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<p>HIS 5450 Silence 512MB DDR3 PCI DVI/HDMI/VGA, Make sure you get the PCI version because the also make a PCI-e version.
But good luck finding one.</p>
|
4353
|
2016-07-29T11:41:07.457
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>Do you know of any big brand graphics card that is PCI and win 10 compatible, so with DirectX 9 or later and WDDM 1.0 driver?</p>
<p>It's for an old computer with an AGP 3.3v slot, and a PCI slot. I'm looking for a PCI card rather than an AGP 3.3v one, as I guess PCI is a bit less difficult to find. though any comment with an AGP one is fine.. maybe i'll make AGP 3.3v a separate question.</p>
|
big brand PCI graphics card win 10 compatible?
|
<p>I'm going to recommend the <strong>Lenovo Yoga P40</strong>. After looking at some other stuff from Dell that also offers wacom-style input, I was unable to really get a feel for whether or not certain models supported wacom input or not, so I can't recommend them. Some users appear to have gotten excellent results out of ~800 machines from Dell, but again - I can't be certain which exact model to recommend.</p>
<p>The Yoga is the only reasonably priced, reasonably powerful option on your list. It will be a very powerful machine, is upgradeable, and does satisfy the wacom requirement. While its GPU may not yet be listed by Adobe, I have good confidence that it will work well with Adobe, since it is a professional-tier chip. </p>
<p>The M500M is a mobile chip, so of course it doesn't have all the power you might expect from a standard desktop solution, but it is a midrange professional card and would represent a big step up from your current i5 integrated graphics. Here's how it compares to the primary graphics solutions in your other two options:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyZzy.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyZzy.jpg" alt=""></a>
<em>The 940M represents the approximate GPU of the Surface Book <a href="http://www.cnet.com/news/gaming-on-the-surface-book-what-you-need-to-know/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">as evaluated by Cnet</a></em></p>
<p>The color issue I was also unable to resolve.</p>
<p>The only other advice I can offer is to look into OBS when recording with your Lenovo. It can use the Nvidia encoder built into the M500M to make streaming a breeze.</p>
|
4359
|
2016-07-29T15:55:03.940
|
|laptop|graphics-cards|tablet|
|
<p>I'm running into issues with my current laptop (an old Macbook Pro Retina) while trying to screen record graphic design tutorials so its time for an upgrade.</p>
<p>I don't do much video work beyond the screen recording but might want to and even Photoshop and Illustrator now has some features that utilizes the GPU so a discreet graphics card is preferred. I have a Wacom Intuos Pro that I always use when I'm at home and sometimes travel with. I'm in the market and was going to buy a new monitor for myself but its on the back burner for the moment. Probably later this year or by April of next year (Tax Return) I'll be getting a new monitor for myself to use when at home with a Wide Gamut Color Accurate Display.</p>
<p>My main concerns are color accuracy, brightness, contrast, and enough specs to screen record tutorials on. Since I don't currently own a tablet I decided a 2 in 1 would be really nice to have.</p>
<p>I'll be using it for Digital Painting, Retouching, Sketching, Tethered Photography. At home I can still plug it into my Intuos Pro if need be and once I get the monitor I'd plug it into that as well when at home.</p>
<h2>My research:</h2>
<p><strong>Lenovo Yoga P40</strong></p>
<p>Pros: nVidia graphics card, good price, Wacom AES with 2048 pressure levels.</p>
<p>Cons: I've not been able to get an answer from Lenovo regarding colors. What little I could find has said it only covers about 65% of the sRGB spectrum though I've seen other reports claiming 75% and still some saying 95%. I don't know what's accurate. Also the Graphics Card included is not one listed on the Adobe website.</p>
<p><strong>Lenovo X1 Yoga</strong></p>
<p>Pros: Good price, Wacom AES with 2048 pressure levels, OLED</p>
<p>Cons: Integrated graphics and again not sure about how much of the spectrum it covers</p>
<p><strong>Microsoft Surface Book</strong></p>
<p>Pros: PixelSense Display, nVidia Graphics Card</p>
<p>Cons: for i7 much more expensive than Lenovo, n-Trig instead of Wacom with only 1024 pressure levels, not a lot of information on what that nVidia graphics card actually is</p>
<hr>
<p>What 2 in 1 might you recommend? One of the above? Something I missed?
Also if anyone knows any model at all that has Wacom AES that stores display I'd love to hear - the X1 and P40 are too high end for retailers so I have no way to feel them first.</p>
<p><strong>Update:</strong> I wasn't clear in my original post. I travel, a lot. I'm gone for weeks at a time and want a mobile solution so I can be gone even more of the year. This has me in places with little to no internet frequently. </p>
<p>It seems people also are trying to just give me the cheapest option. Money isn't my biggest concern. Convenience however is a big one so please don't say, well if money is no option buy a desktop, a Cintiq, and a laptop. I'm looking for a single device that can fit the vast majority of my needs.</p>
<hr>
<p>My primary concerns with the aforementioned is I don't know their displays or graphics cards at all. The M500M for example in the Lenovo P40 Yoga seems to be a lower level nVidia card and its not on the Adobe website so I don't know if it will meet my expectations or if I'm wasting money. Likewise the nVidia in the Surface Book is a custom nVidia that I can't find any information out about.</p>
|
What 2-in-1 is suited for high level graphic designers?
|
<p>I can answer your question. In terms of CPU utilization, there are three kinds of programs the average computer user will encounter:</p>
<ol>
<li>Programs that don't use very much CPU at all (most programs)</li>
<li>Programs that use only one thread of a CPU heavily (a few programs)</li>
<li>Programs that use all threads of a CPU heavily/evenly (a few programs)</li>
</ol>
<p>So what does that mean for you? It means that for everyday usage, you will see <strong>absolutely no difference</strong> between the i3 and the i5 in question. While the i3 does indeed have a higher single thread score than the i5 - and suffers from two fewer cores - it uses hyperthreading, so in fact it has four threads it can execute programs on simultaneously, the same as the i5. I'm not going to get into why hyperthreaded threads are not as desirable as fully physical threads here, but suffice it to say this is kind of like a middle ground between a true dual core and a true quad core when it comes to multithreaded performance.</p>
<p>So what programs will actually see a benefit from that i3's higher single thread performance, anyway? The answer for most users is <em>precious few</em>. Older computer games, some parts of photo editing software performance, a few OS operations... I really can't think of anything else. There are lots of programs that are still single-threaded, it's just that most of them fall into category 1 - you won't see ANY benefit past the point of, say, a Pentium 4 @ 3.4ghz! </p>
<p>On the other hand, what programs will see benefits from the full four cores of the i5? Again, the answer for most users is <em>precious few</em>. The OS itself sometimes uses all four threads heavily, zipping/unzipping files is often a heavily multithreaded process, and watching HTML5 video or webms can sometimes see fairly high multicore utilization, especially if more than one plays at a time... but (and this is another wrinkle to the answer) since both of these CPUs in question feature GPUs with Intel's Quicksync video encoding technology built-in, handling some of the most demanding multithread CPU work a modern user might commonly encounter, having to do with HD video playback, encoding, etc - there will be much less of a difference between the two processors than the simple multithreaded benchmark score would intuitively seem to indicate. </p>
<p>The one caveat to all of this is that if you are a <em>true</em> multitasker - if you have more than one demanding task going at any given time - the i5 is probably going to be a better bet for you. For example, if you wanted to zip a large file while simultaneously transcoding media being cast to your TV and using a word processor on a large document - that might warrant the more powerful CPU. </p>
<p>For the average daily user who simply wants to listen to music while watching a youtube video with about 20-30 chrome tabs open in the background and maybe a torrent going - both of these CPUs are huge overkill. You could step all the way down to something like an A8-7600 or a Celeron G1840 without noticing much, if any, performance degradation. In fact, for the average daily user, something like the A8-7600, which can run at a 45W TDP and which sports superior integrated graphics, is probably a much better choice than either of these CPUs, because it is more efficient and sports a more balanced design (a good mix of single-thread, multi-thread, and GPU power).</p>
<p><strong>Choosing between the two processors asked about, however, I'd have to recommend the i3-6320</strong>. It's cheaper, and since nothing else really stands out as being particularly great for the basic home user when it comes to the i5, there's no reason for me to suggest you buy it.</p>
|
4367
|
2016-07-31T03:13:01.320
|
|performance|
|
<p>Modern retail processors are all multi-cored, so my question suppose a multi-core CPU.</p>
<p>Since many tasks are hard or even impossible to be executed in parallelism, I wonder in daily use like watching movie, word processing and browsing (except some extreme complex websites), the performance of single thread is more important? (it shouldn't be a problem for multi tasks as there are at least two cores)</p>
<p>If so, I guess it's smart to buy Intel Core i3-6320 than i5-6500 for daily use, as the single thread score of i3-6320 is higher than i5-6500 according to <a href="https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html" rel="nofollow">PASSMARK</a>. However, you may not tell the difference when in real situation as both CPUs are so fast for daily tasks.</p>
|
Is single thread performance of a CPU more important than overall performance for daily use (watching movie, browsing, etc)?
|
<p>From Amazon.com</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01CDUBEMC" rel="nofollow">5200mAh Long Standby Rugged Mobile Phone with Waterproof Shockproof Dustproof Unlocked Phone for Elderly People Adventurers Army Cellphone(Black)</a></p>
<p>It's $50, and can call and send/receive sms. 5200mAh battery w./ 72 hours talk time and 360 hours standby (as the manufacturer claims). I'm pretty sure the screen is color though.</p>
|
4368
|
2016-07-31T08:24:53.153
|
|mobile-phone|battery-life|
|
<p>I am looking for a basic phone, to make calls and sens/receive SMS.</p>
<p>Nothing more - all else is battery drain, and I am looking for the longest battery life that I can find.</p>
<p>To that end, I am looking for a monochrome screen, if such a thing is still manufactured. </p>
<p>Years back, I remember that Sharp made a line of long battery life phones. Now they don't make phones (if they are even still in business).</p>
<p>I have fond memories of a small, grey, rubberized Nokia - was it an N45? - with a screen barely an inch in diagonal (just three lines of display), and I'd be glad of something similar.</p>
<p>I don't need Daul SIM, Wifi, BlueTooth, GPS, color screen, radio, not even music player; just calls & texts (and those will be few, and far between).</p>
<p>Can anyone recommend soemthing that can be bought online?</p>
<p><a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/256/mobile-phone-used-only-for-calls-sms?rq=1">This question</a> looked good, but it is looking for Dual SIM, which I do not require.</p>
<hr>
<p>[Update] Nokia are <a href="http://www.vanguardngr.com/2017/02/nokia-3310-makes-a-comback/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">relaunching the 3310</a>. 100 hours standby for Eur 59</p>
|
Where can I buy a basic non-smart monochrome phone online? (long battery life)
|
<p>Of the three notebook options you've provided, I'd personally go with i3 5005u. Using cpuboss.com, it is clear that the i3 has significantly better single core and multi-core performance than the Pentium n3700. You probably won't need the extra performance for web browsing and document editing, but it will come in handy in a situation where a little more processing power is needed. Also in performance, the i3 has a higher integrated gpu perfomance than the Pentium, which should help with improving video playback (1080p @ 60fps) and multi-screen. Furthermore, Intel ark says that the i3 supports 16gb of ram compared to 8gb which the Pentium supports. This gives "upgradability" for the future, just in case. </p>
<p>Hope this was helpful :D</p>
<p>(sources: intel ark, cpu boss)</p>
|
4374
|
2016-07-31T09:06:03.440
|
|processor|
|
<p>We're looking for a notebook for my wife. </p>
<p>She will use it for browsing, editing documents (text and spreadsheet) and watching videos. Nothing hard. </p>
<p>Based on our requirements HP G4 with 128 GB SSD seems to be a good choice. </p>
<p>My only question is now CPU as we can by the same notebook with different CPUs:</p>
<ul>
<li>HP 250 G4 with Intel Celeron N3050 for €300</li>
<li>HP 250 G4 with Intel Pentium N3700 for €360</li>
<li>HP 250 G4 with Intel Core i3 5005U for €390</li>
</ul>
<p>(All prices without OS, I'll buy windows 10 separately).</p>
<p>I'm open to pay more if that makes a difference, but not in case if all perform the same for the given use.<br>
Which CPU should I use? </p>
|
Choosing CPU for general use
|
<p>From expeience Gigabyte motherboards have been really easy or more straight forward to get working.</p>
<p>An amazing CPU you can get maybe Intel 6700k, that is really high powered and future proof.</p>
<p>Since this list contains an updated: CPU and Motherboard you will need to get DDR 4 memory.</p>
<p>So lets start with this combiniation:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>CPU:</strong> Core i7 6700k [4 cores][8 threads]: <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B012M8LXQW" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8LXQW</a></li>
<li><strong>MOTHERBOARD:</strong> Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 TH <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0160ITSSU" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0160ITSSU/</a></li>
<li><strong>RAM:</strong> G.SKILL Ripjaws X (this specific package is 2x 8GB sticks): <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006T0CHLA" rel="nofollow">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006T0CHLA/</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Since i do not see a budget, i think these two will be a great combinaton. This is the combination of components i picked out for my fathers hackintosh system. </p>
<p>Here is the link to installation: <a href="http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/success-hackintosh-i7-ga-z170x-ud5-th-i7-6700k-gigabyte-gtx-970.192392/" rel="nofollow">http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/success-hackintosh-i7-ga-z170x-ud5-th-i7-6700k-gigabyte-gtx-970.192392/</a></p>
<p>Now im going to answer your other points from here on.</p>
<ul>
<li><p><strong>Software Development:</strong> 6700k has fast single and multi core performance so it should be a piece of cake for this CPU to compile applications on.</p></li>
<li><p><strong>Photoshop:</strong> 6700K has intergrated graphics cabablities, but since you have a GTX 970, no reall hardware accelerated problems i can see arrising.</p></li>
<li><p><strong>3D Modeling Software:</strong> Just like Photoshop i would say most of these applications have hardware acceleration built so they can take advantage of your GPU, but as far as rendering you should have some pretty decent rendering times of your 3d models.</p></li>
<li><p><strong>Hackintosh:</strong> Like i mention above, my father has these paired components in his hackintosh build, and there have been other people who have had a succesful time with thise two parts.</p></li>
<li><p><strong>Gaming:</strong> 6700k as mentioned before is a powerful single and multicore performing chip and since you have an GTX 970, you are pretty solid since a it seems games are trying to use as mush of the GPU and little of the CPU as possible.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Hope this help. :)</p>
|
4381
|
2016-08-01T19:53:07.547
|
|processor|motherboard|
|
<p>I have an old Dell Studio XPS 8100 that has been updated rather haphazardly. Now I would like more expansion slots and a faster CPU. </p>
<p>I don't know what motherboard + CPU combination would be a good fit for my existing components. Since I will be buying both together, I would like to get something future-proof and a good performance match. I also have existing parts that I would like to keep, so compatability is important. </p>
<p>Intended usage:</p>
<ul>
<li>Software development (fast compile times are a priority)</li>
<li>Photoshop</li>
<li>3D modelling software</li>
<li>4K monitor</li>
<li>Hackintosh for app development</li>
<li>Light gaming</li>
</ul>
<p>The parts I would like to <em>keep</em> are: </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Case</strong> Corsair 750D </li>
<li><strong>GPU</strong> ASUS Nvidia 970GTX</li>
<li><strong>PSU</strong> Corsair RM450</li>
<li><strong>Primary Storage</strong> Samsung Evo 850 SSD</li>
<li><strong>Secondary Storage</strong> Toshiba DT01ACA SATA HDD</li>
<li><strong>RAM</strong> 3x2GB generic Dell ram (will be upgraded later)</li>
</ul>
<p>Parts I would like to accomodate: </p>
<ul>
<li>Dedicated sound card</li>
<li>USB3 ports on my case (currently not connected)</li>
<li>Extra USB3 slots PCIe card</li>
<li>Faster CPU</li>
</ul>
<p>Note that my case is large enough for an extended ATX motherboard, but I don't know if this is worth the cost vs ATX. </p>
|
Choosing a motherboard + CPU combination upgrade
|
<p>What a coincidence, I've also got a RPi Zero. Check this out on Amazon.com,</p>
<p>"<strong><em>Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter</em></strong>"</p>
<p>It's only $8.99. It says it's compatible with RPi and RPi 2. I personally have the wifi dongle that came with the adafruit RPi Zero Starter Pack (which is about $11 w/o shipping). </p>
<p>Hope this is helpful :D</p>
|
4386
|
2016-08-02T02:23:22.190
|
|wifi|raspberry-pi|
|
<p>I would like to use the raspberry pi zero for a internet of things project but it does not have wifi access by default. I would like to use a usb wifi adapter to connect the pi to the Internet. Here are my must haves:</p>
<ul>
<li>be compatible with raspbian</li>
<li>be under $10</li>
</ul>
<p>Here are some features that I would like to have but are not required</p>
<ul>
<li>have compatibility with 5ghz wifi</li>
<li>have a microusb connector</li>
</ul>
<p>I have looked at using a usb wifi adapter with a miniusb to use adapter but that would easily go over $10 and I was wondering if there is anything better.</p>
|
Wifi adapter for raspberry pi zero
|
<ol>
<li>If I were to use 2 way crossfire (two of the same GPU) does that mean I can now use 6 screens (three on each card)?</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>No.</strong> The only way to use the additional 3 video outputs on the other card would be to run it without crossfiring it. You can run multiple GPUs in a computer without needing to crossfire them.</p>
<ol start="2">
<li>If I can only use 3 screens, would I plug the screens into the graphics card closer to the CPU or further from the CPU?</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>It doesn't matter.</strong> AFAIK, crossfire and SLI are smart enough to recognize which card is intended as the master - that is, whichever has the video outs attached.</p>
<ol start="3">
<li>Do I need a crossfire bridge for the graphics cards?</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Not for modern GPUs on modern motherboards which are crossfire certified.</strong> It may also work in other circumstances that are less well-defined, but your GPU and motherboard should not require a crossfire bridge.</p>
<p>Addendum:</p>
<p>I feel like noting that your CPU has its own GPU, and your motherboard has 3 or four video outs of its own. If all you are trying to do is run more than three screens, not all of which will be used for gaming, then you could run up to three screens off of this integrated GPU if you enabled it in BIOS. You would need to install Intel graphics alongside AMD's, but that should present no problem. This way, you could support up to six monitors without needing to add a second GPU.</p>
<p>Additionally, you could add another small GPU with three video outs - like an R7 240 or GT 730 - which could be used alongside your other GPU systems to provide a <em>further</em> 3 screens - up to nine.</p>
<p>NOTE: As it currently stands, your GPUs will all need to use a displayport connection for connecting a third monitor. This is something that needs to have an active adapter dongle attached to it if you will be using it to push a signal to a screen which does not support displayport (e.g. it uses VGA, DVI, or HDMI inputs exclusively).</p>
|
4388
|
2016-08-02T06:05:23.440
|
|graphics-cards|compatibility|
|
<p>I looked around on the Internet for an answer and wasn't able to find one, so I thought I'd ask it here. (3 part question)</p>
<p>Let's say I have one graphics card that can run 3 screens that's also crossfire capable. If I were to use 2 way crossfire (two of the same GPU) does that mean I can now use 6 screens (three on each card)? If I can only use 3 screens, would I plug the screens into the graphics card closer to the CPU or further from the CPU. One last part to the question, do I need a crossfire bridge for the graphics cards? Somewhere I read that sometimes you don't need bridges for multiple grpahics cards (like it's integrated in the mobo or something). Thanks in advance! :D</p>
<p>My hardware:</p>
<p>MSi R7 370 4G</p>
<p>MSi z170a SLI plus (supports up to 3 way crossfire)</p>
|
Does using 2 way Crossfire allow you to use more screens?
|
<p>Compatibility wise, your motherboard will need a PCI Express x16 slot. You need to make sure that it actually fits into the case, since some more powerful GPUs have fans to cool them, and can be fairly large. Lastly, you need to make sure that your power supply has enough headroom above what the existing components are drawing to power your graphics card.</p>
|
4405
|
2016-08-03T18:37:27.123
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I currently purchased a "Sapphire 11244-01-20G Radeon NITRO R9 390 8GB GDDR5" for a 2013 Mac Pro on El Capitan. Unfortunately it would take technical acrobatics to get it to work with the hardware, which I don't feel confident in doing.</p>
<p>I'm fairly new to the hardware game, and would like some kind of modular guide to learning graphics card capabilities and compatibilities.</p>
<p>I understand that this is a HUGE question, but all I'm asking for is a surface level guide that introduces the core concepts and provides the terminology to enable a mostly google savvy person to research the reasoning behind graphics card compatibility for differing systems.</p>
|
What to know to be able to effectively upgrade a graphics card
|
<p>I recommend the <strong><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1108354-REG/amd_100_505724_firepro_w7100_8gb_gddr5.html" rel="nofollow">AMD FirePro W7100 Professional Graphics Card</a></strong>. </p>
<ul>
<li>It supports 4 monitors</li>
<li>It has 8gb DDR5 vRAM</li>
<li>Since it is not made by an OEM we can expect it to conform to AMD spec that hackintosh is relying on in order for it to work</li>
<li>It is rated for less than 150W TDP, so it fits within the 300W envelope your Mac Pro is rated for - you could even have two of them</li>
<li>Since it is a pro card it is particularly suited to the type of work you are doing and is very stable and well-supported compared to gaming cards like the R9 390</li>
<li>It is not hideously expensive compared to other, better FirePro cards available</li>
<li>It is relatively new, so you shouldn't miss out on any newer features like VCE</li>
</ul>
|
4407
|
2016-08-03T20:17:20.347
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I want this card to be able to handle anything I throw at it. I handle multiple file types through the Adobe CC (video, audio, rasterized, vector, and library) simultaneously and have to support 3 monitors. I've already tried the "Sapphire Radeon NITRO R9 390 8GB GDDR5" but I couldn't get it to work without having to jump through hoops I didn't feel confident in jumping through. Any suggestions?</p>
<p><a href="https://support.apple.com/kb/SP652?locale=en_US&viewlocale=en_US" rel="nofollow">Here's the specification for the computer</a></p>
|
8GB graphics card upgrade for Mid 2012 Mac Pro
|
<p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Cardboard-Spider-DIY-Quadruped/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This</a> looks very promising.</p>
<p>It's a crab/spider like device, using cardbaord for legs, and an Arduino to control it.</p>
<p>From the comments on the linked page:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>the servos cost $24 for set of 10 (bought 2 set) & the shield was $7
on Amazon, joystick was $7+shipping on digi-key and the transceivers
were 4/$6.50 on ebay. The Arduino nano and UNO I have along with the
LED, wires, etc.</p>
</blockquote>
|
5422
|
2016-08-05T07:12:45.213
|
|raspberry-pi|arduino|microcontroller|
|
<p>I was playing the old "confuse the cat with a flash-light" game, when I thought that I might like to program a confuse-a-cat robot.</p>
<p>Something, probably with tracks, which can right itself if he flips it over, and which I can program to move randomly around a room, turning at walls, making an occasional sound or flashing a light.</p>
<p>Since I am on a very tight budget, I wondered if there is some cheap kit which I can program ...</p>
<p>Arduino, Raspberry Pi, any platform, so long as it is programmable.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance for your help</p>
<hr>
<p>[Update] my budget is $50, but the less, the better.</p>
<p>How can I get this unheld? It is held as too broad, but I don't really know what I can say, other than:</p>
<ul>
<li>budget $50</li>
<li>programmable</li>
<li>autonomous </li>
<li>wheeled or tracked</li>
<li>can somehow sense obstacles</li>
</ul>
<p>What more can I add? Battery operated, I guess. I didn't actually state that. </p>
<p>What else? Robust & cat-proof? :-)</p>
|
Confuse-a-cat : seeking dirt cheap, wheeled, programmable robot
|
<p>Oh my, a question targeting my hardware experience AND my more than passing interest in cognitive science!</p>
<p>I have a friend who is currently dying from Muscular Dystrophy. In the end stage of this disease, he is barely able to move any part of his body. He and I investigated several consumer-grade EEG devices as a means of him controlling computers (none ended up working for him as well as voice command). In the course of that investigation, we initially rejected the <strong><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00A2UQUXY" rel="nofollow">NeuroSky MindWave Headset</a></strong>, but I am returning to it now as an ideal solution to <em>your</em> problem.</p>
<p>While it has a pretty crappy sensor configuration, it is my understanding that seizures are large events which any EEG machine should be able to detect relatively easily. The upside to this machine is that it is cheap and relatively unobtrusive compared to other available brands. Moreover, this device is able to interface with mobile devices via bluetooth and does have a <a href="http://store.neurosky.com/collections/android" rel="nofollow">developer's kit app for Android</a> available for purchase. I'm not going to go into how you solve the software side of this problem, because this is a hardware recommendation only (as befits the site), but I trust since you are inquiring you'll know where to go from here.</p>
|
5425
|
2016-08-05T13:56:17.340
|
|smartphones|brain-computer-interface|
|
<p>I would like to know, is it possible for a smartphone attached to an arm to catch an epileptic seizure by using the heartbeat or other sensor and automating a phone call or sms when the seizure occurs based on the blood rate? If not, then can this be done by attaching a brain scan helmet our hat accessory connected via Bluetooth to the mobile phone?</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
|
Smartphone accessories/software for catching epileptic seizures
|
<p>They are not expected to reach the same frequencies, though for most overclockers it is close enough that a significant price difference is not warranted.</p>
<p>In silicon chip manufacturing there is a process called <em>binning</em>, wherein tests at the factory sort chips according to the quality of their manufacture. The highest quality chips - the highest "binned" examples - are the ones which will respond most positively to overclocking, because they don't skirt the QA lines on any of their specifications. Those chips are usually not simply thrown back in with the rest of the batch and sold so that some customers get lucky with OCing and others don't - the higher binned chips are used to create the higher-tier SKUs, and within those SKUs, the best of the best are used to create the OEM overclocked models. Those chips are the ones which stand the best possible chance of being monstrously good overclockers - the only pitfall some people fall into is in thinking that the factory overclock indicates the percentage by which they will beat more conventional SKUs - this not an accurate way of thinking, because sometimes OEMs are able to set factory OCs very close to the upper limit of the part's capability. </p>
<p>The last thing to consider is that the OC'd models of GPU often receive some of the best addons an OEM can offer - better caps, better software, backplates, and better cooling solutions. All of that combines to add value to the more expensive models. In some cases, you can see crazy things like OC'd R9 270s outperforming R9 270Xs as a result of this. </p>
<p>The thing to keep in mind when all is said and done, however is this: are you the type of person to worry over your GPU's clockspeed for several weeks, tweaking it and testing it meticulously until you have achieved the best possible result? If not, it probably makes more sense to go for the similar but cheaper model. Factory OCs on their own usually do not offer a sufficient value increase to justify the premiums they are sold at. </p>
<p>I recommend the slower, cheaper version of the card unless you are very passionate about overclocking.</p>
|
5433
|
2016-08-06T18:47:59.933
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>There's a video card that I want to buy (Asus ROG STRIX 1080 GTX) that comes as a regular version (A8G, which I believe is already overclocked compared to the default OEM specs) and an overclocked version 08G. I believe both ship with an easy to use overclocking software program.</p>
<p>The latter is actually only slightly more expensive in terms of MSRP. However, because of the lack of availability, it tends to be much more expensive than the A8G version. </p>
<p>Is there a reason to pay the premium for the 08G or is the A8G expected to reach the same frequencies after manual overclocking without any further drawbacks?</p>
|
Is there a good argument to buying the more-expensive overclocked version of a particular video/graphics card?
