Answer
stringlengths 65
22.3k
| Id
stringlengths 1
5
| CreationDate
stringlengths 23
23
| Tags
stringlengths 4
70
| Body
stringlengths 77
30.1k
| Title
stringlengths 15
149
|
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
<p>Yes, that stylus will work. It's capacitive and so is your device.</p>
<p>Sometimes, online listings like that will include a list of "compatible" products, either in the title or in the description. The list doesn't really mean anything, but if someone searches something like:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><code><popular device> stylus</code></p>
</blockquote>
<p>the listings with <code><popular device></code> are more likely to show up higher in the search results.</p>
|
6521
|
2016-12-25T07:46:40.147
|
|smartphones|
|
<p>I'm looking to buy a pen to be used with my moto G, and it has to have a fine point because I plan on writing with it.</p>
<p>So I know <a href="https://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/tradeshow-promotions/stick-stylus.htm?variant=BLANK&imageID=239801&feed=google&gclid=CMq2q_frjtECFUiRfgodL_kA7Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these kinds</a> of pen work with any capacitive screen and hence it works the moto G. But they're too thick.</p>
<p>So I'm planning on buying <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Fine-Round-Thin-Tip-Capacitive-Touch-Screen-Stylus-Pen-Pink/131826450280?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D7a3d4e181fba4831ab6477bdcbbbfc1c%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D381667178163" rel="nofollow noreferrer">one of these</a>. The issue is that the website gives out a list of compatible devices with just a few devices on it (moto G not in it). But my question is: if this is a capacitive pen, shouldn't it work with all capacitive screen devices? Can I be sure that this pen will indeed work?</p>
<p>Also, is there a better option to get a pen that work the 1st gen Moto G phone?</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
|
Will a capacitive pen work with a moto G phone?
|
<p>You might try what's described in <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_ruqSrkxNU" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> video. </p>
<p>Basically what he does is bend the "retention pins" inside the female end of the USB port so that the male plug is held in more firmly.</p>
<p>I'm not sure if your "USB drive" is a "stick" that just plugs in, or a short cable with a portable HDD on the end.</p>
<p>If it is a portable hard drive with a cable, (see image) you could do what user NZKshatriya suggested in <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6523/is-there-such-a-thing-as-a-schleptop-small-portable-desktop-ish/6527#6527">a previous question</a> and "<em>just use double sided tape or velcro, and attach them to the lid of the laptop</em>.".</p>
<p>So in conclusion, the two best options I think you have are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Bend the (possibly loose) USB "retention pins" on the female USB plug </li>
<li>"just use double sided tape or velcro, and attach them to the lid of the laptop" (assuming that it is a portable hard drive)</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bF9Uw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bF9Uw.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
6535
|
2016-12-27T00:31:40.887
|
|laptop|usb|
|
<p>My old(ish) macbook has run out of storage, so I bought an external USB drive. I have installed mac OSX onto it and it is now my main boot drive. I fear the drive USB may come out occasionally given that the macbook is a portable device. Is there anything which can physically keep / lock the USB in place to eliminate this threat?</p>
|
How to keep / lock USB in place
|
<p>Since you are not looking to overclock or anything save yourself a few bucks and go with the I7-6700 Retail Box <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0136JONG8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I7-6700 on Amazon</a>.</p>
<p>Fan verification based on model from <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/88196/Intel-Core-i7-6700-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_00-GHz#@specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel</a>. It is said to include Thermal Solution - E973979. <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Radiator-Intel-Original-CPU-PWM-Socket-1156-E97379-001/dp/B005M0NW1M" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Link for Picture</a></p>
<p>If you decide you want to go with a i7-6700K you have two options</p>
<p>Fan cool it and never plan on overclocking us a <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005O65JXI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO</a>.</p>
<p>Water cool it with a <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00A0HZMGA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Corsair Hyrdo H60</a> and give yourself flexibility on being able to overclock in the future and stay in your budget.</p>
<p>In the end, there is no need to spend the extra money on the "K" version of the CPU to begin with if you are not going to overclock</p>
|
6536
|
2016-12-27T01:37:59.957
|
|cooling|processor|
|
<p>I am looking for a decent cooler for my i7 6700k. I have <em>not</em> bought the CPU yet. So, if there is a (not that great at terminology) ATX sized cooler that is ~<60 dollars, that would be great.</p>
<p>Unless, of course, the 6700k already has a stock cooler. Please only tell me if it has stock if you have bought it. I have read multiple sites saying it does and doesnt. Pictures would be awesome.</p>
<p>I'm not overclocking, and playing games like Minecraft, FSX, Kerbal Space Program, and Planet Coaster. Also, I use Sony Vegas Pro 14 for video editing and rendering.</p>
<p>Noise is not an issue for me since I'm using headphones.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Edit: thanks to commenters for suggestions.</p>
|
Intel i7 6700k cooler
|
<p>The other answer's suggestion is a <em>bit expensive</em> for my taste (with several hundred dollar).</p>
<p>So I can recommend the soundcard I'm using myself to power my 5.1 speaker system. However you don't really need all the features so instead I'm gonna recommend the functionally largely equivalent, but cheaper version:</p>
<h2>The ASUS Xonar U5</h2>
<p>On <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00MI8IDRE" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon.com</a> and <a href="https://www.asus.com/Sound-Cards/Xonar_U5/overview/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">on the official website.</a></p>
<p>For the relevant I/O it features 3x 3.5mm jack output for your speakers as well as S/PDIF. The audio processor seems to be just slightly worse than that of my card but should still do a good job. Not that I don't know whether Dolby Live (a driver technology to dolby digital encode the system audio on the fly so you can squeeze the data into the bandwith limit) is a thing for the U5 so you may not be able to use more than two speakers over SPDIF.</p>
<p>OS compatibility is a given and it will work with all Windows and OS X / macOS versions (at least down to Win7).</p>
<p>If you're feeling fancy you could also go with the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00E7QA9E0" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xonar U7</a> however then you'd have to look out for the fact that left and right have RCA instead of 3.5mm jack output (but the bundled software seems to be better with the U7).</p>
|
6541
|
2016-12-27T17:42:07.947
|
|audio|audio-adapters|
|
<p>I have an older Logitech 5.1 speaker system for my computer that uses 3x3.5mm plugs for input. All of my newer computers only have a single 3.5mm output <strike>that handles 5.1 + voice</strike> (<strong>apparently I was mistaken, this is not possible</strong>). What kind of converter can I use to funnel all three of those speaker inputs into a single output?</p>
<p><strong>Edits based on comments:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Speaker model is X-540</li>
<li>I'd like to get full 5.1 support with decent quality audio, but if the best we can do within budget is simply get all the speakers working I'll take that solution too.</li>
<li>Budget is around $100 but less is always better</li>
<li>The speakers will be shared via KVM among 3-4 computers, all with 5.1 support via USB but none with optical/coax</li>
</ul>
|
Plugging a 3-cable 5.1 speaker system into a single 3.5mm jack
|
<p>Sockets are the answer. Generally, modern intel CPUs use sockets in the LGA 11xx format. I don't know what your CPU uses for it's socket, but before you ask: no, you cannot get socket adapters for cpus. If the sockets aren't compatible, you need a new motherboard, and maybe more.</p>
<p>The socket type should be silkscreened onto the motherboard somewhere.</p>
<p>Read the top comment on this answer for a bit more info.</p>
|
6544
|
2016-12-28T01:40:49.470
|
|processor|motherboard|compatibility|
|
<p>I have a somewhat old Dell Precision T7500 desktop with this 64-bit Intel Xeon CPU: <a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/48768" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://ark.intel.com/products/48768</a></p>
<p>I have been thinking about upgrading this CPU to an Intel i7 CPU.</p>
<p>It looks like this CPU corresponds to this one at cpu-upgrade.com:
<a href="http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Xeon/E5645.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Xeon/E5645.html</a></p>
<p>On the right side of above page at cpu-upgrade.com is a link to a "Intel X58 Express" page (under "Intel Xeon E5645 chipset compatibility"). This link leads to this page:
<a href="http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-Intel_(chipsets)/X58_Express.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-Intel_(chipsets)/X58_Express.html</a></p>
<p>Above page lists some i7 CPU's as compatible with the chipset on this motherboard.</p>
<p>I have two questions I wanted to ask:</p>
<ol>
<li>Is this information all I need to determine which version of the i7
CPU I could upgrade to?</li>
<li>If not, how can I determine if I need to replace the entire
motherboard?</li>
</ol>
|
How to determine if I can just upgrade the CPU or if have to upgrade the whole motherboard?
|
<p>You could use a HDMI to SCART converter like <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00NX0KVLC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>. </p>
<p>Operation is fairly simple, you take the HDMI output from your computer and plug it into the HDMI input on the converter, then plug your TV's SCART cable into the SCART output on the converter.</p>
<p>Since your computer has a VGA output, add a VGA to HDMI converter like <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00NBUTHJG" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one.</a> </p>
<p>VGA output -> VGA to HDMI converter -> SCART Converter -> TV input.</p>
<p>You will probably need to match the output resolution with the resolution of your TV.</p>
|
6549
|
2016-12-28T21:21:44.510
|
|television|video-adapters|
|
<p>The model of the TV I've got is kind of old, but is pretty big and I'd like to watch movies on it, played from the computer. I'm not a specialist, but does any of you guys have any experience with this situation?</p>
|
My TV only has SCART connector, how can I hook it to my computer?
|
<p>Like BigElittles, I'm a Plex fan, and my current preferred method for viewing my own videos and photos is Plex-through-Amazon-Firestick. If I had a smart TV (w/web browser), I may have accessed Plex via the web interface - I have Plex running as a service <em>on my home server</em>.</p>
<p>I also use Kodi; it's possibly more expandable than Plex, but certainly I think Plex is the more polished of the two.</p>
<p>Prior to this, I used a Western Digital WDTV box and an AC Ryan Playon HD Mini - both essentially the same thing: a little box that connects to your network, and/or local storage and plugs directly into your TV. Out of the two, I preferred the WDTV box. Most of these devices have a fully functional remote, rather than the simplified remotes that come with the Firestick/Chromecast. Roku 3 is the current offering from the supposed 'market leader'; I don't have any experience of these, but they are well liked and respected.</p>
<p>Given the rise of Plex/Kodi & Firesticks/Chromecast, these Media Players are falling out of favour, so should be fairly cheap to pick up. In fact, I still have both of mine, because the resale value of them is so little.</p>
<p>Furthermore, unlike Firesticks\Chromecasts and the like, <strong>they don't require a computer/server/NAS</strong> to provide access to your external hard drive. You connect your TV to the media player and your external disk to the media player and you are up and running.</p>
|
6551
|
2016-12-28T23:55:57.737
|
|television|smart-device|
|
<p>I have been moving my DVD collection to a 2 TB external hard drive, and I was wondering what my options are for viewing the media. I am not particularly interested in streaming the content since my internet is not great, but I would like to be able to view the shows and movies on my main TV. One of the most important things is that I want the media to be organized nicely. So, thumbnails, descriptions (and other meta data), and TV shows ordered my season and episode. A remote would also be nice, but if it can be controlled from an android phone that would be okay too. For the ports HDMI and USB 3.0 are optimal. Is there something that is rather inexpensive ($100 or less) that can do this? </p>
|
Device to view TV shows and movies stored on a hard drive in an organized manner
|
<p>I originally posted <a href="http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r23090159-hard-drive-HP-Pavilion-laptop-bizare-SATA-disk-resolved" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this article on: HP laptop/MHV2120BH HDD</a> as a comment.</p>
<p>It turns out that the correct connection is/was always there. There was an adapter fitted over the SATA connector, for use with HPs internal connector.</p>
<p>Am re-posting as an answer in order for others to find more easily.</p>
|
6581
|
2017-01-03T00:13:28.600
|
|laptop|hard-disk|sata|
|
<p>I have an ancient hard drive from an old HP laptop. I haven't looked at it in years. But now I want to get the old data off that hard drive. I have been to all of my local electronics shops but none of them sell an adapter that fits my hard drive.</p>
<p>Does anyone know of a SATA-like adapter that will allow me to pull my old data off via USB or something?</p>
<p>Here are some specs from the Model number:
General Product Information:</p>
<p>Manufacturer: Fujitsu</p>
<p>Manufacturer Website: www.Fujitsu.com</p>
<p>Manufacturer Part No: MHV2120BH</p>
<p>Product Type: Internal Hard Drive</p>
<p>Product Specifications:</p>
<p>Storage Capacity: 120GB</p>
<p>Spindle Speed: 5400RPM</p>
<p>Drive Interface: SATA 1.5Gbps</p>
<p>Form Factor: 2.5Inch</p>
<p>Cache: 8MB</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgSaA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgSaA.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Holding the hard drive.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1YzL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1YzL.jpg" alt="FemalePiece"></a></p>
<p>Picture of the female piece. This is what I pulled the hard drive out of.</p>
|
What hard drive connector is this?
|
<p>You might take a look at this: <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Monitors/Dell-U2715H-27-Inch-Widescreen-IPS-LED-Monitor/B00P0EQD1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483467017&sr=8-1&keywords=Dell%20UltraSharp%20U2715H%2027-Inch%20Screen%20LED-Lit%20Monitor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell U2715H 27-Inch Widescreen IPS LED Monitor</a> on Amazon.co.uk for £394.93</p>
<p>Fits your requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>1440p Resoluiton</li>
<li>60Hz Refresh Rate</li>
<li>27 inch</li>
<li>IPS LED </li>
<li>Multiple Display Inputs: 2x HDMI, 1x Mini Display Port</li>
<li>Under budget</li>
</ul>
<p>The average review for this screen on Amazon.co.uk is 4.6/5, which isn't too bad. The average is 4.4/5 on <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00P0EQD1Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon.com</a>. </p>
<p>One review on the .co.uk site does mention dead pixels however, I wouldn't be too concerned since the majority of reviews expressed satisfaction with the performance/quality of the display.</p>
|
6585
|
2017-01-03T10:51:49.890
|
|gaming|monitors|
|
<p>I'm currently looking for a new monitor for gaming and watching movies.</p>
<p>The resolution should be WQHD (2560x1440) or WQXGA (2560x1600) as I fear that with a 4k monitor my GTX1070 graphics card would hit the limit on newer games to soon.</p>
<p>The size should be between 24" and 27". I don't have enough space on my desk for a bigger or ultra wide screen.</p>
<p>The monitor should have an IPS panel, because I usually lie on my bed when watching movies. So the viewing angles of TN panels would be problematic.</p>
<p>I don't have an specific requirements for the refresh rate. 60Hz will be enough, but more wouldn't hurt either.</p>
<p>The monitor must have at least 2 connectors. One HDMI and one Display Port would be optimal, but an other configuration shouldn't be a problem with adapters.</p>
<p>As I don't do any image or video editing, I have no special requirements for the color space.</p>
<p>G-Sync sound nice, but as I usually don't play many fast paced games, it isn't a requirement.</p>
<p>Also integrated speakers would be a plus, but are not necessary.</p>
<p>My biggest concern:
For basically every monitor I've look at so far, there are lots of reviews (on Amazon) from customers that have problems with backlight bleeding or uneven backlighting.
Are there any ways of reducing the chance to get a monitor with these problems, or monitors that fit my requirements and are known to rarely have these problems?</p>
<p>My price limit is 900 €.
But if there are offers for slightly more, that guarantee not backlight bleeding and no dead pixels that might be ok too.</p>
<p>Previously there was a hardware dealer who offered a zero backlight bleeding and zero dead pixel guarantee for an additional 200 €, but unfortunately that dealer went out of business some time ago, and I haven't found an other one with such an offer.</p>
|
1440p (WQHD) monitor with an IPS panel
|
<p>A quick search via newegg.com yields the following results:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826197104&ignorebbr=1&cm_re=logitech_wireless_headset-_-26-197-104-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Logitech G933</a></p>
<pre><code>Pro-G audio & 7.1 Dolby Surround Sound
Adjustable lighting up to 16.8 million colors
Flexible wireless or wired connection up to 12-hour battery life
Foldaway noise-cancelling mic
</code></pre>
<p>Wireless type: RF</p>
<p>Price: 169.99</p>
<p>and</p>
<p><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104624&ignorebbr=1&cm_re=logitech_wireless_headset-_-26-104-624-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Logitech H600</a></p>
<pre><code>Noise-canceling microphone
2.4 GHz wireless
Six-hour rechargeable battery
</code></pre>
<p>Wireless type: RF</p>
<p>Price: 50.00</p>
|
6587
|
2017-01-03T13:22:13.133
|
|headset|
|
<p>There are two I am seriously considering, Logitech UE 4500 and Logitech Artemis G933, but I have no idea how to compare them.</p>
<ul>
<li>They are both wireless (a must)</li>
<li>They are both made by logitech (optional)</li>
<li>They are both 7.1 (a must)</li>
<li>They both contains mic (a must)</li>
</ul>
<p>The reason I like logitech is because I want their universal receiver. So basically I want one universal receiver for keyboard, mouse, and headphones. I do not want a bluetooth one (as another mode is okay). Quality of bluetooth sound is not good.</p>
<p>I prefer the one using real batteries rather than something you can charge. The purpose is for gaming.</p>
<p>Which one should I choose?</p>
<p>Price should be around $200. The cheaper the better. However, if there is a better feature on more expensive one please tell me and I may consider.</p>
<p>For some reason logitech doesn't list ue 4500 at all on it's website. I wonder why.</p>
|
Recommend me a wireless logitech headset
|
<p>Below you will find a link to a device that has only 1 review but it is a good review. I made the assumption that you are in or near the UK since you requested the price in Euros. It does require software to be installed on the computer though.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Interface-Software-Supplied-Multitester/dp/B00R33U78C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483502618&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter+with+usb+output" rel="nofollow noreferrer">True RMS Multimeter @ Amazon UK</a> £44.99</p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCURY-TRUE-RMS-DIGITAL-MULTITESTER-WITH-USB-INTERFACE-/252144038537?hash=item3ab4f4b289:g:zXkAAOSwA4dWL1eO" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lower price True RMS Multimeter @ Ebay</a> £39.99 Including Shipping</p>
<p>Bonus: This is a True RMS meter too.</p>
<p>I did find a more in depth review on this specific meter <a href="http://www.stevenhoneyman.co.uk/2016/06/mercury-mttr01-digital-multimeter-600104.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/CostMad-Universal-Universelle-Voltage-Replacement/dp/B003Z6ZUJ2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483551923&sr=8-6&keywords=dc+adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Universal power supply @ Amazon UK</a> for constant power. £8.79</p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EU-Plug-AC-100-240V-to-DC-9V-1A-Switching-Power-Supply-Converter-Adapter-Black-T-/221793302464?hash=item33a3e937c0:g:zd4AAOSwNSxVcZhf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lower price 9V Power Supply @ Ebay</a> £1.53 Including Shipping</p>
<p><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=%C2%A341.94+to+euro&oq=%C2%A341.94+to+euro&aqs=chrome..69i57.8542j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=%C2%A341.52+to+euro" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google currency conversion BP to Euro</a> 48.83€ As of 01/04/2017 if you use the lesser priced options and give up the Amazon luxuries.</p>
|
6590
|
2017-01-04T03:41:56.717
|
|usb|test-equipment|
|
<p>I hope this is the right SE, otherwise I might post it on electrical.</p>
<p>I am searching for a voltmeter with a digital output, either RS232 or USB. The ones I came around are very costly for my purpose.</p>
<p>This is what I do now: To measure the voltage of a lead acid battery I use a Raspberry Pi with a MCP3208 ADC and some resistors. It works, but it is a bit of an overkill for such a simple task in my opinion.</p>
<p>The search term "usb voltmeter" leads mostly to USB adapters which show the voltage/current of an attached USB device. Which is not what I want or need.</p>
<p>I don't want to pay more than 50 €, as you can get the RPi for less.</p>
<p>Although not critical, a small device would be preferred.</p>
|
Voltmeter with USB/RS232
|
<p>To translate your dimensions into normal terms, you're looking for a Mini-ITX (or Mini-DTX) board.</p>
<p>I'd recommend the <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132717&ignorebbr=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus H110I-PLUS/CSM</a>, $86 from Newegg:</p>
<ul>
<li>6.7" x 6.7"</li>
<li>Socket LGA1151</li>
<li>Two RAM slots supporting a total of 32 GB</li>
<li>One PCIe 3.0 x16 slot</li>
<li>Reasonably "full-featured": 4 SATA ports, 6 USB ports, Ethernet, eight-channel audio</li>
</ul>
<p>The chipset and voltage regulators are passively cooled with small heatsinks, which may or may not be a problem for a "very closed off case".</p>
<p>I don't have any experience with this particular product, but I've had good luck with Asus mainboards in the past.</p>
<p>Here is a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_form_factor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wikipedia link</a> to form factor sizes for reference. This can provide you all the options for size options that are offered based on size standards. Keep in mind that anything smaller than Mini-ITX is unlikely to have a PCIe slot, and is likely to have just a single SO-DIMM slot for memory.</p>
|
6602
|
2017-01-05T22:27:03.983
|
|motherboard|mini-pc|
|
<p>I need to fit a fully-functioning mobo with an LGA1151 cpu socket and a PCI-E x16 slot for my gpu and at least 2 RAM slots in a 11 x 5.5 x 7 case. It also has to have a maximum RAM capacity of at least 32GB. No need for fancy stuff like LED controllers or anything though. Just the bare functional basics, because it will be in a very closed off case, so it doesn't need to look nice at all. Does anyone know of a 1: Very small but full-featured motherboard, or 2: a company that would be willing to manufacture 1-2 motherboards of a very small size for a couple hundred dollars. Any other options would also help, but those are the main 2 things I'd be looking for. My budget per board is around $250, give or take a bit.</p>
<p>EDIT: I've read around a bit, and I've figured out that it will probably be way too much money to make a mobo, but what about modding an already made one? </p>
|
Tiny motherboard with full functionality?
