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<p>That PNY SSD is pretty good, but looks like I can just barely beat you out ;)</p>
<h2>SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 250GB</h2>
<p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820147593" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$128 @ newegg</a> ships free in the US</p>
<ul>
<li>250 GB</li>
<li>300,000 IOPS 4K Random Write</li>
<li>330,000 IOPS 4K Random Read</li>
<li>3.2 GB/s read</li>
<li>1.5 GB/s write</li>
<li>M.2 Sata NVMe PCIe
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LgKC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LgKC.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></li>
</ul>
<p>I've had great sucess with Samsung SSD products. The cheaper Samsung evo Sata (non M.2 and slower as a result) SSDs are also a great upgrade to older computers. I personally own a 940 evo and stand by it.</p>
|
7591
|
2017-06-19T19:33:15.913
|
|ssd|data-storage|
|
<p>Recently, I've been eye-ing the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01M08ERD1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PNY CS2030</a>, and it has quite the specs to share. According to the specs, it boasts 201kIOps Read, and 215kIOps write. Additionally, it says a read speed 2.75 GB/s and write of 1.5GB/s.</p>
<p>I'm looking for close comparing competitors. Specifically, under the following qualifications:</p>
<ul>
<li>Under 150 USD </li>
<li>220 GB or more capacity</li>
<li>150k IOps in read and write or more</li>
<li>At least 2GB/s read</li>
<li>At least 1GB/s write</li>
<li>M.2 Form Factor</li>
<li>available in the US (but it doesn't have to be exclusive)</li>
</ul>
<p>Bonus if it beast out the PNY in some aspects for its price.</p>
<p>Thank you all in advance!</p>
|
M.2 drive with 200,000 IOps R/W
|
<p>It depends.</p>
<p>If you want to use ECC (error checking and correcting) RAM, you <em>have to</em> get the Xeon. If you don't want to use ECC, which is more expensive than normal RAM.</p>
<p>If you don't want to get your own CPU cooler, but rather want to use a stock one, get the i5-7600 because it is the only one from that list that can be shipped with a stock Intel air cooler.</p>
<p>In any other case the i5-7600K is the superior choice.</p>
<ul>
<li>It has a higher TDP, meaning it can clock higher for longer.</li>
<li>It has an integrated GPU (as opposed to the Xeon) which can be used to dedicate the Quadro to data-crunching.</li>
<li>It can easily be over-clocked given appropriate cooling.</li>
<li>It has a higher default clock than the other CPUs.</li>
</ul>
|
7604
|
2017-06-22T04:10:50.877
|
|processor|
|
<p>I am looking at getting a CPU from the following list:</p>
<ul>
<li>Intel Xeon E3-1220v6</li>
<li>Intel Core i5-7600</li>
<li>Intel Core i5-7600K</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/compare-products.html?productIds=97470%2C97150%2C97144" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here is a comparison of these CPUs on the Intel website for your convenience.</a></p>
<p>I will be building a small form factor desktop GPU workstation (AI, ML, Computer Vision development) with an NVIDIA Quadro P600. I've narrowed it down to the CPU's in the above comparison. They are all pretty similar in price and specs, but what would you all choose if it were you?</p>
<p>On a side note, I'll mainly be using Linux / Windows but I'd like to possibly use this as a hackintosh, so let me know if any one of these is incompatible there, but not really that important if it's not. </p>
|
CPU recommendation for a GPU workstation, the following Intel comparison?
|
<p>With <a href="https://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DD-WRT</a>, anything is possible! Try a live demo <a href="https://www.dd-wrt.com/demo/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. Note that the demo is outdated and many features have been disabled on it.</p>
<p>DD-WRT is a custom firmware available for a variety of routers that adds many additional features such as supporting multiple different wireless networks connected to different vlans, hosting a VPN server, and much, much more! There are other solutions such as <a href="http://www.polarcloud.com/tomato" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Tomato</a>, <a href="https://openwrt.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OpenWRT</a>, and <a href="https://lede-project.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LEDE</a>, but I haven't used those and I know for a fact that DD-WRT does what you're asking.</p>
<p>Simply take a router that works with DD-WRT (compatibility can be checked <a href="https://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>, see [] for a list of current recommended routers) and flash DD-WRT onto it (A general installation guide is available <a href="https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Installation" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>, google for a router-specific guide as each router is slightly different.)</p>
<p>Warning! incorrect installation of DD-WRT can <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brick_(electronics)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Brick</a> your router, so be careful and follow a router-specific installation guide.</p>
<p>With your fresh DD-WRT head to 192.168.1.1. There you will be prompted to set the web interface's login info. Do so and head to the Wireless->Basic Settings submenu. Here you can edit the default SSIDs and add more under the "Virtual Interfaces" list.</p>
<p>You use different VLANs for separate networks, but I'm not familiar enough with networking to tell you how to do that.</p>
|
7611
|
2017-06-23T13:18:06.913
|
|wifi|wireless|networking|router|network-adapter|
|
<p><strong>I am looking for a single modem/wireless router (or just a wireless router) that can create/share three Wi-Fi networks, each of which are to <em>separate</em> connections?</strong></p>
<p>See below for context.</p>
<hr>
<p>My requirements are such that I need to have a minimum of three Wi-Fi networks available in a particular building. More specifically, these networks would be as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Wi-Fi Network 1</strong> provides a direct connection to the internet (so that three users can browse the web, check email, etc)</li>
<li><strong>Wi-Fi Network 2</strong> provides a connection to VPN 1 (using Network 1 above) so that two users can connect to their work VPN</li>
<li><strong>Wi-Fi Network 3</strong> provides a connection to VPN 2 (using Network 1 above) so that one user can also connect to their work VPN</li>
</ul>
<p>The catch is all three Wi-Fi networks need to be available simultaneously, each with their own passwords so that the VPN 1 network can only be accessed by its two users and likewise the VPN 2 network only accessible to its one user. Wi-Fi Network 1 can be accessible to all, but still needs to be secured.</p>
<p>The two obvious options are:</p>
<ol>
<li>have an ADSL modem/router connect to the internet and wirelessly share this, and then have two separate individual routers physically connected to that via ethernet to connect to and share their respective VPNs, or</li>
<li>have an ADSL modem/router connect to the internet and wirelessly share this, and configure each individual device (computers, smartphones, tablets, etc) to connect to their respective VPNs (using OpenVPN for example).</li>
</ol>
<p>However, I'm looking for a more elegant solution as multiple devices need to connect at various times and none of the users are tech savvy. In other words the best user experience would be to just have all three networks available around the clock and for users to just switch Wi-Fi connections on their devices as required. Also, having multiple modems/routers is overkill as the building is not that big and at most we're talking six simultaneous users.</p>
<p>If no single modem/router (or even just a router) can create/share three Wi-Fi networks, then what is the closest solution? For example, with Option 1 above, is there a router that can be configured to simultaneously connect to and share two separate VPNs so that I only need the one router connected to the ADSL modem/router rather than having two?</p>
<p><strong>Note:</strong> - The Wi-Fi networks do not all need to be on the same band (e.g. one could be on the 5GHz band and two on the 2.4GHz band, etc).</p>
<p>Finally, I am also open to other suggestions to achieve the overall setup.</p>
|
A single modem/wireless router that can create/share three Wi-Fi networks, each of which are to separate connections?
|
<p>The other answer was very helpful, and it opened up a whole set of options I didn't know about. Unfortunately most options are keyboards that are either custom made or have to be ordered internationally. This would mean a lot less favorable return conditions (if at all) should I not be satisfied. So I looked for something I could get in my own country first, where you can almost always return stuff within 2 weeks for a full refund.</p>
<p>So that's for context, and the reason I ended up skipping on the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B06XW87X9D" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Anne Pro</a>, <a href="http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard-1860.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CODE</a> and <a href="http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-87-key-doubleshot-pbt-carbon-black-mechanical-keyboard.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WASD</a>, the <a href="https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1674" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Varmilo VB87M</a> (which is kinda similar to what I end up recommending), and several others.</p>
<h2>Recommendation</h2>
<p>I've now bought and am very happy with my <strong><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AOIRCI6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CM Storm QuickFire TK (Red)</a></strong>, and I would recommend it to others with requirements similar to those in the question. Here's how it stacks up against the requirements:</p>
<p><strong>Must haves:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>✔ QWERTY layout</li>
<li>✔ Full-size shift keys on both sides</li>
<li>✔ Straight layout</li>
<li>✔ Tactile marks on F and J keys</li>
<li>± Compact but not tiny (it's 378 x 138 mm)</li>
<li>✔ No trackpad</li>
<li>✔ Mechanical switches. Cherry Red.</li>
<li>✔ Clearly separated F-keys</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Should haves:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>✗ <strike>Wireless</strike></li>
<li>✔ Under $100 </li>
<li>✔ Basic media keys </li>
<li>✔ Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys</li>
<li>✔ Cursor keys </li>
</ul>
<p>It actually has a mixed 10-key-pad and cursor keys with Home/etc keys, and the NUMLK key determines which of the two it uses.</p>
<p><strong>Nice to haves:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>✔ Not too loud</li>
<li>✗ <strike>Wrist-rest</strike></li>
<li>✔ N-Key rollover</li>
</ul>
<p>Basically it's the more compact Corsair K70 I said I was looking for, as you can see in this photo:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPPlt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPPlt.jpg" alt="comparison between CM Storm Quickfire TK and Corsair K70"></a></p>
<h2>Afterthought after a few months</h2>
<p>Now, a few months after having bought the CM keyboard, I will mention that' I'd still recommend it for my mentioned situation. However, to mention some downsides that I did notice after a few months of usage:</p>
<ul>
<li>It's really kinda heavy for carrying it along with a laptop (size is okay though)</li>
<li>The volume up/down requiring the <kbd>fn</kbd> key doesn't feel right, the scroll-wheel on my K70 is far superior</li>
<li>The <kbd>fn</kbd> key locks after pressing it for a few secs, which happens often when e.g. changing volume, and <a href="http://community.coolermaster.com/topic/13685-quickfire-tk-annoying-fn-lock/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">there is apparently no fix for that</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Again though, I'd still recommend it.</p>
|
7623
|
2017-06-25T20:19:51.780
|
|keyboards|
|
<p>My Dell XPS laptop is very nice, but the keyboard and its trackpad are less than ideal for a full day's work, or a quick gaming session. I'm looking for a keyboard I can put in my bag with my laptop.</p>
<p>Must haves:</p>
<ul>
<li>QWERTY layout</li>
<li>Full-size shift keys on both sides</li>
<li>Straight layout (i.e. no per-hand section or curved setup)</li>
<li>Tactile marks on <kbd>F</kbd> and <kbd>J</kbd> keys to assist with blind typing</li>
<li>Compact but not tiny: between 250mm and 350mm would be ideal, but I'm willing to go a little larger if it helps with the other requirements</li>
<li>No trackpad</li>
<li>Mechanical switches. I <em>love</em> the Cherry MX Red switches on my K70, something similar would be great</li>
<li>Clearly separated function keys: so some space between <kbd>ESC</kbd> and <kbd>F1</kbd>, between <kbd>F4</kbd> and <kbd>F5</kbd> and so forth</li>
</ul>
<p>Should haves:</p>
<ul>
<li>Wireless</li>
<li>Under $100</li>
<li>Basic media keys (play/pause, stop, next, previous, mute, and volume control)</li>
<li>Regular section for Insert/Home/Delete/End/PageUp/PageDown keys</li>
<li>Cursor keys (This requirement was added <em>after</em> <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/7633/4350">the first answer</a> popped up, until then I hadn't realized there would be options without them. I'm willing to consider keyboards without, but would probably prefer any with those keys.)</li>
</ul>
<p>Nice to haves:</p>
<ul>
<li>Not <em>too</em> loud</li>
<li>Wrist-rest</li>
<li>N-Key rollover</li>
</ul>
<p>Not important:</p>
<ul>
<li>Numeric keypad. That is, I even prefer <em>not</em> to have one because it saves space, but I won't dismiss options that do have one.</li>
<li>LED lighting.</li>
<li>Programmable keys.</li>
<li>Scroll-lock key. Who uses that anways? :D</li>
</ul>
<p>I have a Corsair K70 gaming keyboard with Cherry MX red switches for my desktop PC, and I <em>love</em> it. Basically I wish I could buy a more compact (e.g. no numpad), non LED lighted, wireless version of that. Perhaps that helps in recommending something?</p>
|
Compact keyboard with mechanical switches
|
<p>Here's one:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista/282403357237" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prime-Systems-Core-2-Duo-3Ghz-2GB-RAM-160GB-HDD-DVD-CD-Combo-WinVista</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5beK.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Seems like an excellent deal for the price. Barely more than a Raspberry Pi. </p>
<p><strong>$38 and free shipping in the USA</strong></p>
<p><strong>It comes with 2GB RAM and is expandable to 8GB. It comes with a 160 GB hard drive.</strong> </p>
<p>6 USB ports on the back and 2 on the front. Firewire port on the front and back.</p>
<p>Wireless keyboard and mouse work great with the tiny dongle installed in back. Ethernet port on back works great. WiFi adapter works fine.</p>
<p>The dual-core 3GHz processor is good. Motherboard is made by Intel.</p>
<p>The HDD is a slim 3.5" SATA. The DVD drive is really fast. Lots of other SATA ports on the motherboard (I didn't count but there were at least 6; maybe 7) I have been using one to connect a second hard drive inside the case that I used for backups. </p>
<p>Display output is by DVI or VGA. </p>
<p>The motherboard and CPU cooler are ventilated very well. </p>
<hr>
<p>Here is the best way to stand it for maximum ventilation whether on the table or under it. Open vents on the left for the motherboard & exhaust fan on top:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHbmz.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uuohH.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Photo of the motherboard:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDSJw.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Photo of how the drives swivel out for easy access:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5dfh.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<hr>
|
7624
|
2017-06-26T02:22:25.550
|
|linux|memory|networking|
|
<p>I have been using a Raspberry Pi 3B as a workstation, connected to an HDMI monitor and keyboard and mouse. I use it for a variety of tasks, as a general-purpose computer.</p>
<p>With accessories it was just over $60. I already had the monitor, keyboard, and mouse.</p>
<p>It actually works well as a workstation. I can browse the web as long as I don't open too many tabs. It only has 1 GB RAM, period.</p>
<p>A bigger concern is the limited lifetime of using the SD card as primary storage. </p>
<p>I periodically save an image of the flash boot card onto my laptop hard drive so if the card fails I can always restore the image into a new one. </p>
<p>But it feels like I am living on borrowed time using Flash memory constantly.</p>
<p>This needs to become my primary Linux computer as I move away from Windows. I need it to be able to do everything: Internet, SSH, cron jobs, or anything else I might want to do on a general purpose computer. With dependability beyond the one I am using now.</p>
<p>So my question is: Can someone recommend a low-cost Linux computer with a HDD and some RAM expandability?</p>
|
Can someone recommend a low-cost Linux computer with a HDD and some RAM expandability?
|
<p><a href="https://www.altex.com/AVEXIR-Blitz-11-Series-16GB-2-x-8GB-DDR3-2400MHz-DIMM-Kit-Red-w-White-LED-BLITZ16GB-2400R-P156539.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Avexir 2400 @ Altex</a> Altex is only located in Texas but they are super reputable. I have been using them for over a decade. You can actually get them on the phone too. No waiting until Christmas for NewEgg to answer.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231659&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Memory+%28Desktop+Memory%29-_-N82E16820231659&gclid=Cj0KEQjw7dfKBRCdkKrvmfKtyeoBEiQAch0egYkXhT-64368N4iIXH83V9EtiFzngtMPDzdXiecSaFoaAt9c8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G.SKILL F3-2133C10D-16GAB @ Newegg</a></p>
|
7653
|
2017-06-29T18:41:33.247
|
|pc|memory|
|
<p>I'm looking for whatever highest speed DDR3 2x8GB (2 DIMM slots/Dual Channel & Dual-Sided (DS)) memory is still available somewhere from <a href="http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/Z97I-PLUS/2_Dimm_H97I-PLUS_Z97I-PLUS_New_Memory_test_report.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this QVL for an ASUS Z97I-PLUS</a>.</p>
<p>Desired Part No.'s in order of preference:</p>
<p><strong>2800</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>AVEXIR AVD3UH28001208G-4BZ1</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>2666</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>AVEXIR AVD3U26661108G-4BZ1</li>
<li>AVEXIR AVD3U26661208G-4CI</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>2400</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>TEAM TLD38G2400HC11CBK</li>
<li>PANRAM PUD32400C118G2LSK</li>
<li>AVEXIR AVD3U24001008G-4BZ1</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>2133</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>AVEXIR AVD3U21330908G-4BZ1</li>
<li>G.SKILL F3-2133C10D-16GAB</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>2000</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>AVEXIR AVD3U20000908G-4C</li>
</ul>
<p><em>Etc Etc...</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I'd prefer getting them from a mainstream retailer if at all possible like:</p>
<ul>
<li>Newegg</li>
<li>Amazon</li>
<li>Microcenter</li>
</ul>
<p>But since I can't seem to find any of these anywhere I'm pretty open-ended about that. Definitely needs to still have fully intact manufacturer warranty wherever it's from.</p>
<p>And to just be extra picky, I don't want any 'ugly' memory. No green circuit boards - should be properly heat-shielded.</p>
|
Cannot locate memory from QVL ASUS Z97I-PLUS
|
<p>If all you do is YouTube/Netflix streaming, you could use an <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-500GB-Console-Horizon/dp/B01NBWF2JE/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xbox One S</a></p>
<p>(Note: since you said possibly <em>building</em>, I'm going to assume that this is small enough for you)</p>
<h1>Pros</h1>
<ul>
<li>More powerful CPU (than compute stick)</li>
<li>500GB Storage (or 1TB depending on model) vs. 32GB</li>
<li>Quick and easy setup</li>
<li><a href="http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one-s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Supports 4K</a></li>
<li>You can play games</li>
<li>Blu-ray reader</li>
</ul>
<h1>Cons</h1>
<ul>
<li>It's big</li>
<li><strong>It doesn't run Windows</strong> (Possibly a reason to not consider this, depending on what you plan on using your 'micro-pc' for.)</li>
</ul>
|
7671
|
2017-07-03T11:57:25.583
|
|pc|
|
<p>I'm looking into buying (or possibly building) a micro pc for streaming YouTube, Netflix etc. What specs would you recommend for the machine if it's gong to be plugged into a 50-inch 4k display?</p>
<p>I'm looking to spend around £150-200 on the machine (O/S Not neccessary).</p>
<p>Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!</p>
<p>(also, would the Intel ComputeStick be a good machine for this purpose? See specs below.)</p>
<p>Intel STK1AW32SC Compute Stick (Black) - (Intel Atom x5-Z8300 1.44 GHz, 2 GB RAM, 32 GB eMMC, Intel HD Graphics, Windows 10)</p>
|
Micro PC for Streaming Content
|
<p>The Atom series of CPUs isn't available in socketed form. Instead, the CPUs are designed to be soldered onto a mainboard, with the combined CPU/board sold to end users or built into a finished product.</p>
<p>The best way to get a C2550 is to decide if you'd rather have a CPU/mainboard combo or a pre-built computer, and pick something that best meets your needs.</p>
|
7682
|
2017-07-05T02:00:06.303
|
|processor|
|
<p>I want to buy Intel Atom C2550 but could not find it online.</p>
<p>anyone knows where I can buy one?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
|
Where can I buy Intel Atom processor
|
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00Y09IWGQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Logitech MX Everywhere 2</a> seems a good option (when in sale). You can have 3 pc's paired (not at the same time) via bluethooth or use a dongle. It tracks at lot of different surfaces with a decent battery life.</p>
|
7683
|
2017-07-05T05:09:34.740
|
|wireless|mice|
|
<p>I am looking for a wireless mouse with a rechargable battery in the range of ~50$. So far most of the mouses that I have seen have normal batteries as <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00H9862GM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>.</p>
<p>I want the mouse primarily to use it with my laptop when I travel, so sligthly smaller mouses would have preference over bulkier ones.</p>
|
Wireless mouse with rechargable battery
|
<p>My office recently grabbed an HP ScanJet 3000 S3. It's a bit above your price range (closer to $800-900), but I've been in charge of developing our scan process and I can tell you with confidence that it does everything you listed.</p>
<p>We specifically got it to digitize old paper records, and it is set up at a small stand-alone desk with a computer.</p>
<ul>
<li>ADF = Included</li>
<li>A4 sheet size = Included, also has other custom paper sizes. Smaller sheets can sometimes have trouble being grabbed by the feed mechanism, but it's functional.</li>
<li>Modes listed above = All included.</li>
<li>Desktop size = Fits on a pretty tiny desk with plenty of room to work. Very space efficient. </li>
<li>WLAN / LAN = This feature exists but you have to buy a $40 wireless adapter that is made special just for this unit, and you can only scan to mobile devices using this method. I know don't even get me started right now, but this thing works and finding a wireless workaround solution was extremely simple since we work from a server platform. We returned the stupid $40 USB dongle.</li>
<li>Save to SMB Network Share = Included.</li>
<li>Price of 600€ / $ top = Nope.</li>
</ul>
<p>It's far from a perfect solution and you usually won't find me recommending products that don't fit the user's question, but we had a particularly long and arduous experience trying to find something that would fit our needs. I see similar conditions in your post. We had to make a few compromises, but at the end of the day we needed something and this little headache of a scanner made our project possible. Perhaps it can do the same for you.</p>
<p>I can definitely tell you that unless you're looking for something used, duplex auto-document feed scanners that can handle even a 50 page count stack at a time don't exist for under $600. Well, they may exist, but there wasn't anything I found that was suitable and trustworthy enough for business use.</p>
|
7692
|
2017-07-06T10:48:09.957
|
|scanner|
|
<p>We are in search for a business document scanner with following scan options, all done over a ADF.</p>
<p>Simplex: front side</p>
<p>Duplex: front and back side</p>
<ol>
<li>Simplex scan of every sheet to its own PDF.</li>
<li>Simplex scan of all sheets to one PDF.</li>
<li>Duplex scan of every sheet to its own PDF (One PDF with front and back side).</li>
<li>Duplex scan of all sheets to one PDF.</li>
</ol>
<p>We talked with a supplier of ours and got a Brother ADS-2800W from him, but its incapable of mode nr 3.