|
<p>I just found the perfect (I think) board: <a href="http://ark.intel.com/de/products/78576/Intel-NUC-Board-DE3815TYBE" rel="nofollow" title="DE3815TYBE">an Intel NUC board</a> with a 10.16cm squared area and 28.8mm height.</p>
<p>5W TDP, SATA, Gigabit Ethernet, around $100 (for mainboard and integrated CPU). Pity it needs 12V input, this still has me searching for a battery controller.</p>
<p>It only has 1C/1T at 1.46Ghz, but this should be just enough and already a lot faster than a Raspberry Pi.</p>
<p>There are mini PCI-E expansion boards for at least two additional SATA III connections, with the more expensive ones supporting hardware RAID.</p>
|
5440
|
2016-08-07T18:37:03.123
|
|nas|portable|
|
<p>I would like to build a portable NAS (with one hard drive of I think 4TB). I need a full Linux and I don't want to fiddle around too much to make it work (no patching and compiling my own kernels and stuff like that).</p>
<p>For this I need a</p>
<ul>
<li>small (say like two 2.5" drives on top of each other, plus at most 50%),</li>
<li>low power (not more than 3W idle, preferably less)</li>
<li>SBC (single board computer)</li>
<li>with SATA (one port, preferably III, II is okay too, doesn't need 12V, just for 2.5" drives)</li>
<li>and Ethernet (Gigabit).</li>
<li>Bonus if it has an integrated Li-ion controller (or if you know some separate Li-Ion battery controller board for 5V uninterruptible output).</li>
<li>Bonus if it doesnt have a crapload of unnecessary features/connectors.</li>
</ul>
<p>Raspberry Pi doesnt have enough performance (the limiting factors are USB 2.0 and crappy Ethernet, I think) and mATX/mITX boards are too large. What can you recommend for maximum data throughput? I would like to get at least 40MB/s actual real world throughput.</p>
<p>It should be as cheap as possible. That said, as long as it's significantly cheaper than buying a laptop and ripping off / not using the screen, it's okay. If there is a ready to use NAS (without hard drive/empty enclosure) like that I'm fine with that too.</p>
|
SBC for portable NAS
|
<p>Well, your request doesn't explicitly specify laptop, so I will make a recommendation for a desktop even though I get the strong feeling you really do want a laptop. XPS x8900-2506BLK Intel Core i7 6th Gen 6700 (3.4 GHz) 16 GB DDR4 1 TB HDD NVIDIA GeForce GTX for $889 from Newegg.
And a decent monitor: Asus VE228H 21.5" Full HD HDMI LED BackLight LCD Monitor w/Speakers ASCR 10,000,000:1 $109 from Newegg. You can do a lot with that if you don't mind programming at home. Or, you could use a lightweight device and RDP into the desktop and program away from home.</p>
|
5443
|
2016-08-08T02:44:04.373
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I am a hobbyist programmer and light gamer, and I'm in the market for a new computer. I don't know anything about hardware. I've looked at the Alienware website (as they are the only high-end computers I've heard of), but I've heard you're mostly paying for frills, and I don't need anything flashy.</p>
<p>In addition to web-browsing, I'll be using it for:</p>
<ul>
<li>Programming (Mostly Python)</li>
<li>Blender</li>
<li>Adobe Premiere and Photoshop</li>
<li>Some light gaming (I'm an occasional gamer... nothing too intense)</li>
<li>Unity Game Development </li>
</ul>
<p>It must have:</p>
<ul>
<li>Windows</li>
<li>A Big Screen (my current screen is 17.3 inches, which is perfect)</li>
<li>A Numpad</li>
<li>VGA and HDMI outputs</li>
<li>SD Card reader</li>
</ul>
<p>It would be nice to have:</p>
<ul>
<li>Something under $1000. I can go higher if I have to.</li>
<li>Many, many USB ports</li>
<li>Decent battery life</li>
<li>Something that can take a beating</li>
</ul>
<p>It doesn't have to look flashy, and I don't care about name brands. I'd like it to last for several years.</p>
|
Good Programming and Editing Computer for Under $1000
|
<p>If you are looking for a mechanical keyboard, <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01H6DWV8M" rel="nofollow" title="This Drevo">this Drevo</a> fits all your criteria: it has no number pad, it has backlights, and it's Bluetooth-compatible.</p>
|
5444
|
2016-08-08T13:39:54.733
|
|keyboards|
|
<p>I am looking for a laptop-sized keyboard (similar to those on Dell 15-16" laptops) that would fit in my backpack.</p>
<p>I am looking for recommendations for a wireless back-lit keyboard which also supports bluetooth as I wish to use it with my tablet too.</p>
<p>A combo package with a mouse would be nice as I need a mouse to control my laptop when connected to an external monitor. An integrated touchpad would be preferable & eliminate the need for the mouse. (tough already?)</p>
<p>A plus, if it exists, would be to have a usb-wired functionality which allows it to be used with a usb cable (& charge too?).</p>
<p>Preference is for one without a keypad but I also consider ones with it.</p>
<p>Asking for too much?</p>
<p>Update: I decided o go with cjm's recommendation of the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01H6DWV8M" rel="nofollow">Drevo 71 mechanical keyboard (black with blue switch)</a>. Though its bluetooth performance was a concern as reported by some reviewers but it was the only option that fits all criteria.
I also ordered the "<a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000Q7V0W4" rel="nofollow">TeckNet BM306 Souris Bluetooth mouse</a>"</p>
<p>I will report on the recommendation once I receive it.</p>
|
Laptop-sized Keyboard with Bluetooth, Wireless, & Wired
|
<p>Your question fundamentally breaks down to which motherboard you should go with, because the motherboard will determine the CPU, GPU(s), RAM, and everything else. I'm going to recommend, therefore, that you go with a <strong>dual socket 2011 board</strong>, like this <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157606" rel="nofollow">ASRock EP2C612D16C-4L SSI EEB Server Motherboard</a>, though any other board like it would probably do as well for you.</p>
<p>These boards support a LOT of PCI-E throughput - this particular model supports 3x 16x slots and 2x 8x slots, in a configuration that would allow you to run up to three double-height cards without risers, with the caveat that the top card would need to be an ITX version of whatever card you wanted - these cards are available without a huge price bump for the most of the recent Nvidia GTX lineups. Furthermore, this board supports the socket 2011 HPC Xeon CPUs, which offer extremely performative CPUs with lots of threads for massive parallel work. An example configuration would be something like <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/list/W8D4d6" rel="nofollow">this</a>, where CPU slot 2 is left open and can be <a href="http://www.servethehome.com/answered-cpu-dual-processor-motherboard/" rel="nofollow">filled later</a> (the CPUs are cheapest on the used market - <em><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-E5-2695-V2-ES-QDDK-2-3GHz-30MB-L3-22nm-12Core-Max-Turbo-2-9Ghz-115W-/401165660661?hash=item5d675631f5:g:DM4AAOSwtnpXpFSm" rel="nofollow">vastly cheaper, actually</a></em>). Finally, unlike some other socket 2011 boards, this one does run on DDR4 spec RAM, so that's in line with your request. As it is, it can support up to a theoretical maximum of 1Tb RAM, but more realistically about 512Gb. </p>
<p>Right now, this CPU sits near the absolute top of the performance charts, unless you start getting into E7 Xeons and POWER8/9, I think, and it certainly enjoys a fantastic price/performance ratio thanks to the flood of parts on the used market.</p>
|
5446
|
2016-08-08T17:04:04.543
|
|graphics-cards|motherboard|pc|
|
<p>I used laptops for a while and I am not up to date with the current available hardware.</p>
<p>I'm looking for a new PC mainly for Neural Network computations and some gaming from time to time.</p>
<p>The rig mainly needs strong Graphic Cards for OpenCL/CUDA computations. The CPU must not bottleneck the GPUs. The cpu needs proper single thread performance.</p>
<p>My target is to have a very upgradable workstation and install a relativly cheap CPU and Graphic Card. I want to upgrade the CPU when needed, so the socket should be somewhat futureproof or at least not already outdated. Maybe the i5-6600K on socket 1151 is what I need?</p>
<p>I want a single Graphic Card for now and add more once my Neural Network research progresses. The Motherboard should have at least 4 PCIe slots, at least two of them PCIe x16. That should be enougth room for Graphic Card expansion.</p>
<p>I need to be able to upgrade to at least 64 GB of fast DDR4 RAM, but will use 16 GB for now.
Low lateny ram is favored.</p>
<p>Currently the Software I use for my Neural Network research has no support for AMD cards and requireds nvidias CUDA. So I have to buy nvidia cards. SLI is not needed, since the Cards can run those computations as individual units and Gaming is no priority.</p>
<p>I'm not sure if a consumer mainboard fits my needs well enough. Maybe a Serverboard?</p>
<p>I'm targeting a bugdet of below 1500€ (~$1660) for its first configuration.</p>
|
Upgradable Neural Network workstation on a budget of <1500€ (<$1660) for its first configuration
|
<p>I think you'd have excellent luck with the <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2266" rel="nofollow">Raspberry Pi A+</a> for ~$25. It has excellent documentation, some preexisting <a href="https://github.com/richardghirst/PiBits/tree/master/ServoBlaster" rel="nofollow">servo driver software</a>, and integrated GPIO pins, which are the things you solder the controller wires from your motors to. It does NOT run a real-time environment, so stutter might occur, but for your use case that might not matter. At only $25, it makes sense to try this first and then add something like an <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/50" rel="nofollow">Arduino Uno</a> if stuttering IS a problem, since the Arduino will likely need to communicate with the Pi anyway. The big draw here is really the documentation; this is an incredibly well-documented platform with a lot of active users.</p>
|
5475
|
2016-08-10T20:47:40.463
|
|usb|bluetooth|automation|ergonomics|
|
<p>I'm trying to build a sit-stand desk solution with motors that can be controlled by a computer. I've found some good instructions for building your own <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Height-Adjustable-Desk/" rel="nofollow">electric height adjustable desk here</a>, however, it does not talk about interfacing with a computer.</p>
<p>I'd like to create software on a desktop, laptop, mobile phone, or tablet that interfaces with the motors of the desk, allowing them to be controlled to raise, lower the desk automatically to two or more preset locations as well as being triggered automatically under certain circumstances. I imagine the motors would be connected to a controller that knows their position and can change their position to a known second position and the controller might have a bluetooth capability for integration with a computing device to control it. Alternatively, perhaps a USB connection could be used.</p>
<p><strong>What are some options for controllers that could provide this capability?</strong></p>
|
Looking for programmable controller for linear actuators for use in a standing desk
|
<p>I bought the Plantronics GameCom 788 as my first headset and every other headset I've tried after just felt and sounded terrible. It's the best audio-related purchase I ever made besides my studio monitors.</p>
<p>I can never go back to any other headset.</p>
<p>The sound quality is great, and the microphone quality is honestly astounding. I have a broadcast quality microphone and there is almost zero noticeable difference between them.</p>
<p>Also, the Dolby drivers that come with it just make everything sound so much better. I can't deal with it being off any more.</p>
<p>And just so you know, the GameCom 780 and 788 are the exact same. The only difference is design. I have owned both.</p>
<h3>Technical Details:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Connects via USB cable (works with consoles too)</li>
<li>Open cups give a larger sound stage</li>
<li>Not sure what the ear and headband padding is made of but it's breathable and comfortable.</li>
<li>Very reasonable cost of between £30-50 GBP considering the quality</li>
<li>Licensed Dolby 7.1 surround sound tech that I don't understand but everything sounds way better with the option turned on</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="http://www.plantronics.com/uk/product/gamecom-788" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Official Product Page</a></p>
|
5501
|
2016-08-14T04:14:02.863
|
|gaming|audio|
|
<p>I'm on the hunt for a new pair of gaming headphones with a built-in microphone. I have a few hard requirements.</p>
<p>I need the 'internal' size of the cups to be at least 70mm (my current pair is that size and fits perfectly) and fit a larger head size (I am not sure how to measure that).</p>
<p>I'd like USB or a wireless dongle. Bluetooth would be OK, but I'd need to add Bluetooth to my system. A 3.5mm phone connector is kind of messy for my purposes.</p>
<p>Sound quality should be decent - I'm not expecting audiophile quality sound, but I'd not want my ears to bleed.</p>
<p>It needs to be padded in all the right places - my past few headphones have had completely padded headbands, with fabric rather than <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_leather#Clothing_and_fabric_uses" rel="nofollow">pleather</a> in contact with my head, and it's comfortable. Likewise, pleather, not raw sponge ear cups.</p>
<p>I prefer closed cups over open cups. My parents have gotten into the habit of turning the lights off and on if they need my attention anyway.</p>
<p>My budget is about 300 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singapore_dollar" rel="nofollow">SGD</a> (~220 USD). Local availability in Singapore would be a plus.</p>
|
Comfortable over-the-ear gaming headphones
|
<p>The Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ is said to be released in Q3 2017 and satisfies your requirements. It even supports G-Sync HDR. It'll likely cost around $1999 at launch.</p>
|
5502
|
2016-08-14T06:00:40.887
|
|gaming|monitors|4k|
|
<p>I want to upgrade my current monitor, and I'm looking for something future-proof, seeing that a monitor is something that should last a while (10ish years). </p>
<p>The specs mentioned below are what I came up with, and are pretty much non-negotiable. However, I can not seem to find any monitor that meets all of these requirements. There is always something missing.</p>
<ul>
<li>4k resolution</li>
<li>120Hz+ refresh rate</li>
<li>TN panel</li>
<li>G-Sync enabled</li>
</ul>
<p>Considering Google search can be tricky when looking for specific things, I might just have overlooked one. Does anyone know of a monitor that meets those specs?</p>
|
Monitor with 4k, 120hz+, TN, G-Sync?
|
<p>There is no such thing; the adapter simply translates a copper connection between the mircoSD format and the SD format. It has no logic of its own and therefore will simply be as fast as the card you put into it. However, there <em>are</em> <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/fastest-memory-cards-money-can-buy?BI=572&c3api=0980,110370500933&gclid=Cj0KEQjw0MW9BRDxtYTn2_S699MBEiQAw33y4xX7cP-RQS9Aop-59RDNcPD5efqCAMWKzRilnfZ1CK4aAgSy8P8HAQ" rel="nofollow">faster cards available</a>.</p>
|
5513
|
2016-08-15T19:05:27.480
|
|camera|
|
<p>I was wondering if there is such a thing as a high-speed MicroSD adapter. I ask this because I use a class 3 microSD when I'm recording 1080p video, but since I've been doing this, my camera's on-board cache fills up forcing the video to stop recording.</p>
|
MicroSD Card High Speed Adapter?
|
<p>RE: the Silicon Armor units:</p>
<p>If you're talking about "lifetime" when operating in an ideal environment (good temperature, not a lot of hard impacts or water, mostly sitting still on a desk), none of the technical specs really give us any insight into how reliable the drives inside these enclosures actually are. </p>
<p>Typically, a drive that does not suffer from any significant physical trauma or movement while in use will last for 5 to 7 years if used frequently, assuming there are no design flaws artificially limiting its lifespan. Even with military spec protective casing like these models offer, any hard impacts or significant movement while using it will probably reduce its lifespan by a large amount. Hard drives are too precise of an instrument to be thrown around; components will start to fall apart and lose their precision (and fail soon after) in short order.</p>
<p>The only differences I could discern between the units were the levels of military spec (or lack thereof) certification, and the levels of IPX (or lack thereof) certification. The one that supports MilSpec and IPX7 is probably the best overall protected. That'd be the Armor A80.</p>
<p>Also consider that the disks themselves could be low or high-quality, the firmware / disk controller could be low or high-quality; the connector ports could be low or high-quality; etc. which could affect lifespan of the device. If warranty service is not an option, you might want to shop around for more than one vendor. Also consider the opinions of both the original poster and the commenters <a href="https://www.backblaze.com/blog/enterprise-drive-reliability/" rel="nofollow">here</a> and think about whether an Enterprise-grade disk might be better (in some kind of portable enclosure).</p>
<p>--</p>
<p>Since you didn't state any criteria, for the WD disks I'll go with the My Passport Ultra because it's bigger and I (perhaps illogically) think that a larger disk is more likely to have some kind of padding / armor that'll make it more physically resistant to shock. ;-)</p>
|
5516
|
2016-08-16T05:11:20.030
|
|hard-disk|
|
<p>Which of these external hard drives will you choose to buy if you want a 1 TB memory regarding the fact that the price and the appearance (beauty) is not important? </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.silicon-power.com/web/en_gb/product-59" rel="nofollow">Silicon Power Armor A80 External Hard Drive - 1TB</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.silicon-power.com/web/en_gb/product-55" rel="nofollow">Silicon Power Armor A30 External Hard Drive - 1TB</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.silicon-power.com/web/en_gb/product-56" rel="nofollow">Silicon Power Armor A60 External Hard Drive - 1TB</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.silicon-power.com/web/en_gb/product-60" rel="nofollow">Silicon Power Armor A65 External Hard Drive - 1TB</a> </li>
</ul>
<p>Why and why not the others?<br>
Please just compare these four products and choose between them. </p>
<hr>
<p>And if you want to buy a 2 TB external hard drive, which one will you choose. Again regarding that the price and appearance isn't important? </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=470#Tab3" rel="nofollow">WDBU6Y0020BBK (Western Digital Elements External Hard Drive - 2TB)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=1490#Tab3" rel="nofollow">WDBBKD0020BBK (
Western Digital My Passport Ultra Premium External Hard Drive - 2TB )</a> </li>
</ul>
<p>Why and why not the other?<br>
Please just compare these two products and choose between them. </p>
<hr>
<p>Also I mean to compare the products from a technical view and the most important factor is their lifetime.<br>
I'm living in Iran and I can't use guarantee, supports or anything else.<br>
I just want to buy something and take the most of it?</p>
|
I want to compare some external hard drives model and decide which to buy?
|
<p>Another possible option: the TL-WN951n also seems to meet these requirements. Unconfirmed on Windows 10 but there's a windows 8 driver for it that might be compatible.</p>
|
5518
|
2016-08-16T07:20:03.667
|
|wifi|network-adapter|
|
<p>I'm looking for a wifi adapter that ticks the following boxes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Support for Windows 10 (or if not support then at least a driver that actually works on Windows 10)</li>
<li>Fits in a PCI slot (not PCIe)</li>
<li>Can use the 5GHz wifi band</li>
<li>Works with 802.11n or newer</li>
</ul>
<p>Does anything like that exist? I'm currently using an ancient TL-WN851N which mostly does the job but is only capable of using the 2.4GHz band.</p>
|
Are there any 802.11n+ 5GHz PCI wireless adapters with working drivers for windows 10?
