fam/barracuda-new/files/barracuda-ds-1900-1-1606us.pdf</a></p>
<p>Is this newer version of the drive recommended? Does anybody know what the differences are here? Why aren't they reporting the RPM?</p>
<p>So, I'm asking whether I should purchase the newer version of the drive or the older one. Does anyone know if there will be a performance difference?</p>
<p>Clarification: I'm looking for a faster and more reliable drive since I will be often be transferring large amounts of data when backing up, and I need my backup drive to be reliable. Other drive recommendations are also welcome.</p>
|
Seagate Hard Drive RPM
|
<p>If you are running 1080p there are card choices for you to play overwatch near max settings with a GPU around $100.</p>
<p>I recommend you continue saving to at least get an AMD RX 480 for about $200 dollars and that will play EPIC settings which is maxed settings.</p>
<p>But lets say you couldn't spend any more than $150, then I would recommend GTX 950. Here is one on amazon for less than $150 - <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01CX4URJO" rel="nofollow">MSI GTX 950 $132.99</a>.</p>
<p>But lets say you couldn't spend any more than $125, then I would recommend a, like the others an GTX 660ti.</p>
<p>But overall, it seems like the GTX 950 is my overall recommended card in your case.</p>
<p><strong>Edited</strong>: after seeing your using a intel i5, you should be fine to hit higher frames these cards are intended to hit. If you can't hit the desired frames, then you might want to look into safety overclocking your CPU and GPU.</p>
<p><strong>Newest Edit</strong>
The NVIDIA GTX 1060 just came out for MSRP $250, that and the AMD RX 480, destroys current 1080p games! <strong>IMPORTANT</strong>: in order to get any of these new cards listed for their MSRP, you will have to wait for less demand and more supply. Cause right now people are buying these cards for more than what they're supposed to cost. Or buy them from a BestBuy or something. Usually, BestBuy doesn't push their prices up based on supply and demand.</p>
<p>As for windows G, im not sure what that is, but i know people who use twitch that stream with twitch has that equal or more powerful cards listed in this post with no problems at all.</p>
|
4282
|
2016-07-22T11:12:58.457
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<ol>
<li>Can use twitch</li>
<li>Can record screen and gameplay using windows-G option. <a href="http://10windows.pro/what-are-the-pc-system-requirements-for-recording-game-clips-in-the-xbox-app/" rel="nofollow">http://10windows.pro/what-are-the-pc-system-requirements-for-recording-game-clips-in-the-xbox-app/</a></li>
<li>Can play overwatch at full screen with maxed graphic</li>
<li>Cheap. Under $100. Or around. Well, actually even $500 is not an issue but it's better VERY justified.</li>
</ol>
<p>What should I buy?</p>
<p>I am currently using NVIDIA GeForce GT 530 [Display adapter]</p>
|
Recommend me a good video card
|
<p>Given that compiling is a thread-heavy job, your user is best off with the i7 that most cheaply gets them the most threads. Given that all i7 CPUs on the 1150 socket feature 8 threads, that means simply getting them the cheapest i7 you can put in that socket, which would likely be the Intel Core i7-4770S or Intel Core i7-4790.</p>
<p>As an aside, Xeon processors are extremely similar to i7 CPUs and fit on this socket. In addition, they support ECC RAM, which is a feature many compiling rigs benefit from due to the high memory usage and long compile times they can undergo. In addition, some Xeons, like the Intel Xeon E3-1275 V3, currently offer higher performance and lower cost than some of those i7s previously mentioned, and would thus be a better fit. Keep in mind to utilize the ECC feature of Xeon processors, the motherboard and RAM must also support ECC.</p>
<p>Amazon.co.uk had the lowest prices I could find on these processors.</p>
|
4284
|
2016-07-22T11:41:14.913
|
|processor|
|
<p>I'm currently running on a core i5-4460 CPU @ 3.20GHz on a 1150 LGA socket (Haswell). I need to upgrade to an i7 but I'm unsure on what one to go for, it needs to be faster for compiling code (using the machine for software development) - I'm aware a lot is handled by the SSD, thus I'll be installing 2 in raid 0, but the user has specifically requested an i7. Budget of between £200 and £350. Also, suggestions of trusted supplier would be appreciated (I'm in the UK).</p>
|
Which i7 processor should I buy for compiling code?