|
<p>I cannot find a cube style but the following did come across as a good option.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163223&ignorebbr=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SilverStone PS08B @ Newegg</a> 39.99</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00A1ZU1I0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SilverStone PS08B @ Amazon(prime eligible)</a> 39.99</p>
<p>Just posted the Newegg link along with the Amazon link, due to the fact that Newegg is much better with item specifications....and power searches...than Amazon is.</p>
<p>Just a few specs on the case:<br>
2 x USB 3.0 / Audio Front Ports</p>
<p>Side Air duct</p>
<p>2 External 5.25" Drive Bays</p>
<p>4 Internal 3.5" Drive Bays </p>
|
6624
|
2017-01-08T05:21:24.007
|
|case|
|
<p>I'm looking for a <em>compact</em> mATX case for a NAS system. One that I can stick in a corner somewhere and forget about (figuratively).</p>
<p>I have done some research into this, but all results I found that were less than 50 USD only had three or fewer drive bays. I found a few mATX cases with four 3.5" bays, but they were out of my budget range.</p>
<p><strong>Necessary Requirements:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Four bays for 3.5" HDDs</li>
<li>Front Panel USB 2.0</li>
<li>Less than $50 USD (lower is better, new not used)</li>
<li>Approx. 3 inches of clearance for the CPU fan (~76mm)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Optional, but would be nice:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Cube/LAN box style</li>
<li>Dust Filters</li>
<li>From Amazon.com</li>
</ul>
<p>Any suggestions?</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
|
Compact mATX case for NAS system with four 3.5" drives
|
<p>I would go with a desktop build <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/G3YgCy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like this</a>. </p>
<p>It is on a Z170a chipset, which will allow you to overclock <em>if you decide to upgrade to a K series skylake or kabylake CPU</em>. The cooler should accommodate a reasonable overclock. </p>
<p>With the z170a SLI plus, you can use 2 way SLI or 3 way crossfire if you have compatible GPUs. The GTX 1060 should easily tackle most 2016 games.</p>
<p>2 drives: a SSD for boot and for software that you need to access quickly (like games) and a 1TB HDD for storing files.</p>
<p><strong><em>Specs/Parts are as follows:</em></strong></p>
<p>-<strong>CPU</strong>: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz <strong>($118.98 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<p>-<strong>CPU Coole</strong>r: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO <strong>($34.99 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<p>-<strong>Motherboard</strong>: MSI Z170A SLI PLUS ($135.95 @ Amazon) </p>
<p>-<strong>Memory</strong>: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 <strong>($49.99 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<p>-<strong>Storage</strong>: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" SSD <strong>($89.99 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<p>-<strong>Storage</strong>: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" <strong>($49.99 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<p>-<strong>Video Card</strong>: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 2GB <strong>($116.99 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<p>-<strong>Power Supply</strong>: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply <strong>($37.99 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<p>-<strong>Operating System</strong>: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit <strong>($90.72 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<p>-<strong>Case</strong>: Thermaltake Versa H22 <strong>($43.46 @ Amazon)</strong> </p>
<h2>Total: $769.05 (for the PC build, $859.05 with additional laptop RAM)</h2>
<p>--</p>
<p>You <em>can</em> upgrade your laptop from 6GB to 16GB of RAM, but I would only do this if I needed the extra RAM. Having extra RAM isn't going to make a difference in performance you aren't said extra RAM.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I'm asking if it is a wise choice to upgrade a my laptop to 16 GB of RAM knowing that I have a processor with only 2 physical cores.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In response to that, core count doesn't necessarily mean you can't use more RAM. You should be able to utilize as much RAM as the manufacturer says is supported.<a href="http://ark.intel.com/products/72164/Intel-Core-i5-3230M-Processor-3M-Cache-up-to-3_20-GHz-rPGA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The i5 3230M supports up to 32GB of RAM</a>, but I believe this is limited to 16GB in your laptop (due to chipset limitations?). Furthermore, your laptop's i5 3230M is dual core and hyperthreaded. <a href="http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/hyper-threading/hyper-threading-technology.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Basically, it's like having four cores.</a></p>
<p>--</p>
<p>If you feel like you need more RAM for your laptop take a look at something like this:</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0145WDNF2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">- Timetec® (P/N 76TT13NUS2R8-8G) Dual Rank 1333MHz DDR3 (PC3-10600) Non-ECC Unbuffered CL9 204 Pin SODIMM 2Rx8 512x8 1.5V Windows PC Laptop Notebook RAM Memory Module Upgrade (16GB (2x8GB)) <strong>($80 @ Amazon)</strong></a></p>
<p>--</p>
<p>N.B.: I have ommitted shipping charges, since I'm not sure where you need the parts to be shipped (internationally, locally etc...) (also depends on where you order the parts)</p>
|
6627
|
2017-01-08T18:00:33.617
|
|memory|ssd|processor|
|
<p>I hope that I can get a solution for my issue.</p>
<p>I have two computers:</p>
<p>One is an <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFbt88As1pg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AsusN56VJ</a> laptop, a little bit old:</p>
<p>The configuration is:</p>
<ul>
<li>i5 323M (2 physical cores with 4 threads) 2.6 GHz.</li>
<li>6 GB of RAM at 1067 MHz (1*4GB and 1*2GB)</li>
<li>500 GB of HDD</li>
<li>NVidia Geforce 635m (VRAM: 2 GB)</li>
</ul>
<p>My second computer is a PackardBell desktop:</p>
<ul>
<li>E5700 (2 cores, 3 GHz)</li>
<li>4 GB of RAM</li>
<li>120 GB SSD</li>
<li>HD 6750 graphical card (2 GB).</li>
</ul>
<p>So what I want is to buy a new computer, but I hesitate between a laptop and a desktop because I have those two computers.</p>
<p>What should I do? Because I want a computer which can run 2016 games and do some programming stuff, I see that I can't upgrade my desktop on the contrary of my laptop where I can upgrade to 32 of RAM at 1600 MHz and a new SSD. </p>
<p>I'm asking if it is a wise choice to upgrade a my laptop to 16 GB of RAM knowing that I have a processor with only 2 physical cores.</p>
<p>If you were in my place, what would you do? I have between 800 and 1000 dollar.</p>
|
Should I upgrade my computer?
|
<p>I have a <a href="https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-q10-customizable-mechanical-keyboard" rel="nofollow noreferrer">keychron Q10</a>, shown here, and like all "Alice style" keyboards from keychron, it has a duplicate B key.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ta2M7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ta2M7.jpg" alt="Duplicate B keys" /></a></p>
|
6629
|
2017-01-09T12:34:30.467
|
|keyboards|ergonomics|
|
<p>Does there exist an ergonomic split keyboard, like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vioqQ.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vioqQ.jpg" alt="Split keyboard"></a></p>
<p>But where the keys don't stop at the 'official' typing boundary. Sometimes I want to type a B with my right hand, and these kinds of keyboards make it infuriating.</p>
<p>Note that Apple realised split keyboards should have duplicated keys - the <a href="http://www.mactrast.com/2012/02/the-ipads-split-keyboard-has-6-hidden-keys-to-improve-your-typing/" rel="noreferrer">iPad split keyboard has (invisible) duplicates</a>:</p>
<p>Are there any physical keyboards that do the same thing, or at <em>least</em> duplicate the B (it's exactly in the middle on many keyboards and Apple even put it on the right side of their split keyboard)?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSc0X.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSc0X.png" alt="iPad keyboard"></a></p>
|
Split keyboard with duplicated keys
|
<p>For overall "OUT OF THE BOX" compatibility you are going to be better off going with a PC. </p>
<p>Performance wise comparing the two you will get the following benefits of the base model Alienware laptop over the MacBook.</p>
<p>1) Faster Processor</p>
<p>2) Larger HDD</p>
<p>3) Much better video card (the MacBook only has Intel Iris integrated video)</p>
<p>4) $100 Less expensive with reward card rebate</p>
<p>All of these items are using the base model Alienware laptop that you provided a link for. With the extra money you could add some more power or featurs or move up the next model.</p>
|
6636
|
2017-01-10T21:07:52.230
|
|laptop|gaming|video-editing|
|
<p>I'm planning to buy a new laptop since my current PC(Lenovo U430) is kind of slow when it comes to gaming and video editing. My current budget is $1,000 to $1,500, after researching, I'm planning to buy one of these brands: Alienware 13 inch(latest model) or Macbook Pro 13 inch(with retina display) only.<strong>Question: Which brand or model should I be buying that is compatible and worth it for a little gaming, graphic design, video editing(no lagging while editing or checking the video preview in After Effects or Premiere Pro) with my current budget? Aliewanre or Macbook?</strong></p>
<p>Here's the link to Alienware 13 inch list of models: <a href="http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/alienware-13-laptop?~ck=mn" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/alienware-13-laptop?~ck=mn</a></p>
<p>Here's the link to Macbook Pro 13 inch list of models: <a href="http://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchpage.jsp?st=macbook+pro+retina+display+13&_dyncharset=UTF-8&id=pcat17071&type=page&sc=Global&cp=1&nrp=&sp=&qp=&list=n&af=true&iht=y&usc=All+Categories&ks=960&keys=keys" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchpage.jsp?st=macbook+pro+retina+display+13&_dyncharset=UTF-8&id=pcat17071&type=page&sc=Global&cp=1&nrp=&sp=&qp=&list=n&af=true&iht=y&usc=All+Categories&ks=960&keys=keys</a></p>
<p>Comment your answer with the link or the brand and specs of the model.</p>
<p>Thank you very much !</p>
|
Alienware or Macbook Pro? Which one is worth it?
|
<p>I suggest you to read these articles: for 2011-v3 successor
<a href="http://wccftech.com/intel-x299-chipset-skylake-x-kaby-lake-x/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://wccftech.com/intel-x299-chipset-skylake-x-kaby-lake-x/</a> and for 1151 successor
<a href="http://wccftech.com/intel-cannonlake-cpu-300-motherboards-2017/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://wccftech.com/intel-cannonlake-cpu-300-motherboards-2017/</a></p>
<p>They clearly explain that the x99 / 2011-v3 socket and x200 / 1151 won't last more than few months, since it's almost certain that intel won't support them with newer cpus (skylake-x and cannonlake/coffelake).</p>
<p>Since you repeated a lot the word FUTURE I have to say that you have chosen sockets/chipset that won't be upgraded anymore by Intel with newer CPU.</p>
<p>So one option is to buy something NOW, and I suggest to choose the 2011-v3 platform with the right motherboard because you are sure that can buy now a Core i7-5820K (3.3GHz, L3:15M, 6C, HT, 140W, rev.R2) and in the future update it to a, for example, Intel Xeon E5-2687W-v4 (3.0G,160W,L3:30M,12C,HT) with less money than today (also selling your first CPU).</p>
<p>The other option is to wait for the next first next platform between X299 or cannonlake/coffelake chipset 300 and you will be sure that for other 2 generations of processors you will be able to upgrade them. I would suggest cannonlake cpu that will be also 6/8 cores (plus HT) instead of the top cpu of 1151 that is only 4 cores (plus HT). Sadly my last phrase has no direct support from leaked slides (see: <a href="http://wccftech.com/intel-roadmap-kaby-lake-coffee-lake-cannonlake-leak/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://wccftech.com/intel-roadmap-kaby-lake-coffee-lake-cannonlake-leak/</a> and: <a href="http://www.fool.com/investing/2016/09/14/exclusive-the-secret-of-intel-corporations-coffee.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.fool.com/investing/2016/09/14/exclusive-the-secret-of-intel-corporations-coffee.aspx</a> ) so it could be taken as a speculation. </p>
<p>Take into account also that this year AMD will show ZEN CPU and in function of the real value/performance of the platform I think that INTEL will be forced, or not, to push to an higher rate of cores on mainstream cpu sector</p>
|
6672
|
2017-01-17T18:08:20.340
|
|processor|
|
<p>I am preparing to build a new tower, the first in a long time, and am aiming for it to be a "baseline" for upgrades for a long time.</p>
<p>It will be used with a dual boot Windows 7 / Debian, Windows for gaming and Debian for everyday tasks (multimedia) and programming (nothing CPU intensive yet).</p>
<p>The goal is to have it built for a relatively low price, performance be damned now if must be since I don't have a lot of PC games yet, but I value the future proofing above all.</p>
<p>I am hesitating between three processor, the difference in price is not <em>that</em> huge, but the sockets are different, and I'd like to know that when time's come, I ll not have to buy a new motherboard with the next processor too because I have choosen the wrong socket.<br>
I'd also would like to have the more bang for my buck, since I am on a tigh budget for my ambitions.</p>
<ul>
<li>i7-5820K, socket 2011-v3, 440€</li>
<li>i7-7700K, socket 1151, 410€</li>
<li>i7-4790K, socket 1150, 400€</li>
</ul>
<p>EDIT:</p>
<p>To clarify a few point, my main worry is to, in some year when the processor will start to get old, have to change the motherboard with it because of a change of socket, followed by changing something else because X is not compatible with the new motherboard, and things cascading in buying almost a new PC.<br>
I am also not in a hurry, so if the release date of a new socket type that will be supported longer is scheduled for soon (<1year), I am also comfortable waiting for it.</p>
|
Processor socket, 2011-v3, 1151 or 1150?
|
<p>I have found a list of ELinux compatible keyboards <a href="http://elinux.org/RPi_USB_Keyboards" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> there are quite a few with trackballs to choose from.</p>
<p>Specifically the LC-Power K1000BMW has been tested with Debian 6.0.04</p>
<p>I have also found that the <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Emprex-9039ARF-Wireless-Keyboard-Intergrated/dp/B00393P10E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Emprex 9039ARF III</a> has customer reviews that confirm its functionality in Ubuntu Squeeze as well as another version of linux that the customer did not specify</p>
<p>Lastly and probably your best option is the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004OBAJCA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">IOGear 2.4GHz</a> as I was able to find CONFIRMED customer interaction specifically for Ubuntu compatibility.</p>
|
6690
|
2017-01-20T09:54:44.860
|
|keyboards|ubuntu|
|
<p>Im looking for compact <strong>wireless</strong> keyboard <strong>with trackball</strong> that would work with 12 or 14 <strong>Ubuntu</strong>. Ive searched on Q&A forums and didnt get answer ecxept most of them wouldnt work at all.</p>
<p>For example i was looking for something like that <a href="http://www.trust.com/en/product/17911-adura-wireless-multimedia-keyboard" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.trust.com/en/product/17911-adura-wireless-multimedia-keyboard</a></p>
|
Ubuntu compatible wireless trackball keyboard
|
<p>You might take a look at the <a href="https://www.nzxt.com/products/source-530" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NZXT Source 530</a>.</p>
<p>It fits all of your requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Can mount 1 SSD (2.5") and 1 HDD (3.5"), however it does have space for additional drives (3x 5.25", 6x 2.5" or 3.5")</li>
<li>Full Tower ATX case (Fits ATX motherboards and is a Full Tower)</li>
<li>Fits ATX PSUs</li>
<li>Has standoff points and standoffs included in the box</li>
<li>Within your budget. It can be found on <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00FUC6S5O" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon for $85</a>, <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146114" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Newegg for $85</a> and on <a href="https://www.nzxt.com/products/source-530" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NZXT for $90</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>It also has a few nice features such as:</p>
<ul>
<li>Dust Filters</li>
<li>Mounts for water cooling</li>
<li>Modular drive cages</li>
<li>Space for several fans (7-9 fans max, dependent on fan diameter)</li>
</ul>
|
6693
|
2017-01-21T08:34:41.660
|
|motherboard|case|
|
<p>I'm building my first Gaming computer, and I need some help deciding which case to get for my motherboard of choice. The motherboard I have chosen is the MSI Z270 Series Gaming Motherboard (<a href="https://www.msi.com/asset/resize/image/global/product/product_9_20161213150334_584f9d46be2de.png62405b38c58fe0f07fcef2367d8a9ba1/1024.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link</a>). The problem I face, is that I don't know which case would fit this motherboard nicely. I don't want to buy a case that doesn't allow me to fit my motherboard. I do know that the motherboard is ATX, so that means I need an ATX case, right?</p>
<p>The case that I am looking for should contain the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ability to mount a SSD and HDD</li>
<li>Should be a full-on ATX Case (not MATX)</li>
<li>Mount a Corsair PSU</li>
<li>The case should have stand-offs already installed</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm looking to spend around $100-$120 on a case.</p>
<p>Any suggestions?</p>
|
PC Chassis for MSI Motherboard?
|
<p>It appears that this isn't possible. So I tested the device I bought below and it doesn't work with cd drives. I am not sure why.</p>
<p>This appears to work but only works on the laptop cd drives. Which means the power would be a problem on a desktop computer.</p>
<p>USB 2.0 to 7+6 13Pin Slimline SATA Laptop CD/DVD Rom Optical Drive Adapter Cable Black/White</p>
<p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00C574Q5G" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/13Pin-Slimline-Laptop-Optical-Adapter/dp/B00C574Q5G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485286747&sr=8-2&keywords=external+cd+drive+with+sata</a></p>
|
6711
|
2017-01-24T19:34:07.197
|
|hard-disk|
|
<p>So I use this USB to Sata + Power converter to hook up drives to my laptop like so.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEslim.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEslim.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>It works for hard drives but not cd drives.
I would like to be able to hot swap the same drive between a desktop and laptop.</p>
<p>Is there one for CD drives so it can be hot swapped between sata and usb?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b43W5m.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b43W5m.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
External CD Drive That Doubles For Sata Access
|
<p>Just to get a level of comparison:</p>
<p>The professional (workstation) videocards in the Nvidia family have usually the 1000 / 2000 / 3000 / 4000 / 5000 numbers, prefixed by the generation letter. They correspond to X40 / X50 / X60 / X70 / X80 of the consummer editions.
So, for example, M5000M is roughly equivalent of the 980M.</p>
<p>Following the same logic, the newer Nvidia GTX 1070 will have as equivalent Nvidia Quadro P4000M.</p>
<p>But from the 9xx line to the 10xx line the jump was fantastic. For example 1060 is a something between the previous 970 and 980, while taking less power.</p>
<p>So what you are comparing here (M1200) to GTX 1070M is like comparing 1040 to 1070. You say what? There's no GTX 1040? Yes, you're right, that's how low that video card is.</p>
<p>You simply cannot compare them. So, if what you need is video processing power, there's no question.</p>
|
6720
|
2017-01-25T15:13:32.413
|
|laptop|graphics-cards|
|
<p>My employer intends to purchase a laptop for me in the USA, then send it to me in South Africa. I've read that the GTX 10 series cards have desktop level performance even on laptops.</p>
<p>I've asked around, and Dell is really the only supplier that will support the laptop internationally.. i.e. I won't need to ship it all the way back to the USA if I need repairs.</p>
<p>I've looked at local suppliers that have MSI and ASUS laptops with GTX1080's too.. but they are very bulky and look like too much like gaming rigs (which they are). This new alienware range actually looks a little more conservative and they're slimmer than the other gaming rigs. Ultimately the looks don't matter though. It's just a small consideration.</p>
<p>Note: This isn't for gaming - it's for design work.. with a preference for fast render times in a laptop (I will be travelling a lot).</p>
<p>I've been looking at the Alienware 17 R4 laptop:</p>
<p>It's a 17inch UHD (3840 x 2160) IPS screen - so the color accuracy should be decent. It contains a GTX 1070 with 8GB GDDR5 Also it has: 7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-7820HK (Quad-Core, 8MB Cache, Overclocking up to 4.4GHz )</p>
<p>There are 2 more expensive Alienware 17 configurations that have GTX 1080s, but they have TN panels.. so I'm leaning toward this IPS one. I intend to max out the RAM and take 3 years of Premium support and accident cover.. so the total cost comes to about $3100</p>
<p>So with that budget in mind.. there's also the whole precision line from Dell.</p>
<p>The New Precision 5520</p>
<p>It's 15inch UltraSharp UHD IGZO (3840x2160) Touch Wide View LED-backlit with PremiumPanel Guarantee - so I guess this might be an even better screen.</p>
<p>If I select specs like the highest end processor: Intel Core Xeon E3-1505M v6 (Quad Core Xeon 3.00GHz, 4.00GHz Turbo, 8MB 45W, w/Intel HD Graphics 630 32GB Ram, add the same HDD's as the alienware etc..</p>
<p>The price comes to 3,014.90 (so basically the same as Alienware)</p>
<p>The Graphics card difference would be that this has a Nvidia Quadro M1200 w/4GB GDDR5</p>
<p>So which of these 2 laptops do you think would render and work better in blender?</p>
<p>I don't do big complex scenes.. it's mostly simple product packaging and bottles.. some glass.. sometimes a simple area to display items like a table with light streaming in from a side window.. wooden surface sometimes. But nothing crazy. I do need to do A LOT of renders though.. so we need something snappy.</p>
<p>Thank you!!</p>
|
Which Dell laptop is best for rendering - Alienware with a GTX 1070 or a Precision with Quadro?