After some research and getting back with the Brother Support, none of Brothers Scanner is apparently capable of nr 3.</p>
<p>Of course we also tried the usual ways (google, product comparison websites and all those "Best Scanners of >>insert year here<<"-Reviews) but none of those gave the information needed or didnt comply with at least one criteria.</p>
<p>Criteria:</p>
<ul>
<li>ADF</li>
<li>A4 sheet size</li>
<li>Modes listed above</li>
<li>Desktop size</li>
<li>WLAN / LAN</li>
<li>Save to SMB Network Share</li>
<li>Price of 600€ / $ top</li>
</ul>
<p>Thanks in advance for any kind of help!</p>
|
Document Scanner with specific modes
|
<p>I have an older model of this drive adapter:
<a href="http://www.newertech.com/products/usb3_universaldriveadap.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Newertech USB 3.0 Universal Drive Adapter</a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/COLs7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/COLs7.png" alt="Newertech USB 3.0 Universal Drive Adapter"></a>
which of course means mine is USB 2.0. The specifications on the web site indicate that the device will work with a USB 2.0 port.</p>
<p>The power supply to the hard drives is a separate set of components. As you note in your question, you already have power to your drive. You would need to connect only the data portion to the drive and the computer to accomplish your objective.</p>
<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00506QPDU" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a> has it for under US$35.00.</p>
|
7715
|
2017-07-13T19:24:18.607
|
|usb|nas|sata|
|
<p>I've purchased this case off of Newegg for my custom NAS: <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816215244" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816215244</a></p>
<p>This case has 4 SATA cable ports for each individual hard drive. <strong>I'm looking for an SATA cable adapter that will work with USB 2.0</strong>. The challenge I have found has been that there are plenty of SATA to USB solutions out there, but they include SATA cable and SATA power all on one cable. </p>
<p>My hard drives are powered through the two SATA power ports on the machine and hence do not need the power connection. Any advice?</p>
<p><strong>NOTE:</strong> I fully understand the bottleneck from SATA to USB 2.0. This will just serve as a temporary solution for non-time sensitive tasks.</p>
|
SATA cable to USB 2.0 adapter
|
<p>The device SEJPM mentions in his comment would fit you requirements and is offered by a variety of manufacturers to complement their laptop products as well as 3rd party computing devices. <a href="http://www.displaylink.com/downloads" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DisplayLink</a> is the company that makes the chips that enable the video functionality. I have used such a device before and I still have it, though I have a problem with calling these devices docks as these are not traditional docks but big dongles with 45W PSUs and they can get quite hot.</p>
<p>They get the job done quite reliably and the manufacturer offers drivers for a wide variety of platforms, even Linux (they didn't offer drivers for their 3.0 devices at first, but this has been solved a few years back). My older Thinkpad T530 from 2012 had no problems displaying 3 1080p videos with this and my 2 Dell 1080p monitors connected at home.</p>
<p>Edit: In theory everything should work fine, but I did some testing with the devices I have here in the office (1×Dell U2512H, several Dell U2412M), turns out that you should check when getting one of the DisplayLink devices and which one in particular exactly as dual 2560×1440 may be too much for Gen 3xxx devices like mine, devices with 5xxx chips may support such high resolutions older ones were probably made to just support dual 1080p or 1200p.</p>
<p>The U2512H is detected on my Linux machines with recent drivers at proper resolution but as soon as I plug one of the other monitors in its resolution drops to the highest one supported at this data rate (similar to HDMI 1.3 only capable devices, though I connected the bigger monitor to the DisplayPort output). You can set the refresh rate to 30Hz to still drive the monitor at full resolution, but I don't recommend that. DisplayPort chaining is not supported on mine, so a third monitor will just be a clone.</p>
<p>Also DisplayLink solutions don't support night modes as offered through f.lux, Redshift and some recent desktop environments. </p>
|
7720
|
2017-07-14T18:49:38.503
|
|pc|windows|docking-stations|
|
<p>My company has a "Quality of Life" benefit that if I don't use, I will lose. I am thinking about buying 2 Dell P2416D monitors (2560 x 1440), and a docking station that is compatible with both my work and personal laptops.</p>
<p>My work laptop is a <a href="http://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/productdetails/latitude-e7470-ultrabook" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell E7470</a> running Windows 10. My personal laptop is a MacBookPro10 purchased in Aug 2012 that I run Windows 10 via Bootcamp on 90% of the time. </p>
<p>I don't game, and don't expect to add speakers. I really just want to have two monitors, a keyboard, and a mouse. Nothing fancy.</p>
<p>Any recommendations? </p>
|
Dual monitor Docking Station for work and personal computers
|
<p>If you only plan to only cool your CPU with the AIO cooler, I would say 2 140mm fans will keep your CPU plenty cool and be quieter then 3 120mm fans. However if you plan to cool your GPU as well, you will want the 3 120mm radiator. Regardless of the 2 140mm or 3 120mm radiator, the kind of fans used on it will make all the difference.</p>
<p>You can very easily get 3 120mm fans that are considerably quieter then 2 140mm fans, however having less fans will make it easier for keeping things quiet. From personal experience I have found that very rarely will any cooler come with high quality fans. I usually buy fans regardless if the cooler comes with them or not, that way I can make sure the cooler will be as quiet as possible while still being able to provide good performance.</p>
<p>For radiator fans, and case fans in general, there are 3 things to keep in mind when choosing a fan - fan speed, noise level and static pressure. Check out this video for an explanation about static pressure vs air flow and why static pressure is important - <a href="https://youtu.be/Mdx9U-KW038" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Static Pressure vs. High Airflow Fans As Fast As Possible</a></p>
<p>I have personally had extremely good results from Noctua fans, they have a low sound level, good performance and a long life. For a 140mm radiator fan I would recommend this fan - <a href="http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a14-pwm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Noctua NF-A14 PWM</a>, if you went with the 3 120mm radiator I would still recommend the Noctua brand - <a href="http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-f12-pwm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Noctua NF-F12 PWM</a></p>
<p>Also, it is important to keep in mind that ultimately what is important is not the amount of noise that the fan makes but the amount of noise you hear. Things like where the fan radiator is placed, or what it is placed in, can go a long way in reducing the amount of noise you here. One such method would be to place the radiator in a box lined with noise suppressing foam as a way to decrease the noise that you hear.</p>
<p>It is also important that your computer fans are setup so the air flows as efficiently as possible, such as fans in the front are intake fans and the fans in the back and top are exhaust fans. Another thing to keep in mind if your bios offers this feature is to set the fans to variable speed, this allows the fans to only increase their speed (noise) when the computer needs them to.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/quiet-please-advanced-pc-silencing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Tips for Quiet PC</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.howtogeek.com/303078/how-to-manage-your-pcs-fans-for-optimal-airflow-and-cooling/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to Geek.com - managing computer air flow</a></p>
|
7726
|
2017-07-15T23:56:16.000
|
|cooling|
|
<p>I'm building a new system and I want to keep it as quiet as I can without degrading performance. I do plan on doing some moderate overclocking. I am planning on using an all-in-one CPU liquid cooler. Am I better off getting one with 3 120mm fans for the extra radiator surface area or will a smaller radiator with 2 140mm fans still keep the system plenty cool and quieter?</p>
|
Should I get a radiator with 2x140mm fans or 3x120mm fans
|
<p><a href="https://www.peplink.com/products/max-cellular-router/multi-cellular/#hd4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PepWave MAX HD4</a> would be the item you are looking for.</p>
|
7730
|
2017-07-16T11:57:59.793
|
|wifi|networking|router|
|
<p>I've been searching for a Mobile WIFI Router that supports 4 sim card slots but with no result, have anyone of you stumbled upon such a thing ?</p>
|
Multi sim card slots Mobile WIFI Router
|
<p><a href="http://assets.coolermaster.com/landing/am4-socket-ready/v2/download/RR-AM4B-H212-S1.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://assets.coolermaster.com/landing/am4-socket-ready/v2/download/RR-AM4B-H212-S1.pdf</a></p>
<p>That is a link to the installation instructions for installing a Coolermaster after-market cooler. It lists the following models as compatible with an AM4 socket:</p>
<ul>
<li>MasterAir Pro 4</li>
<li>MasterAir Pro 3</li>
<li>Hyper 412 Series</li>
<li>Hyper 212 EVO</li>
<li>Hyper 212 X</li>
</ul>
<p>The instructions specifically state that you need to remove those two plastic brackets and the screws, using the backplate and the holes in the motherboard to install the cooler instead of those brackets.</p>
<p>I'm certain that if you looked at other cooler manufacturers like BeQuiet or Noctua you could find something with similar after-market brackets if none of the listed options meet your other unlisted requirements, whatever they may be.</p>
<p>I will also recommend contacting Asus and having them ship you a spare bracket, as I'm not able to find any online that aren't the usual litany of poorly priced ebay listings. Your motherboard should have come with that, and if your aftermarket cooler were to break or something that backup option should be available to you. You're the customer, get what you paid for.</p>
|
7737
|
2017-07-17T12:19:44.910
|
|cooling|
|
<p>Could someone please recommend a cooler for a Ryzen AM4 motherboard (ASUS Prime X370-PRO). I need one that comes with a complete mounting kit (i.e. the first step in attaching is to remove the kit that comes with the motherboard, that is two bits of plastic on its top side next to the socket, and presumably a backing plate underneath). </p>
<p>To be clear, the parts that I don't have are visible in the photo at the top of <a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/</a> I have just holes in the motherboard instead of the four screws around the CPU socket, and the two bits of plastic that they attach.</p>
<p>Many thanks in advance. Suggestions for where to find a replacement mounting kit that should have come with the board very welcome too. Thanks again.</p>
|
Recommendation for a Ryzen cooler
|
<p>According to UserBenchmark, the relative scores of each GPU are as follows (assuming 100% is the performance of the GTX 1070):</p>
<p>HD 7670 - 7%</p>
<p>HD 7770 - 18%</p>
<p>GTX 650 - 11%</p>
<p>R7 360 - 25%</p>
<p>GTX 1050 - 34%</p>
<p>GTX 1050Ti - 38%</p>
<p>The R7 350 does not appear on UserBenchmark so I used the performance of the RX 360 instead.</p>
<p>I hope this helps you make a more informed decision.</p>
|
7762
|
2017-07-20T10:45:30.843
|
|graphics-cards|gaming|pc|memory|
|
<p>As per my previous question(<a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7743/lga1366-motherboard-compatiable-with-xeon-e5640-quad-core-cpu">here</a>) on a motherboard compatiable with the Xeon E5640, I'm trying to build a cheap gaming rig that is capable of playing games like ETS2 and Fallout 3/NV on decent settings.</p>
<p>I seem to have come to yet another crossroad. I want to include a 4GB Graphics Card in the build, but do not have the cash to splash on a GTX 1050/TI or 1060. So I did some digging around on the online stores (Amazon, Ebay, Craigslist), and I uncovered these two cards by sheer luck, both are AMD/ATI Radeon Cards, sans the one Nvidia Card.</p>
<p>The HD 7670 4GB - <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Game-Graphics-Video-Card-For-AMD-HD7770-4GB-GDDR5-640sp-128Bit-PCI-E-3-/263090045557?hash=item3d41638275:g:5VkAAOSwbopZQfye" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link</a></p>
<p>The HD 7770 4GB - <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ATI-Radeon-HD-7670-4GB-DDR5-128Bit-PCI-Express-Video-Graphics-Card/222585441712?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44757%26meid%3D7e96ee107ec94af7bca8570197d9b3ab%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D263090045557" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link</a></p>
<p>The GTX 650 4GB - <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Point-of-View-GeForce-GTX650-4GB-/222346060432?hash=item33c4dba290:g:eL8AAOSw8w1X-~El" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link</a></p>
<p>The R7 350 4GB - <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Gaming-Graphics-Video-Card-for-AMD-Radeon-R7-350-4GB-GDDR5-128bit-512SP-/263105119511?hash=item3d42498517:g:ITQAAOSw44BYXBFQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link</a></p>
<p>I don't plan on doing any mining with this rig in particular, and am dead set on making the best budget build.</p>
<p>Long story short, which of the two cards is the better option? If none of the latter is a good option, please supply me with an answer if there is another card out there within my $100 Price Range.</p>
<p>(Please note that any other recommendations are preferred to be in new condition)</p>
<p>Thanks for viewing!</p>
|
AMD Radeon HD 7670 4GB vs AMD Radeon HD 7770 4GB vs AMD Radeon R7 350 4GB vs Nvidia GTX 650 4GB for Budget Gaming PC
|
<p>Im a big fan of HP these days.. Used to be a big Dell person but they tend to offer less bang for your buck these days. </p>
<p>If your looking to save a few bucks my thoughts would be to scale down the Hard Drive to a 256GB.. That should provide enough space for your core environment. You can always buy cheap external hard drive (or 2nd Internal if possible) later on if it turns out you need to. My set up is to only have core software on the main HD and save projects externally. </p>
<p>Anyways, if that concept is ok with you, then here is one that I've had my eye on..
<a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADF5MK0383" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADF5MK0383</a></p>
<p>Truthfully,
You could probably drop the RAM down to 8 GB and still have a pleasurable experience programming.
<a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1TS-000D-01GH8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1TS-000D-01GH8</a>
This one is configurable, I would take the I7 2.7GHz, non touch, Windows Pro, 256 GB SSD, 8GB RAM.. Thats a pretty good value for $869 and i think HP is doing a pretty good job these days.</p>
<p>One last thought, AMD is making great processors as of late. While their newest line of products hasn't quite hit the market yet (they will be awesome) they still make great products for less then Intel. Apple even released recently that they will be putting AMD in their highest end computers. So, with that said...
Check this one out... This is one that I would buy today if I could.
<a href="http://store.hp.com/us/en/ConfigureView?catalogId=10051&langId=-1&storeId=10151&urlLangId=&catEntryId=1575152&quantity=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://store.hp.com/us/en/ConfigureView?catalogId=10051&langId=-1&storeId=10151&urlLangId=&catEntryId=1575152&quantity=1</a>
With these options checked...</p>
<h2>Windows 10 Pro 64 - HP recommends Windows 10 Pro. EliteBook 745 G4 with AMD PRO A12-9800B (2.7 GHz, up to 3.6 GHz with Turbo Boost, 2 MB cache, 4 core) + AMD Radeon™ R7 Graphics (Y5Y46AV) ENERGY STAR Qualified Configuration 14" diagonal HD (1366x768) Anti-Glare LED SVA enabled for Webcam slim Integrated HD 720p DualAryMic Webcam 8 GB (1x8GB) DDR4 1866 256 GB PCIe NVMe SSD Dual Point spill-resistant Keyboard No Near Field Communication (No NFC) Intel 7265 802.11 b/g/n/ac 2x2 Non vPro +Bluetooth 4.2 No HP Mobile Broadband No Fingerprint Reader 45 Watt Smart nPFC AC Adapter Power Cord - 1.0 Meters Destination Country Kit Localization 3 Cell 51 WHr Long Life Battery 1/1/0 limited warranty Elite Services Information Card</h2>
|
7772
|
2017-07-21T00:51:13.737
|
|laptop|
|
<p>Specs:</p>
<p>CPU: i7</p>
<p>RAM: 16GB (or configurable) (1600+)</p>
<p>HDD: 512GB SSD (or configurable)</p>
<p>Battery: 8h+</p>
<p>Body: Aluminum</p>
<p>Size: 15"-15.5" display</p>
<p>price: below equivalent Macbook Pro</p>
|
Looking for a programming/development aluminum laptop
|
<p>I decided to try my luck with a router:
Asus RT-AC51U AC750</p>
<p>And use a pair of access point in the house.</p>
<p>So far, all stable, stable speeds, 0 drops, the router accepts multiple configurations and extensive compatibility .</p>
<p>and Based on Linux.</p>
|
7782
|
2017-07-22T14:45:50.803
|
|wifi|router|
|
<p>I do not know if the question is well located, but I come to request a recommendation, I am having problems with getting a wireless router that meets my needs, in this case I look for one that can manage broadband through QOS or some method of Administration, but that has capacity for about 20 Devices. Now I have a DLINK Dir 822 and every 50 seconds the connection is dropped, I do not know if it's because of the warm atmosphere of the tropic at this time, but I want a new computer to solve this in my house. regards</p>
|
Wifi hardware to improvement network
|
<p>The thing you you are looking for is called a <a href="http://amzn.to/2uWRIjV" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Linear Actuator http://amzn.to/2uWRIjV</a></p>
<p>Depending on the strength of linear actuator you get, you might not even need a latch.
You can have the Arduino power the linear actuator until it senses the door fully closed or open. When it is not powered it will hold its position.</p>
|
7783
|
2017-07-22T15:03:59.860
|
|arduino|
|
<p>I have a 3' (1 meter) tall plastic gate around my yard. I would like to automatically close it with my Arduino or Raspberry Pi. Not by remote control - I just want it to detect that the gate is open, wait a few seconds, then close it.</p>
<p>I figure I need 2 things:</p>
<ol>
<li>A sensor to let the Arduino know if the gate is open or closed</li>
<li>A mechanism whereby the Arduino can close the gate. </li>
</ol>
<p>I feel good about my ability to find and implement #1, but I'm not at all sure about #2. </p>
<p>The gates curently use this kind of latch:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dczLh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dczLh.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I figure to force-close it the mechanism would need a fair amount of force (I'm not sure how to measure or quantify this). OTOH to close it by first pulling back the latch, then pushing it closed and releasing latch seems like it would be much more complicated (?). </p>
<p>I'm also open to some different sort of latch to work with the robotic closer. Maybe some magnetic latch would work, but it would have to be strong enough to keep my 25lb Sheltie dog from opening it.</p>
|
Mechanism to close a small gate using Arduino
|
<p>I had determined that the Samsung HM1000 was causing BSOD crashes about once per week, but after resetting the PC (for other reasons), it hasn't caused a crash once.</p>
<p>So, at the moment, I declare the <strong>Samsung HM1000</strong> as the only headset I've found that works well with Windows.</p>
|
7818
|
2017-07-27T18:14:55.763
|
|bluetooth|windows|headset|
|
<p>I have been on something of a quest for something which I am finding to be a very elusive piece of equipment: a Bluetooth headset that works well with Windows.</p>
<p>My Windows 10 PC has an onboard Bluetooth module that uses drivers from Windows Update. Windows 7 did not have these drivers, so while running Windows 7, I had a whole different set of issues with external drivers.</p>
<p>What does <em>work well</em> mean?</p>
<ul>
<li>Pairs to the computer as an audio and recording device (i.e. both audio input and output; usually will say something like "Connected to voice")</li>
<li>Maintains connection even while charging</li>
<li>Charges via MicroUSB</li>
<li>Does not require any drivers outside of Windows Update to function properly (i.e. meet the rest of these conditions)</li>
<li>Does not cause Audio service crashes or system crashes
<ul>
<li>You would be surprised how many headsets this requirement has disqualified; I find that trying to make a call via Google Hangouts, using the Firefox plugin (on Firefox ESR) causes problems like this for no small number of headsets</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p>Unfortunately, no headset manufacturer advertises anything about these features, except occasionally the charging interface, so essentially, I have to purchase a batch of headsets, and then return them all because they all fail at least one of these conditions.</p>
<p>Some headsets I've tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Failed at connecting as voice device:
<ul>
<li>Plantronics M95</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Failed at maintaining connections while charging (I'm guessing that if a particular manufacturer has this problem, it will have this problem for every one of its headsets):
<ul>
<li>Motorola Boom2</li>
<li>Jabra Stealth</li>
<li>Jabra Mini</li>
<li>Quikcell Mod B</li>
<li>MPow Shield</li>
<li>Sony Mono BT Headset (I don't know if it had a more descriptive name)</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Used proprietary charger
<ul>
<li>Jawbone</li>
<li>LifeCharge B30</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Crashed some aspect of PC
<ul>
<li>Plantronics Explorer 500
<ul>
<li>Would crash the audio service whenever I used Google Hangouts, which would lead to no audio until I restarted and would cause a system crash on shutdown</li>
</ul></li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p>I would like to target headsets $50 or under, and I would think that even a cheap headset could satisfy these requirements, but if none exist at that price point, I would want to know if any Bluetooth headset works properly.</p>
|
Bluetooth Headset that works well with Windows
|
<p>I cannot say for sure whether your adapter is an active one or not, but my strong assertion is that it is not. My reasoning here is that feature is usually a selling point and they typically are priced higher as well. You can try it but I doubt it will work properly.</p>
<p>Now I did verify that you need an active adapter to do what you're trying to do with Eyefinity, and I was able to find this: "Cable Matters Gold Plated Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter - Eyefinity Compatible". That particular one is on sale on Amazon at the moment, but you can definitely look around for other products if you need other features (cord length, whatever else) or want to hunt for a better deal. Just make sure the words active adapter" are clearly spelled out on the product page.</p>
<p>As for this part:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The reason this matters is because i've read that EyeFinity will only support it if it is using an active adapter, and then something about having only two streams??</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I think what you're talking about doing here is called <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Multi-Stream_Transport" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Multi-Stream Transport</a>, a technology featured in DisplayPort 2.1. It allows you to run multiple monitors from a single DisplayPort output, but does have limitations depending on your overall configuration. From what I can tell you don't need to make use of that feature to accomplish your objectives here.</p>
<p>One more thing just to clarify EyeFinity; that software is only designed to play games and other fullscreen applications across multiple displays, so you can game in ultra widescreen formats and whatnot. You don't need EyeFinity to use your operating system or to do single monitor gaming, so I wanted to make sure that it's clear here that EyeFinity is not a necessary technology for standard computer use.</p>
|
7841
|
2017-08-01T09:33:37.913
|
|video-adapters|
|
<p>I'm looking at getting a third monitor for my PC. I have an R9 380 and i'm currently using both DVI outputs. According to the AMD EyeFinity FAQ:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>1: The first two monitors can connect to the graphics card with any display output on your product: HDMI, VGA, DVI or DisplayPort.</p>
<p>2:The third (or greater) display must be connected to the graphics card via DisplayPort.</p>
<p>3: If your monitor does not have a DisplayPort connection, <strong>you will need an inexpensive active DisplayPort adapter</strong> for it. DVI to DP adapters can be had for less than $30 USD.
Every family of GPUs supports a different maximum number of displays.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The monitor I have chosen has DVI input, and I have been given a DP to DVI adapter, but I don't know if it's active or passive. The reason this matters is because i've read that EyeFinity will only support it if it is using an active adapter, and then something about having only two streams??</p>
<p><strong>The adapter i have is Dell 0KKMYD</strong> and i can't find out anywhere whether it's active or passive. I can't see anything on the adapter itself without opening the packet and I don't want to do that just yet in case I have to return it.</p>
|
Is this DP -> DVI adapter active or passive?
|
<p>Motherboard, ssd, and ram are all negligible wattage. I usually group them and say they use 100 watts max as computer parts are very efficient these days. But for the sake of calculating. </p>
<ul>
<li>The RX 570 has a <strong>120W TDP</strong>. </li>
<li>DDR4 is around <strong>15W</strong> for four modules.</li>
<li>SSD is around <strong>12W</strong> max for two.</li>
<li>NVME is around <strong>14W</strong> max for two.</li>
<li>1700x has a <strong>95W TDP</strong>.</li>
<li>Motherboards (lga 775 gaming) use <strong>40 to 75 watts</strong> This number is probably drastically lowered as modern motherboards are more efficient and consume less power.</li>
</ul>
<p>Therefore you only need <strong>451 W</strong> under max load. So you really only need a 550W powersupply. You could also get away with a 500W quality PSU as it's most likely your system won't be at 100% full GPU, CPU, SSD at any given point.</p>
<p>I should note that, you should probably look at getting the rx580 or rx480 instead of trying to crossfire weaker cards. Vega is also around the corner if you can wait. Crossfire has a slew of problems, and spotty game support. It's better to get a single powerful card.</p>
|
7848
|
2017-08-01T16:32:43.293
|
|power|
|
<p>I have been trying to figure out what kind of watt range PSU should I aim for my X370 pro gaming motherboard.</p>
<p>I ran into a weird range of watt usage on different calculators.</p>
<p>My setup is this:</p>
<pre><code>AMD Ryzan 1700x at default speed (no OC)
4x 16 DDR4
Dual Radeon RX 570 and SLI/CF (no OC)
2x M.2 SSD
2x SSD
2x monitor LCD 20 inch
</code></pre>
<p>Now Outervision says go for about 491 Watt or so. Which seems very low considering all things!</p>
<p>While Newegg doesn't seem to have put in RX 570 value in yet porperly so I replaced with RX 480 and it comes out at 696 Watt.</p>
<p>Evga power meter says 600 watt which undercut Newegg's estimate.</p>
<p>I am going to not setup all of this right away now and I may eventually upgrade to this later. For example at first I will only have one RX 570 GPU, fewer SSD more mechnical drives, and less RAM until I can afford to upgrade those.</p>
<p>So with all that in mind what kind of watt range should I aim for?</p>
|
X370 motherboard: Power Supply Usage
|
<p>Your motherboard can run any of the listed RAM speeds, but the extra speed will not be utilised if you do not use Extreme Memory Profile (XMP), leaving your more expensive purchase of faster RAM a useless investment. </p>
<p>Due to this, If you are not thinking of modifying your BIOS settings, I would recommend choosing which ever speed of RAM is the least expensive in the range/brand you are looking at. </p>
<p>For example, Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400Mhz is actually more expensive p/gb than 3000Mhz, even though some of the customers of the 3000Mhz product won't use the XMP option, the price is better because uninformed PC enthusiasts buy more of the faster RAM, as it seems more beneficial.</p>
<p>The answer to your question is that the RAM is clocked at the speed listed, but to take advantage of that speed, you will need to enable the XMP option in your BIOS menu. </p>
<p>OC means that the memory controller on the motherboard is overclocked when using 2933 or faster RAM, such as the 3200Mhz products.</p>
|
7874
|
2017-08-05T17:40:27.890
|
|memory|
|
<p><a href="http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20X370%20Professional%20Gaming/#Specification" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20X370%20Professional%20Gaming/#Specification</a></p>
<p>I am somewhat bit lost on figuring out which memory that motherboard does support.</p>
<p>On one lines it say "- Supports DDR4 <strong><em>3200+(OC)</em></strong>/2933(OC)/2667/2400/2133 ECC & non-ECC, un-buffered memory*"</p>
<p>I have a quick installation guide booklet that say the same thing about 3200+(OC).</p>
<p>Yet the following table only list MHZ up to 2667. I may be misreading the table.</p>
<p>I talked to the computer department manager at Fry's Electronic (local DIY store for PC). He said go for 3000 MHZ because that is the motherboard clock rate.</p>
<p>I went to G.SKill website RAM configurator it only shows support for 2133 MHZ to 2400 MHZ for x370 pro gaming MB.</p>
<p>So my question is the 3200 listed overclocked to THIS amount or by default at 3200 and can overclock above that?</p>
|
ASROCK Fatal1ty Motherboard X370: Memory support
|
<p>In order to use an <em>external Graphics Processing Unit</em> (eGPU) you (usually) need three components:</p>
<ul>
<li>A Thunderbold 3 cable (I will not elaborate on this one)</li>
<li>A case / box that supplies power and a mount for desktop graphics cards</li>
<li>A desktop graphics card that satisfies the spatial and power constraints of the box</li>
</ul>
<p>In the blog entry the box is an Akitio Thunder3 and the graphics card is a Nvidia Geforce GTX 1050 Ti. The Thunder3 provides the mount for the desktop graphics card, provides the power and the PCIe <=> Thunderbolt 3 interface and optionally also provides power for the connected laptop.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Is it not possible to just buy eGPU and connect it to my laptop Mac?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There is no such thing as an "eGPU", the name designates the concept of using an external GPU, which is most commonly done by "faking" an internal environment to an internal GPU externally.</p>
<p>If you are interested in actually acquiring an eGPU solution, <a href="https://egpu.io" rel="nofollow noreferrer">egpu.io</a> has nice coverage, reviews, guides and overviews.</p>
|
7887
|
2017-08-08T18:51:56.990
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I consider buying Titan XP for my work on training neural net on my laptop Mac. I have never used any external GPU but as far as I investigate how to set up eGPU, it seems that I must prepare another component called <em>eGPU box</em>. For example <a href="https://9to5mac.com/2017/04/11/hands-on-powering-the-macbook-pro-with-an-egpu-using-nvidias-new-pascal-drivers/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this blog author uses an eGPU box called Akitio Thunder3 along with GTX 1050 Ti</a>.</p>
<p>However, I don't understand what is eGPU box and what is it for? Is it not possible to just buy eGPU and connect it to my laptop Mac? Do I have to buy yet another component to connect to eGPU?</p>
|
What is eGPU and what is it for?
|
<p>DVI does not support 4k60 so your only option is to <strong>use the display-port</strong>.</p>
<p>As your TV is most likely HDMI only, getting a display-port to hdmi 2.0 adapter is fine as that provides plenty of bandwidth for 4k60.</p>
<p>I recommend using Display-port to hdmi 2.0 for your TV, and using DVI to your monitor so you don't have to switch between the two physically. If not you can just continue to share the hdmi connection from the display-port adapter. </p>
|
7895
|
2017-08-09T18:39:36.153
|
|hdmi|video-adapters|dvi|
|
<p>I have a MSI GTX 970 4G and recently a few pins in the HDMI port broke. The card has 3 other ports: Display Port, Dual link DVI-I and DVI-D.</p>
<p>I sometimes alternate between monitor (1080@60) and TV (2160@60). What cord or adapter would you guys recommend to get maximum bandwidth (2160@60).