|
<p>I ended up buying <a href="https://www.phonepartworld.com/lg-nexus-5X-lcd-screen-digitizer-with-frame" rel="nofollow">the whole LCD assembly w/ frame</a> <strong>($52)</strong>:</p>
<p><img src="https://www.phonepartworld.com/image/cache/data/Products/LG/Nexus%205X/1-LG-Nexus-5X-LCD-Screen-Display-Digitizer-Replacement-Assembly-with-frame-4-500x500.jpg" alt="img credit PhonePartWorld"></p>
<p><sup>Image credit <a href="https://www.phonepartworld.com/lg-nexus-5X-lcd-screen-digitizer-with-frame" rel="nofollow">https://www.phonepartworld.com/lg-nexus-5X-lcd-screen-digitizer-with-frame</a></sup></p>
<ul>
<li>It seems to be OEM; everything fit perfectly and it worked without any fiddling</li>
<li>It was fairly easy to install; I didn't need to break out a heat gun to remove the front glass itself. The hardest part was removing the back cover, which was done fairly easily with a flathead screwdriver and a credit card.</li>
</ul>
<p>The only problem I have now is the volume buttons are a little harder than normal, which I suspect is a mistake I made putting it back together. I'll probably tear it apart again to fix that. </p>
|
5523
|
2016-08-17T01:48:34.123
|
|android|touchscreen|
|
<p>I believe this is on-topic as per <a href="https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/266/1">https://hardwarerecs.meta.stackexchange.com/a/266/1</a> (it's a bigger electronic part). I'm up for debate on it, though.</p>
<hr>
<p>I have a Nexus 5X, and I just broke the screen. This makes me unhappy, and it's not usable.</p>
<p>I've heard that the LED screen is fused to the glass, which might make this harder. That said, I'd still like to attempt a repair before buying a whole new phone.</p>
<p>My requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Budget of up to $50, but I'm flexible on that. Less is better.</li>
<li>OEM is best; I'd rather not have some kind of knockoff. I'm flexible on that too.</li>
<li>Easier to install is ideal, but I'm not afraid of using a screwdriver.</li>
</ul>
<p>What's the best replacement?</p>
|
Screen replacement for Nexus 5X
|
<p>I recommend the <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704133" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TP-LINK TL-WDN4800</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAmcS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAmcS.jpg" alt="TP-LINK TL-WDN4800"></a></p>
<p>This card uses PCI-E. According to your board <a href="http://www.asrock.com/mb/intel/z77%20pro3/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">specs</a>, you have a slot for this. You do mention your card blocks the neighboring slot - you will need to check that though, as the PCI-E slot is next to one of the slots you'd put a video card in. </p>
<p>Other features include:</p>
<ul>
<li>Dual band (it operates on both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands). You should be able to connect to almost any wireless network.</li>
<li>Compatible with wireless networks that use the B/G/N(2.4Ghz) and A/N(5GHz) protocols</li>
</ul>
<p>The biggest down side is that it is slightly above your budget at $40 (which Google tells me is currently 35.50€). </p>
<hr>
<p>As a side note, if you are willing to spend more, there is a new version of this card available too. It is the <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704274" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TP-LINK Archer T6E AC1300</a>. The major difference is that this also supports the newer AC protocol. </p>
|
5527
|
2016-08-17T09:05:41.377
|
|gaming|network-adapter|
|
<p>I'm looking for a possibility to make my desktop WiFi compatible. Currently I'm using a USB-stick that connects to the router, but it's not the best solution as it sometimes loses connection and isn't made for continuous service. </p>
<p>Thus I started looking and found that PCI cards have better performance. My current pricing wish would be around 30€, but it wouldn't be a big deal if it cost more. My Mainboard is an ASRock Z77 pro4 and the only PCI slot I'm using is for my graphics card (This graphics card blocks the neighboring PCI slot).</p>
<p>I want to sometimes play online with the card, so connection quality should be as good as possible and several hours of operation should be no problem. I'm using Win7 and (arch)Linux. </p>
<p>Note that I'm not up to date on the PCI standard, so I use PCI to refer to PCI-e, 2.0 and 3.0 interchangeably.</p>
|
PCI(e?) WiFi card
|
<p>This somewhat depends on the compiler, linker, and interpreter. If you are using a framework that is optimized for a certain CPU then you most likely want to go for that CPU architecture.</p>
<p>At the assembly level, they both use the same instruction set and there isn't a distinct advantage. With C++, if you use something like Visual Studio, I found a site that performed benchmarks on Windows 8 - VS 2012 - Firefox compile. Here are the results: <a href="http://www.anandtech.com/bench/CPU/503" rel="nofollow">benchmarks</a>. Although this shouldn't be a definitive stamp of success for Intel since it is somewhat dated, for other benchmarks you can find on that site, Intel does win in almost all cases with the i7 architecture. So although you don't really care about graphics, other applications you may run on your machine may have noticeable differences in performance in comparison.</p>
<p><strong>EDIT</strong>: I've noticed the question has been updated. Because of your specific requirements choices, I would definitely go with Intel. Now, between the two if you are going to utilize multi-core processing, then the Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4 will be optimal. Looking at this link: <a href="http://www.cpu-monkey.com/en/compare_cpu-intel_xeon_e5_2620_v4-643-vs-intel_core_i7_5820k-440" rel="nofollow">Core i7 vs Xeon</a> you can see that in terms of multi-core processing Xeon performs better in benchmarks.</p>
<p>One last thing, if price is a factor at all the Core i7-5820K can be considered over the Xeon. Just looking at a quick price check on Google between the two, the Core i7 is cheaper.</p>
|
5533
|
2016-08-17T16:43:03.570
|
|processor|desktop|
|
<p>Is there a distinct hardware advantage between CPU's? My specific requirement will be for C++ coding and high end numerical analysis. I am building a new desktop system and considering the advantages of AMD vs Intel. Since graphics are of little concern, I'm having difficulty making that determination via google.</p>
<p>Specifically, I'm trying to determine which of the following CPUs I should go with:</p>
<ul>
<li>AMD Opteron 6378</li>
<li>AMD FX-9590</li>
<li>Intel Xeon E5-2620 v4</li>
<li>Intel Core i7-5820K</li>
</ul>
<p>I will be compiling software and using matlab and mathematica to do HPC. </p>
|
CPU Architecture
|
<p>The only thing that I can find that comes close to your specifications is this:
<a href="http://www.newegg.com/Hard-Drive-Enclosures/SubCategory/ID-92?Tid=8040" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI 14.0" GS43VR</a></p>
<ol>
<li>14" screen</li>
<li>16GB DDR4 (expandable)</li>
<li>Internal m.2 SSD (base of 128GB, can be upgraded to desired size)</li>
<li>Internal 2.5" SATA III (can be upgraded)</li>
</ol>
<p>The easiest thing I can think of for the keyboard situation, is to just get a normal desktop keyboard and type with that. First reason: Your system WANTS compared to what is available in reality, is not jiving. Second reason....there are keyboards that can be customized beyond that of built in keyboards on the market.</p>
<p>As far as the battery life, that is something that hardly ever lives up to even the manufacturer ratings. Just like rated MPGs on cars, it all depends on the system use. </p>
<p>I came as close as I could find to a specs matching system. You may like the recommendation, then again you may not. I know it does not fully match your specs.</p>
|
5546
|
2016-08-19T00:48:23.013
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I am looking for a laptop with the following specifications. I have done a lot of searching but can't find anything that meets my requirements. </p>
<p>I'm willing to spend $3k, but after that becomes questionable and I have an absolute limit of $5k.</p>
<p>I need something light as I carry it around a lot but I need something powerful as I run VMs and develop various memory hungry Java server processes.</p>
<p>I feel like the answer might be found via a manufacturer that enables you to customise a model that doesn't quite meet the specs in its default configuration but will after maxing out all the configuration options. However, that makes searching for it with a search engine difficult.</p>
<p><strong>Minimum Specifications</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Skylake CPU i5/i7 (main concern is battery life though)</li>
<li>16 GB RAM</li>
<li>14" screen</li>
<li>512 GB SSD</li>
<li>Less than 4lbs</li>
<li>6+ hours battery life</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Good to have but not essential</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Backlit keyboard</li>
<li>2+ USB3 ports</li>
<li>VGA output</li>
<li>HDMI output</li>
<li>Ethernet port</li>
<li>Built in webcam</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Extra Dealbreakers</strong></p>
<p>Must run Windows OS - cannot be a Mac</p>
<p>I use a lot of keyboard shortcuts so the keyboard layout is important to me. The following are dealbreakers:</p>
<ul>
<li>Keyboards that have the Fn key outside the Ctrl key (almost all Lenovos - not sure if anyone else) </li>
<li>Keyboards that don't have separate Home/End/PageUp/PageDown keys</li>
</ul>
<p>See this image of the LG Gram 14 that requires you to press Fn and an arrow key for these buttons
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3ZEg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3ZEg.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><strong>Already Rejected</strong></p>
<p>These caught my eye but I rejected them for the reasons below,</p>
<p><a href="http://www.lg.com/us/laptops/lg-gram-14Z950-A.AA3GU1-ultra-slim-laptop" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG Gram 14</a> - Only 8GB RAM and annoying keyboard</p>
<p><a href="http://www.fujitsu.com/fts/products/computing/pc/notebooks/lifebook-u904-red-edition/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fujitsu U904</a> - Only 10GB RAM and Haswell processor. Very light and cool looking though!</p>
|
High End Lightweight Laptop
|
<p>Get the <strong><a href="http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-mx-master-wireless-laser-mouse-black/4106015.p?id=1219621556487&ref=199&loc=8BacdVP0GFs&acampID=1&siteID=8BacdVP0GFs-SWOiOt0giGlgLWzpN4uMRQ" rel="nofollow">Logitech - MX Master Wireless Laser Mouse</a></strong>. It's got a good bluetooth-based connection technology that is dead simple to use, it has a thumb button, and it enjoys a decent DPI for twitch shooting like Overwatch. I would actually recommend not getting too crazy with the buttons for games like Overwatch, because you don't want to be accidentally setting off ultimates or things like that in hectic situations.</p>
|
5551
|
2016-08-19T10:18:33.853
|
|mice|
|
<p>Budget $200. Well, $50 to $200.</p>
<p>What should I buy?</p>
<p>I want it to be bluetooth mouse.</p>
<p>It must have left thumb button.</p>
<p>What would be great? The best? Several?</p>
<p>Wireless. By bluetooth is better so I do not need to plug another stuff. </p>
<p>I want to play overwatch. Basically I need the thumb button for quick melee attack.</p>
<p>Additional buttons are fine though I am not sure about the use. Maybe the more buttons the merrier. Maybe not.</p>
<p>Touch screen like apple's mouse is great. I want wheel for easy scrolling. But if the wheel is replaced by something like touch screen it'll be even better.</p>
<p>This seems to be a start.</p>
|
Recommend me a good gaming mouse?
|
<p>OK, so the <em>better</em> answer for you is the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008U5W3WK" rel="nofollow">Atheros AR9287 mPCI-E</a> card. It is:</p>
<ul>
<li>Atheros, so well-supported in Linux</li>
<li>Can run two modes simultaneously via MIMO</li>
<li>mPCI-E, so it has the faster interface and the location in the laptop less likely to incur damage</li>
<li>Costs way less</li>
</ul>
<p>It is only B/G/N, does this matter?</p>
<p>One final caveat - sometimes laptop makers put in whitelists in their BIOS to prevent people from changing the mPCI-E card in their machine. You should find out if your model has such a whitelist and either circumvent it by flashing a non-proprietary BIOS or else get the USB stick option.</p>
|
5559
|
2016-08-19T22:33:15.260
|
|usb|linux|wifi|
|
<p>I am trying to turn an old laptop into a wireless router/repeater. The laptop's built in card is not working correctly so I can't use it. What I am looking for is a USB WiFi card that supports simultaneous AP and normal mode so I can both connect to WiFi and provide it. </p>
<p>I currently have a card that supports only one of those modes at a time so if the performance is much better with two separate cards than I can do that but I would prefer to use only one card.</p>
<p>Edit:
The laptop also has a full length mini pci-e slot so I can also use a mpci-e wifi card.</p>
|
Linux software ap card
|
<p>This fundamentally boils down to a motherboard question - what is the cheapest motherboard that can inexpensively support at least 512Gb RAM. Finding the absolute cheapest would be difficult, but I can suggest one that will not disappoint in making your total system cost a lot less than $13,000 (disgusting, innit?). Really this is going to come down to how great your ebay skills are, because the cost is going to utterly depend on the RAM modules you can acquire -and while you can reliably buy high-capacity DDR4 in stores for relatively cheap, you can <em>sometimes</em> find high-capacity DDR3 for cheap enough to justify that route. I will provide solutions for both paths. </p>
<p><strong>First, the DDR4 build</strong> - it depends on the <strong><a href="http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=MB-10PED16&c=CJ" rel="nofollow">Asus Z10PE-D16</a></strong>. Please note that the rest of the build surrounding this motherboard is only to give you an idea of total system cost and likely configuration, and may not reflect a "good" design for your particular use case (Since I have no idea what you're doing, I'm just building it as I would for a sort of general use case in the vicinity of what you appear to be trying to accomplish).</p>
<pre><code>PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Vw94d6
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Vw94d6/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2603 V3 1.6GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor ($179.61 @ Amazon)
CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2603 V3 1.6GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor ($179.61 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus Z10PE-D16 SSI EEB Dual-CPU LGA2011-3 Narrow Motherboard ($389.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston ValueRAM 32GB (1 x 32GB) Registered DDR4-2133 Memory ($162.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: MyDigitalSSD Super Cache 2 64GB M.2-2242 Solid State Drive ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon HD 5450 1GB Video Card ($17.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($90.98 @ Directron)
Case Fan: NZXT FN-200RB 166.2 CFM 200mm Fan ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Scythe SY1225DB12SH 110.3 CFM 120mm Fan ($14.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Scythe SY1225DB12SH 110.3 CFM 120mm Fan ($14.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $3814.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-21 03:54 EDT-0400
</code></pre>
<p><strong>For the DDR3 route</strong>, I recommend the <strong><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Supermicro-H8DG6-F-O-Dual-Socket-G34-AMD-SR5690-V-2GbE-Extended-ATX-/172226222900?hash=item28197b9b34:g:alIAAOSwmtJXTpz7" rel="nofollow">Supermicro H8DG6-F-O</a></strong> (sorry I can't put it in block quote because I needed links in there):</p>
<p>PCPartPicker part list: <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ytc9NN" rel="nofollow">http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ytc9NN</a>
Price breakdown by merchant: <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ytc9NN/by_merchant/" rel="nofollow">http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ytc9NN/by_merchant/</a></p>
<ul>
<li>Motherboard: Supermicro H8DG6-F EATX Dual-CPU G34 Motherboard ($537.99 @ SuperBiiz) </li>
<li>Storage: Sandisk ReadyCache 32GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($58.17 @ Amazon) </li>
<li>Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.00 @ Amazon) </li>
<li>Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.00 @ Amazon) </li>
<li>Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.00 @ Amazon) </li>
<li>Video Card: PowerColor Radeon HD 5450 1GB Video Card ($17.98 @ Newegg) </li>
<li>Case: Thermaltake Core V51 ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg) </li>
<li>Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($90.98 @ Directron) </li>
<li>Case Fan: NZXT FN-200RB 166.2 CFM 200mm Fan ($18.89 @ OutletPC) </li>
<li>Case Fan: Fractal Design HF14-BK 118.2 CFM 140mm Fan ($17.99 @ Newegg) </li>
<li>Other: <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114137" rel="nofollow">AMD Opteron 6136</a> ($5.49)</li>
<li>Other: AMD Opteron 6136 ($5.49)</li>
<li>Other: <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114137" rel="nofollow">Dynatron A13</a> 60mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler ($29.99)</li>
<li>Other: Dynatron A13 60mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler ($29.99)</li>
<li>Other: 16x <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114137" rel="nofollow">AXIOM LV409672A8D3L13811 32GB RDIMM LDDR3</a> ($2279.20)</li>
</ul>
<p>Total: $3302.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-21 04:11 EDT-0400</p>
<p>Again, if what you say is really true and you don't need to worry about CPU performance, then this latter option might actually be a really cool buy if you can hunt down the right parts and prices. Currently there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of 1x32gb DDR3 RAM going around at acceptable prices, but if you can source that then you've pretty much got it made.</p>
<p>I might also note that with 512gb of RAM in play, you're almost certainly going to want ECC RAM - both of my options are ECC - and you'll also want to consider the sanity of whatever it is you're doing. Chances are there's some clever way to cache or distribute your data so that it doesn't have to ALL live in memory simultaneously on a single machine. If you can figure that problem out then you can save a bundle.</p>
|
5570
|
2016-08-21T05:46:44.767
|
|motherboard|memory|
|
<p>I am working on a project that needs a huge amount of memory about 512GB. The processor is not very important and can be an Intel Xeon v3 3.4GHZ. </p>
<p>Is it possible to build a computer with this amount of memory?
what motherboard has enough slots for this memory size?
I read <a href="http://www.techspot.com/review/1218-affordable-40-thread-xeon-monster-pc/" rel="nofollow">this article</a>, but their suggested workstation has just 64GB.</p>
<p>I do not want to buy an HP H840 workstation that can cost at a crazy price like $13000(!!!).</p>
<p>I am looking for the cheapest workstation form factor motherboard which can hold 512gb of RAM with a total system cost as low as possible.My budget is about $2700.</p>
<p>Any suggestion is really appreciated.</p>
|
need a workstation for a memory-bound application as cheap as possible
|
<p>Looking through the <a href="http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-27-inch-monitor/" rel="nofollow">wirecutter's picks for best 27 inch monitor</a>, they've suggested the p2715H.</p>
<p>I'm a firm beliver in higher pixel density for working on text and graphics, but size has a quality on its own. 27 inches to me is 'ideal' for working on a single screen at my typical working distances (I use dual screens, but context switch, or move back a little).</p>
<p>The rest of the features of the 2415H is true here - factory colour caliberation and consistancy checks, and the same very flexible. Its got thin bezels and its a good, solid workhorse monitor if you have the deskspace. I'd note many people, including <a href="https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-ips-lcd-revolution/" rel="nofollow">Jeff Atwood</a> use one or more 27" monitors.</p>
<p>I'd consider the P2715Q a step up - when Ihad a 660, I was gaming at 1440p and doing many other things at 4k. Its worth a look as well.</p>
|
5578
|
2016-08-21T21:43:57.200
|
|gaming|monitors|
|
<p>What would you recommend for daily, heavy use monitor? It'll be used mainly for programming, with breaks for gaming (grpahics GeForce GTX 960 4GB) and good series/films. Important are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Resolution: HD, WUXGA or WQHD (1080p - 1440p)</li>
<li>24 - 27 inch</li>
<li>Good color quality with evenly distributed back-light</li>
<li>Reliable - my current Eizo lit alredy 27000 hours with nothing but one bad pixel, that's the lifespan I'd expect</li>
</ul>
<p>I found Eizo EV2450-BK and Dell U2515H to fit my requirements (that's also price range +/- 100$). What do you think you'd buy?</p>
<p>[EDIT]
Exact price up to 450$</p>
|
Monitor for multimedia and programming
|
<p>The benefit of framerate is not lineary increasing, as your eye does not notice the difference between 60 and 120 Hz as succintly as 30 vs 60 (if at all). Please consult: </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWEpIwNDeCA" rel="nofollow">Can the Average Gamer See More than 60Hz??? NCIX Tech Tips</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhSHeYT2U70" rel="nofollow">How Many FPS Can Your Eye See?</a></li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diminishing_returns" rel="nofollow">The law of diminishing returns</a></li>
</ul>
<p>On the other hand, human eye has effective resolution of about 8 Mpx (please see for detais: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I5Q3UXkGd0" rel="nofollow">What Is The Resolution Of The Eye?</a>). The problem whether you see a difference is well discussed here: <a href="https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Can-you-see-the-difference-with-a-4K-monitor-729/" rel="nofollow">Can you see the difference with a 4K monitor?</a> (brief: yes, you'll definietely see a difference, unless monitor is too small/you sit too far).</p>
<p>It's a question worth thinking about, but I'd go for crisp picture or would consider something in between: ex. WQHD (1440p) resolution and 120 Hz. Also, keep in mind, that color quality and even back-light are also very important factors.</p>
|
5580
|
2016-08-22T02:01:26.140
|
|monitors|uhd|
|
<p>I'm currently using a 1080p-resolution monitor with a refresh rate of 60 Hz. Suppose I want to drive a 24" adaptive-sync and lightboosted TN monitor with a +10% overclocked nVidia 1080 GTX GPU: Does 4k@60Hz make more sense than a 1080@144Hz? </p>
<p>I have seen a Youtube video of a PC gamer saying that he <em>enjoyed</em> gaming in 144 Hz, but he was <em>amazed</em> by 4k. However, I've also read a review by someone saying that you won't enjoy the 4k resolution until you hit 40" as the pixel density is too high at lower screen sizes.</p>
<p>Of course we're comparing apples and oranges here, but I would still like to ask someone informed whether an increased <strong>pixel density</strong> will <strong>satisfy the <em>average</em> gamer more</strong> than the increased <strong>refresh rate</strong>. </p>
|
At 24", does a 4k resolution at 60 Hz offer a better "gaming experience" compared to a 1080p resolution at 144 Hz?
|
<p>What you're looking for is called a <strong>Video Wall Controller</strong>. These are the boxes that you see behind the massive arrays of screens showing a single composited image in the big chain stores. They usually run around a $1000 or more. Without knowing the monitors involved I can't make a recommendation on which one to use. I know of no such products priced at private consumer levels, since usually that part of the market just uses a PC with two video outs to achieve the same thing (except, of course, that the video source has to come from the PC. You might try to rig up something with an HDMI-in capture card being passed out to two HDMI ports off a PC, but you wouldn't probably get true extended screen support - more like you'd have to span the image in a window drawn across both screens. Alas).</p>
|
5583
|
2016-08-22T18:10:11.123
|
|hdmi|video-adapters|
|
<p>Is there a piece of hardware that can connect two monitors to a single video port? I want to fool an Xbox into thinking that it's connected to a single monitor, when in fact that display area is made up of two monitors on top of each-other. Something like this:</p>
<pre><code>--------------
| |
| |
| |
|------------|
| |
| |
| |
--------------
</code></pre>
<p>The Xbox would only see then outer rectangle, not realizing that there are two monitors present. Does such an adapter exist?</p>
|
Split XBox Screen across multiple monitors
|
<p>OK, I recommend the <strong><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ASRock-Rack-J3160-ITX-Intel-Celeron-J3160-DDR3-SATA3-USB3-0-A-V-GbE-/381706767471?_trksid=p2352135.m2548.l4275" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASRock J3710-ITX Mini ITX Pentium J3710 Motherboard</a></strong>. This motherboard features an integrated quad core CPU that might provide the performance you're looking for - it's very difficult to say because you haven't given us a whole lot of information about the programs/dev environments you're using, but anyway it's significantly faster than your current CPU. Outfit this with at least 8gb RAM and a good SSD if you'll be caching any of that A/V data to disk.</p>
<p>Given that you're using OpenCV, it might be worth it to get an Athlon 5370 and board instead, as this would allow you to use the relatively powerful AMD GPU on that 5370 to accelerate your OpenCV work via OpenCL.</p>
|
5606
|
2016-08-25T18:00:05.623
|
|processor|memory|signal-processing|brain-computer-interface|
|
<p>I have been doing some hands on in AI and Computer Vision lately (using OpenNLP, OpenCV, etc). All these experiments were done on my PC (Intel dual core 8GB DDR2). But, now I want to use some processing unit only for AI purposes (no need of monitor, keyboard, mouse etc.). I am planning to use this processor wirelessly connected with network of webcams and microphones throughout my house (let's see a network of 4-5 cameras and microphone) in a star topology with CPU/IC as central server and cameras as nodes.</p>
<p>I am not good with hardware requirements and compatibility of various parts. So, can someone recommend any minimalist required CPU configuration or any IC, which can get this job done. And, what other components will be needed along with CPU/IC (for e.g motherboard)? Or at least point me in the direction where I can find my answers? Any help is appreciated.</p>
|
CPU (or IC) recommendation for independent use (without PC components) for Speech recognition and computer vision over Wifi
|
<p>Although my personal preference is to remove the DVD drive, replace it with a caddy, and drop an SSD into that caddy (possibly with caching involved), a simpler, somewhat slower option that allows you to retain your DVD drive is to replace your HDD with an SHDD. I recommend the <strong><a href="http://www.bestbuy.com/site/seagate-1tb-internal-serial-ata-iii-serial-ata-ii-solid-state-hybrid-drive-for-laptops-multi/8808633.p?id=1218897640424&ref=199&loc=8BacdVP0GFs&acampID=1&siteID=8BacdVP0GFs-fHEa_iB9MXI.aQygONjP5w" rel="nofollow">Seagate - 1TB Internal Serial ATA III/Serial ATA II Solid State Hybrid Drive for Laptops</a></strong>. This drive has 1Tb of slow storage, backed up with 8Gb of MLC flash, which it uses to automagically cache the rest of the drive according to how you use it. Think of the performance as being somewhere between your standard HDD and SSDs.</p>
|
5623
|
2016-08-28T00:13:36.130
|
|laptop|memory|ssd|
|
<p>I have a Lenovo Z50 laptop and I play games like NFS and DOOM. I also run some simulations using Octave.</p>
<p>CPU: Core i7-4500</p>
<p>RAM: 8GB</p>
<p>HDD: 1TB 5400rpm</p>
<p>I am looking for upgrading my laptop with reasonable price. the first option that comes to my mind is to increase ram to 16GB or install an SSD or replace HDD with a faster one. the later is not a good idea because of heat and power consumption.