|
<p>You already had the exact way to find which DIMMs to use, you just didn't know it.</p>
<p>Go to whichever site you prefer to use to buy PC components, and search for DDR3 PC3-12800 1600Mhz, make sure to specify SODIMM (laptops) or DIMM (Desktops)</p>
<p>If you would like a recommendation: I would suggest <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231481&ignorebbr=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G.SKILL F3-12800CL11S-4GBSQ</a></p>
<p>Reasons being: This is a standard SO-DIMM for laptops. 27 USD on newegg, lifetime warranty from the manufacturer (I have been using G.Skill for over 10 years, only had one bad DIMM in a matching set, followed their RMA steps and had my replacement very quickly)</p>
|
6725
|
2017-01-26T10:17:55.220
|
|laptop|memory|compatibility|
|
<p>I need to upgrade my RAM. There are two slots. One of them is empty and the other one contains a RAM with the following spec:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>4GB DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ubve.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ubve.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I am going to add another 4GB RAM to the empty slot. How can I make sure the other RAM I buy is compatible with this one and my motherboard? Here's my system info:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIjvA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIjvA.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8gke.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8gke.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhTrh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhTrh.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
Memories compatible with Samsung 4GB DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz
|
<p>Actually, you don't necessarily <em>need</em> to upgrade the CPU. <a href="http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2216733/pci-express-x16-card-work-pci-x16-slot.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A PCIe 3.0 card will work in a PCIe 2.0 slot.</a> However, you may experience slightly decreased performance. You mentioned that frame rates were irrelevant, so PCIe 2.0 shouldn't be an issue.</p>
<hr>
<p>If you do want to upgrade to a CPU that explicitly supports PCIe 3.0, one of the most inexpensive options is going to be something like a i5-3340. Which will be a modest upgrade from your i3 3225.</p>
<p>As for a GPU <a href="https://developer.nvidia.com/getting-know-new-hdr" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I believe you will need something that uses the Maxwell or Pascal architecture</a> for HDR (assuming you want to go with nVidia). </p>
<p>The GTX 1050 looks like a good option...</p>
<ul>
<li>Supports HDR</li>
<li>Has HDMI 2.0</li>
<li>Does not require an additional power adapter</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>In conclusion:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Go with the GTX 1050 and use it in a PCIe 2.0 slot. Can be found on <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01M4MIU94" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a> for <strong>$110</strong> or on <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500412&cm_re=gtx_1050-_-14-500-412-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Newegg</a> also for <strong>$110</strong>.</p></li>
<li><p>Or go with the GTX 1050 <em>with</em> an i5-3340 (if you would like to use PCIe 3.0, but it's not absolutely necessary). You can find the i5-3340 on <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00EUVMICS" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a> for <strong>$175.</strong></p></li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>As a bit of a side note... You mentioned a "no-frills" GPU. I'm not sure that's really going to be addressable since you will need a fairly modern Maxwell or Pascal GPU for HDR support.</p>
|
6747
|
2017-01-30T02:11:32.673
|
|graphics-cards|4k|
|
<p>I got a <a href="http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-uhd-tvs/40--class-ku6290-6-series-4k-uhd-tv--2016-model--un40ku6290fxza/#specs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung 6290</a> UHD (4k) HDR display that accepts only HDMI input.</p>
<p>I have a <a href="http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4388#sp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte GA-H77M-D3H rev. 1.1</a> motherboard with an Intel i3-3225 CPU. Specs say, "The PCIEX16 slot conforms to PCI Express 3.0 standard. Whether PCI Express 3.0 is supported depends on CPU and graphics card compatibility." Native motherboard graphics support only runs to 1920x1080 resolution.</p>
<p>I run Win7x64 and I don't do any gaming, so frame rates are irrelevant to me. (This workstation is for business and development. So it typical runs a database, dev environment, photo editors, and scores of browser instances.) </p>
<p>I want a no-frills graphics card that will support one HDMI 3840x2160 output and take advantage of HDR (which I imagine means 30- or 36-bit color?). Aside from those specs, quiet and stable operation, followed by price, are my primary considerations. What should I buy?</p>
|
Graphics card to support UHD (4k) HDR screen over HDMI
|
<p>AM1 is not the best for gaming due to being an older technology with less capable CPUs, FM2 is newer. Personally, I'd go with the FM2 system, it is a more powerful CPU, and has built in graphics capability. It also meets the minimum CPU speed and graphics requirements for the games you have listed. Though it will likely not be able to handle cutting edge gaming at max settings, without major upgrades. </p>
|
6752
|
2017-01-30T20:43:35.263
|
|motherboard|processor|memory|
|
<p>I'm building an extra PC, and for now I need purchase only a combo of motherboard + processor + memory.</p>
<p>(I know 4Gb RAM is low memory, I want later add more 4Gb RAM)</p>
<p>So, I did a research and I got the Configuration 01:<br>
<strong>Processor</strong>: A4-7300 FM2<br>
<strong>Motherboard</strong>: AMD FM2A58M-VG3+<br>
<strong>Memory</strong>: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz<br>
<strong>Total</strong>: $ 145,00 USD </p>
<p>The Configuration 2 is:<br>
<strong>Processor</strong>: Athlon 5150 AM1<br>
<strong>Motherboard</strong>: ASRockAM1B-MH<br>
<strong>Memory</strong>: 4GB DDR3 1600MHz<br>
<strong>Total</strong>: $ 135,00 USD </p>
<p>and finally, the Configuration 3:<br>
<strong>Processor</strong>: Pentium Dual Core G4400 LGA1151<br>
<strong>Motherboard</strong>: ASRockH110M-HG4<br>
<strong>Memory</strong>: 4GB DDR4 2400MHZ<br>
<strong>Total</strong>: $ 215,00 USD </p>
<p><strong>EDIT</strong>: Too broad?<br>
Really, really simple question then:
<strong>What of that 3 configurations have the best cost-benefit</strong> (considering what I'll be using them for) <strong>and why?</strong></p>
<p><strong>Operational System:</strong><br>
<em>Windows 10 AU</em></p>
<p><strong>Games</strong> (can be played at minimum level of graphics):<br>
<em>Hearthstone, League Of Legends, Stacraft 2</em></p>
<p><strong>Applications:</strong><br>
<em>Visual Studio 2017, Sql Server 2016, Bluestacks, LibreOffice</em></p>
<p><strong>Rarely used:</strong><br>
<em>Some VM like VirtualBox or VMWare</em></p>
|
Low Budget with AM1 vs FM2 vs LGA1151
|
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00H4YGR48" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Seagate Backup Plus Slim 1TB Portable External Hard Drive for Mac USB 3.0</a> Seems to meet your requirements. Its slim, coming in at 9.6mm tall.</p>
<p>I tried finding an SSD solution for you, but nothing would fit in that form factor. If your willing to settle on 512GB, I would recommend the <a href="http://www.angelbird.com/en/prod/ssd2go-pkt-1031/#overview" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AngleBird SSD2go</a>, it is smaller... and substantially faster than any HDD. </p>
<p>The Seagate drive is a USB 3.0, and the Anglefire is USB 3.1 Gen2 10Gbit/s.<br>
These are my suggestions, I hope they help.</p>
|
6755
|
2017-01-31T12:07:28.370
|
|hard-disk|
|
<p>I have found Seagate Backup Plus Ultra Slim 1TB but there are enough users reported about the bad experience. After some weeks it doesn't work anymore.</p>
<p>Max 10 mm because I want it to use this external HDD with my notebook and transport it together in the same bag.</p>
<p>It it for a MacBook Pro 13 from 2015. I prefer USB 3.0, but could accept Thunderbolt 2.</p>
|
External HDD. Very slim. Max 10 mm. 1-2 TB
|
<p>The two bottlenecks of file copying are transfering from the external hard drive, and writing to the internal drive. Everything else in a modern computer is much, much faster than the drives.</p>
<p>My recommendation is that you go to a local store and buy the cheapest computer you can find that has one or more USB 3 ports (USB 2 is roughly the same speed as a hard drive; going with USB 3 will eliminate the connection as a potential bottleneck).</p>
<p>When it comes to cheap computers, pre-built almost invariably costs less than building it yourself, unless you've got parts from another computer that you can re-use.</p>
|
6773
|
2017-02-02T16:50:33.317
|
|performance|
|
<p>We need a PC in our office to plug external hard disks and copy content in to local hard disk. 5 to 10 people will do it daily basis. This PC will not use for anything else. I am willing to configure PC cheapest as possible. I don't exactly know which is more important for coping files CPU or RAM beside USB 3 Hub + Internal HDD of course. But they are pretty standard.</p>
<p>-Cheapest CPU i can find can do the job?</p>
<p>-4GB memory will be enough?</p>
<p>-To cut on my budget which one i should sacrifice CPU or RAM.</p>
<p>Here a sample configuration i made:</p>
<ul>
<li>Case: Redrock C702BB Peak 300W</li>
<li>Mainboard: MSI A68HM-E33 V2 (2133 Mhz)</li>
<li>CPU: AMD A6 6400K X2 (3.0 GHz, 1MB)</li>
<li>RAM: 4 GB HI-LEVEL 1600 DDR3</li>
<li>HDD: 1TB WD Blue 3,5" (64MB, 7200 RPM) <i>(I choose this becouse i thought 64MB would benefit for copy performance)</i></li>
</ul>
|
PC Configration for File Copying
|
<p>I'd recommend the <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124009&ignorebbr=1&cm_re=sata_controller_card-_-16-124-009-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SYBA SD-VIA-1A2S</a> PCI card, $15 from Newegg.</p>
<p>It provides two SATA I ports, is universal PCI, and supports Linux. It's got LBA-48 support, so it will work with drives larger than 137 GB, and should work with drives larger than 2 TB. If you need it, it supports booting from attached hard drives (but not attached optical drives).</p>
<p>I don't have any experience with this card, but it's got good reviews on Newegg, including some from people using it to add SATA ports to older computers.</p>
|
6786
|
2017-02-06T00:06:48.463
|
|linux|pc|hard-disk|sata|
|
<p>I'm thinking about getting a couple inexpensive PCI cards that will let me plug in any SATA drive into some 10-15 year old PCs.</p>
<p>One is an old Compaq Presario 5300 US with a 1.1 GHz Intel Celeron processor and I think 512 MB RAM.</p>
<p>I don't know what the other is but it's probably similar in specs. (<strong>EDIT:</strong> It has an 800 MHz AMD Duron processor, 512 MB RAM, and the initial boot screen shows American Megatrends VIA K7 GA7VMM01.)</p>
<p>Both have had IDE hard drives plugged into them their whole lives and the motherboards have no support for SATA drives.</p>
<p>I can run a basic Debian Jessie 32-bit install on them among other things.</p>
<p>I was thinking about setting one up as a file server or as a backup server that does nothing more than pull from other computers and hold the data on a local 2 TB or 4 TB hard drive, but the drives I have that large are all SATA drives.</p>
<p>I would appreciate recommendations on an inexpensive PCI card that will enable me to use a SATA drive, including addressing the full 2/4TB.</p>
|
PCI SATA cards for old tower PCs
|
<p>I found <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01LZVJ9SZ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This Runsy iPhone 7 case</a> It looks like it uses a lightning passthough, so you won't need to carry a pesky micro usb cable around. The only limitation is that it does not work with headphones with lightning connectors. </p>
<p>Overall, it has a 4 out of 5 star review. Let me know if this fits the bill. </p>
|
6828
|
2017-02-12T20:17:09.520
|
|smartphones|power-bank|
|
<p>I used to have a Mophie Pack for my iPhone 5. It was a charging case that plugged into Apple's Lightning cables. But I just got an iPhone 7, and it seems that all the charging cases available for it, both by Mophie and by other companies, plug into micro-USB cables, i.e. the kind of cables used to charge Android devices.</p>
<p>So my question is, are there any iPhone 7 charging cases that plug into Lightning cables? That would be much more convenient for me.</p>
|
An iPhone 7 charging case which plugs into Lightning cables
|
<p>To answer your question: No, there are no headphones(over the ear, on the ear, earbuds) in existence that cannot be: Blown out, have their speaker components damaged over time from being played at maximum output.</p>
<p>The same goes for high end speaker systems. Running a speaker system at full blast puts stress on all components, which will lead to parts needing to be replaced. </p>
|
6843
|
2017-02-14T00:38:50.283
|
|headphones|
|
<p>So I have gone through a lot of cheapo headphones because the headphones blow out.
Are there headphones that can't be blown out?</p>
<p>I would like them to fit in a pocket and not be like the big ones that go on your head. I'm using the earbuds with an android phone.</p>
<p>EDIT: So I determined the 3.5mm was wearing out on the cheap headphones I was buying.</p>
|
Headphones you can't blow out
|
<p>Considering your budget of $350, some sort of a non-reference Nvidia GTX 1060 is going to be a pretty good option.</p>
<p>I personally have a GTX 1060 that I occasionally game on. However, I primarily use it for CUDA. I am quite satisfied with its performance for how much I paid.</p>
<hr>
<p><strong>The GTX 1060 meets your requirements:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><p>Under budget of $350</p></li>
<li><p>Can play modern games with good quality</p></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>In Addition:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><p>Your PSU meets the recommended PSU wattage. However, you will need a molex to 8 pin PCIe power or a 6 pin PCIe to 8 pin PCIe adapter.</p></li>
<li><p>It supports CUDA, if ever you need to use GPU assisted rendering.</p></li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>In conclusion:</p>
<p>I would recommend a GTX 1060, such as this Twin Frozr VI from MSI, which you can get for <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01IEKYD5U" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$260 on Amazon</a> or for <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127963" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$275 on Newegg</a>.</p>
|
6853
|
2017-02-15T14:56:15.657
|
|graphics-cards|pc|
|
<p>Setup:</p>
<ul>
<li>INTEL Core i5-3450 3.10GHz 1155 </li>
<li>ASROCK B75 Pro3 </li>
<li>(<strong>2 x 8GB</strong>) KINGSTON 16384MB HyperX Blu DDR3 1600Mhz CL10 KIT KHX16C10B1K2/16X</li>
<li>Dell E2414HM LED Monitor, 24"</li>
<li>THERMALTAKE TR2 RX W0146RE 450W</li>
</ul>
<p>I have 350$ budget, but this is only an upper limit. </p>
<p>I was thinking about Nvidia 1060, 6GB.</p>
<p>I'll use it for casual gaming, would like to run the new games on high res for 1-2 years.</p>
|
Recommend graphics card for setup
|
<p>To directly answer your question of why they are different sizes, they are different models, and both are within the micro-atx specification.</p>
|
6862
|
2017-02-15T20:09:18.553
|
|motherboard|case|processor|
|
<p>I just bought a <a href="https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy-m" rel="nofollow noreferrer">new case</a> that is made for mini or micro atx motherboards. The Bitfenix Prodigy M.</p>
<p>At first, I got an <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B017NIDX1E" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI B150M Pro-VD</a> Micro ATX motherboard, and it wasn't ideal because I got a KabyLake processor, and this motherboard requires a bios update for it to use KabyLake. Instead of finding an old cpu, and messing around with all of that, I decided to get a motherboard that was made for KabyLake.</p>
<p>I ordered an <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01N6O79PB" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI B250M Pro-VDH</a> Micro ATX motherboard. </p>
<p>Even though these are both Micro ATX motherboards, they are completely different sizes. The second one doesn't fix in the case, as it is much larger. The screw holes don't line up. I thought all Micro ATX motherboards were the same size....if not, what is the difference, and how can I tell?</p>
|
Why are these Micro-ATX motherboards different sizes
|
<p>In a million years, I would have never thought that this existed. But.. <a href="http://www.cooldrives.com/index.php/4posaiisw3ba.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The Sata Switch is a thing.</a> This model, can hold 4 different SATA3 drives.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBCzK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBCzK.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> </p>
<p>I read the product description and information, and it seems like it will do everything you are looking to do, for the cool price of 79.00. </p>
<p>Literally cuts the power from the unused drives, I'm assuming you have to power off/switch HDD/Power on in order to get this to work correctly, but its a pretty cool little device. </p>
<p>Only one sata cable goes to your motherboard. </p>
|
6867
|
2017-02-16T12:30:47.860
|
|hard-disk|sata|
|
<p>Does there exist a cable where I can plug two hard drives into the same motherboard's sata slot and with the flip of a switch (between power-offs) switch between these two hard drives (without having to physically unplug anything)?</p>
<p>I'm not interested in any other solution but the existence of what I'm describing (no USB, eSATA, bios, or bootloader answers please).</p>
|
Internal Hard Drive Switcher
|
<p>Check <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-5PCS-Funduino-Nano-3-0-controller-compatible-with-0rduino-nano/32382480158.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.46.iu4CRw&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050_10111_10120normal#cfs,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&btsid=d9ada347-2091-4bfb-ab95-4ac4b591ade3&algo_expid=cac6fcc7-efe9-4395-894b-8eca901826d2-8&algo_pvid=cac6fcc7-efe9-4395-894b-8eca901826d2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this board "atmega328"</a> with serial port around $2 / <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-lot-Pro-Mini-Module-Atmega328-5V-16M-with-Arduino-Compatible-With-Nano/32672852945.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.83.4OPxoS&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&btsid=edf0d175-d010-42aa-bb66-1c9197986684&algo_expid=0ec93acb-32bf-4c23-92e8-2e5c9019aa9e-12&algo_pvid=0ec93acb-32bf-4c23-92e8-2e5c9019aa9e" rel="nofollow noreferrer">without serial port $1.5</a> on aliexpress
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPdeK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPdeK.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>A wireless shield will cost you around <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Upgraded-version-ESP-01-ESP8266-serial-WIFI-wireless-module-wireless-transceiver-1pcs/32648319845.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.214.JaQgzv&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&btsid=0752f6ea-bbc8-4c75-a83a-295e9bdd9ef5&algo_expid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227-26&algo_pvid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227" rel="nofollow noreferrer">1.5$ also on aliexpress</a>
Or this little guy ESP8266 the <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-ESP-12F-ESP-12E-upgrade-ESP8266-Remote-Serial-Port-WIFI-Wireless-Module/32714088769.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.20.JaQgzv&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050_10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&btsid=0752f6ea-bbc8-4c75-a83a-295e9bdd9ef5&algo_expid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227-2&algo_pvid=55fc7ad5-1144-448f-8053-967de3a56227" rel="nofollow noreferrer">newer one for $1.70</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QZkCQSHnko" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here is a project about ESP8266</a> </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVyAW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVyAW.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
RFID reader around $1.70, 6 DATA PINS and 2 for VCC, GND <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RC522-Card-Read-Antenna-RFID-Reader-IC-Card-Proximity-Module/2038558596.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.201.0x1iUw&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10050,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&btsid=03e593a5-bbc7-4305-b497-82eb521271aa&algo_expid=3e218d9c-10df-43b3-9a55-416644dfeb45-22&algo_pvid=3e218d9c-10df-43b3-9a55-416644dfeb45" rel="nofollow noreferrer">from here</a></p>
|
6872
|
2017-02-17T09:14:00.330
|
|processor|wifi|ethernet|uart|
|
<p>An old <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/questions/15171522/how-can-a-web-page-read-from-the-users-serial-port-in-the-year-2017">software question of mine</a> looks like it would benefit from some hardware.</p>
<p>Basically, I have a web page and want it to communicate via HTTP to a small controller, which will read a string from the serial port and return it to the browser.</p>
<p>Don’t worry about the software, I can handle that. I am wondering which hardware to use, and would like to keep the price down.</p>
<p>The requirements are simple enough. The device needs to be able to read from serial port, and it needs to be able to receive HTTP requests - I don’t care how. I don’t really need an operating system, certainly not a full blown one, but I do need to be able to run a web server, to handle the HTTP request. </p>
<p>I was thinking Raspberry PI, but am one to other solutions if they are cheaper and if they are as simple to code. I can buy in quantities of a dozen up to maybe 100, if it offers a decent discount. </p>
<p>[Update] I also need a dozen or two GPIO pins</p>
<p>Possibilities:</p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3, plus RS232 hat</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zer0, plus RS232 hat and Wifi or Ethernet (will also need a USB hub)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.netduino.com/hardware/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Netduino</a>, plus RS232 shield </li>
</ul>
<p>Long term availability of the device might play a role. E.g maybe not use Pi2, in case it gets phased out. Widely available support , via forums, would be good, although the project is so simple that I don’t envisage needing any help. </p>
<p>Which of these., or an alternative, can do what I want, with an emphasis on cost, but also balancing other terms? Hmmm, I probably want to put it into a case, preferably IP 67 compliant.</p>
<hr>
<p>[Update] I am also considering:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.orangepi.org/orangepipc/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Orange Pi</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.banana-pi.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Banana Pi</a></li>
<li><a href="https://getchip.com/pages/chip" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Chip</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Although I am not sure how compatible they might be with Raspberry Pi peripherals </p>
|
Small, cheap processor with serial port and internet access
|
<p>I can just say about my device and can fully remommend it to your needs:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.rockbox.org/wiki/SansaFuze" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="SanDisk Sansa Fuze V2 with rockbox firmware">SanDisk Sansa Fuze V2 with rockbox firmware</a> -- no touch screen, so no "unlocking"-problem at all, small, with rockbox about 20hrs battery life continuos play. The Wiki Page on rockbox.org seems to have quite outdated information, but in the last year or two there was new active development on CPU frequency scaling and power saving codes. With rockbox, battery life and audio quality is better than with original firmware, and can play many audio formats, also flac.</p>
<p>In another answer there is already a picture of the Fuze, so I don't need to add one here.</p>
|
6894
|
2017-02-20T21:39:42.890
|
|audio|microsd|
|
<p>I want to buy an audio player that satisfies these conditions:</p>
<ol>
<li>MicroSD slot which can read 64GB card or has device memory of at least this size</li>
<li>Hardware buttons which I can use without unlocking the display</li>
<li>No lags when navigating between songs</li>
<li>At least average audio quality</li>
<li>FLAC support</li>
<li>Price limit: 500$</li>
</ol>
<p>Can you recommend me any device which meets these conditions?</p>
<p>EDIT: I don't want to hack anything - replacing firmware etc.</p>
<p>EDIT 2: Price limit raised. I've tried these two devices so far</p>
<ul>
<li>FiiO X1 2nd gen</li>
<li>Astell & Kern JR Sleek Silver 64GB</li>
</ul>
<p>Both had the same problem: when I transferred about 3000 songs to the player (to a card in case of FiiO) and played them, it had huge lags between songs (after pushing the next button). </p>
|
Portable audio player
|
<p>hmm..</p>
<p>Long range Passive RFID will cost you around $45 so forget about it..</p>
<p>Cameras to follow employee! science fiction, we are not ready for it yet..</p>
<p>GPS will not work perfectly inside buildings..</p>
<p><strong>But</strong> there is a small idea for you and more simple!</p>
<p>I worked on AP devices from company called ubiquiti, These AP have the ability to work as a mesh network, there is an option to make a a Clint move around while the network choose the better WiFi AP for him and connect it directly..</p>
<p>I used to follow my friends inside this network by calculating the distance between them and each AP. So acttully you will know their locations from their Mobiles like how GPS work..</p>
<p>Throw 3 AP inside a company, it will work as WIFI and tracker at the same time, with a small script you can make this thing work..
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQNEn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQNEn.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>There is a company working on that idea anyway <a href="http://www.beacon-line.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQiA88TFBRDYrOPKuvfY2pIBEiQA97Z8MXcNqI2RkiCbSeZNv-Oe4jNSDghSYWNwdHUxrUpOsI4aAr0k8P8HAQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">check this link</a></p>
|
6920
|
2017-02-23T22:47:47.743
|
|wearable-technology|
|
<p>Consider a chemical factory. Certain rooms may never be empty (control room, security, etc), some have a limit on how many people may be there at any give time, and some contain hazardous materials and no one may stay in there longer than a certain time. Beyond that, in case of evacuation it is necessary to know where everyone is.</p>
<p>I am thinking of wearable badges, probably with WIFi (*) and readers at every door, to scan those entering & exiting. </p>
<p>I could make something cheap and small with a $5 Raspberry Pi Zero and a $2 USB WiFI dongle.. or, maybe BlueTooth, but what about a battery?</p>
<p>Of course, passive RFID wouldn’t require a battery, but could I be certain of reading everyone who passes through a doorway (and what about a very wide door, such as might be found in a factory)?</p>
<p>Really, all that I need is a way to identify people as they pass through doorways flanks by readers. Computing power is not required, but since the Raspberry Pi Zero is so dirt cheap, I might be able to find some other uses (attach a mic & speaker? Any other ideas?).</p>
<p>If I do need a battery, then given an 8 hour working day, plus breaks, plus a margin, then I need 10 or 12 hours battery life.</p>
<p>Does anyone know of an of the shelf solution? Failing that, some thing easy to put together from off the shelf parts?</p>
|
Tracking employee location
|
<p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-5-inch-HDMI-LCD-TFT-Touchscreen-Display-1920-1080-for-Raspberry-pi-2-and-Pi/32774253132.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.174.WKwyJA&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10000073_10065_10068_10000074_10000132_10000033_10000030_119_10000167_10000026_10000175_10000126_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10000120_10099_10000020_10000156_10000158_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10096_10000111_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000147_10000091_10000144_10084_10000150_10000101_10083_10000100_10119_10080_10000153_10000104_10082_10000045_10081_10110_10000108_10111_10000191_10112_10113_10000197_10114_10000089_10000086_10037_10000179_10000083_10000042_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10077_10000039_10073_10000140_10070_10000036_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000187-10120,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&btsid=250d8bbf-ad0d-48a4-a414-e0eea2c5f33a&algo_expid=f1704ffa-5f4d-4ba1-992a-47c6d79325dc-20&algo_pvid=f1704ffa-5f4d-4ba1-992a-47c6d79325dc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Check this one for $24</a> HDMI Port, don't use Touch Pins, just connect it to power and HDMI port.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v14u.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v14u.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>PAL/NTFS around $20 <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0045IIZKU" rel="nofollow noreferrer">check this one</a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIsLG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIsLG.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Or <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-LCD-4-3-Color-Monitor-IPS-HD-Screen-Display-VGA-BNC-AV-HDMI-Input-for-PC-CCTV-/262852424741?hash=item3d3339b425:g:y8UAAOSwCGVX2KHA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a> 48$ with VGA-HDMI-PAL/NTFS Port
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5dpkT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5dpkT.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
6926
|
2017-02-24T22:16:29.207
|
|hdmi|mini-pc|vga|
|
<p>I would like to build an extremely small, portable computer and need a screen 3.5 inches across or less that connects by either VGA, HDMI, or composite. I would also like it to be under 40 dollars, but I would take slightly more expensive. I am going to be connecting this to a Chip computer. I do not care too much about how good the display quality is. I just need to be able to see things on it and it to be functional. I have been looking everywhere for this, but the only ones I can find are for raspberry pie and do not have the right connection type.</p>
|
I need a extremely small display for a chip computer
|
<p>I am the OP: my advice to anyone with the same issue would be just get an old motherboard and do it.</p>
<p>I have a few hard drives, laptop and desktop IDE, which I would like to Secure Erase. I'm aware that other methods exist for removing the data, but this is the safest and most efficient, and it's the one I want to use.</p>
<p>I found someone else with the same problem <a href="https://lists.fedoraproject.org/pipermail/users/2010-August/381006.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>, and a reply said</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It depends on the chips in the adapters (see hdparm docs). Mine don't
support it, and the only one of them that I can warn you about is the
Seagate desktop expansion drive, the others have no branding.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In <a href="https://linux.die.net/man/8/hdparm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">man hdparm</a> it says</p>
<blockquote>
<p>hdparm provides a command line interface to various kernel interfaces supported by the Linux SATA/PATA/SAS "libata" subsystem and the older IDE driver subsystem. Many newer (2008 and later) USB drive enclosures now also support "SAT" (SCSI-ATA Command Translation) and therefore may also work with hdparm.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, I bought one which is support to support <em>SAT</em>, and reflected on the word 'may'.</p>
<p>I checked out <a href="https://www.smartmontools.org/wiki/Supported_USB-Devices" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.smartmontools.org/wiki/Supported_USB-Devices</a>. This is a list of devices which support SCSI-ATA Command Translation. I got a Gembird AUSI01.</p>
<p>It... didn't work. Just said 'erase prepare: invalid argument.'</p>
<p>I checked the adapter via USBdeview. It's genunine: correct chipset and device ID. It was able to work with smartmontools commands that I tried. It just wouldn't do Secure Erase, despite reporting that the drive <em>could</em> do Secure Erase.</p>
<p>So, I give up. Unless you have an opportunity to test this before you buy it, don't. Just grab an old computer... these days people will give them away for free.</p>
|
6970
|
2017-03-03T10:37:05.863
|
|data-storage|
|
<p><strong>Update:</strong> See my answer. <strong>TL;DR, just get an old computer if this is what you want to do</strong>. </p>
<p>However, <strong>if anyone does have a USB-IDE adapter which they confirmed to work with ATA Secure Erase,</strong> whether laptop or desktop <strong>I'd love to hear about it and please post below</strong>. What would also be helpful is a <strong>PATA-SATA adapter that supports ASE functions</strong>.</p>
<p>Ha, I found this one: <a href="http://www.datadev.com/hard-drive-eraser-data-security-secure-erase-overwrite-software-hammer.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.datadev.com/hard-drive-eraser-data-security-secure-erase-overwrite-software-hammer.html</a></p>
<p>At four grand, a little on the pricey side :).</p>
|
What USB to IDE adapter that can send the ATA Secure Erase command?