My monitor has HDMI and DVI-D and TV only has HDMI.</p>
<p>Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!</p>
|
What video port should I get for optimum resolution?
|
<p>Most all electronic devices have a MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) specification.</p>
<p>You can use the spec. to find the highest MTBF, and then calculate how many you will need to cover 100 years.</p>
<p>Of course this is on average. Your best bet would be to exceed it as much as possible.</p>
<p>And whatever you do, DON'T drop it!</p>
|
7896
|
2017-08-09T19:18:32.183
|
|desktop|
|
<p>Design a desktop computer system that would reasonably be expected to last for 100 years. Assume it will be used for 3 hours every day in this period (100,000 hours)</p>
<p>If some parts of the computer simply won't last that long, try and estimate how many spares might be needed to last the 100 years. For example, what type of monitor would last the longest before catastrophic failure? Would it last 100,000 hours? If not, how many would you need? Are there issues storing spare parts for long periods of time?</p>
<p>Assume the computer has about 1TB of data that you'd want to keep for the 100 year period. What backup strategy would you use?</p>
<p>Performance is not really an issue. Assume the machine will be used for running Office type applications.</p>
<p>If there are too many possible approaches to this to answer the question, then try and aim for the cheapest option you can think of.</p>
|
Computer that would last 100 years
|
<p>Seeing as your budget supports it, I would recommend the Motorola Moto G5 or the G5 Plus. If you are looking even better that that, the the Motorola Moto Z is pretty good.</p>
<p>The reason why I suggest Motorola is because they have NO bloatware and they are fast, very fast. Most of them come standard with multiple gbs of RAM, top end processors etc.</p>
<p>They are also very good value for money. For buying, just Google the make and model, and put "sim free" at the end, unless you intend to buy from the high street.</p>
<p>If these options don't suit you, I would suggest using www.gsmarena.com and specify what you want in their advanced search.</p>
|
7922
|
2017-08-14T17:19:00.367
|
|android|smartphones|
|
<p>I was all set to buy the One Plus 5 but realised that it doesn't support SD cards or have an FM radio. I looked at the Xiaomi Mi6 as well but that's similarly hobbled.</p>
<p>Can anyone recommend a decent spec Android Nougat smartphone, 5" display or bigger with SD card support and an active FM chip please?</p>
<p>Budget, as it's been asked below, is up to what those two phones would cost in the EU (€450-550)</p>
|
Android smartphone with SD and FM
|
<p>A used GTX 1060 6GB or a new GTX 1060 3GB would be a lot faster than your GTX 660
<a href="http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1778?vs=1771" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1778?vs=1771</a>
Or a Radeon 470 (prices are high now, but it was selling for $140-$160 not long ago)
<a href="http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1778?vs=1872" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1778?vs=1872</a></p>
<p>But you might as well be patient..</p>
|
7931
|
2017-08-15T22:34:20.440
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>Because of the shortage of AMD Vega cards. I have decide to move to a smaller video card upgrade now and wait on getting one of those Vega cards.</p>
<p>I am looking at pick up at a store close to Houston, Texas if possible. Fry's electronic or Micro Center or maybe best buy something.</p>
<p>I am only willing to spend up to $200 at the most for a PCI-E card.</p>
<p>I am trying to find one that isn't a side-grade or worse perform than what I have in my current PC. It is a GTX 660.</p>
<p>I noticed that most GTX upgrade ending up being too similar to GTX 660 and not having enough of an incentive to buy those at $200 or under. Am I wrong?</p>
|
Temporarily GPU Suggestion Purchase
|
<p>Ended up going with setup 1 and using this RFID-reader from Sparkfun. <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14066" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14066</a></p>
<p>I interface the reader by use of the Mercury library in a Python program. Super reliable reader I can highly recommend. </p>
|
7932
|
2017-08-16T10:04:19.757
|
|raspberry-pi|microcontroller|rfid|
|
<p>I am working on a Robot-project where a sub task is have to check how many and which RFID-tags are placed in a bucket.</p>
<p>Multiple tags will be placed into the bucket - so I run into the problem with RFID-tags colliding with each other. The reader will be connected and programmed via Raspberry Pi. From my research so far I have come up with the following 3 options:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gz7x1.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gz7x1.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><strong>1</strong> RFID reader at the buttom of the bucket. This has to be a reader able to read the multiple tags at the same time, since the tags will be laying on top of each other. Example of reader: <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14066" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14066</a></p>
<p><strong>2</strong> RFID reader on the side of the bucket. Should read the tags passing by as they are thrown into the bucket. Would not required that the RFID reader is able to read multiple tags at once, but the reading should be fast enough to catch them passing by. Example of reader: ADAFRUIT PN532 NFC/RFID </p>
<p><strong>3</strong> Same concept as 2 but minimizing the space and using slides to hopefully give a bit longer time for reading the tags. Example of reader: Same as in 2</p>
<p>I am aiming for the most simple and most secure solution. </p>
<p>How would you guys do this, and what kind of RFID hardware would you recommend to go with the Raspberry Pi connection. </p>
|
RFID solution for reading multiple tags
|
<blockquote>
<p>So small and simple, but you can use this display with any computer that has HDMI output, and the shape makes it easy to attach to a electronic product. Although the 800x480 common HDMI display is made for Raspberry Pi, we can use it other where not only for Raspberry Pi.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Description of the product from your link.</p>
<p>That product will work with any computer, provided it has an HDMI output.</p>
|
7934
|
2017-08-16T10:39:07.577
|
|monitors|touchscreen|
|
<p>I am looking for a monitor of 16 inches or less, that could get conected to my laptop and using it as a second screen.I don't mind if it is portable or not, but I would like it to be touch screen.</p>
<p>I know that screen of this kind are <a href="https://www.elecrow.com/wiki/index.php?title=HDMI_Interface_5_Inch_800x480_TFT_Display" rel="nofollow noreferrer">available</a> for Raspberr Pi. But is it possible to use this kind of screens as second screen for a laptop? </p>
<p>Does anybody knows any other screen that could be used the way I explained?</p>
<p>Thanks in advance.</p>
|
Small monitor for laptop with touchscreen
|
<p>Well, the short answer is:</p>
<p><strong>Yes</strong></p>
<p>This list might help: </p>
<p><a href="http://www.ultrabookreview.com/6520-fanless-ultrabooks/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.ultrabookreview.com/6520-fanless-ultrabooks/</a></p>
<p>It is a detailed list of laptops that are of a fanless design and would be more in line with what you are asking about. However, without more details a proper recommendation is hard to give.</p>
<p>Disclaimer: This really isn't a proper answer either, but the question really isn't about hardware recommendations and more a general question that would be easily researched.</p>
|
7938
|
2017-08-16T16:38:49.950
|
|laptop|pc|cooling|
|
<p>Is there a PC laptop without air vents in the bottom, just like the Macbooks? I've always found those lame; How am I supposed to use it on the top of my lap if I must keep the air vents clear? I actually moved to Mac just because of that. But I'd really like to know if there's a PC option. Thanks.</p>
|
PC laptop without vents in the bottom?
|
<p>Yes you can, because they are just hard drive without a magnetic disk and spindle. They all are of same size 2.5", which can easily fit in your laptops HDD housing. </p>
<p>If you've got DVD drive and you feel its not much used then get a DVD SSD Caddy. They come in 2 sizes which depends on your laptop. Bigger one sizes 12.7mm and the smaller sizes 9.5mm. This will allow you to run both the hardisks parallel.</p>
<p>I got Acer 5830TG, loaded with 6gigs of ram, core i5, nvidia GT540m, Samsung EVO 850 120 GB as primary and Seagate 500 GB as secondary.</p>
<p>Samsung EVO 850 is good in R/W performance. This one is a TLC flash equipped. Which can make a write of limit up to 95 TB but in this competition others stops at ~30 TB . At the same time other SSD manufacturers TLC's write speed performance can bring to their knees. They only go up to 30-90mb, hardly to reach the highest peak. But Samsung provides 500+ mb speed performance in R/W both. Which averages to 250mb to 300mb. That's really a great performance as compared to its competitor's in TLC range.</p>
<p>we can push our self to spend extra bucks to get a quality product. :-)</p>
|
7943
|
2017-08-17T05:05:11.460
|
|laptop|hard-disk|ssd|performance|
|
<p>I have a Dell Inspiron 5558 with following configuration.</p>
<ul>
<li>Intel Core i5 5250U 1.6GHz</li>
<li>8GB RAM</li>
<li>NVidia 920M 4GB</li>
<li>Windows 10 Updated to latest stable</li>
<li>1TB 5400 RPM WD HDD</li>
</ul>
<p>Now the problem is, I can't use my laptops full potential due to limited read-write speed of HDD. To solve it, I want to upgrade my HDD to SSD.</p>
<ol>
<li>Is my laptop compatible to upgrade to SSD ?</li>
<li>What dimensions of SSD will be compatible ? </li>
<li>Which SSD will be best ?</li>
</ol>
<p>Kindly help me upgrade my rig. Thanks :)</p>
|
Upgrade HDD to SSD for Dell Inspiron 5558
|
<blockquote>
<p>Any recommendation?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Essentially, anything that has a Nvidia Geforce GTX 1070 or GTX 1080 will work for you. However due to your budget, finding a 1070-based model is more likely. The other caveats that you have to look out for are the 16GB of RAM that you specified, the SSD and that the CPU (most likely an Intel model) has <strong>HQ</strong> or <strong>HK</strong> at the end of the name and <em>not</em> <strong>U</strong>, because the latter would indicate a dual-core CPU limited to 28W or 15W power-consumption as opposed to a quad-core at 45W. Any laptop that satisfies these above constraints should work. </p>
<p>Beyond that, note that you probably want to clean the fans every now and then (1x a month if you can) to make sure the air can flow and cool the system properly, so that you don't get reduced performance or sudden heat-caused shutdowns.</p>
<p>Because I have to, I'll make a generic recommendation fitting your budget:</p>
<p>The <strong>Asus ROG GL502VS-FY042T</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>It features an Nvidia GTX 1070 GPU (-> 8GB of VRAM) meaning it's about the best you can get from a 1500€ laptop</li>
<li>It features a standard quad-core 45W Skylake laptop CPU: the i7-6700HQ</li>
<li>It features 16GB of RAM</li>
<li>It features a 512GB SSD paired with a 1TB HDD</li>
<li>It's priced at 1499€ (at least in Germany, should be similar in other european countries)</li>
</ul>
|
7952
|
2017-08-18T12:16:01.573
|
|laptop|
|
<p>I want a laptop to work on 3D (Blender, mainly). My budget is between 1000 and 1500e. Any recommendation? Mi biggest problem with laptops have always been heat, so I'm looking for one that can render for 6-7 hours without turning off.</p>
<p>How good can be a Macbook Pro to work on 3D? Can I have any problem when exporting any blender file made in Windows into a Mac?</p>
<p>Thank you.</p>
|
Laptop [1000 - 1500e] for 3D modeling, animating and rendering on Blender
|
<p>Both the machines are upgradable to the same extent. </p>
<ul>
<li><p>SSD can be added.</p></li>
<li><p>More RAM can be added.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Now, Acer comes with the higher specs in ram and SSD. Which extremely reflects your performance.</p>
<p>Now buying is dependent on pricing of the machines. If Acer comes at the same cost of dell or slightly higher or lower then simply choose the Acer blind folded.</p>
<p>Because 8 gig stick and a 128 SSD disk sums around INR 11k in India. Which is really a big amount.</p>
<p>Then comes the brand, If you're not brand conscious, I hope you will pick the right one. :-)</p>
|
7953
|
2017-08-18T13:58:36.763
|
|performance|
|
<p>I am to purchase a laptop today. I have narrowed down to 2 choices. </p>
<ul>
<li>An <a href="https://www.flipkart.com/acer-nitro-5-core-i7-7th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-128-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-4-graphics-an515-51-gaming-laptop/p/itmev4sgheh3pvxg?pid=COMEV4SGYG7HM6QP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acer</a> laptop with 16 GB RAM (expandable to 32 GB) and with GTX 1050 4 GB graphics processor. </li>
<li>A <a href="https://www.flipkart.com/dell-inspiron-core-i7-7th-gen-8-gb-1-tb-hdd-windows-10-home-4-gb-graphics-7567-gaming-laptop/p/itmeszyxanehpss7?pid=COMESZYXCHKY4Z3C&lid=LSTCOMESZYXCHKY4Z3CA2IR3Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Del</a> laptop with 8 GB RAM (expandable to 16GB) but with GTX 1050Ti 4GB graphics processor.</li>
</ul>
<p>The prices are almost the same. The Acer has a 128GB SSD in addition to a 1TB HDD. But I am willing to compromise on that <strong>IF</strong> 1050Ti with 8 GB RAM will give me substantially good performance compared with 1050 with 16GB RAM</p>
<p><strong>USAGE</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Heavy gaming (2-3 hours per day) - GTA V, Witcher 3, Skyrim, etc.</li>
<li>Mobile application development (1-2 hours per day) - Android Studio</li>
</ul>
|
Which configuration do I choose for my laptop?
|
<p>Please see my <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/7874/asrock-fatal1ty-motherboard-x370-memory-support">accepted answer here</a> for an overview of XMP and OC in relation to memory.</p>
<p>This <a href="https://www.amazon.fr/Corsair-CMY16GX3M2A1600C9R-Vengeance-ordinateur-performante/dp/B00D5XAN06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503243259&sr=8-1&keywords=CMY16GX3M2A1600C9&th=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3</a> memory is probably a good choice for you. It comes in varying colors, which are all roughly around 150 EUR, or the Red version, which is 130 EUR.</p>
<p>This is the RAM that I actually have in my personal machine, and I have never had any issues whatsoever. </p>
<p>However, if you are set on purchasing the HyperX brand, then take the faster RAM speeds incase you want to use the XMP functionality at a later date.</p>
<p>RAM is expensive at the moment so around 8GB per DIMM should be fine for future upgrades.</p>
|
7961
|
2017-08-20T14:31:28.203
|
|memory|compatibility|
|
<p>I am looking for a <a href="https://www.amazon.fr/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_style_browse-bin_2?rh=n%3A340858031%2Cn%3A!340859031%2Cn%3A427941031%2Cn%3A430351031%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A4370880031%2Cp_n_style_browse-bin%3A199703031" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2x8Go DDR3 RAM</a> below ~150€ based on this configuration:</p>
<ul>
<li>ASUS P8P67-M</li>
<li>Intel Core i5-2500K</li>
<li>GeForce GTX 980</li>
</ul>
<p>From the motherboard specifications:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Dual-Channel DDR3 2200(O.C.) / 2133(O.C.) / 1866(O.C.) / 1600(O.C.) / 1333 / 1066MHz</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Does <code>O.C.</code> mean it will gracefully fallback to 1333MHz if not overclocked?</p>
<p>Should I pick the Kingston HyperX Fury HX313C9FBK2 DDR3 <strong>1333MHz CL9</strong> over HX318C10FBK2 DDR3 <strong>1866MHz CL10</strong> if compatible, or is there a more reliable manufacturer?</p>
<p>One thing I got from <a href="https://superuser.com/questions/509824/which-ram-is-faster-1333-mhz-cl9-or-1600-mhz-cl10">here</a> to compare RAM let me think I should unless I plan to overclock:</p>
<pre><code>1866 Mhz / CL10 = 186.6
1333 Mhz / CL10 = 133.3
1333 Mhz / CL9 = 148.1
</code></pre>
<p>Finally, is 2x8Go reasonable or should I aim higher to be safe, knowing that I will have four slots?</p>
|
RAM recommendation
|
<p>In general if you can afford the £50 more and it doesn't hurt much then you're going to get this much more performance, or let's say £25 worth more performance if you want to be a bit more critical about Intel's pricing model.</p>
<p>Here is a comparison of both models on Intel's site: <a href="https://ark.intel.com/en/compare/95443,95451" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://ark.intel.com/en/compare/95443,95451</a></p>
<p>There is just a difference in clock speed, but if you have workloads where a little extra performance matters and you can process more data in the same mount of time or get work done a tad quicker then that may be worth £50 and depending on the maker and model the resale value may be a bit higher (well, I doubt it is in this case, I was thinking of Macs, ProBooks and Thinkpads). It won't make a notable difference with regards to gaming, authoring office/tex documents or compiling typical student programming projects. Workloads like complex/slow video/image analysis and encoding or compiling lots of big software projects (like a lot of Linux packages from source) will benefit a bit.</p>
<p>The chassis looks fine from what I can tell, there should be little risk that the faster processor overheats and becomes slower than the other chip as has happened on some bad (ultrabook) designs in the past.</p>
<p>If you are looking for the best performance and you can wait a little longer than you may want to look for the recently announced Intel 8000 series processors. The iGPU was re-branded from HD to UHD but is mostly the same (expect only very tiny refinements, if at all) but all of the announced models have 4 cores and 8 threads instead of 2 cores and 4 threads as the i5/i7-7000 series mobile processors have. But you will have to wait a few weeks or probably months for these to be available in updated products and the initial prices will be higher than these offers for a while.</p>
|
7974
|
2017-08-22T19:05:50.283
|
|laptop|processor|
|
<p>I am looking at buying a laptop for uni. Most of uni stuff won't need very good specs but I also want to play a few games on it. The laptop I am looking at has a choice of Intel Core i7-7500U 2.7GHz or Intel Core i5-7200U 2.5GHz processors. </p>
<p>It costs £50 more for the i7, <strong>so my question is it worth it, and also if the newest intel processors are worth getting</strong> (I believe the 2 listed above were released in autumn 2016, and there have been more released earlier this year- <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Core" rel="noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Core</a>). </p>
|
Choosing an Intel processor (i7/i5)
|
<p>To be honest, the only phone on that website I would personally recommend is probably your first suggestion, the Samsung J3.</p>
<p>Samsung devices have good build quality and performance overall, they also last a long time, from personal experience.</p>
<p>Otherwise, I would most likely recommend the LG smartphones, either of the two below:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.sancta-domenica.hr/mobitel-lg-x210-k7.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG X210 K7</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.sancta-domenica.hr/mobitel-lg-k350-k8-dual-sim-crni-1.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG K350 K8</a></li>
</ul>
<p>To be reasonable, the General Mobile (GM) phones dont look too bad on paper, its just that i have never heard of them.</p>
<p>My personal advice would be to buy a Motorola G5 and get it shipped to your country if you are looking for a pure and fast android experience.</p>
<p>Hope this helps.</p>
|
7975
|
2017-08-22T20:19:37.753
|
|smartphones|
|
<p>I'm buying a new smartphone, and I wanna make a smart decission about it. I want the best for the price, but I don't wanna read a bunch of reivews.</p>
<p>I'm buying at a price range of Samsung J3, but it can be any other model.</p>
<p>I don't know should I go for some top brands like Samsung, or try with something like GM or Alcatel. I mean, why are GM and Alcatel so cheap, are they really low quality, or? I don't believe it's low quality, GM is Google right, does that mean it's gotta be good since it's from Google?</p>
<p>Samsung offers much less for the price than GM, Alcatel and Cubot, why is that so, is Samsung overrated?</p>
<p>Can I buy from GM or Alcatel without fear that it will break soon? </p>
<p>I haven't found a single review GM 4G and Lenovo K10a40.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.sancta-domenica.hr/komunikacije/gsm.aspx#page=2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This</a> is the store where I'll be buying, it's Croatian, but you'll understand, I'm looking at about 1000 kn price range. 1 USD is about 7kn.</p>
|
Buying new smartphone
|
<p>Either CPU will be fine but for heavy editing or rendering workloads you'd be better served getting a Ryzen 7 1700. The extra process threads will shorten your production downtime.</p>
<p>This will really end up being a budget-driven decision for you. If this machine is to fuel a hobby and your budget is on the tight side, get the Ryzen 5. If you're building this for professional production and intend to use it to earn income, then absolutely get the Ryzen 7 over the Ryzen 5 if your budget allows.</p>
<p>You could also wait a few months, as AMD is rumored to have a new professional-grade lineup of processors using the Zen architecture between Q3 and Q4, but that depends on your timeline.</p>
|
8000
|
2017-08-28T12:22:18.950
|
|processor|video-editing|
|
<p>I am looking to build an editing PC and one of the crucial components is CPU.</p>
<p>However, it seems like Davinci Resolve run almost entirely on the GPU, and the GPU I have is the RX560 4GB. I am wondering whether will I get a better performance by going for the Ryzen 7 1700 instead of the Ryzen 5 1600. </p>
<p>Getting a more powerful GPU is out of my budget. I have a B350 motherboard coming in the mail, I just need to know what CPU I should get.</p>
|
Ryzen 5 or 7 CPU for Davinci Resolve 14
|
<p>This is a very bad idea unless you can verify with 100% certainty that the USB-C cable can carry the same amperage and voltage as the laptop charging cable. Missing the mark on this by charging your battery on a connection that has too much or too little juice can damage the battery and present a fire hazard. OEM laptops should always be used with a properly specced charging cable, preferably from the manufacturer.</p>
|
8012
|
2017-08-30T12:39:47.507
|
|usb|
|
<p>I have a Dell laptop, with the ring shaped charger (not usb-c), I want to be able to charge it trough my giant battery pack, it has usb-c and a. Is there and adapter or wire, so 1 end is usb-c (45w) and other is wall outlet (so I can plug in the wall charger) or directly to dell's charger port?</p>
|
Usb C Male to Wall outlet or Dell charger?
|
<p>Couple things at play here, so I'll try to offer what I think would be the best comprehensive solution.</p>
<p>First, you want a 27-30" panel minimum, as far as size. It will allow for the monitor to be placed at a healthy visual distance without reducing how much area it takes up within his visual field, similar to how a 50" TV looks "smaller" when it's mounted on the wall 10' away from you. You also want that extra screen space to be able to adjust any accessibility software. </p>
<p>Examples of accessibility software for Windows would be the native Narrator software, NonVisual Desktop Access (NVDA) which is free open-source software, or Window-Eyes for MS Office or whatever the equivalent is called now. There are other options out there as well if none of these work for your dad.</p>
<p>Depending on if and how you implement any zoom features to enlarge text, resolution might come into play. If you're going to enlarge text to 150% or larger, I'd recommend a 1440p display over a 1080p. My reasoning here is that as you enlarge text the lines might become blurred or altered due to the ratio between the desired image size and the pixels-per-inch count. In my experience the higher definition displays tend to display enlarged text more clearly.</p>
<p>Finally, I'll link the following thread about programming font options below:</p>
<p><a href="https://stackoverflow.com/questions/4689/recommended-fonts-for-programming">https://stackoverflow.com/questions/4689/recommended-fonts-for-programming</a></p>
<p>You can also find good lists by searching around the internet if that link dies. I recommend one of these because coders usually prefer fonts that have a high level of distinctiveness and differentiation between characters, which minimizes the chance that you will mistake a 1 for an l for a ] and so on. This is, for obvious reasons, also very helpful to the visually impaired. I believe that there are Chrome and Firefox extensions that will try to apply a given font to websites as well, so those might be worth looking into if your dad browses online a lot.</p>
<p>If you'd like to provide a list of desired specs and a budget, I'd be happy to look around for some models that would be a good fit. Best of luck!</p>
|
8029
|
2017-09-01T19:21:23.850
|
|monitors|ergonomics|
|
<p>My father has about 20-25% vision impairment (with eye correction) and I would like to ask you about a monitor which could make his life easier (avoid sitting too close and straining eyes too much).</p>
<p>Typical display like 24" 1080p is too small for him. Of course it is possible to adjust resolution and/or DPI settings but it is not always fully supported and can be quite annoying. </p>
<p>To avoid limiting the work space, I would like to ask you about some display which could run in 1080p as its native resolution but having bigger diagonal (probably starting at 27 inches).</p>
<p>Must-have:</p>
<ul>
<li>Screen size >= 27"</li>
<li>1080p</li>
<li>Anti-glare coating</li>
<li>IPS/VA Panel</li>
</ul>
<p>Nice-to-have:</p>
<ul>
<li>Pivot</li>
<li>Flicker-free</li>
<li>Anti-Blue Light</li>
</ul>
<p>Budget: up to $1200</p>
<p>Do you have any recommendation on that?</p>
|
Monitor for vision impaired person
|
<p>The reference document for this is <a href="http://read.pudn.com/downloads166/ebook/758109/PCI_Express_CEM_1.1.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PCI-E Card electromechanical specification</a>. I believe the relevant figure is 6.2:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzVOz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzVOz.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>As you can see, the distance you're asking about is not specified at all, because the lug (referred to as "detail F" in the figure) has no connectivity and is present to prevent insertion of PCI-E cards into PCI slots. It doesn't have to be positioned at a precise distance from the bracket for the card to work.</p>
<p>What is specified is the distance between the card bracket and the notch inside the connector, which is 59,05mm.</p>
|
8070
|
2017-09-11T08:42:09.783
|
|graphics-cards|pcie|
|
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFbFr.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFbFr.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I wonder that what is the distance between top of PCIe x 16 connector and top of GPU card? I think it has a constant value, so if constant value, it will be recommended in any document, but I can't find anything related to it.
Anyone can help me? </p>
<p>Thank you</p>
|
What is exactly GPU dimension
|
<p>I'd say a laptop is the best choice. Here's why:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>A laptop can be used to develop on several platforms</p></li>
<li><p>A <em>Chromebook</em> has been made specifically to surf the web, hence a laptop can be expected to give a better experience.</p></li>
<li><p>Laptops have good storage space options, processors and RAM. And as Chromebooks have been made for the <em>internet men</em>, in mind, it doesn't have such great options.