Any suggestion?</p>
|
Lenovo Z50-70: possible upgrade
|
<p>There is no reason you could not have a standard IBM-PC format motherboard using an ARM CPU. Simply obeying the form factor (which nowadays includes not only mounting holes, but a set of backside connectors for video, USB, Net, etc.) as well as being PCI compliant would do it. Clearly the drivers and the software would be custom, but a Linux distro could do that easily, and Windows will soon run on ARM as well.</p>
|
5626
|
2016-08-28T07:27:05.677
|
|processor|motherboard|
|
<p>Because ARM processors are much less expensive and power-consuming, I want to use them in a PC with PC-type RAM and hard-drive.</p>
<p>Is there a motherboard the allows to use ARM processors with PC-based RAM and hard-drive?</p>
|
Is there a motherboard that supports ARM processors?
|
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00429N19W" rel="nofollow">Product</a></p>
<p>This seems to be what you are looking for. It is pure sine wave output, a modest price of $140, 1000 VA, and it is highly rated. It can't be internationally shipped from US Amazon, but this matches your criteria.</p>
|
5628
|
2016-08-28T10:57:03.273
|
|ups|
|
<p>I'm looking for a UPS that produces a pure sine wave at the output because my PSU has active Power Factor Compensation and from what I read, it doesn't work with pseudo-sine wave output.</p>
<p>So, my system will draw a maximum of 430W with full load. I want just enough time to hibernate the system before it runs out of power. The UPS I'm looking for needs to be:</p>
<ul>
<li>atleast 700 VA;</li>
<li>pure sine output;</li>
<li>under 150 €;</li>
<li>quality.</li>
</ul>
|
UPS with pure sine wave
|
<p>For everyone with the same problem: i did it with an extra sat>ip server, the digibit r1. It can be used in tvheadend seamlessly.</p>
|
5649
|
2016-08-30T20:10:43.390
|
|usb|hdtv|
|
<p>I want to build up a tvheadend server with 4 possible clients over unicable. So i have a unicable source with 4 channels which i want to pass to a server. Is there any affordable usb receiver, which can handle input from 1 cable with four simultaneous streams of DVBS2?</p>
|
Unicable usb receiver with multiple tuners
|
<p>Are you looking for this product: <a href="https://www.fourfaith.com/f3436h-vehicle-wifioperatingrouter.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.fourfaith.com/f3436h-vehicle-wifioperatingrouter.html</a>? I have bought this product and it is of very good quality.</p>
|
5652
|
2016-08-31T02:55:46.963
|
|wifi|router|portable|mobile-workstation|
|
<p>Our family does long distance car travel 2 or 3 times a year. I have young kids and I load up movies and tv shows spread across all tablet and phone devices. What I'd prefer do is run a wifi router in the car that has attached storage. The router can also support 3/4G network.</p>
<p>I found <a href="http://en.four-faith.com/f3a36h-mediawifioperating-marketingrouter.html" rel="nofollow">http://en.four-faith.com/f3a36h-mediawifioperating-marketingrouter.html</a> but they seem to be the manufacturer intended to be used by wholesalers. </p>
<p>Does anyone know where I can buy such gear retail? I live in Australia. I've searched and searched but can't find a thing.</p>
<p>Alternatively, can what suggestions are there to enable my requirements?</p>
|
Car / bus 12 volt wifi router external storage
|
<p>It looks like normal older analog CCTV cameras pose no significant problem, they function basically the same regardless on manufacturer.</p>
<p>The problem arises with HD-SDI, HD-TVI, HD-CVI, AHD formats and IP cameras and different levels of built-in ONVIF support.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.supercircuits.com/lp/compare-hd-analog-video-formats" rel="nofollow">http://www.supercircuits.com/lp/compare-hd-analog-video-formats</a></p>
<p>So I have chosen </p>
<p><a href="http://www.hikvision.com/en/Products_accessries_364_i5792.html" rel="nofollow">HIKVISION DS-7208/16HQHI-F2/N</a> or similar, because it supports analog, AHD and HD-TVI cameras and a range of ONVIF IP cameras too. (Checked it with a new AVTECH IP camera and worked ok).</p>
<p>Dashua DVRs support different standard HD-CVI, so it is a matter of choice. HD-SDI cameras are generally a problem. Dashua has better versatility because their hybrid DVRs allow for connecting more IP cameras than HIKVISION. I like Dashua playback interface better, but some functions like setting expired time for streams work better on HIKVISION. Dashua does not allow setting auto deleting old records per stream, HIKVISION does.</p>
<p>Other relevant manufacturers like PINETRON do not offer those hybrid DVR models or I have not found it.</p>
|
5654
|
2016-08-31T13:03:20.523
|
|video-camera|video-capture|
|
<p>We are cosolidating video surveillance systems on our sites.</p>
<p>I am
looking for an IP enabled DVR/NVR device that would be capable of handling video signal from
different CCTV BNC analog cameras (presumably all PAL) with different
resolutions CIF, DCIF etc., till max 720 x 480. from different manufacturers (Avir,
Pixim, JCC, Sony, Trans Pac, Tekno, Hikvision, CP Plus etc.). </p>
<p>The device
should be also able to connect IP ONVIF cameras and work as NVR as we switch to IP cameras continuously. </p>
<p>Also it should be possible to connect to multiple sites over IP
network with one user-friendly interface or application with password protection and various access levels (separate access rights to view recordings and change settings). It would be nice if it allows
for streaming individual cameras form our custom windows .NET app.
Also the device must be capable of deleting recordings older than X days and perform network time sync. </p>
<p>Usually there are max. 8 cameras on sites, on some others up to 16.</p>
<p>So far the <a href="http://www.dahuasecurity.com/products/hcvr82088216a-s3-2211.html" rel="nofollow">DAHUA S3 or NT</a> looks promising, but I have no hands on experience with it so far.</p>
|
DVR/NVR device to connect various analog cameras
|
<p>Find out what form factor the original PSU is, then buy a <strong>PSU Adapter Plate</strong> which will adapt whatever that form factor is to standard ATX. Then attach that plate to your new PSU, and then bolt the other form factor edge to the darker gray object (object [1] in your nomenclature). Should work, though you might have to get creative with fasteners (you might need flat head bolts).</p>
|
5658
|
2016-08-31T23:01:29.343
|
|power-supply|case|
|
<p>I had an old PC (the build was originally a Siemens Celsius 460 workstation) whose case I wanted to strip apart and supply with newer components. For most components (those with standardised sizes, i.e. hard drive, optical drive, mainboard) this was easy but I ran into an unexpected problem when wanting to install the new power supply unit.</p>
<p>The previously installed unit — an Astec AA21720 — was screwed into a metal in-between casing thing<sup>[1]</sup> and then onto the back of the case. The new unit — a Corsair VS350 — has its screwholes in different locations (what I presume is today’s standard locations). It’s not physically possible to fasten the new PSU with the screws and the in-between thing-a-ma-jig<sup>[1]</sup> provided and it’s not really possible to screw it in without it. But, the new PSU, while being wider than the old one (15 cm versus 12.5 cm) is still slimmer than the width of the case (approx. 18 cm). This leads me to believe that I haven’t lost yet. But let me show you some pictures first, so we know what we are talking about:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iERBq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iERBqm.jpg" alt="Image of the back side of Astec AA21720, the old PSU"></a><br>
The old PSU with the thing-a-ma-jig<sup>[1]</sup> to screw into the back of the chassis.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUgOd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUgOdm.jpg" alt="Image of the back side of Corsair VS350, the new PSU"></a><br>
The new PSU as is. But with the screw locations visible.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ojna.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ojnam.jpg" alt="Side-by-side view of both PSUs"></a><br>
And these are both to compare them with each other.</p>
<p>Are there any positioning-adapter thing-a-ma-jigsies<sup>[2]</sup> that I could buy and put between the new PSU and the back side of the case, so that all screws can fit into holes made for them? Sort of like the thing-a-ma-jig<sup>[1]</sup> the old PSU has, which basically allows to screw that one into chassis screw holes which are somewhere completely different. (If I could, I would buy the lowest-end cheap stuff because I don’t give a damn about most of the cool things that a case can do, so assume the bottom end of the price scale for standard PC cases.)</p>
<p>For convenience, I have labelled the two things I don’t know what to call by superscripted [1] and [2]. Superscripted [1] always refers to the metal thing seen in the first picture, distinguishable from the PSU by its darker shade of grey. Superscripted [2] refers to some similar thing I do not own yet.</p>
|
Remedies for new PSU not fitting into old case (but with extraneous space so it could be made fit)
|
<p>This one's pretty easy, really. Pick up the <strong><a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=1208066&gclid=Cj0KEQjwxqS-BRDRgPLp0q2t0IUBEiQAgfMXRBHZrcxW-3eJ_885GaDOGn_in7D1D_AH7IdUTC4zv5IaAjkB8P8HAQ&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C92051677562%2C&A=details&Q=" rel="nofollow">TP-Link HS100 Wi-Fi Smart Plug</a></strong>. It was the first device I found when I searched for "smart outlet."</p>
<ul>
<li>It is $25</li>
<li>It is bog standard 2.4ghz wifi</li>
<li>It turns stuff on and off</li>
<li>It is still made and supported by TP-Link, which is a large and well-known networking products manufacturer</li>
<li>It's easy to use - "<a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tplink.kasa_android" rel="nofollow">there's an app for that</a>" as it were. </li>
</ul>
|
5659
|
2016-09-01T05:45:19.763
|
|wireless|power-supply|automation|power-control|smart-device|
|
<p>I want to get power receptacles controlled via web and buttons. </p>
<p><strong>Specifications:</strong> </p>
<ul>
<li>I need an one-room system, wireless.</li>
<li>Electric power system here is bad for signal transferring. WiFi (Z Wave, ZigBee, etc), BlueTooth frequencies are fine. </li>
<li>Ok price, up to 25$ per receptacle (not including other parts).</li>
<li>Only on/off for controlling simple devices plugged in. Status isn't necessary.</li>
</ul>
<p>Also, please, don't propose inflexible closed undocumented and proprietary protocols' devices. Here's "and", not "or". For example, Z Wave is proprietary but seems ok. Open source solutions which are free but are a coder's scribbles with a long dead community aren't good for me. The receptaplaces controller functional should be expandable with sensors, actuators, etc.</p>
<p><strong>Difficulty level</strong>: mid-tier, I'm an IT guy, but not a hardware guy.
So, no circuits' designs from scratch, please, anything from the "arduino" level is ok. </p>
<p>Please, give me the recommendations with a rough pricing and links. </p>
|
Smart Home: controlled power receptacles
|
<p>I found the <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833168115" rel="nofollow">EnGenius ENS202 N300</a> on Newegg.</p>
<p>This is a brand of wireless equipment this is designed for outdoor use. It rated up to 158 degrees. It's also water resistant with an IP55 rating, meanint its resistant to dust and low pressure water from all angles. </p>
<p>If this model doesn't cut it for you, this company makes a wide range of outdoor rated networking tools. </p>
<p>Also, another note. That tin wall is going to radiate heat like an oven. I would consider mounting a wooden block between the wall and the AP to act as a heat sink, it will absorb the heat from the metal wall, and reduce the risk of hitting the 158 degree threshold. <em>edit</em> I mention this because my minds eye had the access point on the outside wall of the garage, odd assumption to make...</p>
|
5685
|
2016-09-06T20:10:13.960
|
|wifi|networking|access-point|
|
<p>I'm looking to extend wifi into a detached garage 200ft away from my house. The metal shed is not insulated or climate-controlled, and can get quite HOT during the Florida summers. </p>
<p>Can anyone recommend a specific Wireless AP capable of operating in these extreme temperatures? Should I look at specialized outdoor hardware, or buy the cheapest AP I can find, and plan on replacing it often?</p>
|
Best Wireless Access Point for HOT environment
|
<p>I ended up buying Core i7 3770</p>
<p>I think people should see this</p>
<p><a href="https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html" rel="nofollow">https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html</a></p>
<p>Basically I just check the benchmark number and see the price</p>
<pre><code>Intel Xeon E3-1290 V2 @ 3.70GHz 9,925 $885.00*
Intel Xeon E3-1280 V2 @ 3.60GHz 9,757 $644.99*
Intel Core i7-3770K @ 3.50GHz 9,560 $560.50
Intel Xeon E3-1270 V2 @ 3.50GHz 9,462 $421.00
Intel Core i7-3770 @ 3.40GHz 9,328 $335.55
Intel Xeon E3-1275 V2 @ 3.50GHz 9,320 $434.00
</code></pre>
<p>Based on that I think Intel Core i7-3770 @ 3.40GHz is the best choice.</p>
<p>Basically the top 6 core have the same socket type and almost the same benchmark result. However, Intel Core i7 3770 is simply cheaper. It's only $335. I actually got a used one for $200 from tokopedia.com</p>
<p>Xeon 1290 is simply too expensive and not available on tokopedia.com</p>
<p>I didn't mention budget range and I actually do expect to spend $1k. However, because i7 seems to have far cheaper cost benefit ratio I simply pick i7-3770.</p>
<p>However, Adam told Intel Xeon E3-1290 V2 but the price is too expensive</p>
|
5716
|
2016-09-12T06:32:07.407
|
|motherboard|
|
<p>I already have a good video card of GTX 1060. So I do not need a CPU with GPU on it. See: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_i7_microprocessors#Skylake_microarchitecture_.286th_generation.29" rel="nofollow">Skylake microarchitecture</a>. So skylake is not an option.</p>
<p>That being said, we do not have i9 right? i7 is like the best CPU there is.</p>
<p>ECS H61H2-M12 1.0
Enclosure Type: Desktop</p>
<p>The motherboard sucks I know. But well, what's the best CPU I can plug there. I can't easily upgrade my motherboard.</p>
<p>It's sucks because when I play overwatch I do not get 60 fps. Also the CPU is maxed out at 100%. I also do recording. This is my current CPU</p>
<p>3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i5-2320
32 kilobyte primary memory cache
256 kilobyte secondary memory cache
6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache
64-bit ready
Multi-core (4 total)
Not hyper-threaded </p>
<p>Some CPU comes with GPU already on the same slot. I have no idea what it is for given that I already have a good GPU on my main board. So if that extra GPU on CPU cost more money I would rather a GPU less CPU.</p>
<p>This is my belarc advisor result</p>
<pre><code>Operating System Windows 10 Professional (x64) Version 1511 (build 10586.545)
Install Language: English (United States)
System Locale: English (United States)
Installed: 8/7/2016 10:53:51 PM
Servicing Branch: Current Branch for Business (CBB)
Boot Mode: BIOS (Secure Boot not supported)
System Model ECS H61H2-M12 1.0
Enclosure Type: Desktop
Processor a 3.00 gigahertz Intel Core i5-2320
32 kilobyte primary memory cache
256 kilobyte secondary memory cache
6144 kilobyte tertiary memory cache
64-bit ready
Multi-core (4 total)
Not hyper-threaded
Main Circuit Board b Board: ECS H61H2-M12 1.0
Bus Clock: 400 megahertz
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 4.6.4 10/27/2011
Drives 1755.58 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
510.09 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space
Generic Flash Disk USB Device (8.05 GB) -- drive 3
ST1000DM003-9YN162 [Hard drive] (1000.20 GB) -- drive 0, s/n S1D0F680, rev CC4C, SMART Status: Healthy
ST3500312CS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, s/n 5VVAE8XQ, rev SC13, SMART Status: Healthy
TS256GSSD370 [Hard drive] (256.06 GB) -- drive 1, s/n B968689423, rev N1114B, SMART Status: Healthy
Memory Modules c,d 8170 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory
Slot 'A1_DIMM1' has 4096 MB
Slot 'A1_DIMM3' has 4096 MB
Local Drive Volumes
c: (NTFS on drive 1) * 255.27 GB 32.86 GB free BitLocker†
d: (NTFS on drive 0) 105 MB 31 MB free
e: (NTFS on drive 2) 500.11 GB 382.16 GB free BitLocker†
f: (NTFS on drive 0) 209 MB 136 MB free
g: (NTFS on drive 0) 265.19 GB 64.00 GB free BitLocker†
h: (NTFS on drive 0) 734.70 GB 30.90 GB free BitLocker†
* Operating System is installed on c:
† Encrypted volume.
Network Drives None detected
</code></pre>
<p>I also want high performance per price ratio.</p>
|
Good CPU to replace my i5 CPU
|
<p>You need the i3-5005U. Its graphics power is the main reason. If/when you are consuming GPU-accelerated web content or converting videos, the extra GPU horsepower will make all the difference and is worth the extra cost alone. Additionally, the i3 has a little extra cache, which might come in especially handy for virtualization.</p>
|
5721
|
2016-09-12T19:09:22.633
|
|laptop|processor|
|
<p>I'm helping to buy a computer for a person whose main computer's use will restrain to web browsing, checking e-mail, office tasks but who may occasionally run Windows in a VM or perform some video conversion.</p>
<p>Among the offers I found two similar ones: </p>
<ul>
<li>Acer V3-372 with Pentium 4405 and a LED IPS matrix, extra USB-C and USB 3.0 port</li>
<li>Acer V3-371 with i3-5005U and a LED matrix</li>
</ul>
<p>The latter of them is 8.2% more expensive than the former, i.e. 150 PLN.
Is the i3 processor worth the extra money in these case? </p>
<p>There's a benchmark showing that Pentium 4405 is 14% faster than i3 (CPU-wise), but benchmarks are benchmarks: <a href="http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Pentium-4405U-vs-Intel-Core-i3-5005U/m54474vsm24957" rel="nofollow">http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Pentium-4405U-vs-Intel-Core-i3-5005U/m54474vsm24957</a></p>
<p>The notebook will run Linux, probably Cinnamon or KDE as its desktop environment.</p>
|
Intel Pentium P4405 vs Intel Core i3-5005U
|
<p>That's a tall order for a CPU from 2011. The Supermicro Motherboard MBD-C7Q67-O looks like it should fit the bill, however. The only caveat is the front USB 3.0 headers (I took it as "you would like to have" rather than "required"), but those can be easily added with an add on card.</p>
<p>The full specifications can be found <a href="http://bit.ly/2dr0Pjx" rel="nofollow">here</a>. As for the price, <a href="http://bit.ly/2dr0Pjx" rel="nofollow">Newegg</a> and <a href="https://goo.gl/9kVMR9" rel="nofollow">Amazon</a> both have it for more the $200, while you can get it for under $50 used/refurbished on <a href="http://ebay.to/2e6drf1" rel="nofollow">eBay</a></p>
|
5731
|
2016-09-14T05:01:32.900
|
|motherboard|compatibility|
|
<p>I can not seem to find a motherboard that is compatible with all my parts without going over $80. Here are my <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/list/4pPL9W" rel="nofollow">parts</a>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Intel Core i5-2310 2.9GHz Quad-Core Processor</li>
<li>Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory</li>
<li>Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive</li>
<li>Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive</li>
<li>EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB Superclocked Video Card</li>
</ul>
<p>I need a motherboard that supports the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>At least two sata 6/gbs connectors</li>
<li>Support for ddr3 memory </li>
<li>Socket 1155</li>
<li>usb 3.0 front headers would also be preferred.</li>
<li>Micro ATX Form Factor</li>
</ul>
<p>If you know a motherboard that would work for me any help would be greatly appreciated. </p>
|
need compatible motherboard
|
<p>There are USB 3 Type A male to USB Type C female adapters which allows me to plug in my flash disk at the same time. </p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01ABTHI7C" rel="nofollow">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABTHI7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00</a></p>
<p>In retrospect maybe I should have gotten a usb c male to usb type a female adapter and just use one of my existing flash drives instead of buying a type c flash disk.</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00ZVRHV2C" rel="nofollow">https://www.amazon.com/USB-Adapter-Converter-Connector-STANDARD/dp/B00ZVRHV2C</a></p>
|
5753
|
2016-09-16T04:31:46.407
|
|usb|
|
<p>So I bought a Samsung Galaxy Tab Pro S which has a single usb type c port. I also bought a <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01BSJVY7Y" rel="nofollow">usb c hub</a> so I could connect it to an external monitor via hdmi. I also wanted to be able to boot into linux via flash drive, so I bought a <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01AZC3NWY" rel="nofollow">usb c flash drive</a>. </p>
<p>Then when I got everything I realized I couldn't plugin the flash drive and the hub at the same time. The hub appeared to have a usb type c port, but this port appears to only allow me to provide input power and even if it did work as a port I still would need two usb type c ports one for the flash drive and one for power. </p>
<p>I figured I just needed to buy a different usb hub with usb type c ports instead of type a ports... but I can't seem to find a usb type c hub that additional type c ports! They all appear to have female type A ports some with a power pass through and some without but none of them seem to have additional type c ports.</p>
<p>Is there a type C hub that will connect to the Tab Pro S, and will allow me to connect both the external monitor via HDMI and the flash drive at the same time?</p>
|
USB Type C hub / port replicator
|
<p>Alternatively, you could have the <a href="http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-u2212h/pd" rel="nofollow"><strong>Dell UltraSharp U2212HM 21.5"</strong></a> monitor. Very similar to your current monitor, but in 21.5" size.</p>
<ul>
<li>21.5"</li>
<li>1920x1080 Full HD</li>
<li>4 USB ports</li>
<li>HDMI</li>
<li>Available, like most/all Dell monitors, in Europe</li>
<li>I'm finding prices between 135€ and 160€; prices will vary depending on which retailer you pick.</li>
</ul>
<p>As you've probably already worked out, Dell are one of the best for monitors. This is a pretty solid bet - I've not used one myself, but I know a couple of people who use either this monitor or a close relative and have been very satisfied with it.</p>
|
5761
|
2016-09-16T19:02:41.713
|
|usb|monitors|hdmi|
|
<p>I'm searching for a new monitor, I currently own (for more or less 1 years) a <a href="http://www1.euro.dell.com/content/products/productdetails.aspx/dell-u2414h?c=uk&l=en&s=dhs&cs=ukdhs1" rel="nofollow">Dell UltraSharp 24"</a> (U2414H) which is a very good monitor but I feel uncomfortable with it (24 inches is too big for me and due to the conception of the screen it appear also too close from me) and would like to switch with a 22" monitor.</p>
<p><strong>Requirement :</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>~22 inches</li>
<li>Full HD resolution (1920x1080)</li>
<li>HDMI and at least 3 USB port (audio I/O is a plus)</li>
<li>Available in Europe</li>
<li>< 250€</li>
</ul>
<p>Main usage of the monitor is for multimedia and programming, nothing fancy, I don't need internal speakers. I would like something like <a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/VX229H/" rel="nofollow">ASUS VX229H</a> but it don't have any USB ports neither audio I/O.</p>
|
Monitor for multimedia (22")
|
<p>Probably not, external graphic cards do not run via anything lower than USB 3.0. In addition that USB port has to be a thunderbolt port in order for an exteranl GPU to be supproted through it. This is simply because an older USB port doesn't have enough bandwidth to support the communication between a GPU and your PC, and also because it doesn't connect to the appropriate port on the motherboard. Thunderbolt ports however are based on PCI-E technology which is the same, as the one used by desktop graphics cards to communicate with the computer. Hence, if your laptop supports thunderbolt you would be able to purchase an external GPU chassis (like the one offered by RazerBlade), as well as a GPU that would convert PCI-E to thinderbolt, and plug into the proper port on your laptop. We would have to know the exact model number of your laptop to tell if it is equipped by a thunderbolt port.</p>
|
5769
|
2016-09-17T13:49:10.500
|
|graphics-cards|performance|rendering|
|
<p>After I invested on a laptop to start graphic designing I ended up finding out that AMD wasn't good for it and that my computer's power isn't enough(AMD doesn't support openGL render and I have just an i5 processor in my computer).<br>
So I was wondering if it was possible to install an external GPU on my pc. I am just a simple end use with not so much knowledge on hardware, and I was wondering if external nvidia graphic cards are available that would run via USB ports in my PC(windows 7).<br>
If not, what would be a work around for me that would provide me a similar performance of an nvidia graphic card and would support high and fast rendering(for 3D graphics,{specifically I'm using blender- cycles})?<br>
(I'm using a dell inspiron laptop.)</p>
|
external graphic card for pc(windows)
|
<p>You actually have an dedicated graphic card as well as an integrated. You have an AMD A series processor which has an iGPU, you should definitely chech if your cards arde compatible and if they support CrossFireX in order to get the most out of your system. As far as your RAM is ckncerned, yes you should definitely upgrade your memory to at least 8GB since you have a 64-bit processor in order for your pc to handle multitasking smoother... Your dedicated graphics card is pretty outdated as well, in fact i think your integrated may offer better oerformance (I haven't done any reserach on that it's just a feeling, you should check out if that's the case though, and if you can't run them in CrossFire, at least make sure you are using whichever one is better). </p>
|
5771
|
2016-09-17T13:57:29.957
|
|graphics-cards|memory|
|
<p>as the title says. I just want to ask if I have a dedicated or integrated graphics card and what is the difference? And also, what are your suggestions on:</p>
<p>Should I upgrade my RAM? or Should I upgrade my graphics card? Thank you!</p>
<pre><code>Operating System: Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit (6.3, Build 9600) (9600.winblue_ltsb.150715-0840)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: System manufacturer
System Model: System Product Name
BIOS: BIOS Date: 01/21/15 14:14:16 Ver: 07.02
Processor: AMD A8-6600K APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics (4 CPUs), ~3.9GHz
Memory: 4096MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 3016MB RAM
Page File: 1392MB used, 4695MB available
Windows Dir: C:\Windows
DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
DxDiag Version: 6.03.9600.17415 64bit Unicode
Card name: AMD Radeon HD 8570D
Manufacturer: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.