|
<p>For home networking, TP-Link and Netgear are the brands I've found most affordable and relilable; TP-Link tends to be a little cheaper and Netgear a little more reliable, but there's little difference between them.</p>
<p>On my home network, I've got a <strong><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000N99BBC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TP-Link TL-SG1005D</a></strong>. This is a Gigabit, 5-port, unmanaged switch - plug the uplink port into your Time Capsule, and the other ports will Just Work<sup>TM</sup>. You don't need to do any configuration at all.</p>
<p>Amazon lists the regular price as $21.97, though it's currently on sale at $16.99.</p>
<p>There's also an 8-port version of the same thing available for $3 more, in case you want to expand - honestly, for $3 extra I'd recommend getting the 8-port version even if you don't <em>currently</em> need more than 5 ports.</p>
|
6988
|
2017-03-05T15:01:06.693
|
|networking|switch|
|
<p>I use an Apple TimeCapsule (2011) as my home LAN router. </p>
<p>I've run out of free Ethernet ports on the TimeCapsule, so I need to extend the network; probably using a Gigabit switch.</p>
<p>From the TimeCapsule, I'm going to run a 10 metre CAT6 Ethernet cable, to a switch, and then from that connect to my NAS and Philips Hue hub. The NAS is my main media server, so therefore network speed is a consideration.</p>
<p>I have never purchased a Gigabit switch before, so I'm pretty oblivious where to begin searching in the consumer jungle.</p>
<p><strong>Questions:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Are Gigabit switches generally commoditized products, or are they differentiated in meaningful ways?</li>
<li>If so, what are the considerations that generally should be taken into account? Speed, security, ease and access to configuration, choice of brand and services/support?</li>
</ul>
<p>My impression is that switches for home use are relatively commoditized and fail-safe products, and cost competitive alternatives can be easily found. Am I wrong in this? Could the switch, for instance, impair the functionality of my NAS in some way?</p>
<p><strong>Requirements:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>I'm looking for a fairly cheap Gigabit Switch, typically with 3-4 ports. Perhaps around the $30-50 USD mark or less if possible.</li>
<li>It should have all functionality that should be expected of a consumer-grade personal LAN Gigabit switch.</li>
</ul>
|
Gigabit Switch for Home LAN
|
<p>For quite some time it seemed as if the best bets would be:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Use USB instead of Bluetooth. There are some Si470x tuner dongles out there for which open-source drivers exist. I have managed to port a driver to Android and get raw TMC data from the device via an Android app.</p></li>
<li><p>Build your own hardware: The Si470x chip is also widely used in the single-board computer community with breakout boards available. These, however, have an I²C interface, so you would need a Bluetooth-I²C bridge, most of which expose a Bluetooth serial interface. Challenge: the Bluetooth-I²C bridges I’ve seen so far don’t seem to come as breakout boards. Solution: get a Bluetooth-UART bridge and a UART-I²C bridge, both of which are widely available as breakout boards. Once you’ve pieced this together, again, you will need to write a driver, again based on the existing Linux driver. The protocol is not hard to understand and well documented—SparkFun has links to the relevant documentation—so this should be doable for a somewhat experienced programmer.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Then, however, I came across something else: some folks out there had made some <a href="https://wiki.matthiasbock.net/index.php/GNS_TMC_Protocol_(partly)_disclosed" rel="nofollow noreferrer">progress</a> in decoding the proprietary GNS protocol, which the TMC dongles bult by GNS (one of the major players on the market) speak. The protocol is the same, regardless of the interface (USB, UART or Bluetooth), and by trying all possible opcides, I found another two commands. I’ve since developed a driver and am successfully using the device (mostly limited by the antenna setup). Both the Bluetooth and UART flavor have worked for me (I didn’t have a USB device to test with).</p>
<p>Another major player on the market is Royaltek. Their devices seem to be mostly combined GPS/TMC dongles, which communicate both GPS and TMC status via the NMEA protocol. There’s some progress on decoding that as well.</p>
|
6997
|
2017-03-06T10:40:17.607
|
|linux|bluetooth|
|
<p>I'm looking for a Bluetooth-based Traffic Message Channel (RDS-TMC) receiver which communicates over a known protocol, allowing me to query it via a program I'm going to develop myself. </p>
<p>There are some Bluetooth TMC devices out there, but I suspect some of them might speak the same proprietary protocol as their USB counterparts.</p>
<p>Has anyone come across anything like that?</p>
|
FOSS-friendly Bluetooth TMC device
|
<p>Qnap will run Plex <em>pretty perfectly</em> -- takes care of the format concerns. The machine itself can transcode on the fly or as a backround task too. Plus DNLA support.</p>
<p>I also am pretty sure Kodi is available through qnapclub.eu Also Sickcbeard and some other fun stuff. </p>
<p>Surveillance station works like a charm but the new QVRpro is pretty sick. You can upload maps and the camera support is easy - as is assigning storage space. What can I say -- I'm a fan with a love/hate relationship with Qnap. </p>
<p>I hate their "tech support". They just yell at you. lol</p>
|
7021
|
2017-03-11T19:17:56.000
|
|nas|
|
<p>I am looking for a Nas for home use.</p>
<p><strong>my needs :</strong> </p>
<ul>
<li>data Storage (Photos, Videos, Etc.)</li>
<li>Multimedia server (streaming, Music)</li>
<li>Surveillance station (communication with cameras)</li>
</ul>
<p>I've been searching for a couple of weeks and now i am hesitating between two brands : Synology and QNap and precisely two NAS : the <a href="https://www.synology.com/en-global/products/DS216+II" rel="noreferrer">Synology DS216+II</a> and the <a href="https://www.qnap.com/en/product/model.php?II=195" rel="noreferrer">QNap TS251+</a> </p>
<p>The QNap Hardware looks more interesting : 2GB RAM upgradable to 8GB, Quad Core CPU, the Synology 1GB RAM not upgradable and dual core CPU.
Both NAS have almost the same price.</p>
<p>It will be my first Nas so i don't have any experience with none of the two brands. </p>
<p>Which product meets my needs and has better reliability?</p>
|
Which is a better NAS : Synology DS216+II or QNap TS251+
|
<p>It's hard to say without knowing what TV it is. Since it's an RCA socket, there's a good chance that it is simply coaxial <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S/PDIF" rel="nofollow noreferrer">S/PDIF</a>, rather than optical S/PDIF (TOSLINK). If this is the case, you will need a coaxial to optical S/PDIF converter such as <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-Digital-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B001U7GW68" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>. I would ignore the 3-pin connector, especially if the user guide doesn't say what it's for.</p>
|
7030
|
2017-03-12T22:02:41.543
|
|television|audio-adapters|
|
<p>I know I have seen it before, on older Tv's, was wondering what to look for to convert it to optical.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jrk8I.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jrk8I.jpg" alt="mystery output"></a></p>
|
What kind of output is this?
|
<p>It's points out the type of the RAM :</p>
<pre><code>The "R" is for Registered which is usually used in servers.
The "U" stands for unbuffered non ECC.
The "E" stands for unbuffered ECC (not registred)
The "S" for SO-DIMM, a format of DIMM's used for laptops :)
"L" is for Low Voltage
</code></pre>
<p>Those are the ones I know.</p>
|
7049
|
2017-03-15T17:54:44.983
|
|memory|
|
<p>I am trying to pick ram for my laptop. I can see these types of ram on the site.</p>
<pre><code>Ddr4 2133 pc4 17000
Ddr4 2133 pc4 17000s
Ddr4 2133 pc4 17000u
Ddr4 2133 pc4 17066r
Ddr4 2133 pc3 17066
</code></pre>
<p>What does the latter at the end or lack of it mean? Which one should I choose? Also, about the 3 or 4 after pc. What is it supposed to mean? Is bigger number better?</p>
|
What does the latter in the ram description mean?
|
<p>I'm posting the results of my own investigation here since none of the previous answers quite did the trick (either because of weight or price).</p>
<p>The laptop that comes closest to the solution for me is <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6R454D0638&cm_re=asus_zenbook-_-9SIA6R454D0638-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Asus Zenbook</a>, which weights only 1.45 kg and has a 2.5 GHz Intel Core i7-6500U Dual-Core with 8GB RAM.</p>
<p>Granted it's not the most powerful laptop listed here, but it has still good specs and the and low voltage processor that should increases my battery life.</p>
|
7053
|
2017-03-16T04:11:58.843
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I'm looking for a laptop with an SSD that is pretty much focused on the essentials, which means I don't care if it comes with a good webcam, or if it has fingertip reader or touchscreen or any of that.</p>
<p>What I would like it to have is</p>
<pre><code>SSD instead of HD
a decent amount of ram (at least 6GB)
weight less than 2 kg (4.4 lb)
at least a core i5 in terms of processing
</code></pre>
<p>I'm asking this here because, although I can find specs like the ones above in laptops like Samsung NP900, they always seem to have some of the things that I listed as unnecessary (NP900 for example has touchscreen), and I'd like to avoid "wasting" money on those features.</p>
<p>I'm not really working with a price limit because it really depends on the specs. If I buy a laptop that comes with a 164 GB SSD I'll be willing to pay less than I would for a 256 GB one and so on. Although it would be nice to keep it under $900 or so, if possible.</p>
<p>Also, I'm going to use for Linux. So companies like <a href="https://system76.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">system 76</a> are acceptable.</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
|
Robust laptop with SSD
|
<p>I'm actually using the Razer Blackwidow 2016 Stealth Edition and I really love it , it's really smooth and reactive. Though my girlfriend likes it less than I do because she can't sleep when I play or type things because like a lot of mechanical keyboards it makes some noise, which is a negative.</p>
<p>This is what I found about the Cherry MX Red:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqjvB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqjvB.png" alt="cherry mx red"></a></p>
<p>This is what I found for the Razer key switches:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fjPcA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fjPcA.png" alt="razer switch"></a></p>
<p>So i'd say the yellow Razer switch is the closest thing to what you're searching for.
I think it's a matter of taste more than anything so it would be best for you to go and try them out for yourself before you buy.</p>
|
7058
|
2017-03-17T01:33:25.387
|
|keyboards|
|
<p>I am a long running user of the cherry mx red key switch, and I love it! I have used both blue and brown and didn't like either of them. I use my keyboard for intense gaming sessions but also for typing, as I am always typing large documents for school. I have a high typing speed of almost 100 WPM so the cherry mx reds don't feel like they are restricting me from typing at my ability, but rather aiding it.</p>
<p>I like the look of the razer blackwidow V2 keyboard but they use their own key switches. I was wondering what razer key switch would most closely compare to the cherry mx red, and any major similarity's and differences, or pros and cons of the razer key switch over the cherry mx red for my purpose (Gaming/Typing 50/50)</p>
|
How do the razer key switches compare to cherry mx?
|
<p>Almost all always-on voice recognition phones are flagship phones. Unfortunately the smaller phones tend to be budget phones, which means they lack the always on voice feature.</p>
<p>The prices on flagship phones are usually far past the $400 mark but here's a list of recent Android phones that I should have always on voice feature:</p>
<p><strong>LG V20</strong> (around $700)</p>
<ul>
<li>5.7" LCD screen </li>
<li>4GB RAM</li>
<li>3200 mAH battery</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Google Pixel</strong> (around $750)</p>
<ul>
<li>5.0" AMOLED screen</li>
<li>4GB RAM</li>
<li>2770 mAH battery</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-z-play" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Moto Z Play</a>/<a href="https://www.motorola.com/us/products/moto-z-play-droid" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Moto Z Play Droid</a> (around $400/450)</p>
<ul>
<li>5.5" AMOLED screen</li>
<li>3GB RAM</li>
<li>3510 mAH battery</li>
</ul>
<p>So out of all of these, only the Moto Z Play phones are in your ideal price range.</p>
|
7061
|
2017-03-17T13:00:07.957
|
|android|smartphones|
|
<p>SO, I really love my Moto X 2, and it still work very well, but it's starting to get a little old... the battery doesn't last as much as it did, and the 2GB of RAM is starting to get a little cramped. Also, as usual for Android phones, the software stopped being updated. </p>
<p>What I love about it:</p>
<ul>
<li>Always-on voice recognition (even with the screen turned off);</li>
<li>The sensors in front that allow to turn the phone on using the Force;</li>
<li>The light Android skin (no TouchWiz for me, thank you);</li>
<li>The AMOLED screen;</li>
<li>The small (relative to the current trend of 42" phones) size of 5.2".</li>
</ul>
<p>Is there any current phone that have those features, but with larger RAM, preferably longer battery life, and size equal or smaller? If it can cost less than $400, even better.</p>
|
Replacement for Moto X 2nd gen (2014)
|
<p>A fully-wired PSU is simply a non-modular PSU, and comes with all power cables hard-wired. A semi-modular PSU has the essential cables hard wired and the other cables socketed. A (fully) modular PSU has all power cables socketed. To quote Overclockers:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Whereas non-modular power supplies come with all possible cables already attached, a modular PSU comes with connectors, giving you the freedom to use only the cables that you really need. There are two types of modular PSU, and the one you decide to go for will largely depend on your requirements and budget. A semi modular PSU comes with only the essential cables wired on—usually the ATX 12V and EPS 12V, and in some cases the PCI-E cables—whilst a fully modular PSU comes with no cables whatsoever. A semi modular power supply offers a more affordable solution, whilst a fully modular power supply allows for ultimate cable flexibility at a somewhat higher price point.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.overclockers.co.uk/pc-components/power-supplies/modular" rel="nofollow noreferrer">www.overclockers.co.uk</a></strong></p>
|
7081
|
2017-03-20T00:20:11.453
|
|desktop|power-supply|
|
<p>The following power supply units on Ebuyer are described as being "fully wired".</p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebuyer.com/566862-ace-black-120mm-fan-550w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psuace550br" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ace Black 120mm Fan 550W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebuyer.com/159705-cit-450w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psucit450ub" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CIT 450W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebuyer.com/151296-powercool-850w-fully-wired-80-power-supply-pc850aubab" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PowerCool 850W Fully Wired 80+ Power Supply</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebuyer.com/158481-cit-dual-rail-480w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-480ub" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CIT Dual Rail 480W Fully Wired Efficient Power Supply</a></p>
<p>Searching Google for what exactly this means brings up results for modular PSUs, but <a href="http://www.ebuyer.com/621475-builder-500w-fully-wired-efficient-power-supply-psu500builderblack" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this PSU here</a> is described as being "fully wired" while also not being modular at all. </p>
<p>The only thing I can think of that "fully wired" would describe would be a PSU that comes wired, but to me that seems about as odd a selling point as a car that comes with wheels. :-) </p>
<p><strong>When buying a PSU, what exactly does "fully wired" mean?</strong></p>
|
What does "fully wired" mean when buying a PSU?
|
<p>I would try 4 dual band routers (i.e. they can use a channel in the 2.4Ghz range and one in the 5Ghz range at the same time), and set them up on different channels to minimize interference, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels" rel="nofollow noreferrer">checking</a> for this. Go for the best routers you can get from your budget. Spread them over the room and connect them to an Ethernet switch. Try out different positions to get the most from your hardware.</p>
<p>An example of channels you could choose are channels 1, 6, 11 and 14 for 2.4Ghz as per <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#2.4.C2.A0GHz_.28802.11b.2Fg.2Fn.29" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> section and channels 36, 40, 44 and 48 for 5Ghz (I just chose the lowest non-overlapping channels allowable for the USA as per <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#5.C2.A0GHz_.28802.11a.2Fh.2Fj.2Fn.2Fac.29.5B18.5D" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>). It should not matter how you pair those channels onto the different routers, so for example routers with</p>
<ul>
<li>1 and 36</li>
<li>6 and 40</li>
<li>11 and 44</li>
<li>14 and 48
on 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz respectively.</li>
</ul>
<p>You all set them up with the same SSID and password, but otherwise nothing special, just as you would for single APs. The clients will choose the best available AP (also switch between them transparently if necessary).</p>
<p>The router/AP you mention in your comment is a single-band 2.4Ghz one. I suggested dual band ones. One hint as to whether what you are looking at is dual or single band is that dual band ones (usually) have two antennas while single band ones (usually) only have one. But check the specifications! Dual band routers should perform as good as one router in one band, and a second in the other, so essentially you could two in one.</p>
<p>I think this could work, but no guarantees. The university WWAN where I study tends to get flaky in full large lecture halls (i.e. 300-400 people) and they probably spent quite some time and money optimizing it.</p>
|
7089
|
2017-03-20T12:33:45.330
|
|wifi|wireless|networking|access-point|
|
<p>I have a big crowded hall (around 200-300 persons) that I need to cover with Wi-Fi coverage, these people need to access a web server inside the network (it's an intranet). So what is the best hardware implementation? I have a budget of 280$-300$ only. I am thinking of buying multiple access-points (maybe 10-12 access-points?), will this be enough to give a continuous and stable access to users? Is there a better implementation?</p>
<p>I'd also be glad if you kindly recommend any AP brand or a specific model.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance.</p>
|
Give Wi-Fi access to a big number of users
|
<p>The connector shown is a 5-pin modular power supply connector with a single side lock, possibly for a Be Quiet! power supply. They are widely available.
<a href="https://www.scan.co.uk/products/720mm-be-quiet!-braided-s-ata-power-cable-cs-6740-for-all-current-be-quiet!-modular-psu-4-x-sata-bla" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This example</a> is from Scan.co.uk.</p>
<p>Note that most modular power supplies that use side-locking connectors have dual side locks.</p>
<p>Here is a Be Quiet! modular PSU with single side-lock connectors:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KW4uw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KW4uw.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Pure PC</p>
|
7090
|
2017-03-20T14:44:57.403
|
|power-supply|
|
<p>This connects my PSU to my SATA HD. What is this type of cable/connector called, and where can I get more, i.e. buy one such cable not a </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KMX9v.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KMX9v.jpg" alt="PSU to SATA"></a></p>
<p>Edit, added picture of PSU:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/48cWN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/48cWN.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
What is this cable, PSU to SATA, [img]?
|
<p>As you I would upgrade the cpu and the motherboard. I think your cpu is the cause of your low fps. I myself have a i7-6700k and GTX 660 ti and I can play games like GTA V (120 fps) and CSGO (400 fps) with good full hd graphics. Also video rendering and blender etc.. aren't lagging or crashing.</p>
<p>i5-7600 is good for your use. For gaming alone it's not worth it but for your use it should be good. If you think that there is any chance that you someday want to overclock it I would take the K version. Price is almost the same on K as it is in non-K version. Motherboard does not really matter but take that one of the popular once.</p>
<p>You also need new RAM if you are going to upgrade from 1155 to 1151. If your budget is not enough take only 8GB for now. But don't take too slow RAM. You might regret that later as it makes a difference on video editing and because combining different RAMs might cause problems.</p>
<p>You did not say if you had a ssd but if you don't I really recommend getting one. I like video editing myself and gaming myself and with ssd I can really see the difference. Cheap ssd does not take much away from your budget if you buy your parts from good places. </p>
<p>For future gpu don't take the 1050Ti. That is hardly better than 660 ti. 1060 is a good choice but if it too expensive Radeon should be also good for your use.</p>
|
7097
|
2017-03-21T06:48:04.487
|
|graphics-cards|desktop|processor|
|
<p><strong>Hello community,</strong></p>
<p>Back in 2013 and build my own PC finaly. But nowdays i think its kind old for stuff i am doing at PCs.</p>
<p><strong>What I do on my pc now?</strong></p>
<p><strong>I like playing games</strong> . Recently i discover That CS: GO consume 80% of my CPU (am playing FullHD) That a lot i think.
I was trying Ghost Recon: wildlands open beta, we frame rate about 20-36 FPS and low settings in fullHD. Other games I play are sometime strategy but also want to play games modern.
With friend we play games and sometimes am a host.</p>
<p><strong>I am also YouTuber / Streamer</strong>
So i make few videos Ghost Recon form, but also record it with nvidia share (with GPU Takes the hard part). For recording using OBS am with nvidia nvec, and same setting for streaming in 720p30 in some games in 60 FPS.
Currently we streams are ok, but sometimes get laggy Because the CPU and GPU.</p>
<p><strong>Photoshop, video editing, rendering</strong>
For pictures and graphic am using photoshop Currently Seems like i have enough power.
For editng video rendering and i think its not. Take a long time to make a 20 min video like 40-50 min to render in fullHD.
Just for fun i am rendering Also fractals, but its not import.</p>
<p>Sat Those are the most stuff i am doing on my PC. Sometimes am and hosting games and streaming and so on.</p>
<p><strong>My curret build</strong>
CPU: Intel Core i5-3550p
GPU: Nvidia GTX 660Ti
RAM: 16 gigabytes 1600MHz (two slots)
MB: Asrock Z77 pro3
Drive: 1 TB Western Digital
PSU: Corsair 600 Watts</p>
<p><strong>My budget</strong>
I save 400 dolars for upgare.</p>
<p>My opinion
In my opinion i need to buy new motherboard and CPU. I am not a guy looking for graphics.
I was Considering Intel Core i5-7600 or i7-7700
and motherborad </p>
<p>But i am not sure if it buy new CPU or GPU to boost performence for gameing and recording.
And the same time there is a Ryzens with AMD, onestly i am not a fan of AMD i have a bad experince with Them in a trap.</p>
<p>I want to buy new HW for next <strong>4-5 years</strong>.