Even if a Chromebook does have a lot of storage options and RAM, you won't be fully able to utilize it. A laptop on the other hand, will allow you not only to develop but also to virtualize other operating systems.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Some recommendations: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_availability_1?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A13896617011%2Cn%3A565108%2Ck%3ALaptops%2Cp_36%3A-47800%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A13580790011%7C13580791011%7C7817224011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A5446812011%7C7817230011%7C562241011%2Cp_n_availability%3A1248801011&keywords=Laptops&ie=UTF8&qid=1505480615" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon.com under €400 recommendations</a>
<a href="http://www.techradar.com/news/the-5-best-linux-laptops-of-2017" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Techradar Linux Recommendations</a></p>
|
8079
|
2017-09-14T09:50:12.663
|
|laptop|web-development|battery-life|chromebook|
|
<p>I'm searching a portable machine for programming and I don't know which is the best between laptop and chromebook.</p>
<p>Requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>At least a 5hr life battery</li>
<li>I'll run linux (probably ubuntu or lubntu)</li>
<li>I'm a web dev and I'll use react/redux, node and loopback.js</li>
<li>my budget is 400€</li>
<li>I don't need a GPU</li>
<li>I'd like to have a good speed while working</li>
</ul>
|
Chromebook or laptop for programming
|
<p>Assuming price is not a concern, neither one has much of an advantage over the other for your purposes.</p>
<ul>
<li>A powered-down laptop hard drive is reasonably shock-resistant: the 500g rating is roughly equivalent to falling off a table onto a concrete floor.</li>
<li>A SSD has a much higher random-access speed than a hard drive, but backup and restore are mostly sequential-access operations, where SSDs don't have anywhere near as much of an edge.</li>
<li>Hard drives have better long-term powered-off behavior. A hard drive pulled out of storage will either power up properly, providing access to all its data, or not power up properly, requiring work by a data-recovery company to provide access to all the data. A powered-off SSD will gradually lose data in an unrecoverable fashion after a few years. This is mostly not an issue for you, since you plan to store the drives at low temperature (which reduces the data loss rate), and you plan to power them up periodically to update the contents.</li>
<li>SSDs handle being turned off and on much better than hard drives do, but again, this is mostly not an issue: being power-cycled 50 times a year is well below the limits for a hard drive.</li>
</ul>
<p>The big advantage hard drives have is still price: a 1TB external hard drive is about $60, while a similar-sized SSD is around $300.</p>
<p>Whichever way you choose to go, make sure your backup plan can handle the failure of one of your external drives. There's no point in having a backup if the backup itself is a weak point.</p>
|
8116
|
2017-09-19T20:09:12.317
|
|hard-disk|ssd|backup|
|
<p><em>(Copied from superuser)</em><br>
With SSDs getting cheaper and more mature, I am thinking of getting some for off-site backups. I would store system images and media backups on it, updated weekly-monthly. The drives would be rarely moved (although some shock tolerance would be welcome), stored at ~20C and powered on only to update the backups (so weekly/monthly). Considering all this, would I be better off with an external SSD or HDD?</p>
<p>(SSDs - consumer grade MLC/TLC, Samsung T5, HDDs - consumer/enterprise grade (not much of a diff anyway) WD, both in under 1TB varieties)</p>
|
HDD vs SSD for semi-frequent backups
|
<p>I ended up buying a used Pixel 2 XL (Google edition). It meets all of my requirements except the MicroSD card, and the "unlockable" rating is "BEST", according to that scale I defined.</p>
|
8117
|
2017-09-19T20:38:04.100
|
|smartphones|android|
|
<p>I'm looking for a smart phone.</p>
<h2>Requirements</h2>
<ul>
<li>unlockable bootloader, excluding the method described as 'bad' below.</li>
<li>compatible with micro SD card</li>
<li>compatible with LineageOS or Replicant (modem works, wifi works, camera works, etc)</li>
<li>multi-touch with at least five pointers</li>
<li>use SIM card</li>
<li>compatible with Cricket Wireless (AT&T's network)</li>
<li>for use in USA</li>
<li><s>$0-$200, hard limit</s> Any price?! I want the cheapest one. :)</li>
<li>Used is OK</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<h3>What <em>legally/easily unlockable bootloader</em> means...</h3>
<p>If you want to put your own OS (that you built) on a smart phone, you need to have an unlocked bootloader. There are different ways to get there. I think some of those methods are good and some are bad.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>BAD</strong> Download some kind of executable from a forum and run it on your PC or smartphone. The program exploits vulnerabilities in your device to unlock it, despite the intentions of the manufacturer.</li>
<li><strong>OKAY</strong> Download the source code for a program, inspect it and build it yourself, then run it on your PC or smartphone. The program exploits vulnerabilities in your device to unlock it, despite the intentions of the manufacturer.</li>
<li><strong>GOOD</strong> The manufacturer offers a free (gratis) service for power users that allows them to unlock the bootloader in their device. Registration is required. Note: LG for example has this service, but <em>only for some models of their devices</em>.</li>
<li><strong>BETTER</strong> The manufacturer offers a program that can unlock your device. Registration isn't required. <em>I think this is how it works for some devices, but I'm not sure.</em></li>
<li><strong>BEST</strong> The device ships with an unlocked bootloader or unlocking can be performed with off-the-shelf software such as the <code>Android SDK</code>. <em>I heard this is how it works for some devices, but I don't know which ones.</em></li>
</ul>
<hr />
<p>Note, this question is similar to this other <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2199/7006">question from 2016</a>. It's a great question with great answers, but there are new devices now...</p>
|
A smartphone with an unlockable bootloader (Sept 2017 edition)
|
<p>I haven't heard of size limitations on a SATA card, but <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124064&cm_re=sata_card-_-16-124-064-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> is a pretty affordable ($30) card with 4 ports. You might have been looking at hardware RAID cards which arent needed unless you really want to do RAID 5 or 6. (These might have size limits) If you really need a RAID card look at <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3913US3588" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>.</p>
|
8125
|
2017-09-22T19:24:24.780
|
|hard-disk|pcie|sata|raid-controller|
|
<p>I’m looking for an affordable SATA PCIe controller card that I can use only PC.</p>
<p>I have 4 x 3TB 3.5” SATA hard drives and want to be able to use them on the new card.</p>
<p>I have read a review of some cards and they say they only support up to 2TB disks. I’m trying to find out what I need to look for for the card to be able to handle big hard disk sizes. </p>
<p>Any recommendations or advice while searching would be great. </p>
<p>Thanks </p>
|
SATA PCIe Controller Card
|
<p>According to the <a href="https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51578.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">manual</a>, page 54 and onwards, you can assign a custom configuration to the scan button. There is a caveat in the manual that says you cannot scan via wireless using the button, but that's not a factor in your question.</p>
<pre><code> Assigning Start Button Settings or Scan Jobs
You can view or change the default scan settings when you scan using
the start button on your scanner.
You do this by accessing the scan jobs in the Document Capture Pro (Windows)
or Document Capture (OS X) program.
</code></pre>
<p>The manual does not provide a screen shot of the page that would allow you to specify double sides, in the pp 54-55 region, but does show such a page elsewhere in the manual.</p>
<p>It is typical for scanner software to allow custom configuration of various buttons on the device. Mediocre software often omits such features.</p>
|
8134
|
2017-09-25T17:00:20.530
|
|scanner|
|
<p>Below is a video of a paper scanner, that scans paper that has print on both sides. See the very beginning of the video. However, I am unable to figure out how to scan both sides of the paper using the scanner buttons themselves. Does anyone know if this is controlled by the hardware or the software? If so, how can this be done?</p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9aPTMRChNw" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9aPTMRChNw</a></p>
|
Two sided paper scans with Epson WorkForce ES-400
|
<p>Go for the 1080. I normally stick to the Power/Costs chart on <a href="https://www.computerbase.de/thema/grafikkarte/rangliste/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.computerbase.de/thema/grafikkarte/rangliste/</a> (for Germany) and normally it's a linear slope until a certain point, where you get less power for much more money, since they make their flagships more expensive for the high-end user.
But at the moment, probably because of crypto-mining, even the cheaper models are more expensive, so that it's more or less a linear behaviour over the full chart. So at the moment, sticking to the 1080 would be more beneficial. However, in future I would go back to that chart and buy the most powerful graphics card, which is still on the linear slope of that chart.</p>
|
8180
|
2017-10-04T06:52:22.373
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I am currently thinking about a new graphics card, for gaming, also for graphics. I am willing to spend around 500 bucks. I saw on alternate.de that some 1080s and 1070s are in a similar price range and I wanted to know what would be better, a cheaper 1080 model or a 1070 model in the same price range.
For example those two:</p>
<p><a href="https://m.alternate.de/mobile/details.xhtml?p=1330180&page=1&t=8406" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://m.alternate.de/mobile/details.xhtml?p=1330180&page=1&t=8406</a>
<a href="https://m.alternate.de/mobile/details.xhtml?p=1280375&page=1&t=8406" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://m.alternate.de/mobile/details.xhtml?p=1280375&page=1&t=8406</a></p>
<p>The 1080 has some higher stats, especially more streaming processors. So I would assume that the 1080 is better. But other 1080s, which cost more are just slightly better, stat wise, so there has to be a reason why this one is cheaper than the others. Both have good reviews. The 1080 seems to be are bit louder, but that's not important to me. Overclocking is also not a priority.</p>
<p>So what do you say would be better?</p>
|
Cheap 1080 or expensive 1070?
|
<p>You don't want to break an E1 (or T1) into individual lines because you will loose the ability to negotiate speed above 33.6k. Make sure the device you get handles analog connections.</p>
<p>USR gear did not play fast with other brands (mainly rockwell). Look at the following names in addition to Ascend Max</p>
<p>Cisco 5200 series
Portmaster
Paton 2960</p>
|
8185
|
2017-10-05T06:11:31.717
|
|networking|server|
|
<p>This question is probably 20 years too late. I have a requirement where a bunch of analog phone lines will connect using dialup modem to my linux/windows server, in order to communicate. Just like we all did prior to broadband. This is for use in remote areas that don't have data connection. The termination on the server side will be ISDN E1. What is the modem hardware used by the ISPs to terminate the E1? I prefer not to demux the whole E1 into 30 analog lines and feed it to analog modems.</p>
<p>Will this work? <a href="https://www.dialogic.com/high-density-modems-e1-t1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.dialogic.com/high-density-modems-e1-t1</a></p>
|
Dial-up hardware for server side
|
<p>Edit 2: There are some products now:
<a href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CJ31DLRT" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CJ31DLRT</a> as an example. There are various vendors who are all selling the seemingly same device. You can also find it on Aliexpress/ebay.</p>
<p>After some years with no developments on this front I had to do it myself.</p>
<p>TP-Link TL-SG108 with some modifications: Soldered some wires to a RJ45 connector. Cut the metal in the back to insert the port. It's not the finest way to do it, especially as there are still some corners, but at least it works.</p>
<p>Some pictures:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1OiSl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1OiSl.jpg" alt="Soldering" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8MxkG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8MxkG.jpg" alt="Back" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLVjT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLVjT.jpg" alt="Connector" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXPHs.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXPHs.jpg" alt="Link" /></a></p>
|
8215
|
2017-10-11T19:58:24.897
|
|ethernet|switch|
|
<p>I am looking for a switch which has at least one port at the back and some 4-5 ports at the front.
Most switches I found either had all ports in the back, with leds on the front.
The other ones had all ports at the front with power being the only thing that is on the backside.</p>
<p>1 Gbps would be idea.</p>
<p>I found this <a href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B003CLIOMU" rel="nofollow noreferrer">switch</a>, but for some unknown reason they have the power connector at the side and only 100 Mbps ports.</p>
|
Ethernet switch with ports at the front and back
|
<p>I think <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MTPF7h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> would be great(I included a monitor too since you didn't specify if you needed it), but I didn't include the storage since I don't know do you need 1TB or 5TB, you didn't specify it. Price without the monitor is ~1500$ which is ~1270 euros. You can take the nVidia 1080 if you are doing much complex work in DaVinciResolve but the 1070 should do the job.</p>
|
8233
|
2017-10-16T13:03:17.940
|
|desktop|windows|video-editing|
|
<p>For work, I professionally edit videos. Right now I am using a Mac Book Pro, but I find it very slow and it's not fitting my workflow anymore.</p>
<p>My idea is to change my hardware and buy a Windows desktop. </p>
<p>What I need basically is a machine that will allow me to work on graphics and video editing. My computer needs to be fast in the rendering operations, analyze my video frame by frame and to compose it back.</p>
<p>I am working on raw files CinemaDNG (lossless formats), and I need a pc that can manage this huge amount of data. Each frame size is from 15 to 20 mega and we have 25 fps. </p>
<p>If it's possible, I would like to spend less than 2000 euros and I am mostly using AdobePremiere, Adobe After Effects and DavinciResolve</p>
<p>What computer will fit my needs right now?</p>
|
PC suggestion for Video editing
|
<p>Just one <a href="http://www.orangepi.org/orangepiplus2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">example</a>: <strong><a href="http://www.orangepi.org/orangepiplus2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The Orange Pi Plus</a></strong></p>
<p>It has - </p>
<ul>
<li>Gigabit ethernet</li>
<li>2 GB RAM</li>
<li>SATA 2.0 interface</li>
<li>TF card slot</li>
</ul>
<p>It doesn't have USB 3.0</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What can I do with Orange Pi Plus2?</p>
<p>Build…</p>
<p>A computer</p>
<p>A wireless server</p>
<p>Games</p>
<p>Music and sounds</p>
<p>HD video</p>
<p>A speaker</p>
<p>Android</p>
<p>Scratch</p>
<p>Pretty much anything else, because Orange Pi Plus2 is open source</p>
<p>Who’s it for?</p>
<p>Orange Pi Plus2 is for anyone who wants to start creating with technology – not just consuming it. It's a simple, fun, useful tool that you can use to start taking control of the world around you.</p>
</blockquote>
|
8234
|
2017-10-16T18:54:12.643
|
|linux|ethernet|
|
<p>I already googled bit around but didn't find something that really fits my expectations... My budget is around $100 and my requirements would be</p>
<ul>
<li>USB 3.0 Port(s)</li>
<li>Gigabit Ethernet (min)</li>
<li>SSD and / or microSD slot</li>
<li>at least 1 GB RAM </li>
</ul>
<p>and would be mainly used for </p>
<ul>
<li>Media Server / LMS</li>
<li>Owncloud</li>
<li>Internal Website</li>
</ul>
<p>Do you know any single-board computers that would fit these requirements?</p>
<p>I'm confused why the most recent versions of Raspberry Pi and similars only have 512 MB of RAM. Is that really enough?? </p>
|
Searching Single-board computer
|
<p>I'd upgrade the CPU and mainboard.</p>
<p>If you were doing workstation graphics work, the i5-2500's onboard graphics would be a substantial downgrade from your Quadro. But the same optimizations that make the Quadro a powerful workstation card make it a poor choice for a gaming card -- even though the HD 2000 has fewer compute cores and shares its RAM with the system, it'll be faster for games than the Quadro.</p>
|
8238
|
2017-10-16T20:53:23.800
|
|graphics-cards|pc|processor|
|
<p>It's my birthday coming up and I'm hoping for some money to put towards my gaming pc build.
The parts of the build that are important to my question are:
i5 2500 + any eBay 1155 mobo
8gb ddr3 (4gb now an extra 4gb later)
GTX 1050ti 4gb</p>
<p>Right now I'm on a Pentium D (one of the higher clocked ones not that it matters) and a quadro fx1700 (modern Intel HD are better) with 4gb ram. </p>
<p>So my question is this, the CPU and mobo with a new PSU and 4gb ram would be £150 roughly (I have a case and hard drive) and the 1050ti would be the same price. Would I get more performance gain by getting everything but the GPU now or by putting the GPU with my Pentium D? Eventually I'll have the i5 paired with the 1050ti but I can't afford it all at once.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
|
What to upgrade first from an ancient system
|
<p><strong>1.</strong> YES</p>
<p><strong>2.</strong> I would recommend 1080p for 24" simply because you will get way more frames per second, and again more PPI, looks better and in this case 1440p with 24" is about 121PPI and 1440p with 27" is about 109PPI so really not much of a difference. Also I think I saw couple of 27" monitors and 2560x1440 at 27" is the same pixel density as 1920x1080 at 24"</p>
<p><strong>3.</strong> It is and for 90% of upcoming games in next 3 years it will be, but then again don't hold my word, we can't predict future tough I reckon you will be able to play them in medium-high settings(in 3 years)</p>
<p>The monitors I would recommend are Dell S2417DG and Asus PG248Q tough I prefer Dell over Asus</p>
|
8247
|
2017-10-18T09:23:28.377
|
|graphics-cards|monitors|
|
<p>My PC is i5-6600K, Gigabyte G1 GTX1070, 16Gb RAM.</p>
<p>At the moment I use two monitors - Dell U2414H for gaming and coding and old Samsung BX2035 for Internet browsing.</p>
<p>I want to buy 144Hz monitor for games and right now Im choosing within Asus PG248Q, Asus PG279Q, Dell S2417DG, Dell S2716DG and AOC AGON AG271QG. Of course Asus PG279Q is the best, but I have to buy it from computeruniverse.com due to hight price in my country so this option has its drawbacks.</p>
<p>The new monitor should become the main one, and U2414H should be used for Internet surfing.</p>
<p>In general, I want to get advice on <strong>which monitor is better in the described situation</strong>, and also I have a few questions:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Is TN really worse than IPS?</strong> I always sit in a lighted room and look at the monitor straight so bleeding is not a problem.</li>
<li><strong>Is 1440p good for 24"?</strong> Will not the text be too small? And if I increase the scale, will there be blurrs due to interpolation?</li>
<li><strong>Is 1440p 144Hz good with GTX1070?</strong> And will it be good in the next 2-3 years?</li>
</ol>
<p>Actually I rarely play in competitve FPS, <strong>maybe I do not need 144Hz at all?</strong> As an example of the games I play: World of Warcraft, Dota 2, Starcraft 2, Civilization 6, Fallout 4, Tomb Rider etc.</p>
<p>I will be glad to any advice or links to articles.</p>
|
Choosing monitor for gaming
|
<p>If it's 8350K vs 7600K, I would go for the 8350K, as it is slightly cheaper and a little better performing.</p>
<p>Even 8100 vs 7400 shows the same scenario.</p>
|
8254
|
2017-10-19T07:50:32.500
|
|processor|
|
<p>I'm about to embark on my 1st self build and want to spec a machine for general home use to include for general office duties, hobby photo editing using elements, organising my music collection and perhaps some light gaming. I had been planning to use a Kaby Lake i5 processor but I wonder if my needs, and some better degree of longevity would be better served by using a Coffee Lake i3 chip? I can't stretch to a Coffee Lake i5.</p>
|
Kaby Lake i5 or Coffee Lake i3
|
<p>I would recommend the following, almost all of these come with Ubuntu/Debian/fork installed by manufacturer :</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://system76.com/laptops/galago" rel="nofollow noreferrer">System76 Galago Pro</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/xps-13-laptop/spd/xps-13-9370-laptop?view=configurations" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell XPS 13 Developer Edition</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/laptops-notebooks/precision-15-5520-laptop/spd/precision-15-5520-laptop?~ck=bt" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell Precision 5520</a></li>
<li><a href="https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-zbook-15u-g2-mobile-workstation-%28energy-star%29-p-v1h63ut-aba--1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP ZBook 15u G3 Mobile Workstation</a> - listed on <a href="https://certification.ubuntu.com/desktop/models/?query=&category=Laptop&level=Enabled&release=16.04%20LTS&vendors=Dell&vendors=Lenovo&vendors=HP&vendors=Intel&vendors=Acer&vendors=Crambo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ubuntu website</a></li>
</ol>
<p>For more choices, I recommend looking at <a href="https://certification.ubuntu.com/desktop/models/?query=&category=Laptop&level=Enabled&release=16.04%20LTS&vendors=Dell&vendors=Lenovo&vendors=HP&vendors=Intel&vendors=Acer&vendors=Crambo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the latest official list of Ubuntu compatible laptops</a></p>
<p>Related questions:</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://askubuntu.com/q/919794/490067">https://askubuntu.com/q/919794/490067</a></li>
<li><a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/2738/9394">What laptop should I buy? (Web Developer, Linux)</a></li>
</ol>
|
8256
|
2017-10-19T10:43:01.897
|
|laptop|linux|development|
|
<p>I'm looking for a new laptop, mainly for fullstack software development. What (I think) I need:</p>
<ul>
<li>Linux (Debian-based, probably Ubuntu or a fork)</li>
<li>Core i7+</li>
<li>16GB+</li>
<li>SSD 256GB+</li>
<li>14"/15"</li>
</ul>
<p>What I don't really care about:</p>
<ul>
<li>Nice-looking laptop</li>
<li>Powerful graphic card</li>
</ul>
<p>I don't have a limited budget, but of course looking for the best value for money. I just want to be comfortable with having multiple DBMS/IDE/browsers/processes running at the same time.</p>
<p>I can find some nice laptops with Linux preinstalled (e.g. by Dell or System76), but they are usually quite expensive ($1,000+). On the other hands, some cheaper laptops seem to fulfill these constraints, but have Windows installed by default. I am concerned about driver issues if I buy a Windows laptop, so laptops running Windows must run Linux without issue. Plus, I already have a Windows laptop, so I won't need a dual-boot on the new one.</p>
|
Buying a Windows laptop, then install Linux on it?
|
<h2>TL;DR: The <a href="http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-24MP59G-P-gaming-monitor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG 24MP59G-P</a>/<a href="http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-24MP59HT-P-led-monitor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG 24MP59HT-P</a></h2>
<p>€250<sup>1</sup> is a pretty massive budget for a monitor of that size and resolution. At this price point, I'd consider decent color (read: IPS) non-negotiable. Since you mentioned gaming and programming (not content creation), I'm guessing perfect color isn't too important though. For that reason, I focused on providing a better gaming experience.</p>
<p>With both of these monitors, you get a 75Hz refresh rate with Freesync. IMO, these features make gaming (even relatively casual gaming) much, much better.</p>
<p>Beyond that, compared to the Dell monitors you suggested:</p>
<ul>
<li>≈€30 cheaper (about <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Dnbkcf/lg-24mp59g-p-238-1920x1080-75hz-monitor-24mp59g-p" rel="nofollow noreferrer">€125</a>)</li>
<li>Slightly thicker bezels</li>
<li>Slightly worse out-of-the-box calibration</li>
<li>Some backlight bleed</li>
<li>Fewer creature comforts</li>
<li>(Monitor-dependent) No built-in speakers or USB hub</li>
</ul>
<p>Given how much room you have left in your budget, it should be within your budget to get a nice USB hub and set of bookshelf speakers.</p>
<p>Between the G and HT models, the difference appears to be in vendors (BestBuy carries only the HT, the G is carried more universally) and inputs (the HT has 2x HDMI and 1x VGA, the G has 1x DisplayPort, 1x HDMI, and 1x VGA.) I'd recommend the G if you can find it (DisplayPort tends to have fewer issues with Freesync.)</p>
<ol>
<li>I don't know know where you live or what actual prices are as a result, so I'll be using USD and converting.</li>
</ol>
|
8258
|
2017-10-19T17:26:03.790
|
|gaming|monitors|
|
<p>I need a monitor for programming, and light gaming. With a price at about 250 euros which is ~290$. My requirements are:</p>
<p>-23.8"-25"</p>
<p>-1080p/1200p</p>
<p>-very thin bezels</p>
<p>I'm deciding between Dell S2415 and Dell U2414H. I would like if you would tell me any other monitors that fit those requirements or help me decide between those 2.</p>
|
Best All-In-One monitor
|
<p>The question <a href="https://superuser.com/questions/1250578/what-exactly-is-the-cause-of-ram-incompatibility">What exactly is the cause of RAM incompatibility?</a> on superuser provides a good overview of possible causes for incompatibility. The answers to the question provide some interesting reasoning.</p>
<p><a href="https://superuser.com/a/1252224/774206">https://superuser.com/a/1252224/774206</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>You might have two RAM sticks with the same part number and one can tolerate a 5% undervoltage and the other can't, and the mobo might put out a low voltage because it's poorly calibrated.
But, again, this is very rare now. Sane combinations almost always work.