Chip type: AMD Radeon HD 8570D (0x990E)
DAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)
Device Type: Full Device
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_990E&SUBSYS_85261043&REV_00
Display Memory: 2294 MB
Dedicated Memory: 1014 MB
Shared Memory: 1280 MB
Current Mode: 1024 x 768 (32 bit) (60Hz)
Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
Monitor Model: L1553S
Monitor Id: GSM3BB0
Native Mode: 1024 x 768(p) (60.004Hz)
Output Type: HD15
</code></pre>
|
Question if I have a dedicated or integrated graphics card and what is the difference?
|
<blockquote>
<p>I just want to know if the XPS 15 9550 Touch is a good laptop, given my requirements, and if not, which one would be a valid alternative. </p>
</blockquote>
<p>This should be able to handle most things. The CPU is new enough to not be a bottleneck while compiling code, while the GPU is solid enough to push AAA titles to max/ultra settings in 1080p (some games might have to throttle to 30fps). Here is a point by point break down. </p>
<ul>
<li>This model comes in 15.6 and 17.3 inch models. </li>
<li>This is name brand laptop, using a brand new CPU and GPU, it will last as long as it meets your needs. If upgrading is a concern, consider a desktop. </li>
<li>The 15.6 inch model is 4.85 lbs. </li>
<li>This laptop has a 6th Generation Intel® Core™ i7 processor, its one of the most powerful consumer grade CPU on the market today. </li>
<li>The GPU will be able to play most games on Max/Ultra settings on 1080p. If there are any specific games you would like to know about google "NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 965M" and the game you're interested in. </li>
</ul>
<p>Oh and by the way, the HDD to SSD jump is amazing. I went from an old 5400rpm boot drive to a m.2 ssd drive and it is like night and day. </p>
|
5781
|
2016-09-18T12:08:17.493
|
|laptop|
|
<p>It's been 8 years since I last bought a laptop, so I'm very rusty. I would like a laptop which has:</p>
<ol>
<li>a 15'' monitor</li>
<li>it's <strong>reliable</strong> (don't want to buy another one anytime soon!)</li>
<li>it's lightweight</li>
<li>it's a powerful computing enviroment: I like dabbling with machine learning and statistics (I use the open source language R). I have a powerful workstation at work, thus I don't <strong>have</strong> to do computationally intensive stuff at home too, but I sure would like to try it out now and then. </li>
<li>I haven't been playing for at least 10 years, but recently I've taken a liking to playing games on my smartphone (Samsung S6), so I was curious to come back to the gaming world and see how it is now.</li>
</ol>
<p>I've been offered a Dell XPS 15 9550 laptop with <a href="http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-15-9550-laptop/pd?oc=dncwx1634h&model_id=xps-15-9550-laptop#overrides=dncwx1634h:8~512G" rel="nofollow">high-end configuration</a>: basically it's the 15'' Touch screen model (a touch screen on a laptop? sounds weird to me) with the 512 SSD hard disk (curious to see what difference this kind of HD makes with respect to the SATA I knew). It's nearly new (1 month), and I would pay it 1300 € (I live in a European country). Full warranty, etc. Since Dell site prices it at 2050$, it sounded like a good deal and I got a verbal agreement, but...an acquaintance told me that the graphics card is "crap" (his words) and that there are better options at the same price. He pointed me to <a href="http://store.hp.com/ItalyStore/Merch/Product.aspx?id=E7E59EA&opt=ABZ&sel=NTB" rel="nofollow">this laptop</a>. I apologize for the non-English link, but I couldn't find exactly the same laptop on the English HP site. <a href="http://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/Laptops/omen-laptop---15t-gaming-uhd-w2n30ua-aba" rel="nofollow">This one</a> seems the closest one, but note that it has an HD twice as big (!). Anyway, it's not necessary to focus on these two. I just want to know if the XPS 15 9550 Touch is a good laptop, given my requirements, and if not, which one would be a valid alternative. </p>
|
XPS 15 9550 top configuration, is it a good choice according to my requirements?
|
<p>This one looks like it meets your requirements in terms of size and dialog volume: <a href="https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/speakers/home_theater/bose-solo-5-tv-sound-system.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/speakers/home_theater/bose-solo-5-tv-sound-system.html</a></p>
<ul>
<li>Has mounting brackets</li>
<li>Has "Dialogue mode to hear each word and detail clearly"</li>
<li>Has Optical audio input (digital)</li>
<li>Is < 30" (21.6")</li>
</ul>
|
5799
|
2016-09-20T01:45:59.640
|
|audio|sound-system|
|
<p>I need a soundbar 30" or under that doesn't have low volume dialog problems <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv&oq=dialog%20too%20quiet%20tv" rel="nofollow noreferrer">often seen in low end 2 channel systems & TV's</a>.</p>
<p>The smallest 3 Channel system I could find is the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00Z2XXEKI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Vizio 3.0-Channel Soundbar with Bluetooth and Deep Bass Technology - Black SB3830-C6M</a> which shouldn't have the problem but it's 38".</p>
<p>At minimum it just needs to have Digital SPDIF Input for I/O.</p>
<p>No additional external system components (sub-woofer, satellite speakers, etc).</p>
<p>The soundbar will be mounted right below the TV using a TV soundbar mounting bracket. The TV is on a wall mount.</p>
|
Soundbar 30" or under that doesn't have low volume dialog problems
|
<p>I recommend the <strong><a href="http://www.outletpc.com/vb9429-asus-geforce-turbo-gtx1070-8gb.html?utm_source=vb9429-asus-geforce-turbo-gtx1070-8gb&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&utm_content=Asus%2B-%2BVideo%20Cards" rel="nofollow">Asus Turbo GTX-1070 8gb</a></strong>. It's the cheapest Asus/MSI 1070 out there, and its blower cooling might actually be of some benefit to you unless you have more fans in your case than the default number it came with.</p>
<p>It is a very long card, but it will fit in your case and one of the two 6/8 PSU cables you have will power it. Furthermore, while it will "cover" 2 of your SATA ports, 4 will be wide open, which is the requirement. I put scare quotes around "cover" because in my experience those ports are still definitely usable, you just have to put the cables in before the card. <em>Sometimes</em> you might need to use right-angle SATA cables, but those aren't hard to come by; at least one probably shipped with your motherboard.</p>
<p>TL;DR this WILL work with your current PC setup.</p>
|
5810
|
2016-09-21T17:40:14.717
|
|graphics-cards|motherboard|
|
<p>First question for me on this site, lets see how it goes.
So i have this motherboard.
<a href="http://www.asus.com/UK/Motherboards/B150M-A/" rel="nofollow">http://www.asus.com/UK/Motherboards/B150M-A/</a>
Could someone recommend me a powerful graphics card, GTX1070 or something similar that would fit due to the fact my board is mini atx with 4 sata ports in use. What ones are there that will fit?
If someone could find a powerful single case slot g card. Preferably Nvidia based Asus or MSI that would be great.</p>
|
Recommend me a powerful graphics card that will work with my motherboard
|
<p>I do not know everything there is to know about video signals, but given that your TV probably only takes analog inputs, I'm going to suggest the <strong><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UB3X34235" rel="nofollow noreferrer">White PC VGA to AV TV RCA S-Video Converter Switch Box Adapter</a></strong> here. Not only is this cheaper than HDMI alternatives, it has a better chance (in my imperfect opinion) of having less latency, because converting VGA to RCA signal is a totally analog process and so (I'm guessing) much simpler to do. I also like that you can power it from a USB port; a nice bonus feature that makes the whole setup a little less byzantine.</p>
<p>There are HDMI to VGA/3.5mm converter boxes out there, but the ones I could find mentioned ~1s latency, which I would find unacceptable for gaming.</p>
|
5811
|
2016-09-21T18:08:45.467
|
|hdmi|television|
|
<p><strong>Request:</strong> I want a box which converts from HDMI or VGA to Component 480p without introducing noticeable lag.</p>
<p><em>Additional information which describes my situation:</em></p>
<p>I have a decent "Flat Glass" CRT SD TV which I believe supports 480p Component Input. I recall playing SOCOM II on PS2 with component cables and enabling that mode. Anyway, I have some older computers and laptops, and looking to use this old TV as a monitor for emulation.</p>
<p>I'm looking for a device or solution which would add minimal lag since I'm planning to do some GBA/SNES Emulation. I'm open to outputting VGA from my laptop and converting that instead. Sound isn't an issue, as I can just use the mini-jack for that. Also, if important, I'm planning to use a Debian Linux based system, probably a version of Ubuntu.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance for any hardware ideas or solutions.</p>
|
Looking for an adapter to go from HDMI to RCA Component 480p
|
<p>There is the x86 <a href="https://www.hardkernel.com/shop/odroid-h2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ODROID-H2</a> SBC which comes with 2 x 1 GBit ethernet, 2 x SATA, 2 x USB 3.0 (4 USB ports in total), 1 x M.2 NVMe and more.</p>
<p>As of 2018-12, it's sold for $ 111.</p>
<p>It's based on the Intel Celeron J4105 platform (CPU is soldered) and has 2 empty DDR4 SO-DIMM slots.</p>
<p>When using the SATA ports you need special SATA power cables.</p>
|
5819
|
2016-09-22T18:38:24.450
|
|motherboard|linux|ethernet|
|
<p>I am looking for a single board computer with 2x1 GBit ethernet ports, on board.</p>
<p>Should come with SATA and/or USB 3.</p>
<p>Either x86 or ARM is ok, as long as it runs Linux.</p>
|
Single board computer with 2 GBit ethernet ports
|
<p>Samsung Portable SSD T5 might be a good choice too, if you can find an offer that fits your budget: <a href="https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/product/portable/t5/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/product/portable/t5/</a></p>
|
5820
|
2016-09-22T19:23:33.587
|
|usb|ssd|hard-disk|
|
<p>I boot operating systems like Windows 10, Xubuntu and Remix OS from USB storage.</p>
<p>I bought myself a <a href="http://www.amazon.in/dp/B00DQG9OZ2/ref=twister_B00O24PBR2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB 3 flash drive</a> and thought "Hey, this can do 100 MB/s, it must be awesome for booting an OS from." (I do have a USB 3 port on my computer.) Well, it did perform that way in tests, but booting operating systems from it was an absolutely terrible experience. Xubuntu/Remix OS worked (though were slow and crashed frequently.) Windows crashed before it had even booted properly.</p>
<p>"Why is this?" I thought to myself.</p>
<p>Someone who apparently knows what they are talking about, <a href="http://www.easyuefi.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=261&pid=1401#pid1401" rel="nofollow noreferrer">told me</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>For an Windows operating system boot drive, 4K random read speeds are the most important, followed by 4K random write speed, this is because there are a large number of small files in the Windows system. The 4K read/write speeds of the common flash drives are always slow, so these drives are not suitable for creating W2G drive.
And the read/write speeds you said is sequential write read/write speed, not 4K random read/write speed, so it can't run Windows smoothly.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I also tried with an <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20120325175727/https://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=hddWDpp_ess_160_blue" rel="nofollow noreferrer">old mechanical drive</a> I had lying around. It has only a fraction of the sequential read/write speed of the flash drive, but still, it works alright. Not as good as the internal HDD of my laptop, but still OK.</p>
<p>But, what I don't understand is: The advice I quoted above indicates that "4K random read/write speeds" are the key to performance. However, <a href="http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/1002256" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I tested both the flash drive and the old mechanical drive</a>, and the flash drive seems to score better, even in this regard. (The relevant entries are "SanDisk" and "WD".)</p>
<p>Alright, so that was a lot of background information. I'm trying to let you in on what research I have done before posting the question. Now on to the question:</p>
<p>What is a good external (USB) HDD or SSD that will give optimal performance when booting operating systems off it?</p>
<p>Criteria:</p>
<ul>
<li>Capacity should be 150 GB or more.</li>
<li>The price should be 200 USD or less (13.400 INR).</li>
<li>USB 3</li>
<li>Fast boot-time is a high priority.</li>
<li>System performance is a very, very high priority.</li>
<li>I live in India, so products available on <a href="http://www.amazon.in/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Indian Amazon</a> or <a href="http://ebay.in" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Indian eBay</a> are a huge plus.</li>
</ul>
<p>It would be good if answers explained <em>why</em> the suggested product is a good choice.</p>
|
External HDD or SSD for booting operating system from
|
<p>Any Nvidia, Intel (CPU+motherboard), or AMD GPU with a displayport technology level above 1.2 ought to work, at least with the proprietary drivers. The problem is making sure that you have the right cable connections - in some cases, active adapters and/or MST hubs may be needed to make all 4+ monitors work reliably. </p>
<p>If I had to recommend a GPU for you, I'd tell you to look at the <strong><a href="http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=AT-R250ETY&c=CJ" rel="nofollow">Sapphire R7 250 Eyefinity Edition</a></strong>. You can connect two monitors to the DVI and HDMI ports, then add two or more displays using a splitter cable off the Display Port. Note that Sapphire claims it supports 3 displays in the tech specs, but the Eyefinity spec from AMD claims any GPU with that moniker supports 6. I believe this disparity is due to the fact Sapphire isn't including a DP splitter cable; such cards <em>do</em> work with up to six displays, as long as those displays don't exceed the total number of pixels each output is capable of pushing. </p>
<p>Alternatives on the Nvidia side are similar, if somewhat more expensive on average. The company really tries to push its Quadro NVS cards if you look at their official documentation, but at least in Windows I have experience using GTX cards with DP outputs to connect up to eight monitors successfully. I don't recommend that setup only because getting those cards to work in Windows was never as successful as with the AMD cards, and the many weird issues I encountered make me hesitate to recommend it for Linux, where support tends to be even more wonky.</p>
<p>The last thing I would like to mention is that unless space/energy is at a premium, it almost never makes sense to go with the NVS/Firepro solutions both companies offer up. These cards are expensive, inadequately cooled, and unecessary, because in reality you can just keep adding GPUs to computers and running additional displays off them without issues, so long as you have the bus connections (PCI-E normally, in this day and age). Thus in a computer with an Intel HD 4000 GPU on the CPU die connected to a DVI, HDMI, and DP out, adding two of the R7 250 Eyefinity edition GPUs above would allow that computer to push <em>at least</em> 3 displays on the Intel chip + 6 more on each GPU, for a total of 15 1080p displays. Any limits on that number discovered are more likely to be the fault of the OS than anything else, AFAIK.</p>
|
5826
|
2016-09-23T14:38:35.700
|
|graphics-cards|linux|
|
<p>I am trying to find what video cards support a quad monitor extended desktop in Xubuntu. I've been searching forums and help pages and can not find a definitive option for a video card in Xfce that works on 4,5 or 6 monitors. At a minimum I want to run 4 monitors. </p>
<p>Any recommendations on a card that works in this environment?</p>
|
Video Card for Xubuntu
|
<p>Yes, I was looking for the same requirement last month, I found e-con Systems who make cameras for NVIDIA Jetson TX1. They have a 360degree solution for TX1. I can see that they run 6 MIPI CSI-2 Cameras simultaneously. Please refer : <a href="https://www.e-consystems.com/blog/camera/?p=1709" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.e-consystems.com/blog/camera/?p=1709</a></p>
|
5841
|
2016-09-26T10:35:04.843
|
|video-camera|embedded-systems|microcontroller|
|
<p>I'm looking for "NVIDIA Jetson TX1" module alternatives for 360 video capturing</p>
<p>main requirements - 3 or more 4 line mipi-csi with ability to transfer 4k from each camera and sata or 10g ethernet phy to transfer video to storage.
Also size, weight and price should be minimal.</p>
<p>any suggestions?</p>
|
dev board with 3 or more mipi-csi
|
<p>So, what you are going to want is an internal adapter. You have to be careful when doing this because poorly made ones can fry a motherboard really quick. I've seen cheap ebay adapters take other components hostage as well. </p>
<p>I did find the <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232004&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleKWLess&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleKWLess-_-DSA-_-CategoryPages-_-NA&gclid=CPrItoS9t88CFQ9EfgodI-AAow&gclsrc=aw.ds" rel="nofollow">Vantec IDE to SATA converter</a> on new egg. It has a 4 out of 5 star rating across 270 reviews. If this exact model doesn't fit with your current motherboard, because of tray restrictions or space issues you can also buy the adapters that are just the wires, without the plug interface the model above uses. </p>
<p>The most important thing is to find a product that has a lot of positive reviews. Like I've said, I've seen some of those power adapters kill a system. So do your homework and look at the reviews. Also with these old IDE drives, remember to have the pinout set to master. </p>
|
5868
|
2016-09-30T08:34:38.557
|
|hard-disk|
|
<p>I have a pretty old HDD with IDE cables, and a relatively new motherboard (ASRock 970 extreme4) with only SATA inputs. Is there an adapter or device that will allow me to connect the old IDE HDD directly to the new SATA motherboard?</p>
|
How to connect IDE HDD to motherboard with only SATA?
|
<p>What about a GTX <strong>1070</strong> laptop?</p>
<h1><strong><a href="https://www.sagernotebook.com/Notebook-NP8153.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sager NP8153</a></strong>:</h1>
<h2><strong>Specs:</strong></h2>
<ul>
<li>CPU: i7-6700HQ (much more powerful than Alienware)</li>
<li>RAM: 8GB DDR4 (same as Alienware)</li>
<li>Disk: 1TB (same as Alienware)</li>
<li>Wireless: 802.11ac WiFi and Bluetooth (same as Alienware)</li>
<li>GPU: GTX 1070 (much, much more powerful than Alienware)</li>
<li>Backlit keyboard (Alienware has none)</li>
<li>Gears of War 4 - free! (Alienware has none)</li>
<li>Monitor: 15.6" 1920x1080p IPS G-Sync (Alienware doesn't have G-Sync)</li>
</ul>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>Never used a Sager laptop before, not associated with them, but looked up a couple of random yet reputable brands to come across this. It's better than Alienware, so buy it instead?</p>
|
5889
|
2016-10-03T08:11:53.827
|
|laptop|graphics-cards|gaming|
|
<p>I have been looking to buy a gaming laptop from the past two months. I only found out now that nVidia GTX 1000 series laptops are much better than 900 series ones. I am new to gaming and want to buy my first ever gaming laptop. I need a laptop for sure, not a desktop for portability reasons. However for the most part I will use it in plugged mode, so battery life isn't a huge issue. </p>
<p>Coming to the main point, my budget is around $1500 and I want a 15-15.6 inch screen laptop only. And also the laptop that I will be taking will have a resolution not greater than FHD, so considering that, I think going with a GTX 1060 card is a better option as GTX 1070 or 1080 are only better than 1060 if I plan to play games at a higher resolution. So for FHD, GTX 1060 is more than enough(correct me if I am wrong, I am basing my priority over a 1060 laptop based on this fact/opinion). I'll also look favourably on any laptops that are likely to have deals available (considering the upcoming Black Friday). So which laptops do you suggest?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
|
Which GTX 1060 gaming laptop should I buy?
|
<p>So I won't be able to answer your questions completely, but it looks like the requested features you're looking for has been done in the past. Here is what someone else has been able to do. </p>
<blockquote>
<ol>
<li>Vending Pi Board
A) Gather data from DEX Input / Output Port (Vending Machine Side).
B) Collect data from Humidity & Temperature Sensors inside Vending machine.</li>
<li>Stock Data (Total Sold, Product Price, Product Total Price).</li>
<li>Android Phone / Tablet used to download data from Raspberry Pi system via Bluetooth.</li>
<li>Stores data locally ready to upload to server or to upload to PC then to server (Web Interface)</li>
<li>Provides GPS location input for Vending Machine.</li>
<li>Check Vending machine location through GPS (Through Android Smart phone/Tablet)</li>
<li>On board Temperature sensor can control mini cooler fan for Vending Board system.</li>
<li>Status LED’s for error checking / troubleshooting.</li>
<li>2 micro switch to provide basic control ( shutdown, reboot)</li>
</ol>
</blockquote>
<p>It looks like they have a project page that outlines the entire process, and how it can be done again. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=89299" rel="nofollow">Here is the main URL</a><br>
<a href="http://www.pridopia.co.uk/pi-vending.html" rel="nofollow">Here is their project page, it looks like they sell the Raspberry pi already pre-configured</a></p>
<p>If this isn't an acceptable answer, I can continue dredging google to find what else you might need. </p>
|
5910
|
2016-10-05T16:35:46.937
|
|raspberry-pi|
|
<p>I am a softie, with little understanding of hardware.</p>
<p>I want to develop a vending machine controller, as cheaply as possible, while still being functional. I don’t expect heavy CPU or RAM usage.</p>
<p>To be compatible with standard peripherals, such as coin & note changers, it must have a URT. I guess that I just use a USB to UATR converter? Is that best/cheapest/are there any alternatives?</p>
<p>It will also need to drive some motors to expel the vended goods, and will have a keypad for ordering and a display (which display probably depends on price), and possibly a sensor to determine that items actually drop. Does this mean GPIO pins?</p>
<p>I would like to add wifi, for diagnostics, retrieval of sales data, upload of new firmware to the machine, and, in future, I might like to add RJ45.</p>
<p>Can anyone advise me what is the best way to go? Do I just take a Pi Zero and start adding shields, or is there a better suited model/peripheral combination? Sorry to be so dense.</p>
<hr />
<p>[Update] a mere five years later, all that you have to do is DuckDuckGo for <a href="https://duckduckgo.com/?q=raspberry+pi+mdb" rel="nofollow noreferrer">raspberry pi mdb</a>.</p>
|
Raspberry PI for vending machine controller
|
<p>I would get the 510s. You can easily upgrade the SSD when you are ready, but for 10% more you not only get twice the memory but its DDR4 versus DDR3.</p>
|
5925
|
2016-10-08T09:19:44.423
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I am wondering which Ultrabook should I choose.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Lenovo Ideapad 500s-13 i5-6200U/8GB/240SSD GF920M - Ram DDR3</p></li>
<li><p>Lenovo 510S i5-6200U 16GB 120SSD R5M430 - Ram DDR4</p></li>
</ol>
<p>I would have to pay 10% more for the second one. I will be using it mostly for work, studying. For example photoshop, Android Studio, maybe some lite 3D work.</p>
<p>What do you think? :)</p>
|
Lenovo 500s (8GB) vs Lenovo 510s(16GB)
|
<p>I have a preference for Synology. Based on the D-Link specs you provided, either the "J Series" or the "Value Series" would be a good match. Take a look at the <a href="https://www.synology.com/en-us/products?bays=bays_2" rel="nofollow">Synology site</a> for more details</p>
<p>Pretty much the features/specs are the same - especially when it comes to the software and firmware. The only notable differences would be in the hardware specs.</p>
<p>I have an older model 212j that works flawlessly. I have upgraded it to new versions of the OS with zero issues and is fully compatible with my setup. I hang 3 USB drives off of it for backup and a USB flash disk for storage of my music.</p>
<p>What's nice here too is that you can get it "<a href="https://goo.gl/pR0YDR" rel="nofollow">diskless</a>" meaning the bays are empty. This is how I bought mine (for under $200) at the time and put in two <a href="https://goo.gl/4nk1Ry" rel="nofollow">WD Red 3TB NAS</a> drives cheaper than I could have bought it pre-populated.</p>
|
5930
|
2016-10-08T15:44:48.310
|
|wifi|hard-disk|
|
<ul>
<li>The D-Link product is no longer manufactured.</li>
<li>I'm aware of software products such as <a href="http://www.nas4free.org/" rel="nofollow">NAS4Free</a>; I'd rather have a complete solution that doesn't involve acquiring more than one product.</li>
<li>Raid 1; ability to work with Boxee Box; 2, preferably 3 TBytes per spindle.</li>
<li>You'd be right if you've guessed that I pinch pennies.</li>
<li>I've tried searching using terms including <strong>sharecenter comparison</strong> and <strong>sharecenter alternative</strong>.</li>
</ul>
<p>Even if you can help me by suggesting other search terms I'd appreciate that.</p>
|
What's a good replacement for a D-Link DNS-320 ShareCenter?