Also i not sure if i need <strong>CPU with K</strong>, beacuse i never do it</p>
<p><strong>Future GPU</strong>
In near future i would like to buy Nvidia GTX 1060 (6GB). What's to think? ITS good option for me? or should i take Radeon or 1050Ti?</p>
<p><strong>Anyway thanks for any reply and have a nice day</strong></p>
|
Looking for PC upgade
|
<p>Your question is borderline "Primarily Opinion Based", but I'll try to make my recommendation as objective as possible.</p>
<p>Considering your $200 budget. Your best bet will probably be a <strong>GTX 1060 3GB (mini)</strong>. You can find one <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01KQUD9U6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like this card offered by Gigabyte.</a> for about $185 on Amazon, or for <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814125905" rel="nofollow noreferrer">about $195 on Newegg</a>.</p>
<p>Reasons for my Recommendation:</p>
<ul>
<li>Fits all of your [measurable] requirements: costs < $200, <a href="https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/981372/geforce-basics/which-gpus-support-hevc-a-k-a-h-265-/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">supports HEVC</a> and both Amazon and Newegg provide international shipping.</li>
<li>Also, according to Passmark which provides benchmarks that I find to be reasonably reputable, the <a href="http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce%20GTX%201060%203GB&id=3566" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GTX 1060 mini</a> outperforms both the <a href="http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Radeon%20RX%20460" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RX460</a> and <a href="http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce%20GTX%201050%20Ti" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GTX 1050ti</a> by a sizable amount.</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>It can be difficult to determine how "future-proof" this card will be. However, if you plan on playing games with similar performance requirements over the next few years, you should expect similar performance. As for providing decent quality in gaming, this can be difficult to determine as "decent quality" is subjective.</p>
<p>N.B.: You didn't mention the other components in your build. Before making your purchase, you should ensure that your PSU and motherboard are compatible and [ideally] you should check that your other hardware does not bottleneck your GPU selection.</p>
|
7098
|
2017-03-21T08:45:38.493
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I have been researching on entry-level graphics cards for about a month and I have come down to four options, which I'm not sure how to finalize. The following are the cards.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01J1M4HDS?m=A1AX89K8G709X5&ref_=v_sp_detail_page" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sapphire Nitro Radeon Rx 460 4GB OC [ $199 ]</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01K1JVCRE?m=A1AX89K8G709X5&ref_=v_sp_detail_page" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte Radeon Rx 460 Windforce OC [ $126 ]</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.in/dp/B01MCU1ERO?_encoding=UTF8&m=A1AX89K8G709X5&ref_=v_sp_detail_page" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1050 Ti mini 4GB [ $150 ]</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.in/Gigabyte-Geforce-1050-Graphic-GV-N105TD5-4GD/dp/B01M4KGTNI?_encoding=UTF8&m=A1AX89K8G709X5&ref_=v_sp_detail_page" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB [ $149 ]</a></li>
</ol>
<p>The costs are more in my country (India) and hence can be substantially different from other retailers around the globe. Please advice.</p>
<p>Note: I haven't provided any precise requirements because I felt that all the 4 listed cards fall in same generation and they all meet similar requirements - budget, mid-1080p performance, decent-good HEVC decoding/encoding, almost similar performance etc. And future proof is being not to invest anything on GPU for at least 3 years. Instinctive and experience based recommendation is what I'm looking for.</p>
<p>Note2: My minimal requirements for the card is to setup an always on HTPC with onboard HEVC decoding and be able to play AAA titles at decent quality for the next 3-4 years. Budget is limited to sub-$200.</p>
|
Picking the right future proof graphics card
|
<p>Some solutions I've found so far. They are all</p>
<ul>
<li>Gigabit</li>
<li>16 ports</li>
<li>sold WITHOUT 10" rack mounting kit</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B018X9RU0W/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit 561068</a>.<br>
L x W x H: 21.5 x 13.3 x 44 millimeters</p>
<p><a href="https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B006GUN776/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Longshine LCS-GS8116-A</a>.<br>
L x W x H: 216 x 133 x 42 millimeters</p>
<p><a href="https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0046BAVQ2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ZyXEL GS-1100-16</a>.<br>
L x W x H: 215 x 133 x 42 millimeters</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00OLUJGDM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Buffalo BS-GU2016</a>.<br>
L x W x H: 215 x 13 x 42 millimeters</p>
<p>Regarding the rack mounting kit, I think (hope) that magnaroute LLC could come to the rescue, especially with that kind of product: <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01C9O1T5O" rel="nofollow noreferrer">magnaroute LLC FX-17 Multi-Vendor Rack Mount Kit</a>.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mpv1b.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mpv1b.jpg" alt="magnaroute rack mount kit"></a>
The other option is to pick a product that ships with 19" rack mount kit and adapt the kit (cut and pierce).</p>
|
7104
|
2017-03-22T01:05:39.047
|
|switch|home-electronics|
|
<p>I've recently acquired a <a href="http://www.digitus.info/en/products/network-and-server-cabinet-systems/wallmount-cabinets/unique-line/dn-10-05u-1/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Digitus DN-10-05U-1</a> (10" wide compact rack) to setup my home's network. Now I'd like to rack some proper 16 ports gigabit switch in there, but I'm really having a hard time finding anything fitting the cabinet. Everything I could find so far was either too wide, too deep, not rackable, limited to 8 ports, apparently super cheap, don't sell in my country (Belgium), ... You name it.</p>
<p>Any recommendation ?</p>
|
16 ports rackable gigabit switch(es) for 10 inches wall mounting cabinet: does it even exist?
|
<p>There are no adapters. The reason being that the PCIe version is dictated by the chipset of the motherboard itself. The ONLY way to go from PCIe 1.0 to 3.0 is to buy a board with PCIe 3.0.</p>
|
7109
|
2017-03-22T18:23:49.633
|
|motherboard|ssd|pcie|
|
<p>On my motherboard I have a PCIe v1.0 x16 slot. According to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express#History_and_revisions" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wikipedia</a>, it's able to transfer at ~4 GB/s.</p>
<p>I'm thinking of getting a PCIe SSD (for example, <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01LYFKX41" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>), which is limited to ~3.8 GB/s.</p>
<p>However, the SSD is made for PCIe v3.0 x4, which, despite also being limited to ~3.9 GB/s, poses a problem for me. Since it's only using 4 slots (hence the x4), if I plug it directly into <em>my</em> PCIe slot, it'll be limited to ~1 GB/s (or a quarter of the speed). Why? Because I have a PCIe version 1.0, and the SSD is designed for 3.0.</p>
<p>Is there an adapter that will take my PCIe v1.0 x16 slot, at 4 GB/s, and give me a PCIE v3.0 x4 slot, at 3.9 GB/s?</p>
<p>If so, could someone recommend one?</p>
<hr>
<p><sub>This was originally posted over at SuperUser <a href="https://superuser.com/questions/1191311/is-there-such-a-thing-as-an-adapter-between-pcie-versions-sizes">here</a>. Evidently it's off topic there :(, but as this site is still in beta, you can't migrate questions here IIRC. There was a pretty extended discussion in the comments, so I'll include a screenshot of the post below.</sub></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pKA2Y.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pKA2Y.png" alt="Original Post"></a></p>
|
Adapter between PCIe versions/sizes?
|
<p><em>I know its an old question at this point, but this answer should still be relevant to someone in need.</em></p>
<p><strong>Crucial MX300 SSD (1TB)</strong> ($239-280 depending on retailer)</p>
<blockquote>
<p><em><strong>The Good</strong></em> The Crucial MX300 SSD is competitively priced and delivers fast performance. The solid-state drive uses efficient 3D flash memory and provides strong security with hardware encryption.</p>
<p><em><strong>The Bad</strong></em> The drive has a short three-year warranty and trails behind its main competitor, the more expensive Samsung 850 Evo, in performance and features.</p>
<p><em><strong>The Bottom Line</strong></em> If you're looking to upgrade your computer's hard drive, the new Crucial MX300 is a speedy and affordable choice.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://www.cnet.com/products/crucial-mx300/review/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Source</a></p>
|
7112
|
2017-03-23T15:04:48.587
|
|hard-disk|ssd|ubuntu|
|
<p>I have an alienware X51 with Windows 10 installed in a HDD. I plan to buy a new SSD and install the latest version of Kubuntu (16.10 Yaketty Yak) on it. Ideally, I would like to preserve the dual-boot: win10 and kubuntu.</p>
<p>On this regard, I have a few questions:</p>
<ul>
<li>Which SSD would you recommend me to buy and from where? (~250GB should be enough; I live in Belgium) Which cables do I need?</li>
</ul>
<p>Aprox. budget: 300 USD</p>
<p>I would really appreciate any suggestion.</p>
|
Alienware X51 & SSD & Kubuntu
|
<p>I finally found a product that does what I want, the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00BUV7C9A" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OBi200</a>. It's $50, and it's not a phone, you still need to buy a home phone separately and plug it into it. But you don't need to get a paid VOIP or SIP service at all. All you need is Google Voice, which is free. This solution allows you to make and receive unlimited domestic calls within the US for free. (EDIT: You can also use it if you’re outside the US and want to make free calls to the US.)</p>
<p>Note that the set up is pretty straightforward, but one problem I ran into is that I couldn't receive calls at first. It turns out way to solve that problem is to go into Google Voice settings, and under "Forward calls to", select "Google Chat".</p>
|
7128
|
2017-03-25T17:51:18.227
|
|telephony|voip|
|
<p>When the Voice over IP (VoIP) company Ooma started, it sold a VoIP home phone that enabled free unlimited calling. But as it grew, it started charging a variety of monthly fees and taxes, although it grandfathered in people who bought the original product.</p>
<p>My question is, are there any VoIP home phones that really do what Ooma started off doing, i.e. enable free unlimited calling with absolutely no monthly or annual fees or taxes?</p>
|
A VoIP home phone that enables free unlimited calling
|
<p>I decided to go with the Ubiquity UAP-AC-PRO-US access point since my modem is a router and I can just literally connect to it.</p>
|
7131
|
2017-03-27T19:03:52.210
|
|wifi|wireless|networking|router|
|
<p>I recently bought a Netgear X6 Nighthawk R8000 AC3200 router. It is a piece of crap. I'm looking for a non-expensive replacement for this router. I live in a small apartment sharing the WiFi spectrum with 7+ other networks. I'm looking for one with a strong signal and 802.11ac that will not be interrupted from other people's networks.</p>
|
Router for small apartment
|
<p>According to <a href="http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/feature/pc-components/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-vs-gtx-1070-vs-gtx-1060-3640925/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/feature/pc-components/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-vs-gtx-1070-vs-gtx-1060-3640925/</a>, the 1070GTX has a TDP of 150W. This is the amount of heat a component produces -- which with solid-state circuitry is conveniently the amount of wattage it draws, 1-to-1. Doubling that (for two of them), gives you 300W. If we assume that's all on the 12V rail (worst-case scenario), you're asking for 25A from your power supply. Your CPU has a TDP of 91W, and lets go absolute-worst-case scenario and say your motherboard is 89W to make the math easy. This is a further 180W of power draw, or 15A @ 12V. I don't know if it's all from the 12V line, but this is the worst-case scenario.</p>
<p>A single rail (your PSU provides two) produces 30A at 12V, and a maximum of 540W @ 12V combined. Going from my worst case scenario, you are at 300+180W, or 480W of a maximum 540W. Antec quotes a 100,000h MTBF @ full load -- which means you can go bigger still. Your PSU can actually provide enough power for your CPU @ 100% load, several HDDs & fans, and a pair of stock-clocked 1080GTXs.</p>
|
7135
|
2017-03-28T13:34:51.017
|
|power-supply|
|
<p>My PC Build is :<br>
Intel i7 6700K <br>
ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING Mobo<br>
32GB RAM (Corsair Vengence 4x8GB)<br>
ASUS NVIDIA 1070 GTX DUAL<br>
Antec VP600P PSU<br><br></p>
<p>I am planning to get another 1070 GTX card for SLI, will the existing PSU support is sufficient for 2 way SLI or should i upgrade my PSU also?</p>
|
NVIDIA SLI Power Supply Recommendation
|
<p>Not too rough, if you don't mind ordering from China. Check out <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1080P-Full-HD-MJPEG-30fps-60fps-120fps-OV2710-CMOS-USB-Camera-Module-Android-/222119769081" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this ELP-USBFHD01M-L36-120FPS</a> on ebay. It's unbranded, but I've given you the model number so you can find it elsewhere. Currently, the cheapest place I can find is ebay, but that could change, as per comments.</p>
<p>It actually sports a Full HD CMOS USB Camera, which shoots at 30 / 60 / 120 FPS. It's going for $45.26 US, plus 99 cents shipping, but it looks like it meets your specifications.</p>
<p>There's also <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/2MP-High-Speed-120fps-USB-Camera-Module-3-6mm-OV2710-Color-Sensor-MJPEG-Format-/182222222239" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this ELP-USBFHD01M-L36-120FPS</a> for $49.62, which is actually the same camera from a different ebay seller.</p>
<p>Note that both of these have limited supply, so you may or may not be able to get hold on enough for your project.</p>
|
7149
|
2017-03-30T01:47:56.537
|
|video-camera|tracking-devices|
|
<p>I came up with a project for which I'll need a couple of cameras and process their output ideally realtime or with slight delay (feature detection and tracking). Initially I thought about buying couple of cheap web cams, then I realized their framerate and resolution isn't good enough and drivers aren't generally good either. So I went online to look for some sensors and found this website <a href="https://www.digikey.com/products/en/sensors-transducers/image-sensors-camera/532" rel="nofollow noreferrer">digikey.com</a> with a list of hundreds of sensors. But that only found a few items and from only 3 different manufacturers. Also the pricing seems a bit weird. Well ~$10 for 400x400px unit seems like OK, if I didn't have to buy 2500 units in total. On the other hand there are 640x480 sensors for $110. So while I understand buying thousands of units will be always cheaper then buying a single one, I'm a bit confused from this disproportion of prices. I also found different <a href="http://photonics.specpick.com/search/cmos-image-sensors/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">website</a>, but that doesn't list prices and manufacturers says, on their websites, to contact their sales dept.</p>
<p>So the actual question is: <br/></p>
<ul>
<li>Do you know a sensor that is around 800*600px and
120FPS or faster + it's price?</li>
</ul>
<p>I'd expect maybe around $50/unit, but I don't really know how much these things cost.</p>
|
Cheap 120FPS Camera sensor
|
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOomi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOomi.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>The 3 slot model is the one you need.
With your hardware combination you will have one empty slot in between the two cards. The 4 slot model is only needed if you have two empty slots in between the cards.</p>
|
7151
|
2017-03-30T11:33:27.813
|
|graphics-cards|motherboard|
|
<p>I have an ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming motherboard<br>
I have 2 NVIDIA GeForce 1070 GTX GPUs<br>
I want a bridge for these two.I am looking for ASUS ROG SLI HB Bridge and they have two models 3 slot and 4 slot, which one is the right product for my motherboard</p>
|
NVIDIA SLI Bridge recommendation
|
<p>I have something similar for archiving and documentation purposes (BIM/CAD data for houses). There are some prerequisites you need to take into account:</p>
<ul>
<li>You need a rugged notebook, and depending on the value of the data a 2nd one as spare parts.</li>
<li>The mode of operation to keep it off for X years and to start it up after such a time is a no go. If your client insists, you have to insist more that this is not the way to go (see below)</li>
<li>You cannot use a proprietary system for storage and you cannot use proprietary data formats for storage. If that is the case, you need to work out a data format and retrieval concept 1st. Also make yourself acquainted with archival storage formats such as PDF-A and seek for their equivalents in DB systems.</li>
<li>Redundancy, redundancy, redundancy. Depending on the size of the data and if this is the only data to be stored/retrieved, you have to partition your notebook hard disk N times, where the Nth part is able to hold these data. Copy them N times. Use also more than one hard drive (better two smaller than one bigger. Use different technologies (one SSD, one HDD, if the notebook has optical drives - as rugged notebooks often have, use these too)</li>
<li>Documentation, documentation, documentation. You need to keep the notebook together with extensive - written and printed - documentation about hardware, place of purchase, manufacturer, components etc. in one place. You also need to make very extensive <em>ab initio</em> documentation how to retrieve the data, where you provide a plan A, B and C of retrieving the data in the documentation.</li>
</ul>
<p>Mode of operation:</p>
<p>As I wrote above, forget about opening the notebook in 7 years. Set up a periodic schedule once a year to start up the notebook (also have this procedure exactly documented in your printed out documentation).</p>
<p>The bootup should basically show any pending problems. If you get reading errors, maybe some SSD has started losing data. It's better to know that earlier than later, because retrieval may still be possible than when you get to know 5 years later.</p>
<p>You should never store the notebook with the battery plugged in. Also, the battery (Li-Ion) should be loaded only 70%. If you can get a notebook with LiFePO4 battery - get that. Life expectancy is 20 years.</p>
<p>Your VM proposal of a "life" backup system is also important. Do it. It's another kind of redundancy. A "hot backup" contrary to what I've described above which could be perceived a cold backup.</p>
<p>The notebook should also be stored in a safe place. A safe maybe, for the extra safety margin with temperature and humidity sensors (some capacitors tend to dry out) and keep environmental conditions in approved range.</p>
<p>There is of course more that could - and in case of real mission critical data should (as e.g. geographical dislocation of the two notebooks) - be done, but the above should get you going.</p>
|
7177
|
2017-04-03T15:55:49.463
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I need to configure a notebook to "backup" a live-database for 10 years. </p>
<p>The client wants to open the notebook in, let's say, 7 years, start the OS, open up his applications, check some data, shut it down again. It's like a long-term-live-backup-system. I advised him, that maybe a VM with the running DB + clients + virtual storage, saved on an archival DVD / BluRay / tape / SSD (whatever) would be a better and more flexible idea. He was thrilled and said I should do that, too...</p>
<p>So now I need a notebook which has the chance to start up again in ten years. </p>
<p>Ordinarily, every system should be able to provide that, if the hardware is stored in a safe place (temperature, etc.) but maybe somebody here knows of a very stable / durable notebook I could use.</p>
<p>Of course they will be needing a CMOS battery and maybe a new PSU or something, but the main system has to be up and running again on very short notice.</p>
<p>Somebody got any experience in this and could provide me with some info / thoughts?</p>
<p><strong>Edit: tl;dr:</strong> I need a "durable" laptop, which will be powered off for 10 years and still has a chance to be up and running again on short notice, with no to few expectable hardware failures.</p>
|
Live system (notebook) running database for 10y
|
<p>Sounds like a studio monitor controller is the right thing for you (however a bit over your price range - currently about 124 USD):</p>
<ul>
<li>You can individually turn on/off the input channels,</li>
<li>have volume control,</li>
<li>headphone connectors,</li>
<li>additionally it can act as an audio interface so you have another digital input via USB,</li>
<li>this one has even 3 outputs which can individually turned on/off and</li>
<li>a mono, mute and dim functionality.</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iw2AP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iw2AP.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.thomannmusic.com/behringer_control2usb.htm?sid=4f667695faee1e73dd0708b345391d69" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thomannmusic.com/behringer_control2usb.htm?sid=4f667695faee1e73dd0708b345391d69</a></p>
|
7201
|
2017-04-09T18:00:24.790
|
|audio|
|
<p>I have two audio sources, both using 3.55mm "headphone jack" outputs.</p>
<p>I have one set of powered stereo speakers.</p>
<p>I need to connect both sources to my single pair of speakers. Ideally, I'd like to be able to hear both sources at the same time, but this isn't completely necessary. I ABSOLUTELY do not want to have to press a button to manually switch.</p>
<p>I don't need anything fancy—-no individual volume control or microphone inputs or anything like that. But I do want to avoid any significant loss of audio quality.</p>
<p>How can I do this for under $25? Or if that's completely unreasonable, how can I do it for as little money as possible?</p>
<hr>
<p><sub> While I suspect this won't matter since the audio is already analog, I play a lot of rhythm video games, so anything that introduces latency is a no-go.</sub></p>
|
Two Audio Sources -> One set of speakers
|
<p>I've been looking around a bit, and first one note about the problem with bluetooth quality: The standard only supports either stereo music <em>or</em> mono plus microphone (I think I even found this explained somewhere on <a href="http://superuser.com">http://superuser.com</a>). Anyway, so far I've found the following two candidates, coincidentally all from SteelSeries (no, I am not affiliated, apparently they just <em>are</em> good):</p>
<ul>
<li>The <a href="https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/siberia-840" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SteelSeries Siberia 840</a> can be used both wired (full quality, not using bluetooth) and wireless, has two battery packs for quick exchange and recharge, <em>and</em> additional bluetooth connectivity. Obviously that comes at a price around 300$</li>
<li>The <a href="https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/arctis-3-bluetooth" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arcits 3 Bluetooth</a> is probably what you're actually looking for, wired but with bluetooth support, and from its description apparently even working synchronously (I'm not sure if bluetooth still works with wires disconnected, but why else would a battery be included?). At ~150€ it's also much cheaper than the Siberia 840. Just remember with bluetooth you cannot use the microphone <em>and</em> have stereo quality at the same time (though the description suggests you can listen to stereo quality over wire <em>and</em> use the mono+microphone bluetooth in parallel)</li>
<li>The <a href="https://steelseries.com/gaming-headsets/arctis-7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arctis 7</a> can be used wired and wireless, but unfortunately it lacks bluetoth. But maybe bluetooth is not what you actually wanted, but rather wireless in general. The disadvantage is it only works via USB in wireless mode</li>
</ul>
|
7202
|
2017-04-10T05:24:03.897
|
|gaming|bluetooth|headset|
|
<p>I have recently gotten back into online gaming after being introduced to Overwatch. I've found that in order to get the most out of the game it's important to be on voice. I have a pair of bluetooth headphones that also doubles as a headset which is what I am currently using to talk to my teammates.</p>
<p>However I've run into two issues. The first is that the quality of the game sound and mic is not very good when the headphones are in headset mode and the second is that the battery has died on me a few times in game.</p>
<p>The solution for this would be to get a wired headset in order to talk while in game, wired (USB or analog) provides better quality then bluetooth and usually doesn't consume any power. However, I like having a pair of bluetooth headphones that I can use to listen to music while I'm doing stuff around the house.</p>
<p>Are there any headphones that support bluetooth and a wired option that also have a mic built in? I've been googling around but most headsets for gaming look to support wireless audio over wifi only. The closest I've come is <a href="http://www.808audio.com/headphones/performer-bt/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these</a> and I'm not sure the mic quality would be very good.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
|
Headset with Bluetooth and Wired
|
<p>The brand and cooling systems are NOT the main differences here, so let's break it down. I will now attempt a Venn diagram in bullet point format:</p>
<p>Specs shared by both the MSI and Gigbyte models:</p>
<ul>
<li>Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 GPU</li>
<li>8GB 8008MHz GDDR5 Graphics RAM</li>
<li>Display connectors (3x DP, 1x HDMI 1x DL DVI-D)</li>
</ul>
<p>Specs specific to MSI model:</p>
<ul>
<li>Base clock: 1556 MHz</li>
<li>Boost clock: 1746 MHz</li>
</ul>
<p>Specs specific to Gigabyte model:</p>
<ul>
<li>Base clock: 1594 MHz (gaming mode), 1620 MHz (OC mode)</li>
<li>Boost clock: 1784 MHz (gaming mode), 1822 MHz (OC mode)</li>
</ul>
<p>What you are paying the extra $100 for is not just the cooling system, it's also the pre-overclocked card. You are getting a card with a theoretical maximum speed that is 76 MHz faster.</p>
<p>Recommendation (TL;DR): If you have the extra money and want the little extra bit of power, go for it. But being that you chose the 1070 instead of the 1080, I'm thinking that little bit of power isn't very important to you, and probably not worth the $100 investment.</p>
|
7206
|
2017-04-12T10:58:08.447
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I want to buy a NVIDIA GTX 1070 GPU for deep learning tasks. The following GPUs are the candidates:</p>
<ul>
<li>GIGABYTE GV-N1070G1 GAMING-8GD Graphic Card</li>
<li>MSI-GeForce-GTX-1070-ARMOR-8G-OC-Graphics-Card</li>
</ul>
<p>The former is around 100$ more expensive in my country. I think the main difference is their cooling system. </p>
<p>Are there any additional features that justify the price difference?</p>
|
Comparing two GTX 1070 GPUs for deep learning tasks
|
<p>In my opinion, you are better off going with the Alienware R3 Laptop.</p>
<p>Here is a list of reasons as to why I would recommend it over the Dell XPS:</p>
<ul>
<li>GTX 1060 will be much more useful than the GTX 1050 in both Gaming and Content Creation (Due to the more CUDA Cores and VRAM)</li>
<li>An SSD/HDD combo will net you both fast loading times as well as much more storage space</li>
<li>Better value, considering you are getting a G-Sync Panel and a higher end GPU for a lower cost than the XPS</li>
</ul>
<p>Some Notes:</p>
<p>If you are concerned about color accuracy and believe that you will benefit from a better display, I would suggest saving up some money for a more professional monitor to use when you plan on doing content creation.</p>
<p>I cannot guarantee that either of the laptops mentioned will last for over 5 years.</p>
|
7211
|
2017-04-12T20:14:40.027
|
|laptop|gaming|
|
<p>I'm planning to buy a new laptop and planning to have is for the next 5-7 years laptop. I wanted the laptop for graphic design, programming, video editing and gaming(please don't recommend desktop setup because I'll be traveling a lot thanks). </p>
<p><strong>Alienware:</strong>
I don't mind the heaviness since I know it has a great built quality but I the color accuracy is not that accurate like XPS.</p>
<p><strong>Chosen specs:</strong>
- 7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-7700HQ (Quad-Core, 6MB Cache, up to 3.8GHz w/ Turbo Boost)
- NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1060 with 6GB GDDR5
-15.6 inch FHD (1920 x 1080) 60Hz IPS Anti-Glare 300-nits NVIDIA G-SYNC Enabled
-16GB DDR4 at 2400MHz
- 128GB M.2 SATA 6Gb/s SSD (Boot) + 1TB 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s (Storage)
- Killer 1535 802.11ac 2x2 WiFi and Bluetooth 4.1
- <strong>$1,674.99</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dell XPS:</strong>
I love the screen and it's almost edgeless but I'm afraid since it's too thin(probably smaller fan). Maybe it could get overheat easily for gaming and probably can be broken like 1-3 years for continuous use.</p>
<p><strong>Chosen specs:</strong></p>
<p>-7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-7700HQ Quad Core Processor (6M cache, up to 3.8 GHz)
-16GB DDR4-2400MHz
-512GB PCIe Solid State Drive
-NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1050 with 4GB GDDR5
-15.6" FHD (1920 x 1080) InfinityEdge
-Killer 1535 802.11ac 2x2 WiFi and Bluetooth 4.1
-97WHr battery
-$1,749.99</p>
<p>So I need your help guys which one is really worth it and will last for years(please include explanation too, why you chose XPS or alienware). Thanks !!!!</p>
|
Alienware R3 15 or Dell XPS 15
|
<p>Considering your requirements, I'd recommend Dell's <a href="http://www.dell.com/uk/p/inspiron-15-5567-laptop/pd?oc=cn55717&model_id=inspiron-15-5567-laptop" rel="nofollow noreferrer">New Inspiron 15 5000 (5567)</a> which goes for about <strong>£799 + VAT and delivery</strong>. From personal experience, Dell's laptops tend to be decently robust and are of good quality.</p>
<hr>
<p><strong><em>Reasons for Recommendation:</em></strong></p>
<p><em>Meets All of your Requirements:</em></p>
<ul>
<li>7th Gen Kaby Lake i7-7500U @ 2.7GHz</li>
<li>256GB SSD</li>
<li>1920x1080 FHD Display</li>
<li>16GB DDR4-2400 MHz</li>
</ul>
<p><em>Meets of your non-Vital Requirements:</em></p>
<ul>
<li><p>15.6" Anti-Glare Display</p></li>
<li><p><a href="http://laptopmedia.com/review/dell-inspiron-15-5567-review-a-good-all-rounder-for-work-multimedia-and-even-gaming/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">7hrs 35min run time on battery while browsing.</a></p></li>
<li><p>Dedicated GPU - AMD Radeon R7 M445</p></li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>SSD upgrades are possible, however they may not be within your budget since most larger capacity SSDs cost more than £75.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ppnzf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ppnzf.png" alt="5567"></a></p>
|
7223
|
2017-04-14T21:27:59.297
|
|laptop|gaming|development|video-editing|
|
<p>I need a laptop that will cope with light video editing, software development, and maybe a bit of gaming if I have time. I regularly have 30+ tabs open in Chrome, with multiple Word / Excel / Outlook instances open and run disk intensive downloads frequently.</p>
<p>My budget is £875 (GBP) including UK VAT absolute max.</p>
<p>Needs to have</p>
<ul>
<li>An Intel Core i7 5th Gen or greater</li>
<li>At least 256GB harddrive, SSD preferred but can be an m.2 of lesser capacity as long as it has a second HDD</li>
<li>FHD (1920x1080) resolution or better</li>
<li>8GB of RAM or more </li>
</ul>
<p>Would be nice to have (not vital)</p>
<ul>
<li>15" or larger Screen</li>
<li>8 or more hours of battery life on general computing, not intensive stuff clearly</li>
<li>A dedicated GPU</li>
</ul>
<p>Bear in mind I have built a PC before, and if a cheaper laptop is upgradeable within my budget, im happy to do that, such as buy a bigger internal hdd or RAM with the laptop all within the £875 (GBP)</p>
|
Laptop for light video editing, programming etc
|
<p>I would recommend the <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8TK4C50285" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo ThinkPad P50</a>.</p>
<p>Here's an overview of the specifications:</p>
<ul>
<li>i7-6700HQ (4 Cores/8 Threads) at 2.6GHz (Turbo to 3.5GHz)</li>
<li>32GB DDR4 2133MHz RAM</li>
<li>1TB SSD</li>
<li>Quadro M1000M GPU</li>
<li>$1920</li>
</ul>
<p>The i7 Should be able to drive a couple servers at once, since it has 8 Threads. 32GB of RAM should be more than enough for multiple running processes. A 1TB SSD should give you low latency, fast R/W, and a large amount of data storage. The Quadro M1000M GPU should be fine for photo editing and driving multiple displays if needed. I believe there are 2 more 2.5" Bays, so you can add more storage in the future if needed.</p>
|
7251
|
2017-04-19T15:03:42.340
|
|laptop|development|web-development|
|
<p>can you advice me some good laptops for back end development?