Before DDR2, it was a mess. After DDR2, it was sufficiently standardized.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In the follow up discussion <a href="https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/65926/discussion-between-david-schwartz-and-ehryk">https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/65926/discussion-between-david-schwartz-and-ehryk</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>These days, it's almost always the obvious incompatibilities. That is, if it doesn't work, you can usually figure out why. When you can't, the most likely explanation is that some part is just crappy.</p>
<p>In the old days, weird incompatibilities were not that unusual. But since the DDR2 standard, cases of incompatibility not involving one of the explanations mentioned are fairly rare. Most of those cases are likely to be components that are not quite meeting their specifications.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>From another answer <a href="https://superuser.com/a/1252995/774206">https://superuser.com/a/1252995/774206</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>I built many systems throughout my career and I have not once looked at the supported RAM list before I chose the components. And I have never had any incompatibilities so far. That being said, the list can give guidance to beginners and less experienced people to select the correct components to build a good working system.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>From another answer <a href="https://superuser.com/a/1252617/774206">https://superuser.com/a/1252617/774206</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>The answer lies within the memory controller. The memory controller used to be on the north-bridge of the motherboard. It had to negotiate all the features that the CPU supported for direct memory access. So the CPU is really the determining factor that limited what memory you could use even though it appeared to be a motherboard capability. This is more obvious now that the memory controller lives inside the CPU in all modern chips made by Intel, AMD, and ARM. The motherboard firmware contains microcode from the CPU manufacturer that dictates what kind of features for direct memory access it supports. So the software still lives in the motherboard but the hardware is in the CPU now.</p>
<p>The clocking of CPU and Memory are directly linked through the Base Clock. They have to be multiples of each other in sync. Aside from that the details of Direct Memory Access are non-trivial and I will not attempt to explain here. My understanding is that just like MB and CPU manufacturers have different implementations and features, so do different memory modules. Within one memory manufacturer, like Kingston, the actual chips could be made by Samsung, Hynix, or someone else. They should all follow a spec but maybe they don't implement every feature the same way.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>While no answer was accepted, one was given the "bounty"; <a href="https://superuser.com/a/1252970/774206">https://superuser.com/a/1252970/774206</a>. The answer provides some examples of what may cause incompatibility.</p>
<p>Using the</p>
<ul>
<li>(Could not find the specification for INNODISK)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/global/file/product/2017/02/M391A1K43BB1-4.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung datasheet 288pin Unbuffered DIMM
based on 8Gb B-die</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.skhynix.com/product/filedata/fileDownload.do?seq=7112" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SK hynix DDR4 SDRAM Unbuffered DIMM Based on 8Gb M-die</a></li>
</ul>
<p>I have tried to create a comparison table. Mainly for the fun of it :)</p>
<p>My best [uninformed] guess is that with the new CPUs, motherboards and memories the main criteria for memory compatibility is the common referred specifications, and any incompatibility issue is mainly due to "bad luck".</p>
<pre><code> +--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
| INNODISK | SK HYNIX | SAMSUNG |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
| M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93 | HMA82GU7MFR8N-TFT0 | M391A2K43BB1-CPB |
| | (revision 1.2) | |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
chipset | K4A8G085WB-BCPB | H5AN8G8NMFR-TFC |K4A8G085WB-BCPBM00|
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
bandwith | 2133 MT/s | 2133 MT/s | 2133 MT/s |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
frequency | (1066.67MHz) | (1066.67MHz) | 1066MHz |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
voltage | 1.2 | 1.2 | 1.2 |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
rank | Rank 2 | Rank 2 | Rank 2 |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
density | 16GB | 16GB (2Rx8) | 16GB (2Gx72) |
| |1Gx8(H5AN8G8NMFR)*18|1Gx8(K4A8G085WB-BC##)*18|
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
timings |====================+====================+==================|
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
cycle time | 0.93ns | 0.93ns | 0.93ns |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
tCK(min) | | 0.937 | 0.938 |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
CL | 15 | 15 | 15 |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
tRCD(min) | | 14.06 (13.50) | 15 (14.06) |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
tRP(min) | | 14.06 (13.50) | 15 (14.06) |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
tRAS(min) | | 33 | 33 |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
tRC(min) | | 47.06 (46.50) | 47.06 |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
CMD | | | |
+--------------------+--------------------+------------------+
</code></pre>
<h1>Update</h1>
<p>I purchased the <code>M391A2K43BB1-CPB</code> and installed it; the computer boots without any errors, and no errors are reported after test:</p>
<ul>
<li>running MemTest86 (v7.4) 4 to 5 passes (~12h),</li>
<li>running stressapptest (v1.0.8) <code>stressapptest -W -s 3600</code>.</li>
</ul>
|
8264
|
2017-10-20T12:28:19.213
|
|memory|compatibility|
|
<p>I am to purchase RAM for my newly purchased</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P10S-M-WS-IPMI-O" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS P10S-M WS/IPMI-O</a> that supports <code>4 x DIMM, Max. 64GB, DDR4 2400/2133 MHz ECC, Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory Dual Channel Memory Architecture</code></li>
<li>and <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/88175/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1260L-v5-8M-Cache-2_90-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel® Xeon® Processor E3-1260L v5</a> that supports <code>64 GB DDR4-1866/2133, DDR3L-1333/1600 @ 1.35V ECC</code></li>
</ul>
<p>I want to max out the memory to 64GB and planned to puchase four </p>
<ul>
<li><code>16GB ECC unbuffered/UNB/UDIMM</code> RAM.</li>
</ul>
<p>The memory I am interested in is </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/products/dram/pc-dram/ddr4-unbuffered-dimm/M391A2K43BB1?ia=2428" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>Samsung 288pin DDR4 Unbuffered DIMM based on 16Gb</code> (<code>M391A2K43BB1</code>)</a></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>The question is whether the SAMSUNG memory is compatible with the ASUS motherboard.</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/support/tools-utilities/board-compatibility/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung's <code>Support > Tools & Utilities > Board Compatibility</code></a> is not helpful, and strangely does not even list DDR4 memory.</p>
<p>The <a href="http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket1151/P10S-M_WS/QVL/ESC500_G4_SFF_ESC510_G4_SFF_Series_Memory_20170929.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">QVL (Qualified Vendor List)</a> for memory from ASUS does not list <code>M391A2K43BB1-CPB</code>.</p>
<p>Two other Samsung memories are however listed <code>16GB DDR4-2400 Non-ECC/UNB</code> and
<code>8GB DDR4-2133 ECC/UNB CL15</code>; the first not fit for the CPU, and the second will only max out to 32GB.</p>
<p>The only two vendors that are on the list with an acceptable memory specification <code>16GB DDR4-2133 ECC/UNB CL15</code> are INNODISK and Skhynix. Neither of which are available to me for purchase.</p>
<p>I found however that the <a href="http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket1151/P10S-M/QVL/P10S-M_Memory_AVL_20170407.pdf?_ga=2.15965302.1379982056.1508591035-1647655427.1508499099" rel="nofollow noreferrer">QVL for memory for the ASUS P10S-M motherboard</a> lists the <code>Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB</code>.</p>
<p>I noticed that the <em>memory chip</em> for the listed <code>Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB</code> is the same memory chip listed for the INNODISK memory chip; <code>Samsung K4A8G085WB-BCPB</code>.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There are multiple memory companies on the market, but only a few true memory manufacturing companies. When researching different memory brands, you may run across companies that claim to be memory manufacturers, when they're really just module assemblers. How these companies work is that they purchase pre-manufactured parts (such as DRAM chips and printed circuit board) from true memory manufacturers, and then assemble these components to “manufacture” a module with their label on it.</p>
</blockquote>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/store-truth-about-memory-manufacturers" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The truth about memory manufacturers</a></li>
</ul>
<p>If I understand correctly, the listed <code>P10S-M WS/IPM-O</code> INNODB <code>M4CR-AGS1MC0G-BE93</code> is actually more or less the same memory as <code>Samsung M391A2K43BB1-CPB</code>?</p>
<p>Even if they would differ for some reason, I am having a very difficult time to accept that the <code>M391A2K43BB1-CPB</code> -- or really any other memory -- will be incompatible with the motherboard save for some edge cases, such as incorrect manufacturing or assembling.</p>
<p>As this is my first build it would be assuring if someone could confirm my conclusion.</p>
|
Determining memory compatibility
|
<p>Main uses would be</p>
<ul>
<li>Linux OS</li>
<li>Programming (C++)</li>
<li>Virtual machines</li>
</ul>
<p>while your requirements are</p>
<ul>
<li>reliability</li>
<li>price</li>
</ul>
<p>Assuming you want an internal SSD,</p>
<p>I would say that you would in theory want an SSD with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell#Single-level_cell" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SLC</a>, however, they are more expensive.</p>
<p>For example a search on newegg.com for SLC in the range $100-200 resulted in 1 match</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD7H5JF6834" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WD Green M.2 2280 240GB Internal SSD ($147.96)</a></li>
<li>disclaimer I do not use newegg but that was the only international product comparison search I knew that has "power search".</li>
</ul>
<p>In practice, given your intended use, a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell#Multi-level_cell" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MLC</a> based SSD should suffice. A search for MLC in the same range resulted in numerous products. The linked Wikipedia article even states that</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In February 2016, a study was published that showed little difference in practice between the reliability of SLC and MLC.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>(referencing Bianca Schroeder and Arif Merchant (February 22, 2016). "Flash Reliability in Production: The Expected and the Unexpected". Conference on File and Storage Technologies. Usenix. Retrieved November 3, 2016.) </p>
<p>You also need to ensure that the SSD you purchase support</p>
<blockquote>
<p>... the ATA_TRIM command for sustained long-term performance and wear-leveling.</p>
</blockquote>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Solid_State_Drives" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Solid_State_Drives</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>The only thing that I am aware of when using SSD with Linux is to ensure that the file system you use for the SSD supports TRIM. See the referenced <a href="https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Solid_State_Drives" rel="nofollow noreferrer">archlinux link on SSD</a>.</p>
<p>Given your intended use I would say any SSD with SATA revision 3.0 ("SATA 3" or "SATA III") interface should perform well enough.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>You could say the maximum for SATA revision 3.0 is 6Gb/s, and that the maximum for SATA revision 3.2 is 16Gb/s.</p>
</blockquote>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://superuser.com/questions/807226/sata-3-theoretical-speed">https://superuser.com/questions/807226/sata-3-theoretical-speed</a></li>
</ul>
<p>I personally run an external SSD with USB 3.0 (can transfer data at up to 5 Gbit/s that is 625 MB/s according to Wikipedia) from where amongst other things I run virtual machines (Windows 7, Linux). For your stated uses I doubt you will have any performance issues.</p>
<p>If you want to narrow down your search (MLC) in an effort to improve performance then I would recommend considering an SSD with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NVM_Express" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NVMe</a> interface if your motherboard supports it. The same search on newegg adding "PCI-Express 3.0 x4" narrows the search down to about 20.</p>
<p>I recommend searching for reviews or comparison videos for more specific examples. My favorite is <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqaZTwW_X2o&index=3&list=LLWZTE9hZO-zwSYsFBwqG2Rw" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NVMe SSD Review - Which Should You Buy? - 2017 Edition</a>. Notice what he says in the beginning of the review; NVMe is for high-end machines; for mid-range computer see his "SATA SSD" review.</p>
<p>Good luck!</p>
<p><strong>PS</strong></p>
<p>Reading Digital Boffon's comment I remembered that I forgot to mention something about read-write operations -- which would have basically been the same tl;dr as the answer Boffon referenced</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Yes, there's a limit, but you needn't worry about it. You simply won't be able to perform enough read/write operations before you run out of capacity.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>My source however was <em><a href="http://techreport.com/review/27909/the-ssd-endurance-experiment-theyre-all-dead" rel="nofollow noreferrer">"The SSD Endurance Experiment: They're all dead
This is the end, beautiful friend" by Geoff Gasior — 10:22 AM on March 12, 2015</em></a>.</p>
|
8265
|
2017-10-20T13:19:17.477
|
|linux|ssd|virtual-machines|
|
<p>I want to buy an SSD for the specified reasons, and reliability and price are the most important for me. I want to do/learn C++ programming and get to know Linux in a deeper level. My budget would be 155 USD at most.</p>
|
SSD for Linux system with Linux virtual machines
|
<p>You can more easily solve your problem if you divide it in 2 devices. Get any common projector that solves your presentation needs, but with an HDMI input.</p>
<p>With that get an Intel compute stick or a raspberry pi with Wi-Fi, put your OS on that and get remmina running from the network.</p>
|
8266
|
2017-10-20T17:37:36.120
|
|projector|
|
<p>I'm looking for a 1080P capable projector that is also a PC (built-in).</p>
<p>Instead of dedicating a separate computer (to always be hooked up to a projector in the meeting room), it would be nice if I could find a projector that could do remote desktop connections (RDP) to various computers on our LAN, without being hooked up to a separate PC.</p>
<p>This would allow each presenter to present from their own workstation from within the meeting-room, and if the projector is wifi capable, the only cable needed (to be plugged into the projector) is the power cable alone.</p>
<p>It would be even extra cool if I could install Ubuntu Linux 16.04.3 as the operating system and use Remmina Remote Desktop Client to facilitate the RDP connections to the various workstations.</p>
<p>Any recommendations?</p>
|
Projector with Build-in Desktop PC
|
<p>They are all various ways of referring to the same process, which a <a href="https://www.xerox.com/en-us/innovation/chester-carlson-xerography" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xerox engineer invented</a> (hence the name of their company): <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xerography" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xerography</a>.</p>
<p>HowStuffWorks has a decent overview of the process <a href="https://computer.howstuffworks.com/laser-printer.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
<p>So, to directly answer your question, <strong>they all use the same printing technology</strong>.</p>
|
8291
|
2017-10-24T19:22:30.533
|
|printer|
|
<p>My office is buying photocopy machine and we are stuck between the printing technology which is making it difficult to choose one.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.canon.co.in/business/products/multi-function-devices/imagerunner/imagerunner-2520?languageCode=EN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">canon imagerunner 2520</a> has <code>Laser Dry Electrostatic Transfer System</code> </p>
<p><a href="http://www.toshibaphotocopy.com/product/toshiba-e-studio-2309-a-photocopier/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Toshiba Studio 2309A</a> has <code>Indirect Electrostatic photographic</code></p>
<p><a href="https://www.kyoceradocumentsolutions.eu/index/products/product/taskalfa2200.technical_specification.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Taskalfa 2200</a> has <code>laser mono component</code></p>
<p>we are having a very hard time figuring out the difference in these technologies. I have search through the web but didn't find any expalnations.
`</p>
|
Laser Dry Electrostatic vs Indirect Electrostatic photographic
|
<p>I recommend a HP printer, specifically the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01N9YOAZ6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP LaserJet Pro M130nw.</a> Amazon claims to sell it for $99 once you add to cart.</p>
<p>HP has always had the best support on Linux <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/linux/comments/1cjwez/printer_support_is_there_a_brand_that_has_good/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">[1]</a><a href="https://askubuntu.com/questions/102995/what-is-the-best-printer-for-ubuntu">[2]</a><a href="https://help.ubuntu.com/community/Printers" rel="nofollow noreferrer">[3]</a>, and the current open source drivers – which are in the <a href="https://packages.ubuntu.com/search?keywords=hplip&searchon=names&suite=all&section=main" rel="nofollow noreferrer">default Ubuntu repository (main)</a>,* and may even be installed by default^ – claim full support for the M130 series <a href="https://developers.hp.com/hp-linux-imaging-and-printing/supported_devices/index" rel="nofollow noreferrer">[4]</a>. Linux is also listed as a compatible OS on the <a href="http://www8.hp.com/pk/en/products/printers/product-detail.html?oid=9365256#!tab=specs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">specs page</a></p>
<p>It has 802.11 b/g/n as well as 100Base-T Ethernet (and USB 2.0,of course). Print output is 600 dpi maximum, with "FastRes" pixel doubling. Scanning is 600 dpi Colour, 1200 dpi Mono. Unfortunately, there is no autofeeder for the scanner. If you want one, you'll have to pony up for the next higher model. Auto duplex, single pass scanning and colour printing are all at far higher price points</p>
<p>Recommended page volume is 150 to 1500 pre month for both Print and Scan, though maximum duty cycle is 10 000 pages per month. </p>
<p>Its minimum dimensions are 398 × 288 × 231 mm, minimum being when all trays are closed, etc.</p>
<hr>
<p>*"main" means a Canonical maintained package. It likely has the best support.</p>
<p>^if it isn't, just <code>sudo apt install hplip</code> in a terminal or search for it in Synaptic or Software Centre. <code>apt</code> has a nice progress bar.</p>
<p>Also, I'm assuming that laser Mono is preferred over inkjet colour. There may be a relatively affordable inkjet multifunction that also fit the requirements. </p>
|
8323
|
2017-10-30T20:46:05.797
|
|linux|printer|ubuntu|scanner|
|
<p>I search a small printer+scanner device for Ubuntu.</p>
<p>Which device has very good support for Ubuntu? </p>
<p>I want plug+play, I don't want to edit config files by hand or execute complicated shell commands to get it working.</p>
<p>Required features:</p>
<ul>
<li>LAN (optional WLAN) access</li>
<li>Printing (A4 size is enough)</li>
<li>Scanning</li>
<li>Black/White printing is enough - Color is not needed</li>
<li>Size: Not much bigger than 40cm x 40cm x 30xm</li>
</ul>
<p>Boring background:</p>
<p>I have Brother DCP-7055W. The hardware is great: Scanner and Printer in one device and small. Perfect match. Except: Installing the drivers is a pain.</p>
<p>After upgrading to Ubuntu 17.04 the scanner does not work any more.</p>
<p>I want to buy a new device instead of investigating how to get it working. I loved fixing errors like this in the past. But now I have wife, family and other hobbies.</p>
|
Small printer+scanner with very good support for Ubuntu
|
<p>6 years later when I got a dock for different laptop I remembered this and tested.
So USB C 3.1 gen 1 port (now named USB 3.2 gen 1) using powered HP Universal Dock connected to:</p>
<ul>
<li>1080p 60hz monitor with displayport -> HDMI adapter</li>
<li>Ultrawide 1440p monitor up to 100Hz (monitor capable 144hz) with displayport cable</li>
<li>2 usb dongles for wireless mouse and keyboard</li>
<li>usb sound card with 5.1 speakers plugged</li>
<li>ethernet 1Gbps cable</li>
</ul>
<p>Everything except bigger monitor is working fully, that UW monitor working well enough</p>
|
8363
|
2017-11-08T17:03:21.400
|
|usb|hub|display-port|
|
<p>I bought a laptop (ASUS VivoBook Pro 15 N580VD) that comes with a USB type C 3.1 GEN 1 port, that is also a displayport port (little DP icon - like the one in <a href="https://www.displayport.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/devices-stack.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this picture</a>)</p>
<p>I would like to buy a hub with an ethernet port, (at least) 2 displayports/HDMIs, at least one USB type A and at least one USB type c port.
I am concerned that a hub like this won't work since the laptop has a gen 1 port. </p>
<p>What USB 3.1 Gen 1 hubs would work for my laptop?</p>
|
What hubs to use for USB 3.1 gen 1?
|
<p>You can go for either matte surface or anti-glare ones.</p>
<p>The rough matte surface panels are still mostly used in the business notebook segment. The other type of anti-glare computer screens, which uses a chemical coating over a smooth surface to cut down glare, is more used on glare panels to minimize the amount of glare there.</p>
<p>Anti-glare surfaces have a smooth surface but reduced reflection.
Matte has a rough surface and no reflection.</p>
|
8380
|
2017-11-13T12:58:34.037
|
|displays|
|
<p>I currently have a laptop with a display I would describe as "glossy". When the screen is dark you can perfectly see your mirror image. Unfortunately this is often very inconvenient because bad lighting immediately makes the screen unusable. That's why I would like to avoid this for my next purchase.</p>
<p>Can you please tell me what these kinds of matt displays are called so I can properly search for it?</p>
|
What is the opposite of a glossy display?
|
<p>They're both GTX 1070 graphics cards with 8 GB of GDDR5 running at 8.008 GT/s on a 256-bit bus. They both use two cooling fans with similar heatsink setups, require one 8-pin PCIe power connection, and have the same five output connectors. In short, they're virtually identical cards for an identical price of $439.99.</p>
<p>If you're looking for a reason to pick one over the other, the EVGA card is clocked 0.7% faster than the Gigabyte. It's also half an inch shorter and three-quarters of an inch narrower, making for a better fit in a crowded case. The true power draw isn't specified, but the faster clock speed probably corresponds to an increase of 1.5%.</p>
|
8395
|
2017-11-15T14:51:12.903
|
|graphics-cards|
|
<p>I am planning on getting into the Cryptocurrency scene pretty soon, and I plan to mine non-SHA256 coins (i.e coins not like Bitcoin), and therefore I plan to use GPUs extensively, rather than ASIC hardware.</p>
<p>I have a fairly tight budget right now per card, around $450 USD, and AFAIK the GTX 10 Series are the best bang-for-buck for non-Bitcoin coins. I have found these two cards on Amazon (links below)</p>
<p>Card 1 --> <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01KVZBNY0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EVGA</a></p>
<p>Card 2 --> <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B075DF4PTF" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte</a></p>
<p>What I want to know is, which of these cards is better for mining with? Even if it's just a marginal advantage over the other. I want to get the most performance from these cards before I have to replace them later down the line.</p>
<p>I have done research about this question, but have not found any concrete evidence that can help me decide the victor.</p>
<p>Thanks for viewing!</p>
|
Comparing two GTX 1070s for Mining
|
<p>It sounds like the best drive for your circumstances is a <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAEE4TM3941" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3TB Western Digital Green</a>.</p>
<p>Normally, I'd never recommend a WD Green because of severe performance issues (the firmware prioritizes power savings over speed of access). However, since you're using the drive for backups rather than as your main drive, the delays probably won't be an issue. Reliability-wise, the WD Green uses the same hardware as the rest of Western Digital's drives. It's only the firmware that differs.</p>
<p>The drive is $88 from Newegg, which should translate into a UK price within your £50 budget.</p>
|
8404
|
2017-11-18T02:39:21.260
|
|hard-disk|data-storage|windows|
|
<p>I'm in need of a 3.5" 3TB HDD to be used as an all-encompassing backup drive for the rest of my data, as I don't currently have a system in place and that needs to change as soon as possible.</p>
<p>Because the drive will be a backup drive it will be kept hooked up to my desktop but read from and written to less frequently than the average internal HDD, and so it doesn't need to be exceptional quality; however, my personal circumstances mean that I'm on a very tight budget, so it does generally need to be available for under £50 while remaining a reliable drive for the above purposes, and the cheaper it can be found for the better.</p>
<p><strong>Can anyone recommend anything?</strong></p>
|
Cheap, reasonable 3TB internal HDD
|
<p>The Alienware 17 R3 and R4 run on Intel Core i7-6700HQ or i7-7820HK.</p>
<p>These <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/97464" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CPUs</a> run the socket <code>FCBGA1440</code>. Thus it cannot be upgraded, especially not with a desktop-grade CPU.</p>
<ul>
<li>The Pin-count (1440) miss-matches those of the desktop CPUs (1151, 2011).</li>
<li>The CPU is physically soldered onto the board, it cannot be easily removed and even if you would succeed, you'd be back to the first point and these CPUs are just about the most beefy CPUs there are for this socket / power class.</li>
</ul>
|
8412
|
2017-11-19T17:39:35.250
|
|processor|
|
<p>If you can't name just one, name a few. In this case, price does not matter. Thanks.</p>
|
What is the most powerful processor you can use for an Alienware 17 R3 laptop?
|
<p>The <a href="https://www.protoarc.com/collections/trending/products/ek01-advanced-ergonomic-split-keyboard" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ProtoArc® EK01 Advanced Ergonomic Split Keyboard</a> seems to meet all your listed requirements.</p>
<p>(I realize this answer may be a about five years late. However, I don't think a keyboard that with every feature listed existed at the time you posted the question. Even now, the EK01 is still the only keyboard I've seen, so I thought I might mention it, if it should still be of interest to you or others.)</p>
|
8429
|
2017-11-22T16:20:44.783
|
|wireless|keyboards|ergonomics|
|
<p>So I've been looking for a long time and I can't seem to find a keyboard that matches what I want. Maybe I'm in the huge minority or something, but I feel like someone must want this like I do....</p>
<p>Anyways I'm looking for a keyboard that fits the following specifications:</p>
<ul>
<li>Wireless</li>
<li>Backlit</li>
<li>Ergonomic</li>
<li>Full Size</li>
<li>Numpad (Bonus)</li>
</ul>
<p>I currently use a <a href="https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/products/keyboards/natural-ergonomic-keyboard-4000/b2m-00012" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard</a>. I really do like it for a number of reasons, but it's not backlit and it's not wireless.</p>
<p>It's just so that when I'm at my workstation I can set down my laptop and be good to go. I've tried a bunch of online exclusive places like Amazon, NewEgg, etc. and all the big chain places like Fry's and Best Buy. But I haven't seen one... and I'm not saying that I haven't seen some super expensive crazy custom one, or some questionable brand no one has heard of. I'm saying I haven't found a single one at all that has these specs...</p>
|
What backlit ergonomic wireless keyboards options are out there?
|
<h1>TL;DR: Don't. Get an SD card.</h1>
<p>Let's start by taking a tour of your MacBook's I/O: </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dazB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dazB.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>For sake of simplicity and feasibility, we'll explore three options here: USB, Thunderbolt, and SD.</p>
<h3>USB</h3>
<p>Contrary to your original question, you do have USB 3.0! We won't go into it much, but the newer port you're referring to is USB 3.1 Type C. </p>
<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_3.0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB 3.0 has a maximum speed of 5 Gb/s</a>–below <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#SATA_revision_3.0_(6_Gbit/s,_600_MB/s,_Serial_ATA-600)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SATA 3's 6 GB/s</a>, but still above <a href="http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Pro-256GB/Rating/2385" rel="nofollow noreferrer">most (even fairly fast) SSDs.</a> All good then, right?</p>
<p>Unfortunately, through a combination of packet problems, controller issues (either on the computer or enclosure end), and general magic, USB 3.0 <a href="https://macperformanceguide.com/MacPro2013-USB3-performance-limitations.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">just... isn't that fast.</a> I'm not particularly well equipped to say why, and I wouldn't be surprised if more in-depth analysis revealed flawed testing methodology, but that's the fact of the matter... for now. Still, 3.360 Gb/s isn't anything to scoff at, nor is it too far from advertised.</p>
<h3>Thunderbolt 2</h3>
<p>Thunderbolt is kinda the big daddy of external expansion. It advertises 20 Gb/s over a 4x PCI-e 2.0 connection. And for the most part, <a href="https://www.akitio.com/blog/articles/akitio-thunderbolt2-drive-real-world-performance" rel="nofollow noreferrer">it delivers</a>... 11 Gb/s. Akito specifically cites the chipset (rather than the protocol) as the limiting factor. Still, that's enough to handle the fastest SATA SSDs, and even decent PCI-e drives.</p>
<h3>SD[XC]</h3>
<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital#SDXC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SD spec</a> promises speed up to 2500 Mb/s for UHS-II. You won't get that on a MacBook Pro, since the reader is connected over a USB bus–in your case, USB 3. </p>
<p><a href="https://superuser.com/questions/313482/do-memory-cards-have-any-max-file-size-limitation">One thing to note is that the maximum file size you can put on an SD card varies.</a> Normal SD cards support 2GB (avoid!), SDHC cards support 32GB, and SDXC cards support 2TB.</p>
<h1>Choosing your connection</h1>
<p>With this in mind, we get the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>USB enclosure: Lower speed, greater flexibility with drive choice, medium price</li>
<li>Thunderbolt enclosure: Better speed, greater flexibility with drive choice, PCI-e support, high price</li>
<li>SD: Lower speed, lower flexibility with drive choice, low cost, <em>much better portability</em></li>
</ul>
<p>Note that USB and Thunderbolt are fundamentally incompatible specifications; you cannot convert Thunderbolt to USB.</p>
<p>Given that you're using this for secondary storage on a computer with an already very fast SSD and (based on the fact that you said $100-150 was too expensive) price is important, SD cards seem like the way to go. You can <a href="http://a.co/7kqVKJM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">even get ones that lie flush with the rest of your laptop</a>, or <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B012F38H9A" rel="nofollow noreferrer">microSD adapters</a> that allow you to bring your own SD card.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIxkN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIxkN.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Since you haven't provided a specific price or storage requirement, I can't get more specific than that.</p>
<p>If you have no regard for money or physical space considerations, the <a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1322907-REG/sony_sosd128gbuii_128gb_uhs_ii_sd_card.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sony 128GB SF-G Series UHS-II</a> is <a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/computers/buying-guide/the-fastest-memory-cards-money-can-buy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">among the best I know of</a>, and comes with a 5 year warranty and data recovery to boot, though I would advise against this. I would recommend something along the lines of the <a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1249527-REG/sandisk_sdsqxvf_128g_an6ma_128gb_extreme_uhs_i_microsdxc.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SanDisk 128GB Extreme UHS-I</a> and one of those microSD flush-fitting adapters from earlier.</p>
<p>The exception to this is if you want a large amount of storage (256GB+ mostly.) SD cards at this price point are still much more expensive than their desktop counterparts while offering worse performance, though this breaking point will likely change in the future as SSD prices continue to drop.</p>
|
8430
|
2017-11-22T16:33:06.170
|
|usb|pc|ssd|flash-drive|
|
<p>I'm out of space on my Mac so I've been planning to buy an SSD and install some programs there. I know that USB 2.0 has a low bandwidth so there is no point to use SSD through USB 2.0. The question is how do I connect an external SSD drive to my MacBook Pro 2014 that doesn't have Thunderbolt 3 jacks, hence I can't connect USB 3 cord to it. There are some adapters from USB 3 to Thunderbolt 2 that apparently cost about $100-150 so I would avoid buying them if possible.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance!</p>
|
How to connect external SSD to Mac so it doesn't lose speed?
|
<ol>
<li>RAID 0 striping useless no protection</li>
<li>RAID 1 mirroring qty 2 of 1TB gets you 1TB storage</li>
<li>RAID 5 parity data Requires 3 drives and give you the capacity of 2.</li>
<li>RAID 6 parity data(x2) Requires 4 drives and give you the capacity of 2</li>
</ol>
<p>RAID 5 can handle 1 bad drive and 6 can handle 2.</p>
<p>Your budget means if you do RAID 5 you will spend your entire budget on hard drives.</p>
<p>Now what? Well some versions of Windows has a software RAID 5 or 6, and linux offers similar including the ZFS and btrfs file systems.</p>
<p>Reading will not be significantly impacted by software RAID 5 or 6. However, writing will take a big hit in terms of CPU utilization will spike every time you write to it. If your CPU isn't fast enough your write speed will be limited. You will also have less CPU to run your normal programs.</p>
<p>Hardware RAID solves this, but is completely out of your budget range.</p>
|
8438
|
2017-11-24T01:28:42.537
|
|hard-disk|raid|
|
<p>Given that I suspect my PC to have a suicidal behavior, I'm looking for a RAID HDD to save my data safely. I have very old documents that I don't wanna lose.
What are the best solutions for this? Buy 2 HDD and connect them with a dock? A NAS?