|
<p>Both of them look ok to me (the ones from Amazon and Crucial). Everything seems to match up: Form Factor (sodimm), Speed 1600Mhz, Model No. </p>
<p>In conclusion, it looks to me like the RAM you looked at and the RAM that Esbjorn suggested <strong><em>are compatible</em></strong>.</p>
|
5940
|
2016-10-09T11:34:51.527
|
|laptop|memory|
|
<p>A few years ago I bought a hp ProBook 6470b. It had decent specs, and looked pretty cool. I've been running Linux on the machine for quite a while now, and have started to notice some slowdowns. The laptop came with 4Gb which I think needs an upgrade. I found one ram stick (4Gb) online, <a href="http://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/probook-6470b/CT3506032" rel="nofollow noreferrer">from Crucial</a>, and wonder if they will go along together, and if i need to consider anything else before buying.</p>
<p>Picture of the memory inside the computer.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLGwH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLGwH.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
Memory compatibility
|
<p>I strongly recommend against cheap PSU units or actually purchasing without researching a bit first.<br>
A lot of the units on the market have really bad voltage regulation, especially on the 3.3V and 12V rails along with bad ripple. Furthermore, a cheaper PSU is more likely to trip on an input load that supposedly matches the output (for example 600W wall draw instead of 600W delivered on the rails). </p>
<p>While it's generally true that with mild overclocking it will do 'fine', after all, the power supply must supply the motherboard, GPU and peripheral devices with clean power. I would not trust any components whose power load may spike on a cheap supply. </p>
<p>From the recommendations above I support the EVGA and RoseWill supplies, and I'd also add most SuperFlower and SeaSonic supplies you can get your hands on. FSP (previously known as Fortron) also have very decent units that do not come off as expensive. </p>
<hr>
<p>Regarding power draw, @Brett Bergan's suggestion for 160W for the RAM is outlandish. DDR4 RAM (without a ridiculous overvolt) will rarely consume over 3-4W per module. </p>
<p>As for power supply, I would actually recommend a <strong><a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/product/TgW9TW/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii520bronze" rel="nofollow">SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze</a></strong> which is surprisingly cheap while still retaining full modularity and providing clean output. </p>
<p>520W will be more than enough for your system until you decide to push things to the limits, and those PSUs can be trusted.<br>
I've pulled over 1100W from the wall on my 850W unit (SS-850AM, Bronze efficiency) which is a bit over it's rated output and still didn't even trigger it's OCP.</p>
|
5947
|
2016-10-10T17:57:31.893
|
|pc|power-supply|power|
|
<p>I am willing to build my very first computer.</p>
<p>This is the <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/list/wdkDwV">build</a> I was thinking about:</p>
<ul>
<li>Intel Core i7 6700K</li>
<li>Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5-EU</li>
<li>Corsair Hydro H60 CW-9060007-WW</li>
<li>EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB SC GAMING 1835MHz Boost Clock</li>
<li>Crucial CT2K8G4DFD8213 Memoria RAM da 16 GB, DDR4</li>
<li>NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340W-W1</li>
<li>Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB, 1TB WD HDD</li>
<li>Windows 10, maybe Linux</li>
</ul>
<p>I am looking for a power supply that will work with this build. I am thinking of the <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139059">Corsair CS550M 550W Black power supply</a>. </p>
<p>Is there a viable alternative that </p>
<ul>
<li>Meets my power requirements? (I believe the 550W is enough, correct?)</li>
<li>Costs about $80</li>
<li>Is energy efficient</li>
<li>Is modular (optional, but nice to have)</li>
</ul>
|
Power supply advice - 550W range
|
<p>Personally, I would spend the time and do a proper CAT5e/6 installation; meaning running cable in/through the walls, terminating properly, hiding the network gear so it's out of sight. The benefit of being directly connected is the reliability of the connection is so much greater than that of WiFi.</p>
<p>But...</p>
<p>If you want to go wireless, I would forgo the USB route and go for a PCIe Wi-Fi adapter. It's not that USB is bad in any sense of measure, it's just you will get better reliability being directly attached to the PCIe bus rather than the USB bus.</p>
<p>I have used the <a href="https://goo.gl/i4t6E0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter (PCE-AC68)</a> on a computer out in a warehouse where we couldn't easily run a network cable until we could get a crew with a scissor lift. </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/90OSAm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/90OSAm.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nzJ4Km.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nzJ4Km.png" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQ2FIm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQ2FIm.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>What was nice about this particular model was that you had the option of plugging the antenna directly into the card or (what we did) use the optional "base." This allowed us to put the antennas up high, away from the metal desk as to not interfere with the radio signal. </p>
<p>The reason I mention this over USB adapters and obviously cheaper alternatives is because you mentioned "a gaming mobo." Gaming requires bandwidth and this will deliver every time.</p>
|
5956
|
2016-10-11T18:05:47.383
|
|usb|wifi|pcie|
|
<p>I am choosing Wi-Fi adapter for my PC, the mo-bo is Asus z170 gaming pro and wonder which card to choose or whether go with nano usb stick like TP-Link TL-WN725N nano. I'll be sitting in the same room that roter is. I'm not sure whether it's better to go with PCI-E extension card or usb stick. What road (usb/pci-e) and what specific device would you reccomend?</p>
<p>edit:</p>
<p>I use PC daily for work and gaming (so the ping counts), which equates to around 50 GB of transfer monthly.
The budget is 50$ but I really do not want to spend more than 10$ for fancy radiators and additional antenas if it is not going to provide any benefit.</p>
|
Wi-Fi Adapter for PC
|
<p>Having done many ERP integrations in warehouses and retail, there was pretty much one wireless barcode scanner that stood out and that was <a href="https://www.zebra.com/us/en/products/scanners.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Symbol</a> (now Zebra).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjAKu.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjAKu.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>They do make a <a href="https://goo.gl/ZVm8tB" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bluetooth scanner - DS6878SR</a> and given your (increased) budget this should work nicely.</p>
<p>Personally, I wouldn't go for the smaller name scanners. Symbol is an industry standard and their reliability is unmatched.</p>
|
5965
|
2016-10-12T19:40:19.960
|
|bluetooth|barcode-scanner|
|
<p>I'm looking to find a Bluetooth 2D Barcode scanner. I work at a local schoolboard and we receive shipments of Chromebooks for student use, so we have to tag and inventory each unit by inventory number and serial number.</p>
<p>The boxes have a QR code (which contains the serial number) and we place a standard UPC barcode on them. I've been using an Android phone to scan these, but it takes more time than a scanner usually does (focusing camera, etc).</p>
<p>I just have four requirements:</p>
<ol>
<li>Reads QR and standard barcodes (UPC). Datamatrix codes would be nice too, but necessary.</li>
<li>Uses bluetooth, not a 2.4Ghz receiver.</li>
<li>Under $250</li>
<li>Easy to read instructions, in English.</li>
</ol>
<p>I had found <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01GRI34YM">this scanner</a>, but when we went to order it, it became unavailable. So, now I'm on the hunt for a new one and thought I'd ask here.</p>
|
2D Barcode Scanner, with Bluetooth
|
<p>If you're not going to be overclocking (though if you have that system, <em>why wouldn't you be overclocking</em> is likely a better question), then the <strong><a href="http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=E51620V4BX&c=CJ" rel="nofollow">Intel Xeon E5-1620 V4</a></strong> is a better gaming processor than the Intel Core i7-5820K or the Intel Core i7-6800K. Those processors feature more cores and threads but lower clock speeds, and games don't yet really need more than eight threads. The lower price on the E5-1620 v4 is nice too. </p>
<p>The only real downside here is that this is a locked processor, so you won't have any ability to overclock. If for some reason you're not going to be doing that, then by all means get the Xeon mentioned above.</p>
|
5975
|
2016-10-14T02:20:20.133
|
|graphics-cards|processor|
|
<p>I recently bought a GTX 1080 Founders Edition that I'm connecting to an ASUS ATX ROG STRIX X99 Gaming Board. I've heard that the new <a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz" rel="nofollow">Intel i7 Processor</a> would a good buy, but are there any other good gaming processors that would go well with my current equipment?</p>
|
Recommended Processor
|
<p>I consider Brett's answer incomplete and rather subjective, so I'll toss in my two cents. </p>
<p>First, there are great differences between the different switch types - <em>and some of them can be rather annoying to the wrong person!</em> It all boils down to preference. </p>
<p>I will explain in short:<br>
<strong>1. Linear and Tactile</strong><br>
- Linear switches travel smoothly right down to the bottom. There is no feedback to your finger when the actuation happens so unless you are confident about the key travel/bottom-out (or look at your screen) you cannot be certain that the key has been actuated.<br>
- When you push down a tactile switch, you can feel the actuation for when it happens the switch will give in a bit. In other words, the peak actuation force required for activation is a bit higher and upon activation it drops.<br>
Out of these, I prefer linear for typing and tactile when gaming.<br>
<strong>2. Clicky and Silent</strong> (applies only to tactile switches)<br>
The names are pretty self-explanatory. I recommend watching a couple of videos in order to gather an idea about how clicky switches sound. Many people are very annoyed with the sound while others love it. Be very careful when you pick this for your girlfriend as it can turn out to be an annoyance either for you or for her...or both of you might actually enjoy it! ;)<br>
I used to like clicky switches back in the day but I've grown to admire the soft bottom-out sound only.<br>
<strong>3. Actuation force</strong><br>
Different switches have different springs in them - some are lighter, while some are heavier. This is again a very important factor because some people tend to rest their fingers on the keyboard and are likely to accidentally actuate them.<br>
I like heavier keys (60-70 grams peak actuation force) but most people tend to like 45g springs.<br>
<strong>4. Switch travel</strong><br>
- Classic Cherry switches have a 2mm travel before actuation, out of a total of 4mm travel.<br>
- The new Cherry switches, Silver use the lighter (45g) springs and are a linear switch with a shorter travel time (1.2mm actuation, 3.4mm total travel distance).</p>
<hr>
<p>Kailh switches are basically a Cherry MX rebrand after their trademark expired. There are also other brands which copy Cherry but let us not digress that far.</p>
<hr>
<p>Now that you know all this, here is a listing of the most common Cherry MX switches:</p>
<p>(<strong>switch colour</strong> - tactility, noise, stiffness, travel) </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Red</strong> - Linear, Silent, Soft (45g), Normal (2/4mm) </li>
<li><strong>Silver</strong> - Linear, Silent, Soft (45g), Short (1.2/3.4mm)</li>
<li><strong>Brown</strong> - Tactile, Silent, Soft (45g), Normal (2/4mm) </li>
<li><strong>Blue</strong> - Tactile, Clicky, Soft (50g), Normal (2/4mm) </li>
<li><strong>Black</strong> - Linear, Silent, Stiff (60g), Normal (2/4mm) </li>
<li><strong>Green</strong> - Tactile, Clicky (loud), Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm) </li>
<li><strong>Clear</strong> - Tactile, Silent, Stiff (65g), Normal (2/4mm) </li>
<li><strong>Grey (dark)</strong> - Linear, Silent, Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm) </li>
<li><strong>Grey (light)</strong> - Tactile, Silent, Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm) </li>
<li><strong>White</strong> - Tactile, Clicky (soft), Stiff (80g), Normal (2/4mm)</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>As for a keyboard recommendation, there are also different formats - depending on the use case, you might not need a numpad. I will recommend in each:</p>
<p>Full size:<br>
<strong><a href="http://www.duckychannel.com.tw/page-en/ducky-shine-5/" rel="nofollow">Ducky Shine 5 RGB</a></strong>, because<br>
Sturdy and overall flawless build quality, which is very characteristic for the Ducky brand. Those keyboards are held in high regard even in the keyboard enthusiast circles;<br>
You can pick between Cherry MX Brown, Red, or Black switches;<br>
Plug-and-Play;<br>
14 pre-programmed lightning modes, along with 2 fully customizable (per-key brightness, colour, and pulsation);<br>
ABS Double-shot keycaps. ABS is a high quality plastic (usually last for well over 15 years before losing its characteristics) and only very rarely do you find stock PBT caps, with PBT being considered by many the ultimate plastic allow to last nearly forever on a keyboard;<br>
All the macro and settings profiles are stored on the built-in memory, meaning you can move it wherever and still keep your settings;
USB cable is detachable and replaceable. You can buy another, fancier one, or make your own if you so desire!<br>
What the keyboard lacks for some people are dedicated multimedia/additional buttons, however all that either built-in (Fn+key combo) or is fully customizable anyway.</p>
<p>Tenkeyless:<br>
<strong><a href="http://www.duckychannel.com.tw/page-en/One-TKL-RGB-version/" rel="nofollow">Ducky One RGB TKL</a></strong>, because<br>
It sports a smaller size and is a more compact fit on your desk, leaving more space for your mouse and providing a more comfortable stance with less spread hands;<br>
Again a very solid build quality;<br>
Slim bezels and compact frame which further enhance the space-saving benefit of TKL keyboards;<br>
Detachable and replaceable cable allows for better portability;<br>
Plug-and-play;<br>
Again ABS doubleshot keycaps with sandblasted finishing;<br>
Cherry MX Blue, Red or Brown switches;<br>
10 lighting presets with three custom lighting zones;<br>
Evenly lit legends on the keycaps.</p>
|
5989
|
2016-10-17T04:26:27.183
|
|keyboards|
|
<p>Can anyone give me advice on a good mechanical keyboard? It's a present for my girlfriend, so i don't know much about them. Probably used for a 50/50 mix of gaming and typing. Would really like one with RGB back lighting.</p>
<p>Budget ~$200 USD</p>
<p>Appreciate any help.</p>
|
Recommended mechanical keyboard for gaming/typing
|
<p>Well, some more information would be appreciated.</p>
<hr>
<h2>Use case:</h2>
<p>First, what kind of games do you play? Let us assume AAA titles as they tend to be the most demanding in terms of hardware.<br>
Second, what resolution and refresh rate do you play at? For 1080p, 60Hz you will be more than fine. Arguably, for that resolution your GTX 1080 is a bit overkill; a 1070 should suffice.</p>
<p>For 1440p you should be able to max out all titles, possibly with a lighter form of anti-aliasing and a smaller sample count.</p>
<p>Anything 4k you will not need heavy AA in the first place, so with tweaking demanding effects like some lightnings and AO you will be able to maintain 60 FPS.</p>
<hr>
<h2>Suggested changes:</h2>
<p>My recommendation for your build would be to change the CLC to a good air cooler. They are bulkier indeed, but offer equal, if not better, performance at the same price point often with less noise produced. <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/product/9bFPxr/be-quiet-cpu-cooler-bk019" rel="nofollow">Something like this</a> should do the job, and do it good.<br>
On that note, if you intend to go past a soft CPU overclock (anything over 1.28-1.3VCore) for 24/7 usage, I would recommend a motherboard with a beefier power phase design.</p>
<hr>
<h2>Further information:</h2>
<p>The number of SSDs doesn't really matter, unless you need the tremendous speed from a RAID 0 array.<br>
On that subject, you could use the m4 socket for <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/product/8WZ2FT/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mzn5e250bw" rel="nofollow">the same SSD</a> and squeeze out some extra performance while having less clutter.</p>
<hr>
<h2>Fans:</h2>
<ul>
<li>Should you decide to stay with the AIO, I could not recommend the EK Vardars enough to put on the radiator - I run a total of 12 fans on my rads and I'm very happy with them! </li>
<li>Case fans: well I use Vardars on mine, but I've heard that the Corsair SP120 fans are great.</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>P.S. Sorry but I cannot provide more than two links due to lack of Reputation. :)</p>
|
6041
|
2016-10-24T05:38:43.767
|
|gaming|
|
<p>So.. I'm building my very first gaming setup and so far it seems like it is really good and it will get the work done. I'm here seeking for suggestions from people who actually know about this. <strong>Will this run actual games in ultra? Maybe you can suggest me better fans to improve the default ones (quiter is better)</strong> Also, I'm using just one SSD, I see some people use two, <strong>why?</strong></p>
<p>Check the build on <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/list/nGGqbj" rel="nofollow"><strong>PCPartPicker</strong></a> or <a href="https://amzn.com/w/24LRMI5W3GZN6" rel="nofollow"><strong>Amazon</strong></a></p>
|
Is this i7 computer worth?
|
<p>I'd actually consider a good business-centred PC - We run the small form factor versions of the <a href="http://store.hp.com/us/en/mdp/desktops/elitedesk-800-tower-349549--1#!&Tab=features" rel="nofollow">HP Elitedesk</a> 800s at work, though I personally am biased towards a full desktop formfactor. Thinkstations are the lenovo equivalent and dell probably has one too. <em>Avoid</em> consumer models - they're uniformly crap.</p>
<p>There's a few nice things about this. When its under warranty, they'll handle it for you. I'd <em>personally</em> consider getting the processor I want with a baseline amount of ram, and upgrade the storage (to an SSD) and ram (to the max it would handle) myself but weight the minor amount of work vs getting someone to do it for you. </p>
|
6081
|
2016-10-28T00:48:47.040
|
|desktop|server|windows|development|
|
<p>I am looking at purchasing a new computer within the next few months, for use in work applications. I am an IT project manager (read groupie for programmers/DBAs/engineers), and have multiple clients with different needs. I need to be able to compile with Visual Studio 2015, maintain like 40 browser tabs across multiple instances simultaneously, run multiple instances of Excel, Access, and SQL Server each at once (Office 365/2016), Outlook, Project, Remote Desktop Connection, sandbox MS IIS, and similar productivity stuff. I will need to stick with Windows 10. </p>
<p>Currently, I just use the HDMI port to output to an LCD TV. I would probably continue that practice, but I assume VGA and DVI cords would work just as well on this and similar screens. I only use one screen right now, but I really should have multiple video output ports for future use. I also use a cheap USB wireless mouse/keyboard. I have a preference for 1) maintaining wireless, and 2) not paying for another mouse/keyboard. I seldom (3-4x/month) use USB, and doubt I would use more than 1 (besides my mouse/keyboard) at a time. I would like to have a CD-ROM (writable) drive, partially because I miss my cup holder, but I also get CDs about 5x/year. </p>
<p>I would like to have the option to be able to run additional OSs in order to replicate user environments at some point, and a virtual environment would be useful for other reasons. Neither would be common occurrences. </p>
<p>I plan to pay my ISP (once I am set up) to allow me to log into this machine remotely with one of my laptops, so I can still use it for processing and file serving while on site at a client. I am not a networking guy, and SE will undoubtedly be helping me to get that set up. I care little for the actual display quality during such a setup, but I will need to be able to open multiple very large (150x1,000,000) size spreadsheets, and do sort/filter on that data, displaying the result through remote desktop to my laptop. Probably nothing more intensive during the remote connection. </p>
<p>Building the computer myself would be cool, but that is about where the benefit for that (probably) ends. I remember installing a second 5.25 floppy drive on my first computer, and later an entire 20MB HD in the same computer (there was no one cooler than me in the whole world, at that point), but that is about where my building skills peaked. I soldered my brother's Playstation, installed multiple 4MB RAM sticks, and even took apart the power supply once. Now a days, I should be considered a novice at best in hardware matters. But, my wife's brother has a friend who knows a guy who says he could probably build a computer, so there you go. </p>
<p>This will definitely 100% be a business expense. That said, it might be nice to know I could do some leisure stuff, in case I ever get my work caught up. The most advanced game I have ever played is Civilization 4, and I can't imagine getting much more advanced than Civ6 within the next 4 years, and would probably be content sticking with Civ4, low graphics settings (I like what I like). </p>
<p>I don't really need to worry about any more expansion capability beyond what I have already mentioned. If my business is doing so well that I need to upgrade in less than 5 years, I can afford to buy another machine. </p>
<p>So, knowing that I need to purchase a Windows10 Pro license, are their any scenarios where buying the pieces and putting it together myself would be cheaper? (I doubt it)</p>
<p>Do different manufacturers have different track records, at the amount of computing power I will be doing (not much)?</p>
<p>I don't need to consider any special cooling, right?</p>
<p>And most importantly, what is the cheapest way to get a box that can fulfill those requirements?</p>
|
Computer for Home Business
|
<blockquote>
<p>... compiling hundreds or thousands of small files regularly. I'm trying to figure out which SSDs are fastest at that sort of workload (it's not often any of the files will be over 1Mb).</p>
</blockquote>
<p>An Intel Optane 900P Series SSD (for a <em>consumer</em> drive at reasonable prices).</p>
<p>Consider all your options:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Buy more memory. 16 gigabytes / 1 megabyte = 16,000.</p>
<p>If you only have 16 GB (or 8GB) of memory then buying more memory would be a good investment. Reading a file, even from a harddrive, is fairly quick; it's the conversion from text to assembly language and opcodes that takes processing effort, reading the files from memory is very fast.</p>
<p>More memory allows more space to do the operations necessary to compile the source and allows for a larger swap file, staving off the need to fetch from storage.</p>
<p>It also allows more breathing room for your program to execute and to have additional necessary programs running, speaking of which, close unnecessary programs during compilation.</p></li>
<li><p><strong><em>Any</em></strong> SSD will be much faster than a harddrive. You can buy an inexpensive and small SSD and be better off than using a harddrive for storage.</p>
<p>A 250 GB SSD will hold your operating system, a couple of games, your compiler toolchain and plenty of source code. You can use your old harddrive as a secondary drive and to backup your SSD.</p>
<p>Exactly which one to choose is mostly a matter of availability and price. A <strong><em>lot</em></strong> of what you are doing when writing the source code will involve very little disk activity. Once you get to the compilation that will involve reading the file, making <strong>many</strong> calculations as to how to optimize the output, and finally writing out the object file.</p>
<p>If you have lots of existing source code that you want to compile and intend to spend next to no time writing then the need for faster storage becomes a consideration.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>It depends on what you will be spending most of your time doing, arguably a CPU upgrade might be a greater benefit than memory.</p>
<p><strong>But</strong> let's assume you have gone through the above considerations and crunched the numbers, you want your question answered, <strong>as written</strong>.</p>
<ul>
<li>An Intel Optane SSD 900P Series (280GB, AIC PCIe x4, 3D XPoint) for approximately U$250 will provide an enormous speedup; <strong>above and beyond</strong> other SSDs. </li>
</ul>
<p>You could:</p>
<ul>
<li><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?i=computers&bbn=1292116011&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A1292110011%2Cn%3A1292116011%2Cp_36%3A2000-27000%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027458011&s=price-asc-rank&dc&qid=1550655249&rnid=6797515011&ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_three_browse-bin_6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">buy a no-name SSD for ~12% the price</a> of an Optane drive, or ...</p></li>
<li><p>buy one of the fastest non-Optane drives available (<a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/13761/the-samsung-970-evo-plus-ssd-review" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung 970 EVO Plus Series</a> - 1TB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD) and get 4x the capacity at the same price.</p></li>
<li><p><strong>For laptop use</strong> the slower <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/13037/the-hp-ex920-m2-ssd-review/8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP EX920</a> will extend your battery life per charge.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>AnandTech's <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/13761/the-samsung-970-evo-plus-ssd-review/10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">conclusion</a> is: the Optane is the fastest and most expensive, the not yet available <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/12580/samsung-reveals-m2-zssd" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M.2 version of the SZ985</a> is untested and an unknown price (expected to be comparable to an Optane and less expensive), the <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/13761/the-samsung-970-evo-plus-ssd-review/10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung 970 EVO Plus</a> Series will either save you money or gain you 4x the capacity for equal money, and the least expensive <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/13037/the-hp-ex920-m2-ssd-review" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP EX920</a> isn't far behind (or poor quality) and will save you U$100.</p>
|
6105
|
2016-10-30T13:13:12.773
|
|ssd|development|
|
<p>Front-end dev generally involves high read-write throughput and compiling hundreds or thousands of small files regularly. I'm trying to figure out which SSDs are fastest at that sort of workload (it's not often any of the files will be over 1Mb).</p>
<p>I'll be using Visual Studio, Code, Node, NPM etc.</p>
<p>Can anyone explain what features I should be looking for in the new SSD?</p>
<p>Note: I've read dozens of SSD benchmarks and most seem to have a low MB/s thoughput (~80Mb/s) when dealing with smaller files.</p>
|
What's the fastest SSD for Front-End Development?