Primary I need good procesor for running servers like, Geoserver, IIS, and so on (i7 ?) and a lot of RAM (12-16GB or more). I do not know if I need external graphic card, I am using sometimes Photoshop for small design, or photo editing.
For data I need 512GB SSD or more (if HDD, price must be lower for bought custom SSD).</p>
<p>My budget is max 2000$. Thanks.</p>
|
Laptop for developer
|
<p>I ended up getting an Asus Zenwatch 2, as it has a mic and a speaker, and can record audio on the watch, without a phone nearby.</p>
<p>The app I'm using so far is <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tamalbasak.watchrecorder" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Watch Recorder with Mic Zoom</a>, which lets you record and playback multiple audio files on the watch without a phone.</p>
|
7258
|
2017-04-20T14:56:43.587
|
|smart-device|
|
<p>I'm looking for a smartwatch, that can record and playback audio, without a phone, as I don't have one.</p>
<h3>I'd also prefer that it</h3>
<ul>
<li>have an app store, development kit available, e.g. ios, android wear, or tizen make sense</li>
<li>< $200</li>
<li>vibration support</li>
<li>speaker</li>
<li>microphone</li>
</ul>
<p>I find so many of these watches want you to have a phone - e.g. the Pebble Time.</p>
|
Smart Watch - record and playback audio without phone?
|
<p>This article linked below mentions that pressure sensitivity has been implemented in Android since API Level 5.</p>
<p>I would see no reason why the S2 wouldn't have these features.</p>
<p><a href="http://pocketnow.com/2015/09/07/force-touch-android-has-had-that-for-years" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://pocketnow.com/2015/09/07/force-touch-android-has-had-that-for-years</a></p>
|
7262
|
2017-04-21T13:55:22.953
|
|android|tablet|
|
<p>I have to buy a tablet for a research project. During the project I have to collect sensor and user inputs of the tablet (The goal is to predict the attention level of the user with machine learning). I'm thinking about the following sensors / specifications the tablet should have:</p>
<ul>
<li>Proximity sensor (proximity of face to device)</li>
<li>Acceleration</li>
<li>Gyroscope</li>
<li>Pressure sensor (touchscreen pressure)</li>
<li>Touchscreen input (where touched, trace,...)</li>
<li>GPS</li>
<li>Audio / Video (front cam)</li>
<li>Sim card slot / WLAN</li>
</ul>
<p>If there are more sensor which I'm currently not aware of, feel free to mention them.</p>
<p>Of course the OS (e.g. Android) has to provide facility to read out the corresponding values. I think the Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 fulfills all requirements, except the pressure sensor. I'm not aware of an Android device which has a pressure sensor built in. I know that new Apple smartphone have a pressure sensor but I don't know if Apple tablets have a pressure sensor as well.</p>
<p>Which device would you recommend fulfilling the above requirements (and having perhaps additional sensors)? May it be Android or iOS...</p>
|
Which tablet with a lot of sensors (proximity, pressure,...)?
|
<p>The Samsung NX 300 can upload pictures to Facebook after you configure Wi-Fi, and presumably your Facebook username/password.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5Fbp.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5Fbp.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<em>Picture from <a href="https://globalnews.ca/news/785601/how-to-pick-the-right-wifi-digital-camera/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://globalnews.ca/news/785601/how-to-pick-the-right-wifi-digital-camera/</a></em></p>
<p><a href="https://itstillworks.com/cameras-upload-facebook-via-wifi-23238.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This article</a> talks about similar features in Canon and Nikon cameras, as well as in other Samsung models such as the affordable ST150F.</p>
|
7268
|
2017-04-23T11:26:55.250
|
|smartphones|camera|
|
<p>I know that a good mobile phone does this, but I would like to have a camera-ish camera with real buttons, and that I do not need to download my pictures to my laptop but I could upload to facebook on the fly.</p>
<p>What is the correct search term for such a device?</p>
<p>GSM camera gave me surveillance video cameras.</p>
|
Camera with gsm card and facebook client
|
<p>It cold support it but i would recommend to give your PC headroom and getting something like 550W or 650w, most of those power supplies cost around 90-120 dollars.</p>
|
7274
|
2017-04-25T06:16:03.690
|
|power-supply|
|
<p>I have an old power supply with the following characteristics:<br>
PORSCHE Model: P4-450W, 20+4 pin connectors</p>
<p>Recently I am assembling a new PC with the following parts:<br>
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080<br>
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500<br>
Motherboard: MSI z170A<br>
RAM: DDR4 2800-16GB</p>
<p>Is my old power supply enough for my new PC or I should buy a new one? What are the possible effects of using the current old power supply?</p>
|
Suitable power supply for my system
|
<ul>
<li><p>Yes, graphics card usually support some low level basic display mode that is supported by most OS installers.</p></li>
<li><p>As the motherboard is the interconnect for all components you might not want to spend too little but you certainly don't need WiFi, BT etc.. You need to make the decision.</p></li>
<li><p>It should. You could try to crosscheck with some of the many calculators available from power supply vendors. In addition PCPartPicker gives a rough estimate. As for future additions it would depend on what and how much.</p></li>
<li><p>Personally I'd use a classic air cooler and your current list is missing case fans.</p></li>
</ul>
|
7276
|
2017-04-25T09:31:59.387
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I am planning a build for machine learning purposes, more specifically, training neural network models for image classification/localization etc, budget is below 2000 euro.</p>
<p>Provisional build is listed here:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>PCPartPicker part list: <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MW8PHN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MW8PHN</a></p>
<p>Price breakdown by merchant:
<a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MW8PHN/by_merchant/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MW8PHN/by_merchant/</a></p>
<p>CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @
SuperBiiz) </p>
<p>CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @
Corsair) </p>
<p>Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard </p>
<p>Memory: Crucial Ballistix 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($63.98 @
Directron) </p>
<p>Memory: Crucial Ballistix 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
($63.98 @ Directron) </p>
<p>Storage: Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($169.99
@ SuperBiiz) </p>
<p>Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0
Video Card ($499.99 @ B&H) </p>
<p>Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ Newegg) </p>
<p>Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular
ATX Power Supply ($74.89 @ OutletPC) </p>
<p>Total: $1277.80</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I have a few questions in mind:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>I have opted for a Xeon CPU without integrated graphics, because I already have a GPU on board. Will that make it difficult for me to install an OS (Ubuntu Linux) on the machine? I am a bit concerned about the "you need to install a driver to display things, but you need to display things in order to install the system to begin with" catch-22. </p></li>
<li><p>I don't need a gaming/fancy motherboard since this is supposed to be just a number cruncher. In fact, I don't even need a keyboard or monitor once the system is setup: I can just ssh into it and execute programs. So can I save a bit money here without compromising performance?</p></li>
<li><p>Does the power supply listed above have enough wattage to support the whole build? What if I want to add more GPUs to it in the future?</p></li>
<li><p>Any other suggestions will also be welcome. </p></li>
</ul>
|
Build a introductory level PC for machine learning
|
<p>8 ohms is nothing, you don't need an amplifier for that. The power supplied with a mobile phone is enough to drive your headphones. You'll blow out your eardrums with an amp. (250 ohm headphones and I'd recommend an amp, but you could still get away without using one at that level)</p>
<p>If you still insist on getting an amplifier for your headphones, you can get really any amplifier. Just make sure you don't go and max out the gain (I wouldn't turn that up too much anyway because it can end up amplifying a signal enough to hear some of that annoying white noise). Again, The decibels required to actually wreck your headphones will wreck your ears before you destroy your headphones.</p>
|
7304
|
2017-04-29T12:03:24.397
|
|speakers|amplifiers|sound-system|
|
<p>I have two speakers with 8 ohms 91dz and 100w rms (250w max). How much watt and ohms will my amplifier need? I lack basic understanding of electronics and therefore need advise on the minimal requirements an amplifier needs to not destroy my speakers. </p>
|
What are the minimal requirements for my speakers?
|
<p>According to the <a href="https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.MUNAA.014" rel="nofollow noreferrer">product page</a> the Chromebook has a Celeron 3205U Dual Core clocked at 1.5 GHz. The other machines in your list (<a href="https://system76.com/laptops/galago" rel="nofollow noreferrer">1</a>, <a href="https://puri.sm/products/librem-13/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2</a>, <a href="http://www3.lenovo.com/de/de/laptops/thinkpad/x-series/ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-4th-Gen/p/22TP2TXX14G" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3</a>, <a href="http://www.dell.com/de/p/xps-13-9360-laptop/pd" rel="nofollow noreferrer">4</a>) start with Intel Core i5 processors of the 6th or 7th generation usually clocked about one GHz higher featuring Hyper Threading.</p>
<p>Cnet <a href="https://www.cnet.com/products/acer-chromebook-15/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">says</a> the Chromebook has M.2 storage, which is better than the typical non-upgradeable and typically slower eMMC found in many other Chromebooks. It would be nice if the RAM was upgradeable too, 4 GB are not shabby but not plenty either. I'd rate the slow processor as a deal breaker though because I had a similar Celeron stutter at 1080p video playback (on a smaller screen so scaling was also involved). So the comparably big screen may not be useful at all. You may argue that you are not the kind of person watching 1080p videos on such a device and I'd mostly agree, but if the processor is already under high load in this scenario and most of the time struggling to keep up with running a non-ChromeOS OS (like just opening XFCE's or Gnome's resource monitor) then I wouldn't want to wait for it to get its work done when I actually need to be productive. Also these are usually passive cooled devices, which may overheat and crash or just throttle down even more (to get no work done at all!?). Core m processors (soon to be rebranded as Core i3) are a bit better, but they also have unusual CPU spikes when just scrolling through a website in Chromium, which I haven't noticed on mobile or desktop Core i5 processors. For a device of this size a 3270 mAh battery is a disappointment and I wouldn't recommend buying a non-USB-PD charging Chromebook, all the newer ones come with USB Type-C as per Google's new requirements (it's said to be a huge advantage in educational institutions to only have one charging connector).</p>
<p>N.B.: CB5-571/AURON_YUNA supports Coreboot UEFI payloads (not dual-booting ChromeOS this way though), but <a href="https://mrchromebox.tech/#devices" rel="nofollow noreferrer">not all</a> Chromebooks do, you'd have to use the legacy boot slot to boot an after market Linux distro.</p>
<p>Regarding my experience, I have:</p>
<ul>
<li>A Lenovo N22 with a very similar Celeron, 2 GB of RAM and slow 32 GB of eMMC mass storage. It has very good battery life due to the low power processor that can get about 20 hours out the 4500 mAh battery on the lowest brightness setting. But I don't use it very much due to its underpowered processor, rather clunky, non-convertible form factor and because of …</li>
<li>A ASUS C302 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core m3 processor, 4 GB of RAM, comparably fast 64 GB of eMMC. Battery life is a bit worse due to the beefier processor and only 3900 mAh which results in 8 to 12 hours on lower brightness settings, which is okay because of the good screen. It also has USB Type-C charging, so I just need to pack one (bigger) charger for phone and laptop if I decide I'm going to need it. It's a very slim and sturdy convertible device for media consumption.</li>
<li>A Thinkpad T560 with touchscreen and backlit keyboard, Core i5 processor, 16 GB of RAM, 1 TB midrange SSD, built in battery plus a small and a large replaceable battery, but no USB Type-C charging. I pull this one out of the bag whenever I decided that it's worth to carry around so much weight (it is most of the time). It's not as clunky as older devices like a T530 (which recently received Coreboot support if I didn't get it wrong) but in some crowded situations I left the 15" in the bag and used the smaller ASUS instead, which has – hard to deny – become my daily driver, even though I prefer additional performance of the beefier machine.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Summary:</strong> I'd stay away from Celeron powered Chromebooks if you cannot live inside tmux or other specific, very trimmed down setups (GalliumOS is already very nice). A cheap small Chromebook as a non-primary device may be okay, but consider saving the money and buying a better equipped device for double the price. Such premium convertible Chromebooks with touchscreens and backlit keyboards are rare, hard to get and even more pricier at the moment here in Germany, but honestly save your money or go for the pricier Ultrabooks/Laptops while we wait for more competitive devices. I found <a href="https://chromeunboxed.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Chrome Unboxed</a> to be an interesting read on this topic.</p>
<p>Edit: Some usually bring up video editing and make it sound like something unusual, resource heavy thing that you don't usually do unless you are an artist or trying to make money off of Youtube but just set the playback speed of video above 1x and look at how that changes resource consumption or just quickly seek to the right timestamp in a video. It's also not completely absurd to watch video this way see <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/576i#PAL_speed-up" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PAL speed-up</a>.</p>
<hr>
<h1>Comparing features and numbers</h1>
<h2>Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition (9360)</h2>
<ul>
<li>Battery: 60Wh</li>
<li>Display/size: 13,3" up to 3200×1800px, up to 400nits on some models (<a href="http://www.pcmag.com/review/352469/lenovo-thinkpad-x1-carbon-2017" rel="nofollow noreferrer">source</a>)</li>
<li>Storage: M.2</li>
<li>Weight: 1,2kg</li>
<li>Pros: USB-PD, Thunderbolt</li>
</ul>
<h2>Librem 13</h2>
<ul>
<li>Battery: -, claimed 7 to 9 hours</li>
<li>Display/size: 13.3", 1920×1080px</li>
<li>Storage: M.2 + SATA 3</li>
<li>Weight: 1,4kg</li>
<li>Cons: no USB-PD, small touchpad with buttons</li>
</ul>
<h2>Galago Pro</h2>
<ul>
<li>Battery: 35,3Wh</li>
<li>Display/size: 13", 3200×1800px</li>
<li>Storage: M.2 + SATA 3</li>
<li>Weight: 1,3kg</li>
<li>Cons: no USB-PD</li>
</ul>
<h2>ThinkPad X1 Carbon 4th Gen</h2>
<ul>
<li>Battery: 52Wh, claimed 11 hours</li>
<li>Display/size: 14", up to 2560×1440px, up to 300nits on some (<a href="http://www.pcmag.com/review/352469/lenovo-thinkpad-x1-carbon-2017" rel="nofollow noreferrer">source</a>)</li>
<li>Storage: M.2 + SATA 3</li>
<li>Weight: 1,11kg</li>
<li>Pros: USB-PD, (Thunderbolt?)</li>
</ul>
<h2>ThinkPad X1 Carbon <a href="http://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-x/ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-5th-Generation/p/22TP2TXX15G" rel="nofollow noreferrer">5th Gen</a></h2>
<ul>
<li>Battery: 57Wh, claimed 15,5 hours</li>
<li>Display/size: 14", up to 2560×1440px, 300nits</li>
<li>Storage: M.2 (only?)</li>
<li>Weight: 1,39kg</li>
<li>Pros: USB-PD, Thunderbolt</li>
<li>Also available in Silver</li>
</ul>
|
7339
|
2017-05-07T05:07:08.317
|
|laptop|performance|
|
<p>If I googled best Linux laptops in 2017 I came up with a list like:</p>
<ul>
<li>Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition </li>
<li>System76 Galago Pro</li>
<li>Purism Librem 13</li>
<li>Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon</li>
</ul>
<p>What use cases (except video editing, virtualbox, gaming) will break performance of a cheep alternative laptop like Acer Chromebook 15 CB5-571-C1DZ? What are your experience, when you need a upper class laptop in your daily life? Or can we say everything becomes faster on a laptop in the list above against Acer Chromebook 15, regardless which Applications you will run.</p>
|
Recommendations for Linux Laptop 2017
|
<p>Sounds like your hard drive died. That clicking sound is the reader head slamming back and forth.</p>
|
7340
|
2017-05-07T06:10:46.497
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I have acer e5 473g and yesterday its fell from my bed and after the laptop fell the laptop went off</p>
<p>And after i turn it on again the laptop stuck at acer logo didnt reach windows10 loading circle and it made a weird noise:</p>
<p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Unidi92-VAbXp5QnlGLXdZTjg/view?usp=drivesdk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Noise</a></p>
<p>Whats wrong and can its still be fixed? Sorry if im asking at the wrong place... thanks</p>
|
Weird noise from laptop?
|
<p>I got an Acer Aspire V Nitro laptop last year for my wife to game on and it has been fantastic. It didn't come with a lot of bloatware, if we're doing normal internet/video/etc it will last 5 or more hours on a charge, it's screen has deliciously vibrant colors, and it runs all our games smooth and fast. I understand you don't necessarily need the ability to play games, but reaching that far means it should handle photoshop for years to come, right?</p>
<p><a href="https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NH.Q23AA.002" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$1300 option</a>: This model I think hits all your checkmarks plus a few of mine. Comparison Notes:</p>
<ul>
<li>1TB hard drive + 256GB SSD. Windows and programs will install on the SSD so that you get really fantastic start speeds. If you haven't yet seen photoshop start on a PC with an SSD, you're in for a treat. 1TB is about as big as you're going to get stock in a laptop.</li>
<li>5.7lbs, a little bit heavier than the $850 option below. Probably still won't feel heavy though. Mine is 5lbs and it doesn't feel like a gaming laptop. It could easily masquerade as a cheap walmart special.</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1TS-000X-00P41" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$850 option</a>: This one's a refurbished previous generation model for considerably less. Comparison Notes:</p>
<ul>
<li>This model lacks the SSD, which means it will take a little longer to boot and to open Photoshop. Still, it should do well enough. </li>
<li>The processor is the same i7, just 1 generation previous. Means that the $1300 option will have maybe 10% more cpu power. You won't notice it.</li>
<li>The GPU is considerably less powerful than the $1300's. If you were playing games, you'd have to tune some of them back from ultimate settings. But, you aren't playing games and this will already be overkill for photoshop and illustrator. So that doesn't really matter.</li>
</ul>
<p>Honestly, you'd probably be just as happy with the $850 option. In fact, if it had the dual SSD/HDD configuration, I wouldn't even mention the more expensive option.</p>
<p>Good Luck!</p>
|
7352
|
2017-05-09T16:42:26.293
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I need to buy a laptop for graphic design.</p>
<p>My requirements, from top to lowest priority:</p>
<ol>
<li>NOT ASUS</li>
<li><p>MUST run all adobe programs and features fast and smooth (photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect.).</p>
<hr></li>
<li><p>light weight is a big benefit.</p></li>
<li>price
(please give me 850$ option and 1300$options)</li>
<li>screen size must not pass 15.6"</li>
<li>hard disk space.</li>
</ol>
<p>Price is important. If you can satisfy 1. and 2. with a low cost computer, please link to it.</p>
<p>I would be happy for more than one option to choose from.</p>
|
I need a recommendation for a low cost graphic design laptop
|
<p>Instead of relying on theoretical considerations, it is wise to take into account real measured hash rates. Fortunately, since many tech sites have taken upon themselves to do these benchmarks, and publish the results, you do not have to actually purchase the cards to get hard numbers for yourself. These numbers can reveal certain unexpected deviations from the theoretically expected hash rates: For example many miners have found an unexplained decrease in hash rate on the newer Polaris GPUs at larger DAG sizes. <a href="http://www.legitreviews.com/ethereum-hashrate-performance-drop-might-coming-amd-nvidia-gpus-tested_195702" rel="nofollow noreferrer">(1)</a><a href="https://www.techspot.com/article/1438-ethereum-mining-gpu-benchmark/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">(2)</a> This can mean trouble over the long term, as those cards become obsolete for mining before paying for themselves.</p>
<p>Looking at the benchmark results, we can immediately see some interesting figures. The older R9 390/Xs perform superbly, and do not appear to degrade at higher DAG sizes. It's somewhat surprising to see the GTX 1070 above the 1080, something we would never know just looking at the 1080's higher core count and memory bandwidth. It appears that GDDR5 has superior latency characteristics for mining than the GDDR5X used in the 1080 (Another reason spec sheets do not tell the whole story: latency information is missing). The GTX 1060 also performs adequately, though for future proofing, the 6 GB version is a must.</p>
<p>Overall, due to the higher power consumption and lower availability of the older Radeon cards, although the R9 390 is a viable candidate, I do not heavily recommend it. Essentially, the decision is between the 1070 and the 1060. The choice between the two essentially boils down to how much capital you plan on investing into your mining gear. Since for a more expensive GPU, the rest of the system makes up for a smaller proportion of total costs, I would recommend the GTX 1070 as a first choice and the GTX 1060 or R9 390/X GPUs as secondary options.</p>
|
7358
|
2017-05-11T14:11:00.230
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I'm looking for a good ethereum mining GPU. I heard it's mostly memory bandwidth intensive, so I rounded up the specs of the latest cards from Wikipedia and came up this (prices are in CAD.): </p>
<pre><code>card price watts GB/s GB/s/$ GB/s/W $/(GB/s)/year
GeForce GTX 1050 148.82 75 112 0.75 1.49 1.548
GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 189.78 75 112 0.59 1.49 1.974
GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 271.69 120 224 0.82 1.87 1.413
GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 339.96 120 224 0.66 1.87 1.768
GeForce GTX 1070 517.44 150 256 0.49 1.71 2.355
GeForce GTX 1080 817.81 180 352 0.43 1.96 2.707
GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 954.34 250 484 0.51 1.94 2.297
NVIDIA TITAN X 1638.35 250 480 0.29 1.92 3.977
NVIDIA TITAN Xp 1638.35 250 547.7 0.33 2.19 3.485
Radeon RX 460 189.78 75 112 0.59 1.49 1.974
Radeon RX 470 244.39 120 211 0.86 1.76 1.349
Radeon RX 480 4GB 271.69 150 224 0.82 1.49 1.413
Radeon RX 480 8GB 326.30 150 256 0.78 1.71 1.485
Radeon RX 550 107.86 50 112 1.04 2.24 1.122
Radeon RX 560 135.16 80 112 0.83 1.4 1.406
Radeon RX 570 230.73 150 224 0.97 1.49 1.2
Radeon RX 580 4GB 271.69 185 256 0.94 1.38 1.236
Radeon RX 580 8GB 312.65 185 256 0.82 1.38 1.423
</code></pre>
<p>Everything there's pretty self-explanatory except for the far right column. It's an estimated TCO per unit memory speed per year including cost of power in Ontario. So, you can probably just ignore it if you don't live in Ontario. In fact, you can probably ignore it even if you do.</p>
<p>Anyway, the GB/s/W is the dominating factor when it comes to electrical bills. By that measure, the Radeon RX 550 is winning, but you'd need quite a few of those in a single system to really reap the benefits.</p>
<p>In the rest of my build, I'm assuming that mining throughput scales more or less linearly with additional GPUs. If this is true, communication between GPUs isn't necessary (i.e. crossfire support unneeded) and it doesn't matter too much what the PCIE bus speed is. I'm assuming linear scaling because I think this is how it works on the network at large, with eth generation scaling linearly with number of miners. Is that a sound assumption?</p>
<p>Anyway, to those who have actually done this in real life, am I at all close here? Am I missing anything critical?</p>