I want it to be at least as fast as a normal HDD (so SATA cable, I think), and not too expensive if possible.</p>
<p>EDIT: I want this to cost if possible, less than 200€, and I want at least 1TB of data. I want it to use with my PC (desktop). I want to store various documents like pictures, videos, work files, ...</p>
<p>Thanks! :)</p>
|
Fast and cheap RAID HDD?
|
<p>It's not a board from a traditional server-focused manufacturer, but the <a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Commercial-Servers-Workstations/X99WSIPMI/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus X99-WS/IPMI</a> appears to meet your requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Single LGA 2011v3 socket supporting Xeon E5-16xx CPUs (you may need a BIOS update before you can boot from a Xeon v4, though).</li>
<li>8 RAM slots supporting up to 128 GB of unbuffered DDR4 2133 ECC RAM (and since Asus is a gaming-focused company, you can probably use DDR4 2400 ECC, even if it's not officially supported).</li>
<li>Five PCIe mechanically x16 slots with a mix of x8 and x16 electrical connections.</li>
<li>IPMI 2.0 support.</li>
</ul>
<p>You'll need that cheap video card, though, as it doesn't have onboard graphics.</p>
|
8454
|
2017-11-28T18:22:54.190
|
|motherboard|memory|server|
|
<p>I'm looking at raw memory speed in a setup where RAM bandwidth is important. Right now the servers are using Xeon E5 16xx v3's and v4's with about 96 - 160 GB of ECC RDIMM 2133/2400.</p>
<p>A lot of people ask online about the difference between ECC and Registered RAM, and get told they are completely separate things - I understand the difference and know which RAM I'm asking about :)</p>
<p>In this case, unbuffered ECC (UDIMMs) may be <strong>better</strong> than registered ECC (RDIMMs/LRDIMMs), because I don't need registration or buffering really, the amounts of RAM aren't large enough to justify it, and the speed will benefit from avoiding it.</p>
<p>But my usual motherboard preference, SuperMicro X10 range, state under RAM, that it runs with RDIMM or LRDIMM, <strong>not</strong> UDIMM (or UDIMM with ECC).</p>
<p>Do any server board manufacturers make similar/better/good quality boards (generally viewed as comparable to Supermicro or better), that accept up to 8 slots of <em>unbuffered</em> (UDIMM) ECC? If so, could I have some recommendations?</p>
<p>My usual motherboard spec is something like the Supermicro X10SRi-F: Intel based, 2011-3 single CPU, 8 slots RAM, IPMI, at least 1 PCIe-16 and space for 3 or 4 PCIe-8's, can handle Xeon v3/v4. Ideally allows fully loaded RAM at 2400 not just 2133 and has onboard vga (aspeed etc) but I can always add a cheap video card if not.</p>
|
Xeon 2011-3 motherboards that support *unbuffered* (non-registered) ECC RAM?
|
<p>I'd recommend an <strong>Ivy Bridge</strong> or <strong>Sandy Bridge E3 Xeon</strong>, such as the <strong><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR00L-Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-3-3GHz-Quad-Core-CM8062307262103-Processor/192356627984https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR00L-Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-3-3GHz-Quad-Core-CM8062307262103-Processor/192356627984" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E3 1245</a></strong>. These CPUs are more or less lower clocked i7 chips, and have excellent performance. They will, on average, have a performance between a stock i5 and i7. As shown in <a href="https://www.techspot.com/review/991-gta-5-pc-benchmarks/page6.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these</a> <a href="https://www.techspot.com/review/1089-fallout-4-benchmarks/page5.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">benchmarks</a>, this means that at 1080p, you will easily lock 60 FPS for the latter two games. It is very likely you will be able to achieve a minimum of 60 FPS for the near future (ignoring GPU), except on very CPU heavy games like Assasin's Creed.</p>
<p>As to which Xeon to pick specifically, obviously, the bigger the number, the better. Note that the 1220 and 1225 series do not feature hyperthreading, and you may as well buy the equivalent i5. If you can find an equivalent i7 at under your budget, that would also be an option. Ivy Bridge (v2 or 3xxx) CPUs are more or less equivalent to a Sandy Bridge CPU clocked ~ 100 - 200 MHz faster.</p>
<p>These CPUs require a LGA 1155 motherboard. Check the manufacturer's webpage for compatibility if purchasing a Ivy Bridge CPU.</p>
<h2>Honourable mentions</h2>
<p><strong>Newer platform, similar performance:</strong> The <strong>Ryzen 3 1200</strong> is <em>just</em> under your budget for <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0741DN383" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$99.99 at Amazon.com</a>. At stock, it's about the <a href="http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Xeon-E3-1245-V2-vs-AMD-Ryzen-3-1200/m5622vs3931" rel="nofollow noreferrer">same performance</a> as a higher end IB Xeon but you <em>do</em> get access to some modern bells and whistles on the newer platform. It has an <a href="http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/ryzen_3_1200/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">average overclock of 3.9 GHz</a>, which may give a decent boost to performance. On the other hand, the newer platform has higher costs associated with the RAM and others. The Ryzen CPUs use a AM4 socket.</p>
<p>The new <strong>Coffee Lake i3s</strong> are <em>just</em> out of your price range, but <em>may</em> also be worth considering. The old AMD <strong>FX series</strong> on the other hand, while a decent amount cheaper, $75 for a "6 core" and $90 for 8 – and have attractive looking clock speeds – are definitely to be <strong>avoided</strong>, as they have significantly lower performance due to low IPC.</p>
|
8455
|
2017-11-28T19:02:12.127
|
|graphics-cards|gaming|processor|
|
<p>I'm doing a cost analysis for a friend who wants a "budget" gaming system that run most modern titles on medium to ultra settings with decent fps, like ETS2, GTA5 and Fallout4. </p>
<p>So far, he is dead set on getting 2 GTX 960 4GBs and running them in SLI, which is no problem. The problem I face is that I cannot find a CPU that will work with the SLI configuration whilst minimizing GPU bottlenecking as much as possible. I have the following criteria in place --></p>
<ol>
<li>CPU must have 4 or more cores</li>
<li>CPU can be either AMD or Intel (not really picky here)</li>
<li>CPU must have a base clock greater than 3.2GHz</li>
<li>CPU doesn't have to be brand new, looking to spend max $100 on the CPU itself</li>
</ol>
<p>I have not decided on the motherboard as yet, as I do not have the CPU. Once I have the CPU, then I can move forward from here.</p>
<p>Many thanks </p>
|
Best CPU Generation to work with 2 GTX 960 4GB in SLI?
|
<h3>A <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/POWER9" rel="nofollow noreferrer">POWER9</a>-based computer</h3>
<p>If having an x86-64 architecture is really <em>optional</em> instead of a requirement, there are now desktop motherboards designed around the POWER9 CPU by IBM. I have no affiliation with this company and no experience with the platform but <a href="https://www.raptorcs.com/content/BK1B02/intro.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> is an example of a µATX-based motherboard with a single 8-core (32 thread) CPU and consumer-grade expansions like SATA and PCIe.</p>
<p>The only thing not on the checklist is that it lacks two out of six SATA ports - there are only four. Otherwise there's ECC RAM, AES acceleration, etc.</p>
<h3>Performance</h3>
<p>The POWER9 CPU is used by the two fastest super computers in the world as of <a href="https://www.top500.org/list/2018/11/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">november 2018</a> so it's definitely a powerhorse comparable to the fastest server offerings by Intel and AMD.</p>
<p>Compiler optimizations for the POWER9 is not yet on the same level as the "ultra-tweaked" x86-64 clang/gcc, and certain number-crunching applications currently hand optimized for the x86-64 SSE may still not be as fast but it seems that IBM has people working on this.</p>
<h3>Software/OS support</h3>
<p>As far as I know this is <em>not</em> an option if you want to run Windows, but Linux and FreeBSD supports it, and my OS of choice Debian supports it.</p>
<p>I'm not sure how things like Wine, QEMU or VirtualBox works when trying to run x86 binaries. It is possible that you can get sufficient performance on certain applications with a good JIT-based translator but I have not read anything about it.</p>
|
8469
|
2017-11-30T19:59:18.427
|
|desktop|processor|
|
<h3>Background</h3>
<p>There are numerous <a href="https://libreboot.org/faq.html#intelme" rel="nofollow noreferrer">problems</a> with the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Management_Engine" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel Management Engine</a> and the AMD Platform Security Processor or similar always-on master key "backdoors". Both practical, and (most importantly) <em>ideological</em>.</p>
<p>According to <strike>my extensive research</strike> Wikipedia, all Intel CPUs since 2008 and all AMD CPUs since 2013 have this embedded. Fortunately I don't often upgrade my computer and <em>to my knowledge</em>, my current Intel Core2 Q9400 CPU is not affected. I use Linux exclusively, and use it for electronics CAD and embedded software development.</p>
<p>However, my CPU <em>is</em> starting to feel a bit sluggish, especially when building larger projects from source, and I'm now looking for a replacement. Problem is, it's not easy to find, or maybe I just don't know what to look for?</p>
<p>In short: I'm looking for a CPU to use in my home desktop machine, to run Linux and software development. This means that it's OK if if has a lot of cores because my workload is easy to parallelize.</p>
<h3>Requirements</h3>
<ul>
<li>Faster than an Intel Core2 Q9400 by at least a factor of two</li>
<li>Consumer or "Prosumer" grade ATX-like motherboards available with at least 6 SATA channels and a PCI-e x16 slot</li>
<li><em>Does not have to be available to buy in a store anymore!</em> I'm almost counting on having to suffice with an older model.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Bonus</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X86-64" rel="nofollow noreferrer">x86-64</a> architecture. This is not <em>strictly</em> necessary, although it would make my life a lot easier.</li>
<li>Support for <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECC_memory" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ECC memory</a></li>
<li>Hardware AES acceleration</li>
</ul>
|
Looking to upgrade my CPU while avoiding the Intel Management Engine or AMD Platform Security Processor
|
<blockquote>
<p>It most likely doesn't have an M.2 interface so SATA is the only option I guess.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>You are correct here.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Is there any (performance) difference between SATA and mSATA or is it just a different form factor? </p>
</blockquote>
<p>mSATA is a standard used to map SATA signals onto a PCI-E mini card connector, in order to run hard drives from a PCI-E connection.</p>
<p><a href="http://searchstorage.techtarget.com/definition/mSATA-SSD-mSATA-solid-state-drive" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Source</a></p>
<p>I would not advise trying to force your machine to boost with this method, it adds needless complication according to the threads you linked.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Is there any (performance) difference between SATA and mSATA or is it just a different form factor?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Just a different form factor. It can still only use SATA data transfer protocol, so your throughput limitations are the same between form factors. The big difference from my understanding is where you plug it in.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I don't need SSD faster than motherboard's bus can transfer</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This won't be an issue for you, your bottleneck for data transfer bandwidth doesn't occur here. Since you can't take advantage of the higher-speed PCI-E slot to connect your system boot drive (no M.2 support), you're going to be throttled by the SATA connection limitations anyhow. Don't worry, you'll still get plenty of speed improvement in real-world use.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Considering all the facts I think the best is to buy some SATA III SSD like Samsung 850 Pro (little above 500 MB/s read and write). Am I right?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Samsung has been at the top of the SSD market for a few years. The 850 Pro is about as good as it gets for a 2.5 inch SATA 3.0 drive. I use one in my build and it works great.</p>
<p>If you're shopping around, offerings from Crucial and Kingston can offer competitive real world performance for most workloads at a moderately lower price point. That being said, if you're looking for the best drive on the block that fits your specifications then it's hard to not recommend the Samsung 850 Pro.</p>
|
8476
|
2017-12-01T17:44:54.677
|
|laptop|ssd|
|
<p>I have a <em>Dell Inspiron 7720</em> laptop for a few years and I would like to <strong>buy an SSD disk</strong> for it. Currently, I have an SSD disk used as a cache for HDD disk (using <em>Intel Rapid Storage</em>). I want to remove the current SSD disk, use the new one as a <strong>system boot disk</strong> and the HDD as a data disk.</p>
<p>Since I stopped following new hardware a few years back, I'm not sure what to buy. I don't want you to suggest any particular model, rather just what technology and interface to choose. I want to buy the <strong>best possible</strong> but, of course, my laptop has to be able to use it (e.g. I don't need SSD faster than motherboard's bus can transfer).</p>
<p>So what I have:</p>
<ul>
<li>motherboard: Dell 072P0M (<strong>Intel Ivy Bridge chipset</strong> with <strong>Intel HM77 southbridge</strong>)</li>
<li>2 regular <strong>SATA ports revision 3.0</strong> (i.e. 6 Gb/s), 1 empty (other one used by the HDD)</li>
<li><strong>mSATA port</strong> (used by the SSD which is in RAID with the HDD)</li>
<li><strong>4x PCI Express x1 ports</strong> (it looks like only 2 are currently used (ethernet and wireless cards), although I don't know if there's any connector available inside)</li>
<li><strong>1x PCI Express x4 port</strong> (it doesn't look it used but I don't know if there's any connector available inside)</li>
</ul>
<p>So what to buy? It most likely doesn't have an <em>M.2</em> interface so <em>SATA</em> is the only option I guess. Is there any (performance) difference between <em>SATA</em> and <em>mSATA</em> or is it just a different form factor? It looks that <em>Inspiron 7720</em> cannot boot from the <em>mSATA</em> (there's some weird workaround but probably better not choose it, see <a href="http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/t/19514482" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, <a href="http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/laptop/f/3518/p/19490832/21023607" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> or <a href="http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/inspiron-7720-os-on-the-msata-drive.691645/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>).</p>
<p>Considering all the facts I think the best is to buy some <em>SATA III</em> SSD like <em>Samsung 850 Pro</em> (little above 500 MB/s read and write). Am I right?</p>
<p>Or is there any possibility to use any of those PCI Express ports?</p>
<p>Thank you.</p>
|
Best SSD disk for Dell Inspiron 7720
|
<p>It's amazing how much things have moved on since the OP. PCIe is so versatile. NVMe SSDs are just PCIe devices, which are generally backwards compatible with older PCIe versions or reduced PCIe lanes.</p>
<p>I've successfully used these cheap vertical <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002317519699.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cablecc adapters from Aliexpress</a> to run PCIe 3.0 x4 NVMes in a PCIe 3.0 x1 slot:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AVvsT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AVvsT.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>(Similar items are available from Amazon if you don't want to wait for shipping from China).</p>
<p>Bandwidth is constrained as expected, but still about twice as fast as a SATA SSD:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qserF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qserF.png" alt="WD SN550 1TB in x1 adapter in PCI 3.0 slot" /></a></p>
<p>The x4 adapters also work fine and avoid the bandwidth constraints (when in a x4 or above slot). In fact I've even successfully used a x4 adapter advertised as PCIe 3.0 to run a Gen 4 drive at full speed in a PCIe 4.0 slot:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b33lC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b33lC.png" alt="WD SN850 1TB in x4 adapter in PCI 4.0 slot" /></a></p>
<p>This allows otherwise impossible things like running two PCIe 4.0 x4 SSDs at full speed on a B550m motherboard (moving the GPU into a PCIe 3.0 chipset slot). Windows can even RAID them, not that you'd want to: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/63t50.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/63t50.png" alt="2 x WD SN850 PCI 4.0 x4 striped " /></a></p>
<p>These are passive adapters so will work even on much older motherboards that don't have native M.2 slots (although you probably won't be able to boot from them, unless you are expert at patching BIOSes). For example, I've successfully run a PCIe 3.0 x4 NVMe in a PCIe 2.0 x4 slot</p>
<p>(Even older laptops with PCIe NGFF slots can in theory host other PCIe devices e.g. an M.2 NVMe SSD with a suitable keying adapter, or even an eGPU. Typically this would require sacrificing the internal wifi card in favour of USB wifi).</p>
<p>Beware PCIe adapters that take multiple M.2 drives. They seem to fall into three categories:</p>
<ol>
<li>x4 card with one NVMe slot and one SATA slot (the latter usually a passthrough from a motherboard SATA port - as pictured in another answer)</li>
<li>x4 or x8 card with 2 or 4 NVMe slots, but multiplexing the NVMe traffic through a PCIe switch (reducing your theoretical maximum bandwidth, problematic if you wanted to RAID the cards)</li>
<li>x16 card with 4 true NVMe x4 slots, but relying on PCIe bifurcation support in the chipset and BIOS (usually only available on higher-end boards - although if the chipset supports, it may be possible to patch it into the BIOS).</li>
</ol>
|
8495
|
2017-12-05T06:09:30.040
|
|ssd|pcie|
|
<p>I am trying to find something that is exceptionally weird and bizarre. I want to use a M.2 NVMe x4 SSD in a PCI-Express x1 slot.</p>
<p>x4 NVMe SSDs directly use PCIe bus protocol, and so can be directly plugged into a full-size PCIe slot using a simple passive adapter. But there are four data lines, so these passive adapters are virtually all x4 lane cards.</p>
<p>By specification, all PCIe cards are backwards compatible with the lowest bandwidth x1 lane slots. If the x1 slot is designed with an open end, it is possible to plug a x16 card into it with 15 lanes hanging exposed in midair and unconnected, and it will work. It won't work well but it will work.</p>
<p>So, what I need is a NVMe x4 passive adapter card, which will plug the M.2 into a normal PCIe x1 slot, and leaves the remaining 3 lanes unconnected.</p>
<p>I have been searching the web on and off for months and have not found anything like this yet.</p>
|
M.2 NVMe x4 adapter card for PCIe x1 slot
|
<p>There are the Pentax PocketJet/ Pentax PocketJet 200/ Pentax PocketJet II/ Pentax PocketJet 3, the 200 (200 dpi) or II (300 dpi) at eBay for prices ranging 60 USD and up and they come with an interface that both accepts parrallel ("LPT") and serial ("COM") connection, having the corresponding adapter cable.</p>
<p>Pentax <a href="http://www.openprinting.org/printer/Pentax/Pentax-PocketJet_200" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Pentax PocketJet 200 at openprinting.org">PocketJet 200</a> and <a href="http://www.openprinting.org/printer/Pentax/Pentax-PocketJet_II" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Pentax PocketJet II at openprinting.org">II</a> have <a href="http://www.openprinting.org/driver/pentaxpj/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="pentaxpj driver at openprinting.org">CUPS support</a>.</p>
|
8508
|
2017-12-08T09:43:57.047
|
|printer|portable|
|
<p>I am looking for a thermo printer that can print on A4-wide thermo paper (rolls, like FAX-rolls) and otherwise is quite small.</p>
<p>I do not need an inbuild battery or such, I do not need any wireless data transfer (and I in fact do need some kind of wired data transfer).</p>
<p>Very small ones I only find Brother <a href="https://www.heise.de/preisvergleich/brother-pocketjet-pj-622-pj622z1-a633851.html?plz=&t=v&va=b&vl=de&hloc=at&hloc=de&hloc=pl&hloc=uk&hloc=eu&v=e#filterform%20Brother%20PJ-622" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PJ-622</a> and PJ-623 for under 200 EUR. Aren't there more? Maybe (very) old models? In fact, it's just a telefax without all the telephony stuff ...</p>
|
Looking for an A4-wide cabled portable thermal direct printer, can be old
|
<p>Probably none.</p>
<p>You're most <em>likely</em> using MST - in a very unusual fashion, similar to how <a href="https://superuser.com/questions/845302/what-specs-must-a-graphics-card-have-to-power-a-5k-monitor">5k monitor</a>s, and the old <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_T220/T221_LCD_monitors" rel="nofollow noreferrer">IBM T220 did</a>. Your graphics card likely is aware that its "one monitor with very high refresh rates, and I need to render it as seperate tiles", and I somehow suspect its rendering as 4x1080px120hz 'tiles'</p>
<p>I'm unaware of MST even working on multiple video cards.</p>
<p>In practice, 4k60 gaming on a <em>single</em> video card is tough - so you'd want to take advantage of SLI/Crossfire or the DX12 multigpu options anyway, which still don't need you to plug in the monitor into different cards. </p>
<p>So for regular use, I'm doubtful multiple cards are better than one card capable of presumably handling 2 or more 4k60 monitors. For gaming, you will likely need a eyewateringly powerful setup. </p>
|
8513
|
2017-12-10T17:49:57.950
|
|graphics-cards|multiple-monitors|
|
<p><strong>Background</strong></p>
<p>I'm considering a <a href="http://www.zisworks.com/shop.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">4k monitor with 120Hz support</a> that uses two DP1.2 connectors; they each render half the screen at 120hz, it's effectively two monitors glued together.</p>
<p><strong>Question</strong></p>
<p>For gaming, would I see a performance benefit from using a dedicated GPU for each half of the screen? I'm not sure how this'd work under DX11 or 12.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
|
Dual GPUs for dual monitors, benefits?
|
<p>If you are building a PC, choosing a PSU is quite simple. </p>
<p>Most people do not give importance to find the right PSU. But, I personally consider PSU to be a very vital part of a computer. I myself build my first PC recently and I will share with you how I chose the right PSU. </p>
<ol>
<li><p>Wattage:
The parts that you included has their own power(wattage) requirement. There are other parts of a computer that might require the power from the PSU. So, you got to make of list of all the items in your build - Processor, CPU cooler, Memory, GPU, Case fans, HDD/SDD and any other part that does not have a separate power source. To make the wattage calculation easier, I would suggest that you use <a href="https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this free tool</a>.</p>
<p>I would also recommend that you consider about the possibility of adding newer parts and/or upgrading certain items. </p>
<p>My build required around 300 watts of power. However, I chose a 500 watts PSU. This is because, I might include few parts in future and my power requirement might go up to 400 watts. </p></li>
<li><p>Modular:
This is another major filter. Check this <a href="https://support.nzxt.com/hc/en-us/articles/202798380-Full-Vs-Semi-Vs-Non-Modular-What-Are-The-Differences-" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link</a> to know the basic difference between non-modular, semi-modular and fully modular PSUs. </p>
<p>Non-modular PSUs are cheap but all the cables pre installed(which you cannot remove). Choosing this means you need to work harder on cable management so as to keep good ventilation to your case. If you have a case with a lot of free space, you can go for it. Research about your case to know better. </p>
<p>Then comes semi-modular and fully modular PSUs with limited cables and no cables pre-attached to them. Fully modular is the highest priced. </p>
<p>I had the NZXT S340 elite case. This has lot of space for cable management. So, I chose a non-modular PSU. </p></li>
<li><p>Efficiency:
PSUs are rated like any other devices. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">80 Plus</a> certified PSUs are energy efficient than the ones that are non certified. </p></li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZJYg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZJYg.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
This table will help you with the basic difference between the 80 Plus PSUs. </p>
<pre><code>Some brand try to mislead the consumers by not mentioning the correct 80 Plus details. I would not recommend going for a 80 Plus PSU with no medal attached to it.
I chose a 80 Plus Bronze as it was under my budget and because it suited my limited hours of PC usage.
</code></pre>
<ol start="4">
<li><p>Form Factor:
This depends on your case. If you case supports ATX form factor, choose a ATX PSU and similarly for other form factors. Research about your case to find the right form factor. </p>
<p>I used <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PC Part Picker</a> to check for the compatibility of the various parts of my build. </p></li>
</ol>
<p>One last thing, I highly recommend choosing a PSU that is meant to be sold in your country/region. This is to avoid any issues with the regulations posed for electric/electronic items.</p>
<p>Though I am not an expert, I think I have covered the basics here. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong and/or lacking information. </p>
|
8514
|
2017-12-11T01:50:03.643
|
|desktop|
|
<p>I have these parts, but I am lost because I'm not sure what kind of PSU I need. For the voltage, I can be safe and get a high one, but for the cables included, I don't know what I need.</p>
<ol>
<li>ASRock motherboard Motherboards Z370 PRO4</li>
<li>DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 CPU Cooler</li>
<li>Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 Windforce OC 3GB GDDR5</li>
<li>Seagate 1TB BarraCuda SATA</li>
</ol>
<p>What is the best PSU that I should get my hands on?</p>
<p><strong>EDIT</strong></p>
<p>I have calculated that I need 330w, but to be safe I'll go for 500-550 not higher because i am on a budget.</p>
|
What is PSU that I need?