|
<p>This is a <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B017KPM0S2" rel="nofollow">pushbutton</a>. There are many like it, but this one is yours.</p>
<p>And this is how you <a href="http://reversemidastouch.blogspot.com/2012/06/create-simple-rs232-pushbutton-switch.html" rel="nofollow">connect it to your serial port</a>.</p>
<p>Usually these kinds of things require a little modification, unless such a part is sold by the very people who made the software you're using. </p>
<p>The USB solution may work just as well, I'm not sure.</p>
|
4289
|
2016-07-22T18:16:20.223
|
|usb|remote-control|rs-232|
|
<p>I have searched for a single button (sort of like an arcade button) that connects via RS232 and I have not found one. Anyone know of such a device? I'm sure I could build one but I am looking for a commercially available device. </p>
<p>I found a USB button but the application I am using asks for a COM Port number. Will the USB button work?</p>
|
Serial/RS-232 Button
|
<p>Just connect it to the PSU unless the noise it makes is not acceptable. It is not bad for the fan to run at full speed all the time. The splitters will communicate the same fan speed to both fans.</p>
|
4303
|
2016-07-23T21:54:35.993
|
|case|cooling|
|
<p>A week ago I built my new pc. The case came with 2 in-built 3-pin case fans, and my motherboard only has one 3-pin SYS-FAN connection. One case fan is in top-rear of the case, and the other fan at the bottom-front.</p>
<p>Currently I'm using only the rear-top fan and I do not have problems with heat or airflow. However, I'd like to connect an additional fan, just because I have it.</p>
<p>There are two possibilities for the fan on the front:</p>
<ol>
<li>I can connect it directly to the PSU with a cable like <a href="https://www.onlinekabelshop.nl/molex-4x-3p-fan-kabel-2x-5v-2x-12v-0-30-meter-29256" rel="nofollow">this</a>. The con is that the fan will always rotate at full speed. I do not know if fans are used to rotate at full speed.</li>
<li>I can connect it with a Y-cable like <a href="https://www.conrad.nl/nl/pc-ventilator-y-kabel-2x-pc-ventilator-stekker-4-polig-1x-pc-ventilator-bus-4-polig-015-m-zwart-akasa-976189.html?WT.mc_id=gshop&insert=8J&gclid=CjwKEAjwq8y8BRCstYTm8qeT9mwSJACZGjUk2a1xX9Fc3CWUfkEBGVtNCVs1g_3KscjI1_6y-v6rzBoCWmfw_wcB&tid=211354628_17335160228_pla-218016956228_pla-976189&WT.srch=1" rel="nofollow">this</a> or <a href="https://www.onlinekabelshop.nl/3-pins-case-fan-v-2x-3-pins-case-fan-m-splitter-0-10-meter?id=OKS-54617&gclid=CjwKEAjwq8y8BRCstYTm8qeT9mwSJACZGjUkr17KTjFtrkey2eHO3H-yGnBBe4rJksTGp5gJFBfVjBoCHqzw_wcB" rel="nofollow">this</a>. Will a splitter like that work well? Looking at the second link, it seems that the speed-controlling cable is missing. Is this also the case in the first one?</li>
</ol>
<p>I do not want to use a fan controller.</p>
<p>What do you recommend?</p>
|
Case fans: on PSU or SYS-FAN splitter?