<p>BTW, this is the script I used to generate that table:</p>
<pre><code>#!/usr/bin/env python
# constants for doing conversions.
hour = 60*60
year = 365.25*24*hour
kilo = 1000
watt = 1
CAD = 1
USD = 1.36529*CAD
# Data is from Wikipedia.
# https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_10_series
# https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_Radeon_400_series
# https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_Radeon_500_series
card = [
'GeForce GTX 1050', 'GeForce GTX 1050 Ti', 'GeForce GTX 1060 3GB',
'GeForce GTX 1060 6GB', 'GeForce GTX 1070', 'GeForce GTX 1080',
'GeForce GTX 1080 Ti', 'NVIDIA TITAN X', 'NVIDIA TITAN Xp',
'Radeon RX 460', 'Radeon RX 470', 'Radeon RX 480 4GB',
'Radeon RX 480 8GB', 'Radeon RX 550', 'Radeon RX 560',
'Radeon RX 570', 'Radeon RX 580 4GB', 'Radeon RX 580 8GB',
]
price = [
109*USD, 139*USD, 199*USD, 249*USD, 379*USD,
599*USD, 699*USD, 1200*USD, 1200*USD,
139*USD, 179*USD, 199*USD, 239*USD, 79*USD,
99*USD, 169*USD, 199*USD, 229*USD,
]
watts = [
75, 75, 120, 120, 150, 180, 250, 250, 250,
75, 120, 150, 150, 50, 80, 150, 185, 185,
]
gflops = [
1862, 2138, 3935, 4372, 6463, 8873, 11340, 10974, 12150,
2150, 4940, 5834, 5834, 1211, 2611, 5095, 6175, 6175,
]
memspeed = [
112, 112, 224, 224, 256, 352, 484, 480, 547.7,
112, 211, 224, 256, 112, 112, 224, 256, 256,
]
# http://www.ontario-hydro.com/current-rates
powerprice = (12*0.087 + 6*0.18 + 6*0.132)/24 * CAD/(kilo*watt*hour)
# Expected lifetime of GPU before resale. PCIE4 is coming out in two years,
# probably destroying all of this.
lifetime = 2*year
# Expected percent depreciation of GPU's resale value after above lifetime has
# elapsed. Optimistic?
depreciation = .2
print('{:20}{:>10}{:>10}{:>10}{:>10}{:>10}{:>15}'.format(
'card', 'price', 'watts', 'Gflops',
'Gflops/$', 'Gflops/W', '$/Tflops/year'))
for i in range(len(card)):
gpd = gflops[i]/price[i]
gpw = gflops[i]/watts[i]
# Average total cost of ownership per year per teraflops of computing
# power, including cost of power if for some reason running at full tilt
# all year round.
dpT = 1000/gpd
tco = dpT*(depreciation/lifetime + powerprice) * year
print('{:20}{:10.2f}{:10}{:10}{:10.2f}{:10.3}{:15.4}'.format(
card[i], price[i], watts[i], gflops[i], gpd, gpw, tco))
print()
print('{:20}{:>10}{:>10}{:>10}{:>10}{:>10}{:>15}'.format(
'card', 'price', 'watts', 'GB/s',
'GB/s/$', 'GB/s/W', '$/(GB/s)/year'))
for i in range(len(card)):
gpd = memspeed[i]/price[i]
gpw = memspeed[i]/watts[i]
dpg = 1/gpd
tco = dpg*(depreciation/lifetime + powerprice) * year
print('{:20}{:10.2f}{:10}{:10}{:10.2f}{:10.3}{:15.4}'.format(
card[i], price[i], watts[i], memspeed[i], gpd, gpw, tco))
</code></pre>
|
a good ethereum mining GPU
|
<p>Alongside the option that @Jeff mentioned, There is the <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/BlackBerry-Priv-STV100-1-Unlocked-GSM-4G-LTE-Android-18MP-Camera-Phone-Black-/322378018328?epid=611894718&hash=item4b0f3a2e18:g:DHsAAOSw~OVWy3dT" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Blackberry Priv</a> for only $219 new off eBay US.</p>
<p>This phone's bloatware is about as existent as Motorola phones. Also, defining bloatware for blackberry devices is somewhat complex. These devices do not show bloat in any form such as Samsung, instead the bloat is really slight overlay tweaks, which can be customised to a certain extent.</p>
<p>Performance wise, the Priv is one of the best phones I have had the pleasure to use, It just feels so slick and interruption free. It sports NFC too.</p>
<p>One benefit is the lovely screen, and QWERTY keyboard that sits behind the screen, sliding up and down, and doesn't really add to the psychological feeling of bulkiness. <a href="https://uk.blackberry.com/smartphones/priv-by-blackberry/specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The phone is only 9.4mm thick</a>, actually .1 mm slimmer than the Moto G5.</p>
<p>I would definitly recommend the phone, and even more recommend trying one out if you can. </p>
|
7363
|
2017-05-12T04:48:59.767
|
|android|smartphones|nfc|
|
<p>I'm looking to buy a smartphone in the U.S. that has NFC and clean Android (i.e., no bloatware). I'm also looking for a phone that is reasonably priced and that has a decent processor. I know these specs are rather vague, but I was thinking something along the lines of the moto G5. (Hopefully that will make it a bit clearer.)</p>
<p>Unsurprisingly, my first impulse was to buy the moto G5, until I found out that for some reason it doesn't come with NFC <em>only</em> in the US. So now I'm trying to find similar phones with similar prices and specs, which is hard because the Moto G really does a very nice job of making good affordable phones.</p>
<p>So far the only thing that came close were the new Nokia phones that were announced, but I still don't know the price and the specs don't seem to be as good as the Moto G specs. Also, although it should be released in the second trimester of 2017, no news as to a US release date.</p>
<p>Cheers.</p>
<p>P.S.: Another alternative is to somehow buy a Moto G5 with NFC in the U.S. via some non-shady path, but I'm unaware of how to do that.</p>
|
Budget phone with NFC
|
<p>The upgrade is fine; the 8400 GS appears to have great reviews on Amazon.</p>
<p>However, with an increase in use of cloud services, I doubt that the 1 TB of space will be used at all; maybe 100 GB at the most, since you said that what he will be doing will be pretty much just browsing. Thus, I recommend getting a small 128 GB SSD, which go for around $55. SSDs make Windows considerably snappy, as for many computers the hard drive is the bottleneck for loading web pages. There won't be any complaining of slowness ;)</p>
|
7369
|
2017-05-13T05:47:51.087
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I'm helping an older coworker upgrade his PC, he has a HP Compaq with the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Pentium 4, 3.2 GHz</li>
<li>72 GB HDD</li>
<li>1.5 GB RAM</li>
<li>HP 09F0H motherboard, Intel 945G Express chipset</li>
</ul>
<p>He just needs something he can use for day-to-day browsing and the occasional HD movie. Budget is very tight, at CAD $150.</p>
<p>I plan to buy the following for him:</p>
<ul>
<li>EVGA 8400GS graphics ($38): Just something simple for HD video playback</li>
<li>Seagate Barracuda 1 TB hard drive ($64)</li>
<li>4GB RAM ($37)</li>
</ul>
<p>I originally thought to upgrade the CPU, but the motherboard is incompatible with modern CPUs. To upgrade the motherboard + CPU would practically use up the entire budget, with unusable RAM and storage space. I chose to get a graphics card because the Pentium 4 seems to struggle with Youtube videos even at 720p.</p>
<p><strong>Would this be a good allocation of the budget, or is there any better ideas?</strong></p>
<p>P.S. I've had bad experiences with used parts so that's not an option. I don't want to risk his limited budget on potentially faulty components.</p>
|
Can a graphics card revive an old pentium 4 PC?
|
<p>I have the <a href="http://dacuda.com/pocketscan/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dacuda Pocketscan</a> which as previously a successful Kickstarter project.</p>
<p>It fits most of your requirements. Most, because being a hand-sized item, the power button is on the small side, about Pez candy size. The begin/end scan button is the larger round button on the top. Results are good, although most of my scans with it are newspaper quality and picks up the dark on the flip side of the paper. It's not the scanner that's poor quality, it's the paper.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jW7nq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jW7nq.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>This is the result of a scan of a day-to-day single page calendar, with better quality paper. </p>
<p>When the scanner is powered up, if the i-Device is turned on and the app installed, it takes the signal and asks permission to start, reducing the need to find the app on the device. Once permitted, pressing the button on the scan device begins the scan.</p>
<p>It does require reasonably steady hands and the ability to recognize overlap areas which are used to register previous passes of the scanner.</p>
<p>The age of the user and tiny button may disqualify this item.</p>
<p>What is objectionable with the item you linked as an example?</p>
|
7371
|
2017-05-13T14:42:08.433
|
|scanner|
|
<p>I want to help an eldery man (>70) who wants to send scans of his incoming mail to his son. </p>
<p>I'm thinking of an hand scanner (something like: <a href="https://www.amazon.de/Easypix-Easy-scan-A4-Scanner-schwarz/dp/B0038JQIF6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.de/Easypix-Easy-scan-A4-Scanner-schwarz/dp/B0038JQIF6</a>). A desktop scanner is not an option, due to space limitations, and limited mobility of the man.</p>
<p>Main criteria:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Cable less, (Bluetooth)</p></li>
<li><p>Direct interaction with IPad via Bluetooth. There should be an app where the man can online see the result of the scan. </p></li>
<li><p>Simple GUI of app. Main features requried are: Scan Document. Safe to file. Send by email. More complex options (like dpi, OCR, post processing) are not required, and should not result in some complex GUI.</p></li>
<li><p>Not too small displays or bottons on the device. shall be useable also if the eyesight is not perfect anymore.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Not so important:</p>
<ul>
<li>Scan quality (dpi)</li>
<li>OCR</li>
</ul>
<p>Any Idea?</p>
|
portable hand scanner works with ipad (for eldery person)
|
<p>For cheap solution I use a wifi router well supported by dd-wrt alternative firmware.
<a href="http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> you can find supported models database.</p>
<p>For more advanced, trouble-safe solution I use Ubiquiti UniFi - the AC-Lite model is really good.</p>
|
7372
|
2017-05-13T15:04:54.650
|
|wifi|router|
|
<p>I understand that there's no 100% secure firmware. But there are some brands that regularly update their firmware to fix discovered vulnerabilities. What brands of WiFi routers (or specific models) are considered to be secure, stable and provide regular firmware updates? Or maybe even have open-source firmware? I'm looking for a router for home usage, not an enterprise solution.</p>
|
What WiFi router brands or models are considered to be secure?
|
<p>Measure the width of the HDD. If it is about 2.75 inches then it is a 2.5" HDD and so a 2.5" SSD will fit.</p>
<p>Some SSDs are thinner than some HDDs so they come with a spacer. Any non-electrically-conductive packing would do if you find the SSD is not held firmly, but I do not expect that to be a problem as they normally use four screws to hold them in.</p>
|
7385
|
2017-05-15T14:41:04.093
|
|hard-disk|
|
<p>I'm trying to replace an HHD for an SSD on a " MSI CX61 2QC-1654US" but when I go online to buy for ssd they all look super big. I was doing a little research and there is something called Caddy to substitute the dvd but I don't want to go without dvds. So how can I find a ssd that fits my laptop? I uploaded a pic so you can see how small it is (m... That didn't sound right... Hahaha) anyway.. please give me a little help, I'm doing my bachelor in Computer science now but I have no idea about hardware and I'd like to learn. Thank you</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YsuWf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YsuWf.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
Question about replacing hard drive on laptop
|
<blockquote>
<p>I was given multiple answers explaining how it can't be done for various technical reasons. I don't care! Tell me how it can be done, or better, how it is done.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Not gonna get far with an attitude like that, but I guess I'll tell you again that what you're looking for doesn't exist. It's impractical to a level where trying to produce and market a product that fills your requirements would sell one unit, and that unit would be sold to you. There is no keyboard that has dynamic displays that would change in response to stimulus from the Linux OS. Keyboard manufacturers have trouble getting little LED screens for "gaming" keyboards to play nicely with AAA software titles on Windows; thus, there's definitely nothing that exists and even if it did you'd have to build all those interactions into your Linux distro yourself. Here are the options that I see available to you:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Get a programmable board with different presets of keybindings. You may have a tough time finding something that works for you though, because a lot of these boards tend to be smaller and thus the multiple inputs per key scale as the number of keys gets smaller. If you look at an Anne Pro mechanical keyboard, for example, it's got 4 preset key combinations and one of those can be programmed as any layout you like. It's also got a ton of commands per key because it's a 60% size board. It is wireless but it's bluetooth, which I know you said you didn't want. Unfortunately almost all wireless keyboards that aren't $20 use bluetooth, especially the ones with the kind of programmable features you're looking for.</p></li>
<li><p>Get two full size programmable boards and program one board for all of the primary key inputs and then the other board for all the secondary inputs and then buy custom keycaps for each board with only the symbol you want printed on them.</p></li>
</ol>
<p>It sounds like you "need" option 2 because this issue is driving you nuts, and I get that. It sounds like what you "want" is something like option number 1, but that's never going to fulfill all of the standards you want to meet. You're either going to have to make a compromise here or get creative beyond my capabilities. Best of luck.</p>
|
7391
|
2017-05-17T07:13:40.887
|
|linux|wireless|keyboards|ergonomics|e-ink|
|
<p>Is there a PC keyboard for Linux, that <strong>ALWAYS</strong> prints <strong>THE SAME SINGLE</strong> character that is displayed on the key being pressed?</p>
<p>The core (the X in <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/66377/what-is-the-xy-problem">XY problem</a>) problem of mine is, that</p>
<ul>
<li>after pressing 'z', the 'y' appears and vice versa</li>
<li>pressing (most) keys is often a hit-n-miss, what appears on the actual display often differs from the image on the key being pressed</li>
<li>at least two non-ASCII characters are shown on each key and even more possibilities for the character to pop up after pressing it emerge, when considering layouts</li>
<li>more characters per key = smaller size per character = harder to read (more so for the visually impaired)</li>
<li>keys for the characters with accents are merged with the keys for numbers</li>
<li>keys for the characters with accents are absent</li>
<li>nobody knows when CAPS LOCK is activated (no, a LED is not enough, I don't desire to check it each time I'm to press a key, which reduces the is-capital-problem to hit-n-miss)</li>
<li>nobody knows when NUM LOCK is NOT activated, in fact, often it isn't, which makes me wonder who could ever profit from a disabled NUM LOCK</li>
</ul>
<p>I was given multiple answers explaining how it can't be done for various technical reasons. I don't care! Tell me how it can be done, or better, how it is done.</p>
<p>What I'm implying (the Y in XY problem) is, the physical images on the keys should <strong>always</strong> resemble <strong>the character to appear on the screen</strong>. Obviously, one might think of a huge keyboard with everything but the kitchen sink, but that's absurd. </p>
<p>For one, I'm sure it can be solved by e-ink keys and I'm sure there are many more choices out there. Maybe the keyboard itself could have an OS to interact with host OS as an intermediary, an adapter. Maybe some sensoric feedback, some integrated touchscreen, some gestures, anything.</p>
<p>Provided a similar product exists:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>If I ain't asking too much, could it NOT destroy my carpal tunnel
while doing its job?</p></li>
<li><p>If I still ain't asking much, could it be wireless? Bluetooth would probably be pushing it. I'd do with a dongle that gets accidentally destroyed, making the whole keyboard effectively and irreversibly unusable.</p></li>
</ul>
|
Deterministic keyboard
|
<p>I am using the same thing on Linux, but it should not matter. I just install whole system on USB flash and setup in BIOS to boot from USB first.</p>
<p>Now it finds the USB on start, boots from it, sets the whole system, connects to net and does the usuall daily tasks. I can connect remotly, setup encription and connect internal hard drives encrypted, if I need so. </p>
<p>Those internal HDDs contains just5 encrypted data, nothing else, the USB flash contains the full system and can be used to rescue any USB bootable computer (nearly any nowadays).</p>
<p>As flash is not good for too many writes, I load as much as possible of the system to memory at start and I set the logs to RAM disc entirly, so th USB can be read-only. Takes more time to boot (USB is always slower than native connection), but I do not care. I can get the system anywhere else leave the computer with encrypted data discs only, not being able to boot. I can use the flash on any other computer to get my system working.</p>
<p>In Windows case it would mean to install the windows on the USB only (or start with some rescue flash and expand its content, then maybe copy it to USB disc. The disc probably needs to be market "bootable" and you need to set the computer BIOS to boot first from remote media - either as default option, or as backup option and do not make internal disc bootable, or just press propper key on boot to select boot media from list of aviable devices.</p>
<p>As I do not use Windows for many years (from when XP was hot new), I cannot provide step to step instruction, but maybe Windows are not so bad, that they would not enable "rescue system" to lay on USB media and to be customized ...</p>
|
7396
|
2017-05-18T04:35:18.523
|
|windows|
|
<p>You might be thinking that I want to connect my external hard drive using SATA cables as an internal one....But no, that's what I don't want to do. Is there any way that I can connect an external hard drive using an USB connection and configure it using some software perhaps, which will enable me to use it as an internal one, so that I can move my operating system (Windows 10) and Applications to my external hard drive and use the internal one for files such as documents- storage? Any idea how to do that!?</p>
|
How can I use an external hard drive as an internal one virtually?
|
<p>The answer is that it depends. If the one processor is faster than another, you can definitely undervolt the processor, or underclock it to slow it down. It would be dependent on how much you undervolt or underclock the processor, however. You might also want to note that you would want to make sure that your motherboard can support overclocking so you can ensure that you can actually mess around with the processor states and voltages.</p>
<p>Also note that the <a href="https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/34766/how-does-power-consumption-vary-with-the-processor-frequency-in-a-typical-comput">power consumption scales linearly with frequency and quadratically with voltage</a>. So you can also reduce the frequency on a cpu state to lower power consumption as well, but it is more effective to decrease voltage because it has a squared relationship with power consumption.</p>
|
7423
|
2017-05-24T08:33:30.137
|
|processor|power|
|
<p>I am looking for a low wattage CPU with relative high performance. I read on several places, that underclocking or undervolting cheaper normal processors (e.g. Xeon e3-1230v3) can have the same result as buying a rare and more expensive L or T version (e.g. Xeon e3-1230Lv3) of the same processor. Is this true, or should I buy the more expensive low wattage version?</p>
|
Is underclocked Xeon e3-1230v3 the same as e3-1230Lv3?
|
<p>If you need the best specs under $900 than i will recommend you this one <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01MR82G0W" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR82G0W?ie=UTF8</a>
Acer VX 15
i5-7300HQ processor
16GB DDR4 RAM
256GB SSD
Windows 10 OS
15.6 inch FHD IPS display
4GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti GPU..
you can easily upgrade its storage but you have to Acer support for HDD upgrade complimentary kit so they can send you....
The second one which i like the most is Dell Inspiron 7567 but if you are going to buy this one than i suggest you to buy it with IPS panel display instead of TN one that's what makes the laptop <a href="https://laptopjar.com/best-laptops-for-graphic-design/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">best graphic design laptop</a> ........</p>
|
7436
|
2017-05-26T07:12:09.133
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I need a laptop for graphic design under 900$ (can go up to 1000$)</p>
<p>MUST HAVE
1. NOT ASUS
2. must run photoshop, illustrator, indesign, ect. fast and smooth.
3. 14" screen with viable resolution</p>
<p>added value, but not must:
1. light weight
2. ssd</p>
<p>If "must have" can't be satisfied under 900$, please give the lowest price that does satisfy those requirements</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
|
I need a recommendation for a cheap laptop for graphic design
|
<p>I accidentally found the answer to my own question. What I am looking for suddenly happened to appear in my Amazon recommendations (even though I haven't searched for anything like this on Amazon), and found you can find a lot of electric door locks by searching "open frame type solenoid" including <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AOCAETQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>, for example.</p>
|
7446
|
2017-05-27T19:19:19.327
|
|arduino|
|
<p>I am not sure "deadbolt" is the correct term for what I am looking for. I am searching for the metal piece on the side of doors that extends to lock it, but one that can be controlled electronically (with Arduino).</p>
<p>The thing on the right of <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyt6pUXYY6A" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this video</a> is exactly what I want, but I can't seem to find anything like it.</p>
<p>Does anyone know where I could find one of these, or at least what this would be called?</p>
<p>I am also open to other setups to lock a door, but the part I described above is preferable. It doesn't need to be very secure or anything; I mostly just want to make use of an RFID scanner.</p>
|
Electronic Deadbolt for Door
|
<p>The Intel Pentium G4560 is a castrated i3 and hardly slower, maybe 10%. The Z-Board is a waste of money, especially if you do not overclock.
RAM seems legit on first glance but you lose dual channel which needs 2 RAM sticks to get slightly more performance.
Don't buy cards for around 200€ or more with only 3GB Video RAM, bad choice, rather go AMD with 8GB (470/570, 480/580) or Nvidia 6GB 1060.
You have to check if your stuff fits in the case.</p>
<p>Budget? The goal is to build a gaming PC, right? What games? Other tasks which the PC has to master? An SSD instead of an old HDD would greatly reduce all of your loading and startup times, makes the PC much more responsive but gives you (almost) nothing for gaming.