|
<h1>TL;DR: A used board that supports VT-d if you can find one and are willing to buy used. If not, whatever board is cheapest <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#xcx=0&s=24&sort=price&page=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> and meets your I/O requirements (currently an <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157673&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASRock H81M-HDS R2.0</a> looks like the best option.)</h1>
<p>I'm assuming you've checked and your board is out of warranty and that RMAing it isn't an option. If not, I'd recommend you go that route (though from anecdotal experience, Gigabyte is particularly poor with RMAs.)</p>
<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets#LGA_1150" rel="nofollow noreferrer">First, let's take a look at the various chipsets for the LGA 1150 socket.</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MDnzl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MDnzl.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>You'll notice that as we go down the list, the boards essentially get better. </p>
<p>Straight away, we can ignore some things: since you've got a Haswell CPU with no plans to upgrade, we don't care about having a _97 series board for compatibility purposes. Again, since you have no M.2 devices with no plans to upgrade, we can ignore the _97 series on that front.</p>
<p><a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/75038/Intel-Core-i5-4440-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_30-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Since your CPU doesn't support overclocking</a>, and you have no plans to upgrade, getting a Z series board is unnecessary for overclocking. As such, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cx8rS9_vNDo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">no motherboard will offer a performance boost</a>, assuming it supports your RAM speed, which–based on the tier of the rest of the system–I'm assuming isn't particularly high, and is likely supported by all motherboards.</p>
<p>After that, the main difference is mostly I/O. Your requirements are quite low, and any board at all will fit these requirements (at least 2 SATA 3 ports and one RAM slot.) You mentioned "max 6 USB ports", but didn't clarify if you needed USB 3 on those ports, nor how many were provided by the case. I'll assume for now that 2 USB 3 ports, 4 USB 2 ports, and one USB 2 header is enough, which puts almost any motherboard on the list. I'm also going to assume you want an HDMI port on the motherboard, and that you'd prefer not to get a (<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00ZMVGTA2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">relatively inexpensive</a>) passive DVI to HDMI adapter. You also mentioned wireless keyboard/mouse, but since your current board doesn't have built-in Bluetooth, I'll assume you already have some solution.</p>
<p>However, your CPU does support one interesting technology: VT-d. Basically, it allows you to directly pass through I/O devices (like GPUs) to virtual machines with no* performance degradation. Though it's not for everyone, as a developer, this can be quite useful. <em>Though Wikipedia lists only Q87 boards as supporting VT-d, this is incorrect.</em> <a href="http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/H87M%20Pro4.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">For example, the ASRock H87M Pro4 supports VT-d</a>, as does the <a href="http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/B85%20Pro4.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">B85 Pro4</a>. However, so far, I've been unable to find an H81 board that supports VT-d.</p>
<p>LGA 1150 boards are new enough that there's enough stock lying around that getting a new board won't cost you too much extra while providing you with a warranty and other nice benefits... if you're willing to use a Micro ATX H81 board. This prevents you from using VT-d, and will limit both your I/O and expansion options. Buying other boards new is significantly more costly, with the cheapest not-H81 board currently being a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00D5YK6MK" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ECS B85H3-M at $63.32</a> (<a href="https://d2caf01sdkyx7e.cloudfront.net/dlfileecs/manual/mb/B85H3-M/B85H3-M_MANUAL_V1.0.pdf?Policy=eyJTdGF0ZW1lbnQiOiBbeyJSZXNvdXJjZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vZDJjYWYwMXNka3l4N2UuY2xvdWRmcm9udC5uZXQvZGxmaWxlZWNzL21hbnVhbC9tYi9CODVIMy1NL0I4NUgzLU1fTUFOVUFMX1YxLjAucGRmIiwiQ29uZGl0aW9uIjp7IkRhdGVMZXNzVGhhbiI6eyJBV1M6RXBvY2hUaW1lIjoxNTEzMTA2NzgzfSwiSXBBZGRyZXNzIjp7IkFXUzpTb3VyY2VJcCI6IjAuMC4wLjAvMCJ9fX1dfQ__&Signature=KNSk2A34S79ohw9s3cPhzcBSna7EjNBppMkcxHfZss48FBL~UzzHNwAYWU6DQnJ8n6u5TBE6bnBRow-tttDFkvIp0udLbt0w8MzrukcAB051~dffUFtGMhMte5OCZDMSFzetpTDvOrBbQtll~B2AjKefEieIi1ib4eWwrwOM~kGaSOKYxrvlTLF8PuoNUKjSkdvSIjdMCr75zkngxNMz6dbn2d0xaeC8ELzdhAnQczL~NO8JfVuzBDCiWhq~2OwG4OGFNxs0CN02nD~RCNCJrjHQh5l5NtDYfENUfU0Qy~TPJBHHSgAKz7b0TS3Rt5W13IIvRJHq-xpeUWpRmqWQxg__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAILNLX4TXKMENJUMQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">though it appears to lack VT-d</a>, defeating the main point of getting such a board), followed by the <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138436&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Biostar TB85</a> (again, <a href="http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=734#download" rel="nofollow noreferrer">also apparently lacking VT-d</a>), and the <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gnkD4D/asus-motherboard-b85mgr20" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus B85M-G R2.0 at $96.59</a>, well above <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/b85_atx/1244" rel="nofollow noreferrer">what the used market is at (roughly $40)</a>, while having poor to mediocre I/O selection.</p>
<p>Of course, buying used comes with its downsides. If you want the best value, it will also take some searching–Craigslist and eBay auctions can be a significant hassle (I couldn't find any eBay Buy It Now offers that fit your requirements and were decent value.) If you're not comfortable with that, I'd suggest saving the money and just getting a cheap H81 board, unless you have an immediate use case for VT-d. Those used boards will still be around.</p>
<p>As always, make sure your case will fit the board too!</p>
|
8516
|
2017-12-11T08:36:15.583
|
|motherboard|
|
<p>My Gigabyte GA-B85M motherboard has gone bad. Looking for a better alternative (if possible, around $70).</p>
<p>Looking for a motherboard that supports Intel i5 4440 LGA 1150 and daily task involves software development.</p>
<p>My existing system has following config:</p>
<ul>
<li>1 SSD</li>
<li>1 DVDROM</li>
<li>1 SATA</li>
<li>1 RAM chip - 4GB</li>
<li>Wireless Keyboard/Mouse</li>
<li>D/HDMI display port</li>
</ul>
<p>Need max 6 USB ports</p>
<p><strong>No plan for expansions in the future</strong></p>
<p>I prefer a motherboard with a good price-to-performance ratio which gives a performance boost for software development, but any descent motherboard will work.</p>
|
Motherboard for Intel i5 4440 LGA 1150
|
<p>This one says its 2" by 1.2"</p>
<p><strong>Caution 15 of 46 customers units reviewed on amazon failed.</strong>
43% had no reported issues. However, 46 reviews is hardly statically significant.</p>
<p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0185C5Y0U" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-512GB-Pocket-Solid-State/dp/B0185C5Y0U/ref=sr_1_69?ie=UTF8&qid=1514833350&sr=8-69&keywords=usb+slc</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAERZ6979320&cm_re=usb_slc-_-9SIAERZ6979320-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAERZ6979320&cm_re=usb_slc-<em>-9SIAERZ6979320-</em>-Product</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqTRF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqTRF.png" alt="Enterprise level USB SLC"></a></p>
<p>This is about the smallest I could find. I could only find the 2242 standard and an adapter that is 70X25X9mm. Maybe a smaller adapter can be found.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1tnw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1tnw.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB3-0-LM-741U-TYPE-A-TO-NGFF-SSD-Enclosure-Without-Cable-for-2230-or-2242-MGFF-/263385726440?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB3-0-LM-741U-TYPE-A-TO-NGFF-SSD-Enclosure-Without-Cable-for-2230-or-2242-MGFF-/263385726440?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vb6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0vb6.png" alt="SSD adapter"></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.os-store.com/samsung-32gb-ngff-m-2-ssd-hdd-mz-apf0320-000-mzapf032hcfv-00000-sata-6gb-s-mlc-hard-disk-module-solid-state-drive-2242-22x42mm-laptop.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.os-store.com/samsung-32gb-ngff-m-2-ssd-hdd-mz-apf0320-000-mzapf032hcfv-00000-sata-6gb-s-mlc-hard-disk-module-solid-state-drive-2242-22x42mm-laptop.html</a></p>
<p>Here's an odd ball but its SLC
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/22DXb.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/22DXb.png" alt="swiss"></a>
<a href="https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swissbit/SFSA064GM1AA2TO-I-NC-216-STD/?qs=Uem7cGQRk%252bo2yk0eYtq9ew%3d%3d" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swissbit/SFSA064GM1AA2TO-I-NC-216-STD/?qs=Uem7cGQRk%252bo2yk0eYtq9ew%3d%3d</a></p>
|
8525
|
2017-12-12T16:33:14.730
|
|usb|ssd|flash-drive|
|
<p><strong>Use Case</strong></p>
<p>I have an application where I need to write a lot of data continuously (several GB/day). It needs to fit in a very small package. It will be deployed in very remote places. It will not be easily serviceable and therefore must be reliable. A tiny USB flash drive would be perfect, but... USB Drives typically have a short lifespan if you are writing constantly. Speed is not critical (normal flash write/read speeds are fine).</p>
<p><strong>Question</strong></p>
<p>My question: Does anyone make a USB thumb-drive that is designed specifically for significantly increased write longevity? My ideal would be something like this:</p>
<ul>
<li>Small (no bigger than a couple inches long when sticking out of the USB port. Preferably even smaller (like a stubby drive).</li>
<li>SLC NAND for basic longevity (100,000 write cycles MTTF is typical).</li>
<li>Has write-leveling/spreading to keep from overwriting the same cells too often.</li>
<li>Has a large section of unmapped storage cells that can get mapped in when cells fail (similar to SSD failed-cell mapping techniques).</li>
</ul>
<p>Essentially what I'm looking for is SSD longevity tech in a small USB thumb-drive package.
I have tried every combination of search terms I can think of in Google and have found nothing. Maybe it's just my Google-Fu is failing me? Does this even exist?</p>
<p>Thanks ahead of time!</p>
|
Looking for write-hardened USB with high longevity
|
<p>Have you heard of dc-dc powersupplies? This is definitely up your alley.
You can also grab a portable usb monitor, everything else is up to what you want.</p>
<p>Failing that you can also grab an inverter to run a regular old plug to your pc. Just be careful not to drain your battery completely. Lower power use is better!</p>
|
8529
|
2017-12-13T04:55:33.023
|
|pc|portable|
|
<p>Looking to mount a screen with built-in PC for my car.</p>
<p>Requirements: </p>
<ul>
<li>Able to run Windows </li>
<li>WIFI </li>
<li>Can run on 24 volts power supply from the car </li>
<li>Able to sustain minor temporary voltage fluctuations </li>
</ul>
<p>Touch is not a requirement.</p>
|
24 volt Windows PC with built in screen
|
<p>I have made my decision, after some time. I got the laptop with the GL702VS</p>
|
8533
|
2017-12-14T12:46:49.710
|
|laptop|graphics-cards|gaming|
|
<p>So my daily driver of 3 years, the Lenovo G50-70, is on it's last legs, and I am in the market for a new high-end laptop to replace the G50-70.</p>
<p>I have found these two laptops that fit rather nicely in the my budget of $2000. The problem I face is that I cannot decide which one to choose over the other!</p>
<p>Here is the first Laptop --> <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01N6ZNRZ8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus G701</a></p>
<p>Here is the second Laptop --> <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01N6KLBR1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus GL702VS</a></p>
<p>Here are the specs of the G701</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Core i7-6820HK</p></li>
<li><p>32GB DDR4 RAM</p></li>
<li>GTX 980M 8GB</li>
<li>2 x 256GB SSDs in RAID 0</li>
<li>G-Sync Monitor(17.3")</li>
<li>Price --> $1599 USD</li>
</ul>
<p>And here are the specs of the GL702VS</p>
<ul>
<li>Core i7-7700HQ</li>
<li>16GB DDR4 RAM</li>
<li>GTX 1070 8GB</li>
<li>512GB SSD + 1TB HDD</li>
<li>G-Sync Monitor(17.3")</li>
<li>Price --> $1999 USD</li>
</ul>
<p>The deciding factor for me here is price to performance. On one hand the G701 has 32GB DDR4 RAM pre-installed, with a 512GB SSD included, but sports the 980m 8GB. Where as the GL702VS sports a GTX 1070 8GB, but only has 16GB DDR4 RAM.</p>
<p>What puts me off from the GL702VS is the price of the laptop alone, this doesn't allow me to buy extra addons for it later on, like say a 1TB SSD. So I am leaning towards the G701, mainly due to the fact that I will be able to buy upgrades for it at the same as purchasing the laptop altogether.</p>
<p>I do a lot of 3D rendering for buildings and structures, as I work at a engineering firm, so the GPU is kinda important in that regard, but I also want to game at a moments notice.</p>
<p>Which laptop should I get? The G701 with the older GPU but better spec? or the GL702VS with the better GPU, but lower spec? If not either? Can you recommend me a better spec laptop with a good GPU in it, but at a better price?</p>
<p><strong>On a side note</strong></p>
<p>I have considered a GTX 1080 laptop to satisfy, as well as Quadro workstation laptops, but these are either out of my budget or are not powerful enough to both game and work.</p>
|
GTX 980M 8GB vs GTX 1070 8GB for a new gaming/workstation laptop?
|
<p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117825" rel="nofollow noreferrer">It does not come with a cooler or thermal paste</a>. Since the point of a K skew CPU is overclocking, you'll want a beefy cooler so you can push your CPU to the max.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-coffee-lake-core-i5-8600k-cpu,5264-11.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Tom's Hardware</a> ran benchmarks, and it's clear that the 8600K eats a massive amount of power, especially when overclocked.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CY2Hk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CY2Hk.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I'd recommend a cooler with at least a 105W TDP. The <a href="http://a.co/3ovD3UJ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cryorig H7</a> is rated for 140W and costs only $30, but any cooler that can handle the heat should do.</p>
|
8539
|
2017-12-15T09:51:23.447
|
|processor|
|
<p>I want to know if I need a CPU cooler for my build. I know I do, but is the one included with my i5 8600k enough? Just note that I am on LGA1151</p>
<ol>
<li><p>ASRock Z370 PRO4 motherboard</p></li>
<li><p>Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 Windforce OC 3GB</p></li>
<li><p>Corsair Builder Series VS450, 450 Watt PSU</p></li>
</ol>
<p>So my question is, is the CPU cooler included (if there is one I am not sure) with my CPU enough to support? Or should I get a different one?</p>
|
Should I get CPU cooler?
|
<p>Ryzen has the clear advantage. How good a CPU is isn't only affected by the number of cores. There is much more to CPUs than that. Ryzen does way better in both multi-threaded and single-threaded workloads than any FX chip because of that. Core count is what companies use for marketing as the average user thinks that more cores is always better, which is obviously not the case. Also, as mentioned by previous answers, your rig will be upgradable with Ryzen as AMD will continue to support the AM4 socket for a couple of years.</p>
|
8561
|
2017-12-18T18:55:33.063
|
|processor|linux|processor-architecture|
|
<p>Yo there, Im building a system to use linux, write in latex, documents, databases , programming,, virtualization and watch videos and images (2D) but Im stuck at the processor, between a fx 6300 that Im using in another machine and the ryzen series,
But looking at the specs it seems that the ryzen platform was made more to gaming and fancy graphical use instead of what I intend to do, and the bottom line of ryzen seems to lack enough power to work (I have seen this does not have the virtualization support), so which has better performance, based in the uses described before, the fx6300 based on socket AM3+ or the ryzen series on AM4?</p>
<p>PD. The idea is to have enough punch to work without spending lots of money.</p>
|
Which processor has a better performance the fx series or the ryzen series?
|
<p>After discussion in the comments and some researching, it looks like the best solution is going to be simply expanding my data package to account for wi-fi tethering, and combining that with a simple tablet or other device. I'm actually looking into building my own to make sure I get the power and features I want.</p>
<p>So the solution, in a nutshell:</p>
<ol>
<li>Upgraded data package from my phone provider, for tethering</li>
<li>Home-brewed lightweight device based on a single-board computer (SBD) that can simply be built with everything I need as far as ports, peripherals, screen, etc.</li>
<li>VPN to keep traffic secured</li>
</ol>
|
8579
|
2017-12-20T20:37:19.153
|
|laptop|wireless|tablet|security|4g|
|
<p>I'm looking for a way to connect to the internet through 4G/LTE and have the ability to secure my own traffic, browse primarily text-based sites (read: I don't need serious media streaming capability), while having the portability of a tablet. I don't need anything super-powerful or fast, and I'm open to the idea of having the modem be external or internal.</p>
<p>The main hurdle I've run into is I just don't know what's out there that fits that need, because I've always stuck strictly with a phone on a data package, or a PC on a LAN, so I'm not familiar with everything in between. I know there are (for example) tablets with built-in modems, but I don't know if that's what I should be looking for or if I should get an external modem and hook it up to a cheap tablet/ultra-light laptop. I also don't know which providers have plans that would easily accommodate this (I'm only familiar with Verizon's hot spots and tethering).</p>
<p>The solution should be:</p>
<ol>
<li>Highly portable</li>
<li>Able to use a physical keyboard/mouse</li>
<li>Able to browse the internet at a reasonable speed</li>
<li>Able to route all my traffic through a VPN without any restriction</li>
<li>Preferably able to run Kali or similar</li>
<li>Cost-effective (for example it would be nice if the data plan could scale to my use each month)</li>
</ol>
<p>As stated before, this could be an external modem and device combo, or just a single device with a built-in modem. It should be larger and easier to use for typing/browsing than a phone, but smaller and lighter than a regular laptop. Please make recommendations of devices <em>and</em> providers that could fit the bill, especially if you've used them personally.</p>
|
Discrete mobile internet browsing
|
<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Resolution_and_refresh_frequency_limits_for_DisplayPort" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Per monitor, as that's the maximum a single Displayport 1.4 port can provide.</a></p>
<p>For example, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tAa0qbAYK4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this video</a> show a Titan X (Maxwell) pushing 3x4K displays with the card <a href="https://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-titan-x/specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listing a Maximum Digital Resolution of 5120x3200</a>.</p>
|
8598
|
2017-12-25T20:32:26.003
|
|multiple-monitors|
|
<p>This may be a stupid question, so I apologize up front.</p>
<p>NVidia's website says the <code>Maximum Digital Resolution</code> for my video card is 7680x4320. </p>
<p>Does that mean that is the MAXIMUM resolution it can support for <strong>each</strong> of the 4 monitors? </p>
<p>Or</p>
<p>Does that mean that <strong>combined</strong>, the monitors cannot exceed that resolution?</p>
<p><a href="https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/products/10series/geforce-gtx-1070-ti/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/products/10series/geforce-gtx-1070-ti/</a></p>
|
NVidia GForce 1070 - Multiple Monitors max resolution
|
<p>The manufacturer will usually be right, and it can be limited by the memory slot itself or the motherboard.</p>
<p>And they clearly say:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>DDR3L 1600 MHz SDRAM, 2 GB, <strong>up to 16 G</strong>, (8 GB x 2), 2x DIMM socket,
<strong>DIMM Up to 8 G</strong></p>
</blockquote>
<p>So the only way to really make sure is to buy and test...</p>
|
8605
|
2017-12-27T19:56:53.300
|
|laptop|memory|
|
<p>I'm going to upgrade a laptop <a href="https://www.asus.com/Laptops/N750JK/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus N750JK</a> and plug additional memory in it. My goal is to have maximum available capacity installed, but the specs of the laptop seem to contradict with the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/75027/Intel-Core-i5-4200H-Processor-3M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">specs of the CPU</a> that it has installed (max 32 GB on Intel site vs max 16 GB on Asus). I previously already run into a situation when manufacturer specs are somewhat wrong, but not sure if the motherboard designed so that laptop can see memory more than 16 GB. </p>
<p>In order to figure it out i would like to buy 1 x 16 GB RAM chip, and mix it with existing 2 GB chip, and if the laptop can recognize both, i'll plug another 16 GB RAM, otherwise i can just leave a single 16 GB chip. The problem is that Asus specs also imply in context, that each slot can take up to 8 GB, so i will probably waste my money and time without any luck. Is there any way to check if this laptop supports at least one 16 GB RAM chip without buying it and having it in my hands?</p>
|
Is this laptop compatible with 1 x 16 GM RAM?
|
<h1>TL;DR: Your motherboard + an LSI 9211-8i, or just a motherboard with more SATA ports.</h1>
<h3>Motherboard upgrade</h3>
<p>If you're willing to manage with a slightly lower amount of ports, just get a motherboard with a bunch of SATA ports! The most I know of is 22 on the <a href="http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z87%20Extreme11ac/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASRock Z87 Extreme11/ac</a>.</p>
<p>You'll notice two things though:</p>
<ol>
<li>You can't find this board. Seriously, good luck.</li>
<li>The specifications say "22 x SATA3 (16 x SAS3 12.0 Gb/s + 6 x SATA3 6.0 Gb/s) from LSI SAS 3008 Controller+ 3X24R Expander"</li>
</ol>
<p>Intel only supports up to 6 SATA-III ports on the various <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1150" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LGA 1150</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LGA 1151 chipsets</a>, 10 on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2011" rel="nofollow noreferrer">X99</a> and 8 (???) on <a href="https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/chipsets/desktop-chipsets/x299.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">X299</a> (though the <a href="https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X299-XPOWER-GAMING-AC.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI X299 XPOWER GAMING AC</a> supports 10.) AMD supports 6 on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_AM4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">X370</a> and <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#sort=price&s=36" rel="nofollow noreferrer">X399 apparently caps out at 8.</a> Basically, that ASRock motherboard just has another third party SATA controller built in. That's no fun! </p>
<p>This leads us to the section option:</p>
<h3>Add another SATA controller</h3>
<p>@cybernard has the right idea, but I'm going to disagree with his hardware choice.</p>
<p>Though it's not 100% clear, it seems implied by your post that you don't need hardware RAID support, at least at a controller level. Basically, we just want to present the system with just a bunch of disks (JBOD.) This is going to allow us to save a massive amount of money compared using dedicated hardware RAID card on a card like the Adaptec RAID 71685 (retails for $1120!) which would need to have every drive connected to it (if we used the hardware RAID), since we can continue to use the onboard SATA ports.</p>
<p>To accomplish this, we're going to use a much, much cheaper HBA: the LSI 9211-8i (also known as the IBM M1015, or the compatible Dell Perc H200/H310.)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiAru.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiAru.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>It has 2 x two SFF-8087 mini-SAS connectors, each supporting four 6Gb/s connections (the max for SATA-III) and up to 256 physical devices, and can be easily connected to standard SATA data using <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B012BPLYJC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a breakout cable.</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOJ3G.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOJ3G.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>It's popular, <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/292371003988" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cheap</a> (roughly $40), and–with a little work–supports JBOD. <a href="https://nguvu.org/freenas/Convert-LSI-HBA-card-to-IT-mode/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here's a quick guide on how to set it up.</a> </p>
<p>There's a wealth other cards as well, like the monstrous <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00C7JNPSQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">40-Channel SATA 6Gbps HighPoint Rocket 750</a>, but they're far, far more expensive, and probably overkill for your needs. Remember, you can use multiple cards, and as long as you're not bottlenecking, port multiplication is fine. Internal SATA III 1 to 5 cards can be had as low as <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G2HZ1956" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$60</a>; you don't need a fancy backplane (though if you're into fancy cases with fancy hot swap, <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8557/mini-itx-case-with-10-sata-hot-swap-bays/8577#8577">boy have I got a post for you!</a>)</p>
|
8621
|
2017-12-29T21:44:23.687
|
|usb|data-storage|pcie|sata|
|
<p>I'm setting up a storage server in a typical (albeit very large) computer case. I have like 20 2 TB SATA hard drives, and I want to connect all of them to one motherboard. The most ports I found on a consumer motherboard was 15. Is there some sort of way to get like 20 SATA ports from USB C or PCIe? I don't mind slower speeds because I have SSDs to handle high-speed uploads, and most of the time I am accessing the data from a computer connected through ethernet, which has proved manageable with slower drives. Thanks for the help!</p>
|
15-25 port SATA to USB C or PCIe adapter?
|
<h1>TL;DR: The Ryzen 1700.</h1>
<p>Since you stated server and used gear is out of the question, have no interest in the extra difficulty incurred by programming for GPUs/add in cards like Knight's Landing, and AVX-512 is currently limited to the expensive Skylake-X platform, it's basically a straight comparison of multithreaded performance at that price point.</p>
<p><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu/#X=24362,36592&sort=-cores&k=33,30,28,36&page=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Looking at a list of processors near this price point, the Ryzen 1700X and 1700 come out on top in core count.</a> The only other 8 core is the Xeon E5-2609 V4 which runs at a measly 1.7GHz on the older X99 platform. Intel's similar hexacores at this price point are the i7-6850K and i5-8600k.</p>
<pre><code>Processor | Passmark | UserBenchmark | Userbenchmark FP | Geekbench 4 | Geekbench 4 FP*
––––––––––––|––––––––––|–––––––––––––––|––––––––––––––––––|–––––––––––––|––––––––––––––––
Ryzen 1700 | 13745 | 1120 | 1136 | 20067 | 24993*
Ryzen 1700X | 14619 | 1171 | 1189 | 20987 | 24806*
i7-6850K | 14374 | 946 | 1014 | 21792 | 25820*
i5-8600k | 12811 | 787 | 815 | 22426 | 26724*
</code></pre>
<p><sup>*A note on the Geekbench FP scores: since Geekbench doesn't provide averages for FP scores, I selected a given run with the closest-to-average run on the first page of search results run on a computer with a valid identity on an aftermarket motherboard at stock frequencies. <a href="https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/5992028" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ryzen 1700</a>, <a href="https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/6000778" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ryzen 1700X</a>, <a href="https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/5826916" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i7-6850K</a>, <a href="https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/5979305" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i5-8600k</a>.</sup></p>
<p>As shown by these benchmarks, there's a bit of a smattering of who's on top. Geekbench leans towards Intel's single threaded performance being king, while Userbenchmark leans towards Ryzen's cores. Without a benchmark using your workload, it's impossible to tell exactly how things will bench, but I'm inclined to lean towards more cores with a slower individual clock for your workload.</p>
<p>Since none of these platforms use DDR3, there's no real advantage towards shifting towards one platform based on memory. Though there may be a slight platform cost incurred by the need for faster memory with Zen processors (especially with RAM prices so high right now), this is relatively small and outweighed heavily by the cheaper motherboard cost–A320 is a perfectly valid option since you're not overclocking–though you may find that a slightly more expensive B350 board provides some nice creature comforts for just a few bucks.</p>
|
8640
|
2018-01-01T10:05:19.553
|
|processor|
|
<p>I am choosing a processor for a new PC for parallel floating point computations in R. My tasks are very like Monte Carlo simulations, so the performance is nearly proportional to the number of cores at a fixed frequency. I am not going to overclock the processor. I am choosing between Ryzen 1700 and Core i5-8600k or something of a similar price. What would be the best choice?</p>
|
Best inexpensive processor for R statistical simulation
|
<p>I have the same MB as you P5G41T-M LX with a X5460 porcessor (overclocked from 3.16GHz to 4.0Ghz), 8 Gigs of DDR3 (1333 Mhz) Ram and a GTX1070. All I can say is now I can play some modern games since I swith from the Q8400 to de X5460, games like The Shadow of The Tomb Raider, The Call of Cathulhu, GTA V... The difference is enormous.</p>
|
8645
|
2018-01-01T20:05:41.290
|
|processor|windows|
|
<p>Recently I using Quad Core Q8400 with Asus P5g41t - mlx within FSP Aurum 650 Watt 80 Gold plus. OS Windows 10.</p>
<p>I've planning to upgrade my processor to xeon X5470. I used my desktop to design graphic.</p>
<p>According to this <a href="http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Xeon-X5470-vs-Intel-Core2-Quad-Q8400" rel="nofollow noreferrer">site</a> said Q8400 is the winner. In fact, from the technical specification they are different. I thought X5470 should be the winner.</p>
<p>From ark intel site, Q8400 have specification like this bellow :</p>
<pre><code>Product Collection
Legacy Intel® Core™ Processors
Code Name
Products formerly Yorkfield
Vertical Segment
Desktop
Processor Number
Q8400
Status
End of Interactive Support
Launch Date
Q2'09
Lithography
45 nm
Recommended Customer Price
$179.00
Performance
# of Cores
4
Processor Base Frequency
2.66 GHz
Cache
4 MB L2
Bus Speed
1333 MHz FSB
FSB Parity
No
TDP
95 W
VID Voltage Range
</code></pre>
<p>And X5470 are bellow </p>
<pre><code>Product Collection
Legacy Intel® Xeon® Processors
Code Name
Products formerly Harpertown
Vertical Segment
Server
Processor Number
X5470
Status
End of Life
Launch Date
Q3'08
Expected Discontinuance
Q4'2010
Lithography
45 nm
Recommended Customer Price
$1467.00
Performance
# of Cores
4
Processor Base Frequency
3.33 GHz
Cache
12 MB L2
Bus Speed
1333 MHz FSB
FSB Parity
Yes
TDP
120 W
VID Voltage Range
0.850V-1.3500V
</code></pre>
<p>However why CPUBoss said the Q8400 is winner? Which one the best? if its worth it to upgrade to xeon x5470? Why the price of Q8400 is still expensive if we got the better performance on cheap price? Let say core 2 extreme QX9650 is still more expensive than xeon X5470.</p>
<p>Last but not least, I know x5470 designed to LGA 771 Chipset. My Motherboard on LGA 775. Is it safe to use modded processor? Do i need to update BIOS because recently I've view from Youtube and do some update bios.</p>
|
Quad Core Q8400 vs Xeon X5470
|
<h2>TL;DR: The All New Fire HD 10.</h2>
<p>Since price seems to be a major concern for you, I'm going to sacrifice in it's name. However, I think this should still pass quite fine for what you're doing, if not excellent.</p>
<p>With the Fire, some cons are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Low res screen (only 1920x1200 for a 10.1" device = 224.17 PPI, about 85% of an iPad Pro 10.5" and about 48% of an iPhone X)</li>
<li>Fairly low storage capacity</li>
<li>No cellular capability</li>
<li>Very slightly slow (roughly 75% of the Apple A10X Fusion in the most recent iPad Pro, only 2GB of memory)</li>
<li>Runs Fire OS, and getting "normal" Android things (like the Google Play store) is <a href="https://lifehacker.com/how-to-get-google-play-on-a-kindle-fire-and-install-any-1790706649" rel="nofollow noreferrer">very possible, but takes a bit of extra work.</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Besides that though, it's actually a surprisingly good device. It has an IPS display, proper dual band AC wireless solution, Bluetooth, a microSD slot (a real rarity these days) to mitigate the storage issue, a surprisingly good battery, is very rugged, and <strong>costs a mere $150</strong> for the 32GB model, basically creaming anything at that price point and size. Compared especially to the old Fire HD 10, it's amazing.</p>
<p>Going over your requirements briefly then:</p>
<ul>
<li>Reading PDF files: Yes. It's a Kindle. If there's one thing it can do, it's read books.</li>
<li>Showing pictures to people: Yes, though your app of choice may not be available without a little extra effort.</li>
<li>Browsing the Internet: Yes, and has a pretty good wireless solution to boot</li>
<li>Use a desktop PC remotely: Yes; I recommend <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006LRUVUA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TeamViewer</a>, which is available on the Amazon store as well (free!)</li>
<li>10" screen: Yes</li>
<li>Resolution: Not awful, but not great</li>
<li>Cheap price: Yes, incredibly.</li>
<li>Durability: Yes, it's actually market heavily as a durable tablet.</li>
<li>Battery: It's going to degrade as much as any other lithium-ion (they're all basically the same), but it should do a solid 8-10 hours on a charge. It also won't throttle when the battery begins to degrade too much (looking at you, Apple.)</li>
<li>Reputable retailer: It's literally an Amazon product.</li>
<li>Physical keyboard: Yes, either with the (rather expensive) <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00KYFWDLU" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$60 official flush keyboard</a> or any generic Bluetooth keyboard.</li>
<li>Anti-reflective screen: Very few devices use matte screens these days, your best bet is a matte screen protector. They're available on the extremely cheap (from Amazon as well.</li>
</ul>
|
8646
|
2018-01-01T21:41:48.537
|
|tablet|
|
<p>My notebook stopped working and, seen that I mainly use it as a desktop computer, I'd rather buy a desktop computer this time.</p>
<p>This leaves me with the need to buy a tablet, that will be used for the following tasks:</p>
<ul>
<li>Reading PDF files. The task involves continuonusly switching between different pages (views) and files, without hyperlinks.</li>
<li>Showing pictures to people.</li>
<li>Browsing the Internet, in wi-fi covered areas (and possibly on a stand). Mom will probably browse recipes while cooking, I hope she won't smear the poor thing with food.</li>
<li>Writing in sites like this one.</li>
<li>Use my desktop PC through some app.</li>
</ul>
<p>The only one that is really necessary is the first one, most others I can do at the desktop PC if necessary. As a consequence, I have been suggested to aim for at least 10" and good resolution.