|
<p>Crossfire is a little more forgiving than SLI. You <strong>can</strong> crossfire these cards together, but you should be warned that doing so means being hamstrung by the maximum values of the weaker card.</p>
<p>For example, you will have the computational power of two 370s (minus crossfire overhead), but you will be stuck with a maximum of 2GB of VRAM. Depending on what you are pushing through these cards, your performance could very well decrease significantly.</p>
|
4327
|
2016-07-26T19:50:41.517
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I was wondering if it is possible to use crossfire with the MSi R7 370 4gb and the MSi R7 370 2gb. Thanks in advance.</p>
|
Crossfire Compatibility MSi R7 370 4GB and 2GB
|
<p>The easiest 4k unit was an Acer Laptop quad A4 amd and Intel HD 4800 plugged into external sceptre and went straight to 4k even without the 48 Gbps hdmi cable, very inexpensive it was older unit and power went on it if now would go A10 and the 4800 Intel HD for quality, though using a Sony e series currently, good A4 and HD setup is good inexpensive 4k grapics though, at least quad core and you have to use system config to activate all the cores.</p>
|
4333
|
2016-07-27T15:00:10.253
|
|motherboard|uhd|htpc|
|
<p>This question is here after I ask this one: <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/4275/uhd-compatible-graphic-card">UHD compatible Graphic Card</a></p>
<p>The thing is that I have a HTPC and would like to be able to read UHD movies (since the i3's IGP cannot). As you can see in the previous question, finding a passive GPU with UHD display is impossible for now.</p>
<p>However, during my researches, I found a motherboard that embed a CPU (Pentium J3710) <a href="http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/J3710-ITX/index.us.asp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/J3710-ITX/index.us.asp</a>. Following the description, it should be able to do UHD.</p>
<p>This motherboard is a good start but appart from the Asrock's description, if I go onto the Intel website, I cannot find any information about this CPU and its IGP (espectially the maximum resolution). However, it doesn't support RAID (which is mandatory for me). I didn't find another product like this. Maybe you could ?</p>
<p>Here are my requirements for a motherboard that embed a CPU:</p>
<ul>
<li>Preferably passive and low counsumption</li>
<li>UHD resolution output with hardware h265 decoding</li>
<li>At least 3 SATA connectors (2 for RAID, one for BlueRay). 3 or 6GB/s, I don't mind</li>
<li>My current chassis is Micro-ATX so no ATX, but Micro-ATX or Mini-ITX are ok</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>EDIT</strong>
Obviously, 4k60 is preferred, but any suggestion, even 4k30 is welcome.</p>
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Motherboard with embeded CPU for HTPC
|
<p>Let's start saying that your setup seems really more-than-good, even of i would go with an Intel Core i7-6700K, and 1 SSD (256GB) and 2 HDD (1TB or + each) cause today's games tent to "eat" many and many Gigs.
BUT the i5 processors are a really good deal for gaming and you sure did your counts about what you need for the storage parts, those was only advices from my personal point of view.</p>
<p>As per your motherboard choice, i can point you here:</p>
<p><strong>Asus Z170 Pro Gaming</strong> </p>
<p>It has the latest chipset and it's kinda futureproof 'cause it has the 1151 CPU socket (the i7 mentioned above has the same socket) and it also supports DDR4 Ram (up to 64GB)</p>
<p>There it comes the answer to your "Bonus question";</p>
<p>For the RAM choice, my advice would be:</p>
<p><strong>Kingston HyperX Fury DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) @ 2666MHz</strong></p>
<p>I think there's no much to explain here, everything is in the product description.</p>
<p>That's all, hope this helps and if you need any other advice, feel free to ask! :)</p>
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4334
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2016-07-27T17:30:26.833
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|gaming|motherboard|
|
<p>I'm looking into getting a new gaming pc, but I'm not much of a hardware enthusiast. I know what kind of general specs I want to have, but when it comes to details, especially the mainboard, I'm lost with all the kinda same-y, similar price-range motherboards out there.
Here are my current planned specs:</p>
<p>-GTX 1070 (not sure which model yet, but I think that shouldn't matter for this)</p>
<p>-Intel i5 6600K</p>
<p>-2x8GB RAM (Model would depend on mainboard, no?)</p>
<p>-3 Harddrives (2 SSD's, 1HDD) and a Blu Ray Drive</p>
<p>-ATX Chassis</p>
<p>further considerations:
-I'm not likely going to get into overclocking, but I <em>might</em> upgrade to SLI at a distant point in the future (if that becomes more viable for gaming in the next years).</p>
<p>-I'm not going to try and desperately squeeze the most bang-for-buck out of this computer, but if you recommend something overly expensive I would need good reasoning to consider it.</p>
<p>-The PC is mostly going to be used for gaming, no fancy hobbies that need special considerations.</p>
<p><strong>Question:</strong>
What motherboard would you recommend for my set up? Why specifically this one? Are there other considerations I haven't thought of yet?</p>
<p><strong>Bonus:</strong> What kind of RAM would you get for the motherboard you suggested?</p>
|
Motherboard for intel skylake mid-to-high-range gaming pc
|
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