Maximum and desired resolution (which is mostly GPU work)? Do you have some old hardware left? Etc. etc. Google and other tech/PC sites are a major help if you search a bit more, the forums there might also have guides which might answer your questions.</p>
<p>Edit: compatible? Seems so (if it fits into the case which it probably does but I don't know). Ahh and the mentioned i3-like pentium costs like half of the i3 or maybe even less.</p>
|
7451
|
2017-05-28T10:13:15.843
|
|pc|compatibility|
|
<p>I'm a first time computer builder and I want to know is every thing in this build compatible. -thanks</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Intel - Core i3-7100 kabylake 3.9GHz Dual-Core Processor with stock cooler </p></li>
<li><p>MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard </p></li>
<li><p>Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory </p></li>
<li><p>Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive </p></li>
<li><p>EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB GAMING Video Card </p></li>
<li><p>Corsair - SPEC-ALPHA (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case </p></li>
<li><p>EVGA - 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply</p></li>
</ul>
|
Is this PC build OK and compatible
|
<p>I found this when researching an answer to my question: Sony Digital Paper
Sony DPT-RP1/B Digital Paper <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B072DXXXN1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072DXXXN1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RXeozb5XNDYTN</a></p>
<p>It has most everything I envisioned except the camera. The price is ludicrous to me though. </p>
|
7452
|
2017-05-28T14:20:21.663
|
|tablet|portable|
|
<p>I am looking for a cheap tablet that I can use with a stylus for primarily marking up pdfs. I spend a lot of my time doing architectural redlines and having to use a mouse to draw boxes and arrows and annotations is a waste of time, but so is printing out documents, marking them up and then scanning them back in to send to somebody. </p>
<ol>
<li><p>Ideally, it would have a decent amount of RAM so it would not have to reload sections of the PDF on larger documents. </p></li>
<li><p>I would require a fine point stylus rather than the ones like the older iPad styluses that were like trying to draw with a sausage. </p></li>
<li><p>A camera would be nice for going to site visits but is, by no means, a necessity. </p></li>
<li><p>I'm not married to any operating system, the functionality is the larger concern. Windows would be nice because that is what my company uses so I could use their software license pool for the PDF software but every OS has something similar. </p></li>
<li><p>Size is not a major concern. Probably at least a 4x6 screen so I am not constantly trying to zoom in and out of the document but beyond that, I can manage. </p></li>
</ol>
|
Is there an inexpensive tablet with a stylus that can handle large PDFs for markup?
|
<p>Logitech MXAir. I've been using mine since roughly 2007 and I love it. 8 programmable buttons and a touch surface for delightful scrolling. They don't make it anymore, so you'd have to get it off eBay.</p>
|
7453
|
2017-05-28T21:21:32.377
|
|mice|
|
<p>I'm looking for an input device that mimics how the Wii/Wii-U operate using the sensor-bar.</p>
<p>I need it as a secondary mouse. So, a pointer of sorts that isn't just a clicker would be nice. Something that will let me move my mouse without having to actually drag it on something material.</p>
<p>Not sure if anything like that exists though.</p>
|
Input device that mimics wiimote to use as mouse?
|
<p>I am not from India, and INR prices don't translate very well in my mind, but <a href="https://www.flipkart.com/acer-aspire-vx-core-i7-7th-gen-8-gb-1-tb-hdd-128-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-4-graphics-15-notebook/p/itmeshbcnh7fnhz8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> seems about in your price range.</p>
<p>I am not sure that this would be available to ship to you (since I am not from India), but it seems that Flipkart is pretty big out there, so hopefully it is.</p>
<p>Anyways, this is considerably less powerful than the laptop you posted, but seems to also be somewhat cheaper. The CPU is the same, but the GPU is a 1050 (not Ti) instead of a 1060. It has 8GB of RAM instead of 16GB. I have a laptop with similar specifications to the one listed (better only in terms of RAM), and it performs very well. If you want to game in 1080p without anything like VR and don't always need the absolute highest settings, this should be adequate.</p>
<p>There is a <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01N12YZ7B" rel="nofollow noreferrer">US version</a> of this notebook that has a better GPU for a really good price, but I was unable to locate this on any Indian site.</p>
<p>Good luck finding something that works for you.</p>
|
7461
|
2017-05-29T19:06:58.793
|
|laptop|graphics-cards|gaming|
|
<p>I have been looking to buy an GTX 10 series laptops, for the last month here in India, I need a laptop which would be able to play games on Med-High settings in the upcoming 4+ years.</p>
<p>I have browsed Amazon.com and many products are not available in India.</p>
<p>What I have in mind is:</p>
<p>2170 USD(140000 INR)
HP OMEN - 17 inch - i7 7th Gen - GTX 1060TX - 256 SSD
<a href="http://www.hpshopping.in/hp_omen_-_17-w249tx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.hpshopping.in/hp_omen_-_17-w249tx</a></p>
<p>1550 USD(100000 INR)
HP OMEN - 15.6 inch - i7 7th Gen - GTX 1050Ti - 256 SSD
<a href="http://www.hpshopping.in/omen_by_hp_15-ax252tx_laptop_pc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.hpshopping.in/omen_by_hp_15-ax252tx_laptop_pc</a> </p>
<p>I will probably get a monitor later, If I get the 15 inch one.</p>
<p>Which one would be the best, Also feel free to suggest some other choices, but I feel these are best within this range.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
|
Gaming laptop to buy?
|
<p>Found this cheap device which acts as a bridge, AP, router - all in one and is configurable with static ip, dns and gateway - </p>
<p><a href="http://www.edimax.com/edimax/mw/cufiles/files/download/manual/BR-6428NS_V4/BR-6428nS_V4_User_Manual_English_EN.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.edimax.com/edimax/mw/cufiles/files/download/manual/BR-6428NS_V4/BR-6428nS_V4_User_Manual_English_EN.pdf</a></p>
|
7500
|
2017-06-04T12:35:42.533
|
|router|
|
<p>is there a device which converts the incoming lan signals into wifi signals? </p>
<p>The apartment only has a fixed network ip with a predetermined gateway and DNS. One needs to give this static ip, netmask and gateway in the network configuration of the computer and it works.</p>
<p>But I would like to use smart phones to access the network. Hence the static settings should be done in the device ( maybe it is is called an lan to wifi adaptor ) itself . Ofcourse, I do not want an expensive ADSL or DSL because I do not need the modem functionality.</p>
<p>Also, it would be great to know how this network device works i.e how does it give the IP addresses to the connected devices - may be using NAT?</p>
<p>Help with links what I should look for, would be appreciated.</p>
<p>Edit 05 June, 2017:</p>
<p>I have a FritzBox 7240, which according to this manual ( German ) <a href="https://avm.de/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-7240/wissensdatenbank/publication/show/106_FRITZ-Box-fuer-Betrieb-mit-anderem-Router-einrichten/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://avm.de/service/fritzbox/fritzbox-7240/wissensdatenbank/publication/show/106_FRITZ-Box-fuer-Betrieb-mit-anderem-Router-einrichten/</a>, should be able to fulfill my needs. But the problem there is, that the static IP provided by the external router is class B ( 134.x.x.x ). If I enter this static IP into the FritzBox's Routers configuration and activate the DHCP server of the Fritzbox to provide IPs ( Class C - 192.168.178.x ) that would distribute the IP's to the connected devices, the Fritz box complains a conflict between the Class B incoming IP and the class C Fritzbox's DHCP IP. </p>
<p>So, I have left with no other choice, but to buy some other device like an Access Point.</p>
|
LAN to WIFI Adaptor
|
<p>One manufacturer that offers Dolby Atmos headphones with above/below 360° sound is <a href="https://www.plantronics.com/ca/en/features/dolby-atmos" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Plantronics</a> with their RIG 800LX, 600LX and 400LX. Truth be told, Atmos works with <em>any</em> stereo headphones but it's bound to be a bit better with headphones that are <a href="https://www.techradar.com/news/weve-tried-out-plantronics-dolby-atmos-exclusive-headset-heres-how-it-works" rel="nofollow noreferrer">licensed by Dolby</a>.</p>
<p>Another option is 7.1 headphones, with not just two stereo drivers but several.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5ThO.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5ThO.png" alt="Razer Tiamat"></a></p>
<p>Razer <a href="https://www.razer.com/ca-en/gaming-audio/razer-tiamat-71-v2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Tiamat 7.1 V2</a> delivers surround sound through 10 discrete drivers – 5 in each ear cup. A similar idea is used by the Asus <a href="https://www.asus.com/ca-en/Headphones-Headsets/ROG-Centurion/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ROG Centurion</a> 7.1 gaming headsets, with five discrete neodymium magnets in each ear cup.</p>
|
7501
|
2017-06-04T13:39:48.677
|
|gaming|audio|headphones|
|
<p>I've been playing games for a long time now and most sound systems or headsets I've had, have the problem of not being able to differentiate up from down. They may give you the info of where the sound is coming from in a 360 degree circle around you, but not in a sphere.</p>
<p>Anyway, that's what I want, I want to be able to tell whether a sound is coming from above or below or neither (same elevation). I've looked at 7.1 headsets but they have the front, rear and side speakers. I haven't been able to find anything else.</p>
|
Is there a headset/headphones that can differentiate up from down?
|
<p><a href="https://www.pine64.org/devices/single-board-computers/rock64/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pine RockPro 64</a> now exists with a 4Gb option, as does the Raspberry Pi 4</p>
|
7503
|
2017-06-04T16:11:05.530
|
|memory|raspberry-pi|energy-efficient|
|
<p>Are there any arm SOCs with large mounts of ram such as 16Gb ? Several phones have come out with 8Gb ram, so I expected the same developments to happen in the SOC sector. I believe there are ARM based data centre servers with high ram loads too. Why is this the case, is it due to the cost and the market these devices are aimed at?</p>
|
SOC with more than 4Gb ram?
|
<p>I recommend you get the Jaybird X3. These earbuds come with multiple tips and fins in the box to make sure they stay in your ears. The X3s are wireless and can last up to 8 hours on a charge. The audio sounds great, there is a lot of bass and it can be tweaked with the Jaybird Mysound app to suit your needs. These earbuds are a bit expensive at 130 USD on Amazon but well worth the price.</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01M7NCT5O" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7NCT5O</a></p>
<p>Just in case you like your specs.
<a href="https://www.jaybirdsport.com/en-us/x3-bluetooth-headphones/details-specs.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.jaybirdsport.com/en-us/x3-bluetooth-headphones/details-specs.html</a></p>
|
7513
|
2017-06-05T16:14:12.203
|
|wireless|earphones|
|
<p>I want to know which earbud is best suited for dynamic sports, imagine gymnastics handstand or high bar jumping.
the characteristics that i'm looking for is high-quality, durability and stability(something that doesn't drop)</p>
|
Recommendation for Wireless earbud suitable for dynamic sports
|
<p><a href="https://thehomeserverblog.com/home-servers/diy-19-server-rack-for-home-servers-and-or-esxi-vmware-lab/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://thehomeserverblog.com/home-servers/diy-19-server-rack-for-home-servers-and-or-esxi-vmware-lab/</a></p>
<p>Material List for D.I.Y. Server Rack</p>
<pre><code>2 Pair of 20U Space Rack Rails — $45 (eBay)
4 2x4s – $10.00 (Lowe’s)
48 3″ Sheetrock Screws — $4.58 (Lowe’s)
20 1-1/4″ Sheetrock Screws — $4.58 (Lowe’s)
Set of 4 2″ High Capacity Rubber Locking Plate Casters – $15.99 (Amazon)
Minwax Wood Finish, Red Oak 215 (had some)
</code></pre>
<p>Total Cost: $80.15</p>
<p>Tool List for D.I.Y. Server Rack</p>
<pre><code>Saw (Circular, Table, or Radial; I have a Sliding, Compound Radial Saw)
Cordless Drill (Mine: B&D 18v)
Phillips Head bit (magnetic is a plus)
Drill bit (for pilot holes for the screw)
Paint brush for Minwax
</code></pre>
<p>Steps for D.I.Y. Home Server Rack</p>
<pre><code>Make cuts on 2x4s (see above for cuts)
Assemble top and bottom “square frames”
Attach uprights to bottom frame (use a square to make sure these are square/level)
Attach Rails, making sure they are flush again the bottom frame, and square along the edge.
Attach top square frame
Stain (this is optional, but easy and makes it look nice)
Attach casters to bottom of server rack.
</code></pre>
|
7525
|
2017-06-08T08:22:10.870
|
|pc|server|
|
<p>Here's what I need to do:
I want to have multiple desktop/laptop PCs stored in minimal space
I should be able to attach a peripheral device to each PC.
Should be able to access the PCs easily to attach/detach peripheral devices
I would like to use a multiplexer to access each PC with the same keyboard+mouse+monitor so I save on monitor space(and wires, and cost).
It should be expandable vertically because I don't have desk space to expand horizontally.</p>
<p>Think of it as a Server rack, but I am not going to use individual racks. I want similar compactness but with individual PCs.
The cabinet should be secure(ie. Cabinet should be lockable) </p>
<p>I have searched for cabinets that allow me to store whole PCs but it doesn't look like this is easily available. Anyone who knows something that matches? or have build such cabinets?</p>
|
How can I create a rack with PCs
|
<p>You wouldn't by any change be taking on developing apps for iOS -- the iPhone, iPad? I'm asking because I've personally only heard of Objective C being used for iOS apps. This is important, because if are then you <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/a/9570529/2412477%20%22See%20for%20yourself%22."><strong><em>must have</em></strong> a Macintosh</a>.</p>
<p>If I'm wrong, ignore my answer and carry on.</p>
<p>Look, my original answer was deleted because it wasn't recommending a specific product. I understand those are the rules of this forum, but if my above assumptions are correct, them the information provided in my answer is vital, since buying anything else than a Macintosh (like the accepted answer recommends) is misleading and will only result in you wasting your money! I'm not a Mac person, but here, because rules, is a randomly <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Macbook-Air-A1466-13-i5-5250U-1-6-GHz-8GB-128GB-SSD-Early-2015-/282515650467?hash=item41c73eb7a3:g:WwsAAOSwKflZOW03" rel="nofollow noreferrer">recommended specific product</a> that'll actually let you compile and run Objective C as you required. You want at least 8GB of RAM.</p>
<p>On a side note: You may be interested in knowing that all iOS developers (that I know of!) are moving away from Objective C and switching to the Swift programming language.</p>
|
7554
|
2017-06-12T11:43:32.753
|
|laptop|ssd|performance|web-development|game-development|
|
<p>I'm looking to get a laptop for coding which I hope to use for the next 2/3 years. </p>
<p>I have a tight budget of roughly about 700 dollars and am not looking for anything too fancy(or to low at the end of the spectrum too) I'm a beginner coder but looking to pour a lot of time into coding(starting with objective C) and your opinions would help a lot!! </p>
<p>Thanks for any help in advance! :)</p>
|
Laptop for coding
|
<p>While I could not find the ability specific to the wifi network for the RT-AC3200 that @gabygg4 recommended. I was able to determine that you can do this using <a href="https://www.asus.com/support/faq/1013333" rel="nofollow noreferrer">adaptive qos</a> on this router.</p>
<p>In fact on most of the RT series routers you can do this with.</p>
<p>Going this route will be a little more cumbersome if you have a client that needs to test on two separate bandwidths back to back. To simplify that process you could simply set up some .reg files to change the mac address on the computer with a double click.</p>
|
7567
|
2017-06-14T20:42:07.297
|
|wifi|networking|router|
|
<p>I would like to know if such device exists and what are your models recommendations if so.</p>
<p>The problem I'm trying to solve is to create multiple Wi-Fi networks each of then with limited band speed. That is because in my development group we need to test apps with different speed scenarios both for download and upload capabilities. </p>
<p>With such device I would create something like:</p>
<pre><code>WiFi Network 1 - 1 Mbps download speed
128 Kbps upload speed
WiFi Network 2 - 56 Kbps download speed
28 Kbps upload speed
WiFi Network 3 - 1 Gbps download speed
128 Mbps upload speed
...
</code></pre>
<p>If such device does not exist (yet) what would be your recommendations for a Manageable Router with different Access Points plugged to it?</p>
<p>Like:</p>
<pre><code> Manageable Router 1 (4 network ports):
Port 1: wifi access point 1 (config 1 above)
Port 2: wifi access point 2 (config 2 above)
Port 3: wifi access point 3 (config 3 above)
...
</code></pre>
<p>Thanks for your suggestions.</p>
|
Manageable Router with multiple wifi networks capability
|
<p>You may want to consider the <a href="https://www.microsoft.com/surface/en-us/devices/surface-3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Microsoft Surface 3 LTE</a>. I have one myself, and really like it. I specifically purchased it for it's built-in LTE capability, because I find looping WiFi through a phone or using a dongle awkward. Unfortunately, Surface 3 is no longer available direct from Microsoft - I don't know what the other options in your area are. You mentioned that refurbished or secondary market options are acceptable, so that would be your best bet anyway.</p>
<p>The other key feature is the fact that it runs a real OS, not limited portable-specific OS (like Android or iOS). I wanted to be able to run proper Microsoft Office applications on it, including VBA-scripted macros, which is something the portable versions of applications could not do.</p>
<p>There is a keyboard and pen available. I recommend one or the other, if not both. The keyboard and it's touchpad are surprisingly good for their thinness, and the pen is very nice for when you're walking around holding it in-hand.</p>
<p>I've included the specs here, just in case they drop it from the website, too. If at all possible, you'll want to get the 4 GB RAM/128 GB SSD version:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Dimensions: 10.52 x 7.36 x 0.34 in (267 x 187 x 8.7 mm), 1.37 lbs. (622g)</p></li>
<li><p>Display: 10.8” 1920 x 1280 (214 PPI) 3:2 aspect ratio 10-point multi-touch</p></li>
<li><p>Memory & Storage: 2GB RAM with 64GB storage, 4GB RAM with 128GB storage</p></li>
<li><p>Processor: Quad Core Intel Atom™ x7-Z8700 with Intel HD Graphics</p></li>
<li><p>Sensors: Ambient light sensor, Proximity sensor, Accelerometer, Gyroscope, Magnetometer, GPS in LTE-enabled models</p></li>
<li><p>Ports: Full-size USB 3.0, Mini DisplayPort, Micro SD card reader, Micro USB charging port, Headset jack</p></li>
<li><p>Camera: 3.5MP front-facing, 8.0MP rear-facing camera with autofocus, with 1080p HD video recording</p></li>
<li><p>Battery: Up to 10 hours of video playback</p></li>
<li><p>Audio: Microphone & Speakers built-in</p></li>
<li><p>WiFi: 802.11ac Wi-Fi wireless networking; IEEE 802.11a/b/g/n compatible, Bluetooth 4.0 wireless technology</p></li>
<li><p>LTE: Unlocked SIM (non-AT&T): UMTS/HSPA/HSPA+: 850, 900, 1900, 2100 MHz
4G LTE: 700 (Band 17), 800 (Band 20), 850 (Band 5), 1700 (Band 4), 1800 (Band 3), 1900 (Band 2), 2100 (Band 1), 2600 (Band 7) MHz
oth 4.0</p></li>
</ul>
|
7576
|
2017-06-15T16:04:53.927
|
|laptop|smartphones|tablet|4g|detachable|
|
<p>Those are the requirements:</p>
<ol>
<li>Sim slot for mobile broadband</li>
<li>Detachable keyboard, preferably with additional battery</li>
<li>Good for multimedia/surfing</li>
<li>Weight in tablet config so that woman can hold it for a while without dropping it</li>
</ol>
<p>Idea is to give my wife all-round device that can replace a laptop but will also be easy to pack into a bag and take outdoors for a few hours. I'm UK based so thinking on packing into it Three all-you-can-eat-data sim for mobile phones (not mobile broadband) for cheap internet-on-the-move.</p>
<p>Used item is perfectly fine, so please do not limit yourselves to 2016/2017 models. Price is a factor, but with used item not so much, so let's say £500 is the limit.</p>
<p>I'm perfectly willing to experiment, so chinese slates are ok, too. </p>
<p>I'm having serious problem finding something that will match all criteria, not to mention also reasonably priced. I'm happy to have another look myself if someone points me to a search engine that will reliably filter offers. A lot of sellers will drop a gem like "4G ready" or "Mobile internet compatible" in the description or specs, which means it will work with a dongle, but that's what will not work for me for obvious reasons.</p>
|
2-in-1 phablet/laptop - detachable keyboard, long battery life, 3G/4G sim slot
|
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008B6ONXK" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/M5A99FX-PRO-R2-0-990FX-Motherboard/dp/B008B6ONXK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498491905&sr=8-4&keywords=asus+am3+motherboard</a></p>
<p>This should work fine. Personally I splurged a bit and got one of these: <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008YDJHWM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008YDJHWM/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a></p>
<p>It's a pretty fantastic board, and they've come out with revision 3 since then which has M.2 SSD compatibility. I mean how much you spend depends on your upgrade schedule and whether or not you want to jump to ryzen later on, if you wanted to do that I wouldn't spend a ton on this board as your CPU is getting on in years (I rocked a Phenom II 965 BE until last year, loved that little guy). Both of these boards support my current FX-8350; this is relevant because your CPU's TDP is 125W according to the spec sheet on AMD's website, as opposed to 150W like you stated in your post. The FX-8350 also has a TDP of 125W, so both of these boards should support your CPU.</p>
<p>Careful on your RAM by the way. Whatever board you buy, you need to grab a .pdf of their mobo manual and make sure that your current RAM kit is listed in there for compatibility. Not every RAM kit is manufacturer-tested, so unless you want to end up buying new RAM and waiting another two weeks for shipping after a frustrating Saturday afternoon of troubleshooting, check the literature and save yourself the hassle. Best place to start looking is just to look up your old motherboard, and find the slightly updated version of it. </p>
|
7584
|
2017-06-17T16:08:17.133
|
|motherboard|
|
<p>I have an AMD Phenom II x6 1055t CPU (AM3 socket), and DDR3 RAM. My motherboard can only support CPUs up to 75 watt TDP, and my CPU is 150W.</p>
<p>Please recommend me a motherboard that:</p>
<ul>
<li>Supports a 150W TDP CPU</li>
<li>Uses an AM3 socket</li>
<li>Has DDR3 RAM slots</li>
<li>Costs around $100</li>
</ul>
|
Need AMD motherboard with AM3 socket that can handle more than 75 watt TDP
|
<p>Sparkfun will be more louder as it can provide you with about 85dbA</p>
|
7586
|
2017-06-18T11:13:10.120
|
|speakers|
|
<p>For a hobby project on Raspberry Pi3 I have two options for Speakers</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14023" rel="nofollow noreferrer">sparkfun speaker</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3369" rel="nofollow noreferrer">adafruit speaker</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Which one will be louder?</p>
|
Which mini external speaker has louder output?
|
<p>I would start by saying that, as a person who had little knowledge about building a computer, but ended up doing exactly that, building is definitely the route i would take when building a Virtual Reality capable machine.</p>
<p>Couple of reasons for this:</p>
<ul>
<li>You get exponentially more power for your money.</li>
<li>I personally cannot bear to spend more than necessary, and market pre-built gaming computers generally have a large markup.</li>
</ul>
<p>With that out of the way, Oculus actually have a recommended list of computers <a href="https://www.oculus.com/oculus-ready-pcs/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here on their site</a>. One that sticks out to me in the kind of price range you are mentioning above is the <a href="http://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/desktops-and-all-in-ones/ideacentre/y700/ideacentre-Y700-34ISH/p/99IC9Y70219" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo IdeaCentre Y700</a>.</p>
<p>The first in the range of these models actually starts at $649, which should have plenty enough power to run VR games.</p>
<p>There is actually a reason why I would recommend this over your $650 Cyberpower PC, (some people are not going to like this), but it has a NVidia GPU. In my experience, most (not all) VR experiences run much better on NVidia cards, but don't hold me to that as I have no solid or documented proof, I have tried both and I personally preferred the NVidia experience overall.</p>
<p>Another point to mention is that this computer sports an Intel processor, but that AMD vs Intel is a very contentious topic, and I don't feel it is my place to start an argument on that. (I recommend Intel by the way :p)</p>
<p>I threw together a price on PCPartPicker, but for the ease of purchase and performance, I couldn't recommend the Y700 more, it seems like a really good deal.</p>
|
7589
|
2017-06-19T01:02:46.547
|
|gaming|pc|vr-headset|
|
<p>I just got an Oculus Rift, and now I need a PC to use it with. My question is, what is the cheapest available PC that I can use an Oculus Rift with?</p>
<p><strong>Note</strong>: I don't want to have to build a PC, I want something I can just buy and use.</p>
<p>The cheapest I've found is <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01NBL8BER" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Cyberpower PC</a>, which is $720. Does anyone know if there's anything cheaper?</p>
<p>EDIT: I found a cheaper one, <a href="http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-ultra-vr-desktop-amd-fx-series-8gb-memory-amd-radeon-rx-470-1tb-hard-drive/5655811.p?skuId=5655811" rel="nofollow noreferrer">another Cyberpower PC</a> for $650. Is there anything cheaper than that?</p>
<p>EDIT 2: I ultimately went with the $720 Cyberpower PC I linked to above. So my question is now moot. But I'll leave it up for the benefit of others.</p>
|
What is the cheapest PC compatible with Oculus Rift?
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.