|
<p>Just use a standard laser printer.</p>
<p>You can buy A4 sheets of labels and print onto those. Your document software (eg. MS Word) will have templates to easily set up the right margins for the label.</p>
<p>A laser printer is going to be far more practical than a label printer for this kind of scenario, where an automated flow is not required.</p>
|
6122
|
2016-11-02T00:43:39.480
|
|printer|
|
<p>I'm wanting a label printer for the specific purpose of printing labels for prototyping board games, to stick to playing cards. </p>
<p>I want to be able to design the labels on my computer, and have them print, ideally on to a roll of labels, rather than sheets of labels. </p>
<p>Label size isn't rigid - but I'm ideally wanting labels as large as possible that will fit on a standard playing card (a standard playing card is 2.5" x 3.5", so labels slightly smaller than that). </p>
<p>I would like the label printer to be able to print detailed images, though if there's an effective text only printer, it's worth considering. </p>
|
Label printer for printing labels from computer
|
<p>I think your best option is <strong>number 3</strong>. (Macbook Pro / no TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i7 6th Gen (2.4GHz up to 3.4GHz) / 8GB RAM 1866MHz / 256 SSD - At 1800$
)</p>
<p>I can't find specific recommended RAM capacity for xcode, but android studio recommends 8GB. Furthermore, the 6th gen i7 has a better benchmark than the other models mentioned and should suffice.</p>
<h2>In Conclusion:</h2>
<p>Choose Option 3 Because:</p>
<p>8GB meets the hardware recommendations</p>
<p>The 6th Gen i7 (4700HQ I assume) has a higher benchmark than the other options. This should mean smoother performance.</p>
|
6134
|
2016-11-03T13:01:48.410
|
|memory|processor|
|
<p>I'm looking to buy a new Macbook to do Web, Android, and iOS development. I now from experience that web development is not an issue as I'm currently developing on my 2011 Macbook Air with 4GB RAM. I tried XCode and Android Studio and the experience was terrible with all the lags especially when I run the emulator. My budget can go up to 1800$, with that I can buy one of the following options:</p>
<ol>
<li>Macbook Pro / no TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i5 6th Gen (2.0GHz up to 3.1GHz) / 8GB RAM 1866MHz / 256 SSD - At 1500$</li>
<li>Macbook Pro / no TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i5 6th Gen (2.0GHz up to 3.1GHz) / 16GB RAM 1866MHz / 256 SSD - At 1700$</li>
<li>Macbook Pro / no TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i7 6th Gen (2.4GHz up to 3.4GHz) / 8GB RAM 1866MHz / 256 SSD - At 1800$</li>
<li>Macbook Pro / with TouchBar / Intel Dual-core i5 6th Gen (2.9GHz up to 3.1GHz) / 8GB RAM 2133MHz / 256 SSD - At 1800$</li>
<li>Macbook Pro 2015 / Intel Dual-core i7 5th Gen (3.1GHz up to 3.4GHz) / 16GB RAM 1866MHz / 128 SSD - At 1800$</li>
<li>Macbook Air 2015 / Intel Dual-core i7 5th Gen (2.2GHz up to 3.1GHz) / 8GB RAM 1866MHz/ 128 SSD - At 1350$</li>
</ol>
<p>Things to consider:</p>
<ul>
<li>I'm not looking for the best of these options, I want a computer that can perform with minimum hiccups.</li>
<li>I only want a portable machine due to my line of work that's why I only picked Macbooks.</li>
<li>The prices displayed are final, there will be no taxes added as I'm buying it using student pricing program.</li>
<li>I don't work with external monitor nor do I need SD card, I will only buy a USB-A dongle if I have to.</li>
<li>This computer is supposed to last at least 3 years.</li>
</ul>
<p>Please help me decide which one to buy.</p>
|
Macbook Pro 2016 for iOS Development?
|
<p>As for another option, here's a build using an Intel CPU. Personally, I'm not a big fan of AMD CPUs, I haven't had a good experience with them. <a href="http://pcpartpicker.com/list/kdYfhq" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here's the link to the PC part picker list.</a> Again, everthing's off Amazon. I'd personally go with this Intel build over the AMD build I mentioned. The i3 6100 has a benchmark that is slightly above/better than the AMD A10 7800. Regardless, both these builds should do what you need.</p>
<p><strong>CPU</strong>: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($126.28 @ Amazon) </p>
<p><strong>Motherboard</strong>: MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($60.54 @ Amazon) </p>
<p><strong>Memory</strong>: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($41.99 @ Amazon) </p>
<p><strong>Storage</strong>: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Amazon) </p>
<p><strong>Case</strong>: Rosewill Galaxy-03 ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Amazon) </p>
<p><strong>Power Supply</strong>: CoolMax 400W ATX Power Supply ($23.22 @ Amazon) </p>
<p><strong>Other</strong>: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit OEM DVD ENGLISH ($75.99 @ Amazon) </p>
<h2><strong>Total</strong>: $406.00</h2>
<p>Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available</p>
|
6185
|
2016-11-10T02:41:33.207
|
|desktop|
|
<p><a href="http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=7_158&item_id=099743" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acer Aspire ATC-220-EB52 Desktop</a> (Refurbished)<br>
- AMD A10-7800 3.5GHz<br>
- 8GB DDR3<br>
- 1TB HDD<br>
- AMD Radeon R7 Graphic<br>
- Windows 10 Home 64-bit<br>
- CAD$ 409 + 13% tax</p>
<p>I am considering this for a general purpose desktop + Adobe Lightroom use. Will add an SSD to speed up. Thoughts?</p>
<p>My current Adobe Lightroom computer is a Mid 2013 MacBook Air and it works reasonable well. The <a href="http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=1944&cmp%5B%5D=2262" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CPU</a> & Graphics in the AMD A10 is better so the overall performance should be better (assuming Windows & Mac versions are similar).</p>
<p>Is this line of thinking accurate? Happy for alternatives or even a build recommendation within the same budget. Thank you.</p>
|
Refurbished Acer AMD A10-7800 Desktop
|
<p>There is no such thing as "850 Evo Pro" it's either EVO or PRO.
IN any case go for the Pro versions. I have lots of SSDs here, among them also the 850 Pro and the Kingston HyperX Predator 240GB PCIe.</p>
<p>If you do have a M.2 NVMe capable slot, then there's no question: go for that. SATA is really not suitable for modern SSDs anymore(the numbers you see with the 850 Pro are SATA maxed out).</p>
<p>So in terms of speed and shorter boot times, The Kingston is definitely it.</p>
<p>Nowadays there are some even better M.2 NVMe SSDs and you may want to consider if these are or are not within your budget. The performance hierarchy is </p>
<p>Samsung 850 Pro < Kingston HyerX < Samsung 950 Pro < Samsung 960 Pro</p>
<p>I have the Samsung 950 Pro in my notebook and it gives around 2.5 GB/s read and 1.1 GB/s write. As this is what Samsung announces, I tend to believe that the 960 Pro will deliver the 3.5GB/s read and 2.1 GB/s write although I haven't tested it personally yet.</p>
|
6193
|
2016-11-12T02:59:50.380
|
|ssd|
|
<p>I have a Samsung SSD being used as a boot drive through a SATA connection. I've been using it for about 8 years. It barely gets over 200 MB/s maximum in read or write performance. It's been used daily for pretty much all those years. I'm starting to fear that failure may be on the horizon as it significantly underperforms at times. Anyways, I'm looking for an upgrade that meets these requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Preferrably $100 USD or Less ($150 Max, but less is better)</li>
<li>At least 64 gigabytes (the one I'm using now is 64GB)</li>
<li><strong>1 Priority, Quick Boot</strong> (I have a drive just for programs and keep files on a raid array)</li>
<li>Purchasable through Amazon.com</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm considering connecting the drive through SATA III or PCIE. What should I go with? Are there more factors to consider when selecting a fast boot ssd?</p>
<p>In terms of drives, I'm looking at either the</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00LF10L02" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung 850 Evo Pro 128GB</a> Read: 550 MB/s Max, Write: 470 MB/s Max</p>
<p>or</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00V01C376" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kingston HyperX Predator 240GB PCIe</a> Read: 1400 MB/s, Write: 600 MB/s</p>
<p>But I'm certainly open to suggestions. Thanks!</p>
|
SSD Boot Drive Upgrade, considerations
|
<p>After some consideration I am going with Plex layered on top of FreeNAS, and using a Chromecast for the HDMI head end and using the Plex/Chromcast App on my tablet to perform the control.</p>
|
6246
|
2016-11-18T14:17:22.720
|
|server|hdmi|video|
|
<p>I have an HP proliant micro server sitting in my home office and I want to stream photos and videos off this device and display it on my TV in another room. The TV also sits next to an ethernet hub and my preference is to connect the TV to network via this hub.</p>
<p>What I am looking for is an output device that will sit on the network to talk to the server and provide an HDMI/1080p output to the TV. I am currently planning on using <a href="http://www.freenas.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FreeNAS</a> on the serve up the data, (but I am not bound to that), so the solution would need to be able to browse/select the media to play.</p>
<p>I also don't need this device to do anything else other than serve up data from the NAS.</p>
<p>Suggestions?</p>
|
Ethernet to HDMI output
|
<p>You should <em>seriously</em> consider the newer chip for rendering.
I shall weigh up the + / - as if we refer to upgrading to the newer CPU.</p>
<p><strong>-</strong> It has been shown on TOM's hardware many times that there is little difference for gaming, due to the CPU clock-speed being a big factor in games still. Consider this a small minus as CPU has VERY little effect on game performance (it's all about GPU, baby!)</p>
<p><strong>-</strong> You will need to buy new RAM as you stated, and it's not really much better in performance for games... Video it is, but only a little bit.</p>
<p><strong>+</strong> Power usage / thermal control is a LOT better on the 6000's, so it will distract your gaming a lot less with quieter fans.</p>
<p><strong>+</strong> Video encoding MUCH faster on the new i7's if the software is optimised for it (it will be).</p>
<p><strong>+</strong> (this is the one that got me) Upgrading Mobo means you get all the sweet new features such as USB3.1 and type-C connectors. Future-you will thank you for this investment.</p>
<p>Also, EUR200 is too much for that old CPU. I mean, performance-per-dollar it's OK, but if you really look hard for second-hand machines you will find one (probably with case and PSU) for half that price.</p>
|
6265
|
2016-11-21T10:17:27.670
|
|gaming|processor|
|
<p>I got an offer to buy a used Core i7-4770 with Asus Motherboard and 16 Gigs of DDR3 RAM for 200 Euros. This offer comes to pass very good because I am thinking about upgrading my computer.</p>
<p>Currently, I use an AMD FX-6300 on an MSI Board which recently started having issues on boot. GPU is the Sapphire R9 270X, but I will upgrade to an GTX 1070 soon. </p>
<p>My question now is, should I take that deal for 200 Euros or should I save some more money to take a new i7-6700 with DDR4 instead. How is the Performance to Value comparison?<br>
I compared the two CPUs using <a href="http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=1907&cmp%5B%5D=2598" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="CPUBenchmark.net">CPUBenchmark.net</a> and the Benchmark Points are different by just 200, which does not seem much compared to the difference from my FX-6300 to the i7's (which is about 3k Points difference).</p>
<p>In case you need some information about my main usage of the PC, I play a lot of games like Rainbow Six Siege, The Division, Overwatch, Paragon (guess that's the cpu-heaviest game of those) and I also do a lot of rendering to MP4 (live and non-live).</p>
|
i7 4770 Cheap Deal vs i7 6700
|
<p>Yes. You can use two SODIMMS of different capacity. Case in point, my MSI GL62 shipped with 12GB of ram, an 8GB and a 4GB SODIMM. The same goes for a Desktop with full length DIMMS.</p>
|
6267
|
2016-11-21T12:58:56.070
|
|memory|
|
<p>Today i planned to Play GTA V on my PC. So i require some Specs for My pc. I have computer/laptop of 2gb RAM that is not enough to play that game. So decided to buys some 4gb RAM for my laptop. Can i Add 2gb RAM and 4gb RAM to make it 2+4=6GB RAM?</p>
|
Can I Use Two RAMS of Different Size in Laptop?
|
<p>For your listed purposes I would suggest the Apache Pro.</p>
<p>The SSD will speed up the loading of the OS, as well as editing programs installed to it, and the 16GB of ram will come in handy in media creation and 3D modeling.</p>
|
6303
|
2016-11-25T06:45:20.737
|
|laptop|graphics-cards|gaming|
|
<p>I am planning to buy a gaming laptop and I have narrowed them down to these two laptops</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01IO9Y3A6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI GE62VR Apache Pro-001</a> - Price Around $1200 - $1300</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01M0COXDI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI GP62VR Leopard Pro-218</a> - Price Around $1100</p>
<p>I am sure that I need a gtx 1060, given how poor of choice it would be to take a 900 series gpu based laptop now. Also I need a 1080p laptop (since I need only a 15.6 inch screen and I feel that a higher resolution at this size is not that noticeable) itself, so going for a higher end gpu like a 1070 is probably overkill for a 1080p laptop. </p>
<p>The only major difference between them is the VRAM. For GE62VR there is a 6 GB VRAM for 1060 gpu, but for GP62VR there is only 3 GB VRAM and I read that the extra 3 GB is not that needed, at least for the next 3-4 years to come (correct me if I am wrong). Also one more thing that bugs me is the fact that there are no reviews about GP62VR, so I am not sure if it's a good laptop. However the GE62VR has many good reviews online, but the GP62VR is a bit cheaper.</p>
<p>So given the circumstances, and my current budget of about $1100 - $1300, which of these two laptops would you suggest?</p>
<p>P.S. On a side note, for my budget, would you suggest a different 1080p, GTX 1060 laptop altogether aside from these two?</p>
<p>Edit:
I plan on using the laptop for gaming and maybe learning 3d modeling, game design etc in future, so I may run cinema 4d, blender, adobe products in future but only as a hobbyist or a beginner.</p>
|
Which of these two laptops is better?
|
<p>Changing the CPU is not as easy as adding RAM or swapping a HDD. It is a FULL dissasembly. Have a look at this <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnTC07oqiLo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">video here</a>. Still want to do it, then narrow your list of possible options. We can use the Intel ARK to get a <a href="http://ark.intel.com/search/advanced?s=t&SocketsSupported=BGA1288&VTX=true" rel="nofollow noreferrer">list</a> of processors that will fit in your laptop. Looks like the <strong>Intel i3-330M</strong> is the cheapest processor which supports VT-x and isn't a downgrade. </p>
<p>Are you sure you want to take the effort to swap one five-year-old processor for another? I have a feeling you could get a used laptop with VT-x enabled almost as cheap as buying a core and replacing it. </p>
|
6306
|
2016-11-25T17:24:29.900
|
|processor|virtual-machines|
|
<p>I have a basic laptop - an eMachines E732Z. It has an Intel Pentium P6200 processor.</p>
<p>I need to run a 64-bit virtual machine, but I can't because the processor doesn't support VT-x.</p>
<p>I therefore want to upgrade the processor to one that supports hardware virtualisation.</p>
<p>Requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Intel rather than AMD (but only because I've never fitted a new processor before and I don't want to find that an AMD doesn't fit on the motherboard. If this requirement is unnecessary it can be waived).</p></li>
<li><p>As cheap as possible. Virtualisation-support is my only requirement; I don't require any other upgrade in performance.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>I have researched chips already in terms of features and price, but there are so many options and features that I don't understand (this would be my first ever hardware-component purchase, I'm a real beginner with this stuff) it's hard to find just a basic upgrade.</p>
|
Budget processor that supports hardware virtualisation
|
<p>Okay did not get much response here so I did 5 more days of research and this is what I came to.</p>
<p><strong>Processor:</strong> i7-6800K </p>
<ul>
<li>Reason: I decided due to the amount of multi-tasking I do that the extra cores were too enticing to pass up.</li>
<li>Vendor: Microcenter - $329.00</li>
<li>Note: There was a sale so the processor was only $10 more</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Cooler:</strong> Corsair Hydro H100i V2</p>
<ul>
<li>Reason: I figured I would be tempted to overclock the 6700K so I justified the cost on both processors (another reason why I went with the 6800K)</li>
<li>Vendor: Amazon - $99.99 (on sale)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Motherboard:</strong> ASRock X99 Taichi</p>
<ul>
<li>Reasons: True quad channel MB, 8 DIM slots, dual NICs, builtiin Wi-Fi, dual M.2 ports, USB Type-C port, well-spaced PCIe ports</li>
<li>Vendor: NewEgg - $199.99 - $20 Rebate + $0.99 Shipping = $181.98 (I could have saved another $30 with the combo at Microcenter but they did not have this board) </li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Ram:</strong> GSkill Ripjaws 4 DDR4 4x8GB 3000MHZ</p>
<ul>
<li>Reasons: Ripjaws 4 was built specifically for Quad Channel vs Ripjaws 5 Etc / Good Value</li>
<li>Vendor: NewEgg $199.99 - $20 Promo Code = $179.99</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Video Card:</strong> Gigabyte GeForce GTX1060 GV-N1060G1GAMING-6GD</p>
<ul>
<li>Reasons: Do you know how hard it is to find and verify that a video card will actually support 4 monitors? I do now. Besides that it seems like a decent card for my purposes.</li>
<li>Vendor: Amazon - $274.99 - $20 rebate = $254.99</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Storage:</strong> Plextor M8PE M.2 2280 512GB NVMe</p>
<ul>
<li>Reasons: Super fast drive, almost as fast as Samsung 960 Pro for a lot less money. Samsung 960 Evo is not out yet (this would have been my preference).</li>
<li>Side note: I really wanted the AIC version of this drive but I goofed around and it sold out. Other vendors were too expensive and now I will have to get heatsink recommendations for this from this forum</li>
<li>Vendor: Newegg $249.99 - $25 Promo code = $224.99</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>PSU:</strong> Corsair CS Series CS750M 750W Gold</p>
<ul>
<li>Reasons: Plenty of power and room for extra stuff, gold rated, semi-modular, ON SALE</li>
<li>Vendor: Amazon - $79.99</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Case:</strong> Undecided, but I am going to go down to Frys and get something locally.</p>
<p>Total Cost: $1350.93</p>
<p>This ended up being a very painful experience but I do feel like I got a really good system out of this. I really struggled with another issue as well and that is the fact that the i7-7700K Is coming out in a month and smashes this processor in benchmarks. In the end when that happens most likely I will give this computer to my wife and daughter and put myself through this misery again. </p>
<p>I hope this helps someone if they have this same struggle.</p>
|
6307
|
2016-11-25T19:17:25.313
|
|motherboard|memory|ssd|hard-disk|processor|
|
<p>I am looking for some recommendations for my new I7 Build.</p>
<p><strong>What I use it for</strong></p>
<p>Day to day business work</p>
<p><strong>Applications open at once</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Adobe Illustator</li>
<li>Firefox (11 Tabs)</li>
<li>Chrome (5-10 Windows / 10-20 Tabs in each)</li>
<li>Skype</li>
<li>QQ Messenger</li>
<li>Jitsi (VOIP Dialer)</li>
<li>Outlook</li>
<li>Notepad ++</li>
<li>Windows Photo Viewer (typically 3-10 images)</li>
<li>Amazon S3 Viewer</li>
<li>Excel (3-10 Docs)</li>
<li>Word (1-2 Docs)</li>
<li>Open VPN</li>
<li>One Drive</li>
<li>FileZila</li>
<li>BitVise</li>
<li>Windows explorer (3-5 Windows)</li>
<li>Calculator (thought i would throw this in to be accurate)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Occasionally Open</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Edge</li>
<li>Internet Explorer</li>
<li>Acrobat</li>
<li>Adobe Bridge (this could be more frequent in the future)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Visualization Information</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>I will be using 3 Monitors at 1920x1080 Resolution but I will be wanting to add a 4th in the very near future</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Overclocking</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Looking for recommendations here</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Budget</strong></p>
<p>Originally I was planning on doing this build under 1000 but now I am thinking i am going to end up in the 1500 range. I have money to burn but I don't like burning it.</p>
<p><strong>What I know I want</strong></p>
<p>I7 Processor</p>
<p>32GB Ram (Dual Channel if I go 6700 quad if i go 6800)</p>
<p>500GB SSD or NVMI</p>
<p>PLAIN Case (its a business not an art show)</p>
<p>GPU that can handle my quad monitor setup</p>
<p>USB Type C Port on MB (Unless someone has a reason why not)</p>
<p><strong>Current Conflicts</strong></p>
<p>I7-6700K vs I7-6800K</p>
<p>Air Cooled vs Water Cooled</p>
<p>DDR4 3000 vs Faster</p>
<p>Sata SSD vs NVMi SSD </p>
<p><strong>Areas where I have not a clue</strong></p>
<p>MotherBoard</p>
<p>GPU</p>
<p>PSU (I do know how to add so my plan was to take everything add up the wattage and give my self about 20% head room)</p>
|
I7 Build I am conflicted
|
<p>While I can't judge on the given SSD model, I can issue a recommendation for another one.</p>
<p>The <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00OBRE5UE" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD</strong>.</a></p>
<p>Here's why it's a good SSD:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Price.</strong> It's 130USD on Amazon right now and thus just as expensive as the SSD you linked.</li>
<li><strong>Speed.</strong> <a href="http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Evo-500GB/Rating/3477" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The 850 Evo will go to 400MB/s no problem.</a> Anything beyond that will depend on your system but probably won't make noticeable differences in practice.</li>
<li><strong>Durability / Warranty.</strong> <a href="http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/M2M/html/support/warranty.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung gives you a <strong>5-year / 150TBW warranty</strong> on this SSD</a>, meaning Samsung guarantees that your SSD will still work perfectly fine if you use it for less than 5 years and write less than 150TB (300 complete writes over the drive or 84GB / day) during that time-span. Chances are this SSD won't fail you even if you go beyond the 150TBW limit. In fact, even the less-durable predecessor with half the storage (for which Samsung only gives you three years of warranty) survived <a href="https://techreport.com/review/27909/the-ssd-endurance-experiment-theyre-all-dead" rel="nofollow noreferrer">300TBW without major issues.</a> It is thus expected that you can go at least up to 500 - 1000TBW without loosing the 850 EVO. If you want even more you need to put down the additional 90USD for a 850 PRO which should survive a few PB worth of writes.</li>
<li><strong>Brand.</strong> Samsung flash storage has a very good reputation.</li>
<li><strong>Software.</strong> <a href="http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/download/tools.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung provides software</a> for all its SSDs to optimize the system perfomance (stuff like enabling AHCI). The software also tells you how much data has already been written on your SSD.</li>
</ul>
<p>As a non-exhaustive personal opinion: I have used this very SSD for more than 1 year now </p>
|
6317
|
2016-11-27T15:41:24.750
|
|hard-disk|
|
<p>I need to urgently choose an external hard drive. I need IT to run windows 10 on my iMac, since virtual machines shows too low performance in my case. I think I need an SSD, since its data transfer rate faster than the HDD. </p>
<p>I know that if SSD fails - it fails entirely, but I will not store important data on it (I need it for working with Hololens emulator and several other programs). And I hope with careful treatment, he will live longer</p>
<p>So, I'm looking for:<br>
<strong>SSD<br>
500GB or more<br>
$50-150 max</strong> </p>
<p>Here is a model I have found - <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B016JREG84" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016JREG84/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER</a><br>
<strong>What do you think about it? Would you recommend different one?</strong></p>
<p>I need an answer urgently, and I would be very grateful for your help!
Thank you very much in advance!</p>
|
Urgently choosing SDD - need advice!
|
<p>Your requirements sound similar to my home server, except that I went with an internal RAID-6 array -- so that's $400 in hot-swap bays, cases, and controller cards you won't need to spend.</p>
<p>At the cheaper end of the price range, buying pre-made usually costs less than building your own. The mostly-preassembled option I'd recommend would be an <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856205007" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel 2550L2D-MxPC</a> for about $130. It's got an Atom D2550 CPU (four years newer and considerably more powerful than my Atom 230), dual gigabit ethernet, two USB 3.0 and four USB 2.0 ports. You'll need to add RAM ($45 for 8 GB) and a boot drive ($40 for either a 500GB hard drive or a 120GB SSD). Like almost all of Intel's products, it's Linux-compatible.</p>
|
6319
|
2016-11-27T22:59:13.060
|
|linux|server|
|
<p>I need a home server for running couple of services, since my current hardware is aging. For example:</p>
<ul>
<li>DHCP/DNS-Server</li>
<li>Mail-Server</li>
<li>File-Server (SMB, AFP, FTP)</li>
<li>CalDAV / CardDAV</li>
<li>ownCloud, maybe WordPress</li>
</ul>
<p>USB 3.0 is a requirement, since I want high I/O-Rates beyond 25MB/s, also access times should be fast (e.g. Hosting the library of a photo manager on the network share with lots of small file reads). The CPU/RAM should be juicy enough to carry out those requirements on the various file protocols, and to run the ownCloud PHP stuff smoothly.</p>
<p>I want to focus on low power consumption because of the 24/7 runtime. The number of hard drive bays doesn't really matter, I'm using USB-Drives so far and don't necessarily need to change this. Operating system will be some Linux, I don't want any custom/proprietary flavour e.g. Synology DSM, just plain Linux with full control. Display output won't be needed at all. No redundancy is needed as well, so one PSU and one gigabit Ethernet port should be enough.</p>
<p>What kind of hardware should I choose to get the most performance with least power consumption and lowest cost? I thought on ~400€ (~430$) max, don't know if that's possible. Of course it'd be nice if the requirements were possible at even less than 400€.</p>
<p>I'd prefer to buy the individual components and assemble the system myself, but I don't know if it gets cheaper with pre-built systems. Are there pre-built systems that meet my requirements? What hardware would you choose if you had to assemble a similar system?</p>
|
Low-Power Home Server
|
<p>This is the setup I have;<br>
2 Dell 24" monitors<br>
1 Samsung 49" tv (4:4:4 chroma)<br>
This works out well because the TV has almost exactly double the diagonal measurement, meaning that windows dragged across have the same size on the 4K as they do on the side monitors. I really love the setup for work. </p>
<p>I'm using a Radeon RX470 and it works pretty good, mostly.<br>
On occasion the screens will just kinda blink, and I don't know if that's because the video card is having trouble keeping up, or something else. </p>
<p>I'd really love to try a Geforce GTX 1070 for a week to see if it does the same thing.</p>
<p>One thing I'll say, it is really important to make sure that you have the right HDMI cable. We tried a '4K ready' Monster cable and it failed to show a picture. So we ordered one that can specifically handle 16GBps and that worked. It was also cheaper.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jA3W6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jA3W6.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
6325
|
2016-11-28T16:06:12.223
|
|graphics-cards|4k|uhd|
|
<p>I want to use multiple monitors for my PC, three in total.</p>
<p>I would like to know what graphics card would run:</p>
<ul>
<li>1 x UHD (3840 x 2160) monitor</li>
<li>2 x Full HD (1920 x 1080) monitor</li>
</ul>
<p>Which is the cheapest solution for this?</p>
<p><strong>Not for gaming</strong>, using for work.</p>
|
Graphic card which supports 1xUDH and 2xFull HD output
|
<p>I would probably go with this one: <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132691&ignorebbr=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS Z170-E</a></p>
<p>These points jump out, at least at me:</p>
<p>DDR4 memory overclocked to 3466MHz(max compatible speed)
Onboard USB 3.1 Gen 2 for 10Gbit/s data transfer speeds
Lightning-fast M.2 with PCIe 3.0 x4 interface </p>
|
6346
|
2016-11-30T18:05:46.800
|
|gaming|motherboard|
|
<p>What motherboard from the Asus z170 chipset line offers the most set of features? I did some research and it looks like the z170-a is the one but I could be wrong. I'd like to have a motherboard that offers the most features even if I won't necessarily need them. I just like to have the most possible options.</p>
<p>Here are a few things I would hope to include but don't let that affect your answer:</p>
<ul>
<li>USB 3.1, type a and c</li>
<li>Possibility to do SLI in the future</li>
</ul>
<p>Some things that I plan to do with the system are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Everyday usage</li>
<li>Gaming</li>
<li>Web development and running WAMP server for development</li>
<li>Media server using Plex</li>
<li>Photoshop</li>
</ul>
<p>I already plan on buying a GTX 1070 graphics card so I can play games on the highest graphics settings possible.</p>
|
Asus motherboard in the $50-$150 range
|
<p><a href="http://us.dlink.com/products/connect/wi-fi-ac750-portable-router-and-charger-3/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">D-Link AC-750 Portable</a></p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00HGLOQ24" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon Link</a> $98.09</p>
<ul>
<li>IEEE802.11ac/n/a/g/b</li>
<li>Allows simultaneous 2.4G and 5G Networks</li>
<li>USB 5V Charging</li>
</ul>
<p>Additionaly serves as an additional battery and power source for other devices. </p>
<p>From reading the reviews it seems to be able to run on its own power for at least 4 Hours</p>
|
6372
|
2016-12-04T16:32:20.123
|
|usb|router|
|
<p>Is there a portable or travel wireless router that supports 5GHz 802.11ac? I'm looking to install one in my car with through its integrated USB port, or via 12v DC adapter?</p>
|
Is there a portable or travel wireless router that supports 5GHz 802.11ac that can be powered via USB?
|
<p>For whoever looking for a solution to the similar problem, I went with <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B017BQ8I54" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this club3d adapter</a>. You will need to use SwitchResX software to force OSX to output 4k@60Hz. There are tons of online resources on how to create a custom resolution in SwitchResX, so I'm not going to post it here. Club3d is a bit more expensive than @NZKshatriya's suggestion. I would give it a try before buying Club3d. </p>
|
6377
|
2016-12-05T06:29:34.327
|
|hdmi|display-port|4k|
|
<p>I just bought Sony X800D TV and it comes with 2 hdmi ports that do 4k at 60Hz and 1 HDMI port that does 4k at 30hz. I have 2015 Macbook Pro 15" with iris pro IGP. As you guys probably know, this macbook support just HDMI 1.4 and it only does 4k at 30hz. I want to output 4k at 60hz and my TV only has HDMI, so I cannot use display port or thunderbolt from my mac. I'm wondering if I could use mini displayport to HDMI adapter to output 4k 60hz. I tried one adapter from Wal-mart with 4k label, but my mac doesn't even recognize the TV is 4k capable anymore. </p>
<p>P.S : I'm not sure if this is the right forum to ask this question. If it is not, let me know.</p>
|
Mini displayport to HDMI adapter that does 4k at 60hz
|
<p>This is a tech support question and will likely be closed, but to answer the question, it should work. I have in the past run multiple OS's on external disks, then installed them into the chassis with no problem. All that changes is the connection interface.</p>
|
6389
|
2016-12-06T13:09:03.640
|
|hard-disk|osx|
|
<p>I installed OS X 10.12 on an external drive. I'd like to now swap the internal drive with the external drive. Will this work?</p>
<p>--- UPDATE</p>
<p>Thanks. for anyone else who is interested.</p>
<ul>
<li>OS X installed on an external will indeed work when added as an
internal drive</li>
<li>You CANNOT install Windows (via bootcamp) on an external drive</li>
<li>A windows bootcamp installed on an internal drive cannot be booted when used as an external drive</li>
</ul>
|
Can I use an external HD with OS X as an internal boot disc?
|
<p>I was able to work around this solution with the use of a couple of HD68 to IDC50 converters and an IDC50 cable. Not the best solution but it looks like the connector on the board was a bit too propriety (even though it was still a standard SCSI cable). In the end it worked and there does not appear to be any interference from using a short internal cable externally.</p>
<p>I was able to find the Dell cable (P/N: 5984D), though that did turn out to be male on both ends, it was worth a shot.</p>
<p>Hope this helps anybody that might run into this.</p>
|
6391
|
2016-12-06T14:02:37.860
|
|scsi|
|
<p>I trying to source an HD68 (Female) -> HE68 (Female) SCSI cable (2 meters) with one end of the cable with a 90 degree angle for an instrument we are using. If does not matter if the 90 is a right of left as we are only concerned with the clearance from the back of the instrument to the container.</p>
<p>If there is an adapter that does this versus a cable that would work to, though looking around I have been unable to find any cable that match this requirement. Any information on this would be great, thanks!</p>
|
HD68 -> HD68 SCSI Cable with angle
|
<p>I would recommend the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B019EYYNP0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Z170A SLI PLUS</a>. It costs about $135 on Amazon.com. I use this motherboard in a personal rig, and it performs well.</p>
<p>The reasons why I would recommend this motherboard are:</p>
<ul>
<li>It uses the z170 chipset, which is overclockable, and because it will allow you to overclock you unlocked i5 6600k.</li>
<li>Supports DDR4-3000 RAM</li>
<li>Has four DIMM slots</li>
<li>Has room for large CPU coolers -- I'm using a <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00E1JA1PA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thermaltake NiC C5</a> with this motherboard. The NiC C5 a large cooler but, it still allows me to use all four RAM slots.</li>
<li>6 SATA ports with RAID 0, 1, 5 and 10 Support</li>
<li>Reinforced PCIe x16 Slots for large graphics cards</li>
<li>Excellent Overclock-ability </li>
<li>ATX Form Factor</li>
<li><a href="http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-z170a-sli-plus-review,19.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Reasonable iGPU performance</a> (integrated GPU)</li>
</ul>
|
6419
|
2016-12-10T16:07:55.617
|
|desktop|
|
<p>I'm looking for a desktop configuration. Primary use would be processing photographs in Lightroom and Photoshop (very basic). As far as I read in such use cases graphic card is far less important than fast memory, a fast CPU and a fast disk.</p>
<p>I was thinking about the following configuration:</p>
<ul>
<li>CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K BOX 3.5GHz, 6MB </li>
<li>Memory: Patriot Viper 4 DDR4 DIMM 2x8GB 3000MHz </li>
<li>SSD: ADATA 256GB SP600 SSD</li>
<li>HD: WD 1TB 64MB SATA III </li>
<li>DVD: LG GH24NSD1 BLACK RECORDER DVD SATA</li>
</ul>
<p>EDIT:</p>
<p>Now, I am looking for motherboard for this configuration. It must:</p>
<ul>
<li>have graphic card built-in</li>
<li>have a possibility to connect external graphic card in the future</li>
<li>have 4 DIMMs slots</li>
<li>seat a core i5-6600K</li>
<li>have WiFi built-in</li>
<li>have a space for CPU cooler, because the mentioned i5 doesn't have it's own cooler</li>
<li>preferrably ATX</li>
<li>budget ~130 USD</li>
</ul>
<p>What motherboard would you recommend?</p>
|
Motherboard for photo processing
|
<p>There is no really alternative to GPD Win currently as a handheld Steam-available gaming device (except... GPD Win 2 probably).<br>
I ended up getting the GPD Win ; I played a bit more on it recently (after having applied the recommended tweaks) and like it a lot. </p>
|
6423
|
2016-12-11T06:16:24.307
|
|gaming|portable|steam|
|
<p>I recently learned by chance about the <a href="http://www.google.com/search?q=gpd+win&&tbm=isch" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GPD Win</a>, a "laptop fitting in your pocket".</p>
<p><a href="https://c1.iggcdn.com/indiegogo-media-prod-cld/image/upload/823_11_yleijl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://c1.iggcdn.com/indiegogo-media-prod-cld/image/upload/823_11_yleijl.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I had been looking for a portable machine with joystick/controllers that I could take on a crowded metro, and that could allow me to play some of the game titles of my Steam collection, and GPD Win seems to be an excellent candidate.<br>
However, this <a href="http://www.reddit.com/r/gpdwin/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Reddit forum</a> seems to suggest that the machine requires a number of tweaks to be taken the most of.</p>
<p>Are there more user-friendly similar products, in the sense that they do not require customizations to provide the best "nomad Steam gaming" experience?</p>
|
GPD Win alternatives for hand-held Steam gaming?
|
<p>I would like to add something to the answer.</p>
<p>There is confusion whether I am using AM2+ socket or AM3 sockets. Until today I still have a hard time believing that the same CPU with same product code have 2 versions.</p>
<p>This is very confusing. Hence, we can't know the socket just from the CPU code, which is currently Athlon II X2 240.</p>
<p>And this is where my main problem is.</p>
<p>Well if we want to know, the way is to use a software called CPU-z. From that software I easily find out that my mobo uses AM3 socket with DDR 3 memory.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zBTEq.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zBTEq.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gwv9h.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gwv9h.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Once I know the socket, finding the right CPU is easy.</p>
<p>Just go to <a href="https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html#id11" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.cpubenchmark.net/socketType.html#id11</a> and there are lists of CPU</p>
<p>AMD II Phenom X6 is one of the thing that fit as NZKshatriya said.</p>
<p>Another I would like to add is that the CPU doesn't have several version. That one CPU simply fit on several sockets.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-3365776/cpu-socket-versions.html#19455769" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-3365776/cpu-socket-versions.html#19455769</a></p>
<p>Still not sure.</p>
|
6432
|
2016-12-12T08:10:43.657
|
|processor|
|
<p>Current processor is: <strong>AMD Athlon II X2 240</strong></p>
<p>Current Motherboard is: <strong>DPJ Indonesia MP-A880GD23 V1.1</strong></p>
<p>I am looking for a CPU with around twice the benchmark potential. I will be reusing the same motherboard, so matching the CPU socket is essential.</p>
<p>In searching for a CPU, I have found what seems to be conflicting information which states that the CPU is an AM2+/AM3 CPU.</p>
<p>If there is more than one CPU available, please list them so I may choose which one I would prefer.</p>
<p>According to Belarc the memory module is</p>
<pre><code>6144 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory
Slot 'DIMM0' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM1' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM2' has 2048 MB (serial number SerNum02)
Slot 'DIMM3' has 4096 MB (serial number SerNum03)
</code></pre>
<p>I have no idea whether the motherboard support AM2+ or AM3 port. I have o idea whether the memory is DDR3 or DDR2</p>
<p>The motherboard is so old it's not produced anymore.</p>
<p>My CPU-z says I am using AM3 slot</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gtniQ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gtniQ.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
Seeking a replacement for an Athlon II X2 240
|
<h2>HD Radeon RX 460 is the way better option.</h2>
<p>Since an AMD solution was explicitly requested for technical reasons, how about the <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150780" rel="nofollow noreferrer">XFX HD Radeon RX 460 for $99</a>? It's significantly better than the R7 250 and not much more expensive.</p>
|
6438
|
2016-12-12T15:18:19.553
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I'm looking for a similar AMD cheap modern replacement of this card (Radeon HD 4870 1-Gb 256 bit GDDR5) for my old computer but i'm not very sure about the way to go. Price between (50$-100$)</p>
<p>What modern AMD card would have a similar or better performance and work with my computer in that price range?</p>
<p>The PC specs are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Intel Quad Q9550 2.83 Ghz</li>
<li>RAM: 4 Gb 1333 MHz</li>
<li>Motherboard: ASRock G41C-GS</li>
<li>PSU: 750 W</li>
</ul>
|
Replacement for old Radeon HD 4870 1-Gb 256 bit GDDR5
|
<p>From Seagate's <a href="http://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/expansion-fam/expansion-external/en-us/docs/expansion-desktop-hard-drive-ds1843-2-1502us.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>data sheet</strong></a>, I've noticed 3 things: </p>
<ol>
<li><p>The only thing different across different models (with different serial numbers) is the capacity. </p></li>
<li><p>STEB5000200 is marketed for EMEA region (Europe, middle east and africa), while STEB5000100 is for America (NA I would suppose). </p></li>
<li><p>They both have 5TB capacity so there shouldn't be any obvious technical differences, apart from marketing, quota and maybe import tax.</p></li>
</ol>
|
6451
|
2016-12-14T13:52:45.943
|
|hard-disk|
|
<p>What's the difference between</p>
<ul>
<li>Seagate Expansion 5TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEB5000100)<br>
and </li>
<li>5TB USB 3.0 3,5 Seagate Expansion Desktop, STEB5000200 ?</li>
</ul>
<p>The first is 50 % price of the second.</p>
<hr>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Deskt" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Deskt</a>…/…/ref=sr_1_1</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Deskt" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Deskt</a>…/…/ref=sr_1_1</li>
</ol>
|
Why is there such a price difference between two seemingly identical drives
|
<p>The theoretical single-precision rating of a single Titan X Pascal is 11 TFLOPS per <a href="http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/07/gtx-titan-x-pascal-specs-price-release-date/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the media (ArsTechnica)</a>.</p>
<p>If you multiply 11 by 4, and assuming you have enough PCIe lanes to support all of these GPUs under full load, and assuming you have enough CPU and memory bandwidth to "feed" a real workload to each of these cards maxed out, that would be <strong>44</strong> TFLOPS single-precision.</p>
<p>You will never be able to use this kind of raw horsepower for gaming, even with an ideal workload on DirectX 12's <a href="http://arstechnica.com/gaming/2016/02/directx-12-amd-and-nvidia-gpus-finally-work-together-but-amd-still-has-the-lead/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EMA</a>. The only way you could hope to utilize it all would be with a very high-end CPU (or perhaps multiple Xeon E5 CPUs), high clock rate DDR4 for system memory, and using OpenCL or CUDA on embarrassingly parallel single-precision workloads.</p>
|
6462
|
2016-12-15T14:29:00.007
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>If you where to combine 4x titans how many teraflops do you get? <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqxBJ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">just a pic</a></p>
|
How many gflops does 4 way sli titan x pascal have?
|
<p>Generally, yes and without issue. However it will depend on the memory controller (Modern systems have moved this onto the CPU itself).</p>
<p>In almost all cases on modern systems you will see the RAM down-clock itself to match the lowest denominator of the chips, this might lower the FSB and the timings.</p>
<p>If one of the chips runs at an odd voltage however, I would not advise mixing them as the system likely won't finish POST.</p>
<p>Finally, if you have two banks for memory (1+2 & 3+4) generally the mismatched pair should sit on different banks. Refer to your motherboards manual for confirmation.</p>
<p>On the performance upgrade of 20%, we can't say without knowing what your utilization looks like and if RAM is the bottle neck. 4GB is a good minimum for just about any computer, doubling to 8GB+ will almost certainly provide a noticeably gain for most applications.</p>
|
6492
|
2016-12-20T17:33:05.320
|
|memory|
|
<p>I want to combine 1666 mhz DDR3 4 gb ram with a 1666 mhz DDR3 8 gb ram.</p>
<p>Is there might be problem about it by motherboard and can they work good together?</p>
<p>I want a performance upgrade like %20.</p>
<p>Thank you for your answers.</p>
|
Can 2 different model rams can run well together?
|
<p>I am not aware of any non-x86 consumer-level CPUs, ie. ones where you can simply purchase and slot together all the parts for a computer.</p>
<p>Various <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ARM_architecture" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ARM</a> CPUs can be purchased individually, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OpenCores" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OpenCores</a> has some CPU designs that can be loaded up on an FPGA, but these aren't end-user-friendly: they require sufficient electrical-engineering skills to design a mainboard for connecting the CPU to things like memory or a video controller, or at least the assembly skills to build someone else's design.</p>
<p>The only non-x86 CPUs I'm aware of that were ever even remotely available to consumers in "build-your-own-computer" form were the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEC_Alpha" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DEC Alpha</a> (discontinued in 2001) and the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PowerPC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PowerPC</a> (you could cobble together something from Apple spare parts until about 2005).</p>
|
6500
|
2016-12-22T01:33:35.117
|
|processor|processor-architecture|
|
<p>Definition of "processor:" A CPU that has to be attached to a motherboard. May or may not have integrated graphics. Does not contain other computer parts such as memory (other than parts crucial to the functioning of a modern processor such as registers and cache), sensors, connectors (other than the socket), etc.</p>
<p>Definition of "individually:" Is not contained as part of a mandatory bundle. Is not a part of a "system on a chip" or other similar constructs.</p>
<p>Definition of "can be purchased by the average joe:" Does not require a corporate contract. Does not require a phone call to the company. Does not require a bunch of hoops to be jumped through. Can be bought at a quantity of 1.</p>
<p>Companies that are included in "x86:" Intel, AMD, and other minor x86 manufacturers. (Even though other architectures by Intel such as IA32, etc. are completely different from x86, I am not interested in them)</p>
<p>Other preferable things: Motherboards, Memory, and all of the other components required to make a working personal computer (luxuries excluded) to be available.</p>
<p>This question was asked out of curiosity, but it may have practical applications as I am a very casual hobby operating system developer looking to dabble in non-x86 architectures.</p>
<p>I find it hard to believe that x86 is the only computer architecture that you can actually purchase individual components for and build a personal computer. If that is the case, that is really a shame =(</p>
<p>Further clarification: I am looking for a socketed CPU</p>
|
Is there a non-x86 processor that can be purchased by the average joe individually?
|
<p>Since this question has been asked some time ago, I feel, I should update you on the actual accepted solution, see below.</p>
<hr>
<p>I have found, that <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>M-Disc</strong> (Millennial Disc)</a> technology could allegedly endure up to 1000 years.</p>
<p>A little comparison image:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pT3rj.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pT3rj.png" alt="M-Disc vs other storage media"></a></p>
<p>I have bought the below Blu-Ray writer; you can find their compatibility with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M-Disc</a> DVD/Blu-Ray 4.7/25/50/100 GB <a href="http://www.mdisc.com/m-ready/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">on this page</a>.</p>
<p>My final pick of the writer was: <a href="https://www.asus.com/Optical-Drives-Storage/BW16D1HU_PRO/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS BW-16D1H-U PRO</a></p>
<p>It is noteworthy to say, that any Blu-Ray reader can read these M-Discs.</p>
|
6502
|
2016-12-22T05:33:43.653
|
|hard-disk|blu-ray|
|
<p>BD-R XL vs External HDD for storage of data of long life span?</p>
<p>What I am considering in this question are two options:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>BD-R XL (e.g. <a href="http://www.verbatim-europe.co.uk/en/prod/bd-r-xl-100gb-4x-wide-inkjet-printable-5-pack-jewel-case-43789/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Verbatim BD-R XL, 4x, 100GB, 5 ks, jewel, printable</a>), cost 75,-EUR</p></li>
<li><p>External HDD of the same size, 500GB that is, e.g. <a href="http://www.verbatim-europe.co.uk/en/prod/store-n-go-usb-3-0-portable-hard-drive-500gb-black-53029/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Verbatim Store 'n' Go USB 3.0 Portable Hard Drive 500GB Black</a>, cost 74,-EUR</p></li>
</ol>
<p>It does not have to be Verbatim, is does not have to be only 500GB. These are only examples for direct comparison.</p>
<p>What would you recommend and why?</p>
<p><strong>EDIT1</strong>: Budget is unlimited.</p>
<p><strong>EDIT2</strong>: The amount of data I would like to store is at maximum 5TB. Starting at 0.5TB right at this moment. The solution should be disk-failure-resistant if it is a RAID array.</p>
|
BD-R XL vs External HDD for storage of data of long life span?
|
<p>Finnally found one on the right corner : <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20170619143550/https://www.leboncoin.fr/informatique/1150237579.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://web.archive.org/web/20170619143550/https://www.leboncoin.fr/informatique/1150237579.htm</a></p>
|
6516
|
2016-12-24T22:29:23.940
|
|wireless|hdmi|windows|
|
<p>I have an Intel® Widi compatible smart tv. Unfortunately, Intel withdrew support for that technology in their latest drivers. So their will never be a display driver that support both Intel WiDi and Vulkan correctly.</p>
<p>I can’t connect the computer with an HDMI cable, <em>(there’s 5m of distance without counting walls)</em>.</p>
<p>In the meantime, I have a huge problem at connecting Windows 10.1 to any Miracast system <em>(most of the time, it doesn’t work)</em>.</p>
<p>So I want to connect my computer to my TV in the same way I would do with an HDMI cable :
I want a device that I would plug on the HDMI output of my computer which would stream video to an another part connected to the TV <em>(through HDMI)</em>.</p>
<p>The latency should be low enough to let playing video games through a Bluetooth joystick <em>(while sending 1080p @ 60Hz with stereo output)</em>.</p>
<p><a href="https://wclink.co/link/658/0/1/1546" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I saw</a> <a href="http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&format=2&p_id=8087" rel="nofollow noreferrer">several products</a>. But they all cost more than 100€ and/or are not sold in the € currency.</p>
|
Wireless HDMI transmitter / receiver for less than 100€
|
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