Note how I don't need a camera or phone connectivity and I don't care much about weight or to how the device looks.</p>
<p>I would like to spend as low as I can without sacrificing durability.</p>
<p>The device will be used at home mainly, so a battery that does not degrade over time is better than a battery that lasts a lot for each single charge (and then, power banks to the rescue if it needs be).</p>
<p>The item must be available for sale via Internet, from a reliable supplier (I consider Amazon to be reliable).</p>
<hr>
<p>Feel free to ask me for more details if needed.</p>
|
What's the best tablet for my needs?
|
<p>You can find several Androids with great battery life. The longest seems to be the <strong>ASUS ZenFone 3 Zoom</strong> ($319 <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B06XW6SJF8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">on <strong>Amazon</strong></a>), Which Tom's Guide called in June, <a href="https://www.tomsguide.com/us/asus-zenfone3-zoom,review-4367.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>"Longest Battery Life Ever"</strong></a>. And it is a pretty capable phone in every sense.</p>
<p>Something a bit more expansive and not as good battery life, but still above average, is the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B06ZYGDY4P" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Blackberry -Android running- Key One</strong></a></p>
<p>And at last, if this is such an important thing for you, just take some time and read some guides to familiarize yourself with all the ways to make sure to get out the most of the battery that you have. A guide like <a href="https://www.androidpit.com/how-to-save-battery-life" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>How to make your Android smartphone's battery last longer</strong></a> from the good folks at <strong>Android Pit</strong> can help a lot! And you can even experiment with turning On <strong>Battery Saver Mode</strong> (usually turns On when the phone is low battery) the whole time.</p>
|
8668
|
2018-01-03T16:28:20.360
|
|mobile-phone|battery-life|
|
<p>I am looking for a cell phone with very long battery life. I value long battery life so much that I am willing to sacrifice every feature <strong>except</strong> for:</p>
<ul>
<li>Basic calling/texting abilities</li>
<li><em>Modern</em> (<strong>html5</strong>) web browsing abilities (Must be able to play YouTube, Vimeo, check account balances, browse Wikipedia, etc.)</li>
<li>Would like for it to at least be able to pinpoint my location and show it to me, but turn-by-turn navigation is not needed (i don't even use it when available as eyeballing the map is easy enough)</li>
<li>Must be capable of <s>syncing</s> transferring photograph & audio files to and from Ubuntu</li>
</ul>
<p>I do not care about the operating system or form factor as long as it gets the job done.</p>
|
What cell phone (with some qualifiers) has the longest battery life?
|
<h1>TL;DR: It will run at that speed, and it will be an asset in some workloads.</h1>
<h3>Memory overclocking and XMP</h3>
<p>Intel specifies that their CPUs (here, the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/97129/Intel-Core-i7-7700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_50-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">7700K</a>) are guaranteed to work with DDR4-2133/2400, DDR3L-1333/1600 @ 1.35V. Anything beyond that isn't officially part of their specifications, or guaranteed to work. However, in practice, it will.</p>
<p>What's going on here is overclocking–basically, pushing stuff beyond it's manufacturer rated speeds. This practice isn't unsafe, and, in the case of memory, is basically supported by the manufacturer. Here, the RAM manufacturer certifies that the RAM will work at 2666 MHz. Though the motherboard manufacturer only guarantees that RAM at 2133/2400 MHz will work, <a href="https://www.asrock.com/MB/Intel/Z270%20Killer%20SLIac/index.asp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">it supports overclocking up to 3733 MHz and beyond</a> (and effectively guarantees it will work.) Similarly, Intel allows their CPUs to work with overclocked RAM (and effectively guarantees it will work.)</p>
<p>Because memory overclocking takes work, Intel created something called XMP, or Extreme Memory Profile. Basically, this is a list of settings stored on the memory modules that tell the motherboard what speeds it says it can overclock to and what timings it needs to do so. Most motherboards will then automatically discover and load those settings, though some may require manual configuration. The end result is the same though: the memory runs at its "overclocked" speed.</p>
<h3>RAM speed as an asset</h3>
<p>Though I won't dive into it too much, how much–if at all–RAM speed matters depends on your workload. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This video</a> does a much better job examining it then I could ever do, but the basic conclusion is that it matters a little in some games (more on Ryzen then other platforms) and varies widely for other workloads. If you're building for gaming, don't sweat it too much; if you're building for some other task, Google around and see what other people have experienced.</p>
|
8669
|
2018-01-03T20:06:56.667
|
|motherboard|memory|
|
<p>I am looking at a combo on NewEgg, <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.3579279" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.3579279</a>, that has the following pieces:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake Quad-Core 4.2 GHz</p></li>
<li><p>ASRock Z270 KILLER SLI/AC MB</p></li>
<li><p>CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 3000</p></li>
<li><p>Phanteks Eclipse P400 Series Case</p></li>
<li><p>EVGA 700 B1 100-B1-0700-K1 700W PSU</p></li>
<li><p>250GB SSD, CM H100i V2 Cooler</p></li>
</ul>
<p>I am a bit confused because the i7 and the ASRock motherboard both specify DDR4 2400 RAM.</p>
<p>Looking at other questions I found a link to the Crucial memory and one of the suggested alternatives is Ballistix Tactical 4GB DDR4-2666 UDIMM.</p>
<p>Is the speed, such as DDR4 2400 just a suggestion and faster can be used or what?</p>
|
Can I use DDR4 3000 rather than DDR4 2400 with ASRock Z270 Killer and I7-7700K kaby Lake
|
<p>You'll want a dedicated displayport repeater as cables often break.</p>
<p>Keep in mind the further you go the higher your latency will be, and the more repeater you'll need. Only go this route if you absolutely need it.</p>
|
8672
|
2018-01-04T03:25:00.083
|
|display-port|
|
<p>I can't seem to find any certified cables over 10ft let alone the few that specify a version.</p>
<p>Preferably I need one that is <code>> 10ft</code> but could be <code><= 15ft</code>.</p>
<p>At minimum it just needs to support <code>1.2a</code> but I'd prefer <code>1.3</code> or <code>1.4</code>.</p>
<p>My GPU supports 1.4 but current monitor only supports 1.2 <em>(& AMD FreeSync)</em>.</p>
<p>Cable needs to support <code>2560x1440@60</code>.</p>
|
Longest certified DisplayPort cable that supports AMD FreeSync
|
<h1>TL;DR: Try it first. If it's not enough, trash it, buy a cheap LGA 775 tower and upgrade it.</h1>
<h2>Your old tower</h2>
<p>CS:GO is a pretty lightweight game, and if you really turn everything down, it can run on just about anything. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt6Hv0xtfz8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This guide</a> should allow you to squeeze a little out, and–if you're willing to go a bit farther (though there's been some debate as to if this is VAC safe) <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2WYhqx56OA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this guide</a> should be able to help you get even a potato to run CS:GO.</p>
<p><sup>Normally I would post the information you need (at least roughly) here, but there's simply too much content.</sup></p>
<p>However, there's only so much you can do, and if you're still unsatified with your performance, I can really only recommend getting a different PC.</p>
<p>I'm really not a fan of trashing hardware–anyone who knows me or has read my posts knows I'm a massive fan of upgrading and used hardware. The problem is there's almost nothing that can be done with your PC.</p>
<h3>Problem 1: <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/91532/Intel-Pentium-Processor-J3710-2M-Cache-up-to-2_64-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Your CPU</a></h3>
<p>To put it simply: it's too weak. Sure, it may be a quad core, and sure, it may boost up to 2.64 GHz, but with a 6.5W TDP, it is not a performer. CS:GO is heavily CPU dependent–especially single threaded performance–and this just can't keep up. It scores a mere <a href="https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Pentium+J3710+%40+1.60GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">600 for a single thread in Passmark</a>, getting thoroughly beaten by the 11-year-old Q6660, which scores a <a href="https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Quad+Q6600+%40+2.40GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">924 without overclocking.</a></p>
<h3>Problem 2: CPU upgrade</h3>
<p>You can't. Though the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/91532/Intel-Pentium-Processor-J3710-2M-Cache-up-to-2_64-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spec page</a> doesn't exactly make it clear, looking at some other J3710 equipped motherboards shows they are clearly soldered down.</p>
<h3>Problem 3: GPU upgrade</h3>
<p>HP prebuilt consumer towers are notorious for being annoying to install new GPUs into–however, even ignoring that, I can't recommend a GPU upgrade. There's almost zero information officially from HP as to if this is possible (I couldn't even find a picture of the motherboard), but we can makes some guesses. First, you're hard capped at 90W for your entire system, since as far as I can tell, the PSU is not upgradeable. This, combined with the fact that I wouldn't be surprised if your slot is capped at the lower 25W limit instead of the normal 75W limit as is fairly common among low end prebuilt, means I wouldn't trust anything above a <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=396&sort=price&page=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GT 1030</a> to work. Though weak, the 1030 would still be enough for CS:GO. However, it costs $80–for which price, you can do much better.</p>
<h2>A "new" rig</h2>
<h3>Base platform</h3>
<p>The key here is used components. We're going to start with a base platform. LGA 775 is old enough that they can be found really, really cheap, but is still good enough to provide an entry level experience. My personal choice is the <a href="https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/opti_755_techspecs.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Optiplex 755</a> with the <a href="https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/optiplex_780_tech_guidebook_en.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Optiplex 780</a> in second, but any tower with support for a Core 2 Quad should work just fine. You should be able to find one for sale for $5-25; here's <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/312036494271" rel="nofollow noreferrer">an eBay listing for $17.99</a>. Your best bet to maximize value will be to search Craigslist and your local surplus markets (especially since you'll be able to save all that shipping cost); I find universities often have good stock of these older towers. </p>
<h3>CPU upgrade</h3>
<p>You'll need to check your platform first, but across the board, Core 2 Quads are very cheap. The Optiplex 755 can take a Q6600 (about <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/122877832307" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$8.50</a>), while the Optiplex 780 can take a Q8300 (about <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/152335223246" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$7.00</a>.) You can also try overclocking a hair to squeeze a little more performance using <a href="http://www.overclock.net/t/255892/setfsb-2-0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SetFSB</a>.</p>
<h3>Memory</h3>
<p>Find the cheapest 4GB set of DDR2 available at the minimum speed required by your system. Make sure not to buy ECC or FBDIMM RAM, as these are not compatible. Craigslist may again be useful, or it may not. <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-2GB-Memory-RAM-DDR2-667-MHZ-PC2-5300-Non-ECC-Desktop-PC-DIMM-240-pin-W6H4/263335220576?hash=item3d50009560:g:br8AAOSwSutaEy-y" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here's a 2x2GB set for $8.10</a>.</p>
<h3>PSU upgrade</h3>
<p>Buying cheap power supplies is never a great experience, but it'll have to do. Because there's so much variability, you'll need search around a bit. Check Craisglist and <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">/r/buildapcsales</a>. <a href="https://redd.it/7ng5sm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here's a CX450W for $17.99</a>.</p>
<h3>GPU</h3>
<p>Again, there's going to be a bit of shopping around here–what you can get will also depend on what PSU you got. The <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/9800gt/27386" rel="nofollow noreferrer">9800GT for around $13</a> should do the trick, but I'd recommend the <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/hd_5850/27386" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HD 5850 for around $25</a> if you can spare, or the <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/hd_6950/27386" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HD 6950 for around $40</a> if you'd like to step it up a bit.</p>
<p>With a little time and effort, you've put together a decent little gaming PC for $50-100! I guarantee you this will play better than trying to upgrade your old PC for the same cost.</p>
|
8674
|
2018-01-04T04:29:10.983
|
|graphics-cards|gaming|
|
<p>I bought the HP Pavilion Slimline as an editing computer for my videos (which I record off of my PS4), but I want to get in to PC gaming. I only need to run CS:GO at 720p (hopefully under $100).<br><br>
Here are the specs:</p>
<ul>
<li>Intel Quad-Core Pentium J3710</li>
<li>4GB RAM</li>
<li>Intel HD Graphics</li>
</ul>
<p>And it has an external 90w power supply.</p>
|
Graphics card / power supply for prebuilt PC
|
<h1>TL;DR: Maybe sort of, but not for the reason you're thinking.</h1>
<h3>Memory overclocking and XMP</h3>
<p>Intel specifies that their CPUs (here, the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/88969/Intel-Core-i7-6820HK-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">6820HK</a>) are guaranteed to work with DDR4-2133, LPDDR3-1866, and DDR3L-1600. Anything beyond that isn't officially part of their specifications, or guaranteed to work. However, in practice, it will.</p>
<p>What's going on here is overclocking–basically, pushing stuff beyond it's manufacturer rated speeds. This practice isn't unsafe, and, in the case of memory, is basically supported by the manufacturer. Here, the RAM manufacturer certifies that the RAM will work at 2800 MHz, and the motherboard manufacturer certifies that the motherboard can support overclocking memory to those speeds. Similarly, Intel allows their CPUs to work with overclocked RAM (and effectively guarantees it will work.)</p>
<p>Because memory overclocking takes work, Intel created something called XMP, or Extreme Memory Profile. Basically, this is a list of settings stored on the memory modules that tell the motherboard what speeds it says it can overclock to and timings are required, then loads (usually automatically) those settings. Though this isn't really as important for your system (since it's a prebuilt), the technology is the same as any desktop, and is still applicable if you decide to upgrade your memory down the line. The end result is the same though: the memory runs at its "overclocked" speed.</p>
<h3>RAM speed as an asset</h3>
<p>Though I won't dive into it too much, how much–if at all–RAM speed matters depends on your workload. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This video</a> does a much better job examining it then I could ever do, but the basic conclusion is that it matters a little in some games (more on Ryzen then other platforms) and varies widely for other workloads. If you're building for gaming, don't sweat it too much; if you're building for some other task, Google around and see what other people have experienced.</p>
|
8677
|
2018-01-04T07:52:34.783
|
|laptop|gaming|
|
<p>The <a href="https://www.asus.com/sg/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/ROG-GX700VO/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS ROG GX700VO</a> has the following specs</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/88969/Intel-Core-i7-6820HK-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel i7 6820HK Processor</a></li>
<li>RAM up to DDR4 2800MHz</li>
</ul>
<p>The "Memory Types" of <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/88969/Intel-Core-i7-6820HK-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_60-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel i7 6820HK</a> are stated as "DDR4-2133, LPDDR3-1866, DDR3L-1600", meaning to say the CPU can only support up to RAM speed of 2133. Isnt it a bit overkill to have a DDR4 up to 2800MHz?</p>
|
ASUS ROG GX700VO RAM a mistake?
|
<h1>TL;DR: An Inwin IW-MS04, Fractal Design Node 304, or Silverstone DS380.</h1>
<p>For the purpose of this, I'll be pretty much sticking to 3.5" HDDs–both since that's in the question, and since 3.5" HDDs still contain several advantages. Though high density 2.5" drives are becoming more and more common–@Yisroel Tech pointed out a 5TB drive–they're still not what I'd consider "ready." As of yet, most of these drives are intended as secondary for laptops: high density, 5400RPM, desktop drives (read: not rated for 24/7 usage nor-more importantly–high vibration environments.) They're also generally much more expensive than their 3.5" counterparts, especially given the ability to shuck WD Reds from external enclosures. Though 2.5" drives have also become common in the data center, these are high speed SAS drives, not SATA, and don't really make sense for a desktop build, especially when price is at a premium. In general, they're still also more expensive than their 3.5" counterparts.</p>
<h3>Methodology</h3>
<p>Basically, I went through <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#J=1,20&f=8&t=9,12,10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PCPartPicker's list of Mini ITX cases</a>, then for each case that looked promising, looked up the manufacturer specs on volume. For sake of transparency and record-keeping, here's the table I produced (you'll need something to render Markdown tables with, since StackExchange still doesn't support them.)</p>
<pre><code>Case | Bays | Volume
--- | --- | ---
*[Lian-Li PC-Q26](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fnQRsY/lian-li-case-pcq26a)* | 10 | 34L
**[Silverstone DS380](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BrtWGX/silverstone-ds380-mini-itx-tower-case-ds380)** | 8 | 21.6L
*[Lian-Li PC-Q25](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zth9TW/lian-li-case-pcq25a)* | 7 | 20L
[BitFenix Phenom](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/37mLrH/bitfenix-case-bfcphe300wwxkkrp) | 6 | 31L
*[Fractal Design Array R2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9KrG3C/fractal-design-case-arrayr2)* | 6 | 17.5L
**[Fractal Design Node 304](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BWFPxr/fractal-design-case-fdcanode304bl)** | 6 | 19.5L
*[Lian-Li PC-Q08](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2w2kcf/lian-li-case-pcq08a)* | 6 | 21.3L
[BitFenix Prodigy](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp) | 5 | 26.3L
[Lian-Li PC-Q35](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zv648d/lian-li-case-pcq35a) | 5 | 18L
**[Inwin IW-MS04](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7f7CmG/inwin-iw-ms04-mini-itx-desktop-case-iw-ms04-01-s265)** | 4 | 13.3L
[CHENBRO SR30169](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ncqbt6/chenbro-case-sr30169) | 4 | 16.7L
*[Rosewill Legacy V6-B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KJYXsY/rosewill-case-legacyv6b)* | 4 | 12.6L
[Antec ISK600](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rVh9TW/antec-case-isk600) | 3 | 18.7L
[Cooler Master Elite 110](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QCjG3C/cooler-master-case-rc110kkn2) | 3 | 15L
[Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VrZQzy/cooler-master-case-rc120awwn1) | 3 | 20L
[Cooler Master Elite 130](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6wR48d/cooler-master-case-rc130kkn1) | 3 | 20L
[Cooler Master HAF Stacker 915R](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Xg2kcf/cooler-master-case-haf915rkkn1) | 3 | 32.5L
[Cooler Master HAF Stacker 915F](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hRQypg/cooler-master-case-haf915fkkn1) | 3 | 32.5L
[Thermaltake Core X1](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8238TW/thermaltake-case-ca1d600s1wn00) | 3 | 56L
[Fractal Design Core 500](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LvnG3C/fractal-design-case-fdcacore500bk) | 3 | 19.5L
[Raidmax Element](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HJVBD3/raidmax-case-atx101bup) | 2 | 16L
<s>[Antec ISK 300-65](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2YGkcf/antec-case-isk30065)</s> 2.5"| 2 | 7L
*[Inwin BP671](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fmyFf7/inwin-case-bp671fh200b)* | 2 | 8.2L
[Thermaltake Core V1](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fGvRsY/thermaltake-case-ca1b800s1wn00) | 2 | 45.5L
[Corsair 250D](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gHkD4D/corsair-case-cc9011047ww) | 2 | 28L
[Lian-Li PC-Q19](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bp98TW/lian-li-case-pcq19b) | 1 | 22.5L
*[Silverstone RVZ01B](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b)* | 1 | 14L
*[Silverstone FTZ01](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b)* | 1 | 14L
[Skyreach 4 Mini](https://www.sfflab.com/products/nfc_s4m) | 2x2.5" | 5L
[DR ZABER Sentry](http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/) | 4x2.5" | 7L
[Louqe GHOST S1 MkII](http://www.louqe.com) | 3x2.5" | 8.2L
[DAN Case A4 SFX](https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4_spec.html) | 3x2.5" | 7.2L
</code></pre>
<p>From that, I chose the above four cases, primarily based on drives/volume and availability (since some of the cases have unfortunately been discontinued.)</p>
<h3><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7f7CmG/inwin-iw-ms04-mini-itx-desktop-case-iw-ms04-01-s265" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Inwin IW-MS04</a></h3>
<p>At 13.3 liters with support for 4x3.5" HDDs hidden behind a pretty face, this case is pretty impressive in itself. What's more, these drives are hot swappable. However, this does come at a cost: though it comes with a 265W Bronze PSU, you probably won't be able to upgrade from this if you decide to, since the case only supports Flex ATX power supplies. The $160 price tag doesn't help either. Oh well. Still worth a look if you meet the power requirements!</p>
<h3><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BWFPxr/fractal-design-case-fdcanode304bl" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fractal Design Node 304</a></h3>
<p>At 19.6 liters with support for 6x3.5" HDDs with support for full ATX PSUs up to 160mm in length, this case sure packs a lot into a little package, and for $100, isn't too expensive either. Fractal Design also has an awesome reputation and good looks.</p>
<h3><a href="http://a.co/iKCcujS" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone DS380</a></h3>
<p>Unfortunately @Nicholas Martin got to suggest this before I could, so I'll just have to second the quality of this case. At 21.6 liters with support for 8x3.5" HDDs in hot swap bays, this is the best in drives/volume. It's not too expensive at $150, but you will need a more expensive SFX or SFX-L PSU. Silverstone also has a solid reputation and good looks.</p>
<h3>Discontinued cases</h3>
<p>Sadly, there are several cases which I would have loved to recommend, but are discontinued and out of stock: the <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fnQRsY/lian-li-case-pcq26a" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lian-Li PC-Q26</a>, <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9KrG3C/fractal-design-case-arrayr2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fractal Design Array R2</a>, <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2w2kcf/lian-li-case-pcq08a" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lian-Li PC-Q08</a>, and <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KJYXsY/rosewill-case-legacyv6b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Rosewill Legacy V6-B</a>. If you can find one of these used, they're amazing options, but my guess is they were discontinued due to low volume sales, as they're fairly specialized products.</p>
<h3>Not-quite recommended</h3>
<p>The <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fmyFf7/inwin-case-bp671fh200b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Inwin BP671</a> is a cool little case at a mere 8.2L that supports 2x3.5" drives. However, the bundled 200W TFX PSU is just too weak and too sketchy for my recommendation, and availability of TFX PSUs is quite low.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone RVZ01B</a> and <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone FTZ01</a> are both neat little cases at only 14L, but 1x3.5" drive is just too little for NAS purposes.</p>
<h3>Really small cases</h3>
<p>If you were paying extra close attention, you'll notice at the bottom of my table I listed three cases that don't even support 3.5" drives! Okay, yes, I said I wasn't going to do this, but I had to mention them if not recommend them. They're all <em>extremely tiny</em>, <em>extremely well built</em>, <em>extremely expensive</em> cases. Even though they're not really appropriate for this application, they're interesting to look at.</p>
|
8678
|
2018-01-04T08:03:48.167
|
|server|data-storage|htpc|
|
<p>I am looking for a machine to use as a home server for a few TB of files.<br>
I don't have a lot of physical room so I am looking for the most compact machine as possible.<br>
It is currently not possible to find 2.5-inch drives that can store several terabytes, so the PC should be able to receive one (or several) 3.5-inch drives.<br>
I want to install a few applications on it (media server for example), so a NAS is not a solution. I also don't have enough time to allocate for learning new OSes, and will stick to a Windows machine for now.<br>
Finally since I intend to leave the machine running constantly, a low power consumption, and silent design (fanless) are the last requirements. </p>
<p>What is the most compact PC that fulfills those conditions (silent, several TB storage, runs media servers smoothly)? </p>
|
Smallest PC that can store 3.5-inch HDDs?
|
<h1>TL;DR: Every AM4 ITX board (so far) supports ECC but not RDIMMs</h1>
<p><a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/11697/the-amd-ryzen-threadripper-1950x-and-1920x-review/2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Registered DIMMs won't work on Ryzen, plain and simple.</a> <a href="http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/75030-ecc-memory-amds-ryzen-deep-dive.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ryzen isn't validated for ECC support on consumer chipsets and, as a result, AMD doesn't officially support it.</a> ECC support is however enabled, and certain motherboard manufactures do validate ECC memory.</p>
<p>Here's a list of AM4 ITX boards that have been validated with ECC memory:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/Fatal1ty%20AB350%20Gaming-ITXac/index.asp#Memory" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.adata.com/upload/downloadfile/Datasheet%20-%20DDR4%202133%20R-DIMM-VLP-R-DIMM-ECC-SO-DIMM_201601.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Adata AD4E2133W8G15-BHYA 2133 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.memory4less.com/crucial-server-memory-ct8g4wfd824a-18fb1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Crucial CT8G4WFD824A.18FB1 2400 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
<li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B074F489DP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung M391A1G43EB1-CPBQ 2133 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20X370%20Gaming-ITXac/#Memory" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASRock X370 Gaming-ITX/ac</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.adata.com/upload/downloadfile/Datasheet%20-%20DDR4%202133%20R-DIMM-VLP-R-DIMM-ECC-SO-DIMM_201601.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Adata AD4E2133W8G15-BHYA 2133 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.memory4less.com/crucial-server-memory-ct8g4wfd824a-18fb1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Crucial CT8G4WFD824A.18FB1 2400 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
<li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B074F489DP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung M391A1G43EB1-CPBQ 2133 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/ROG_STRIX_B350-I_GAMING/ROG_STRIX_B350-I_GAMING_DDR4-DRAM_Summit_CPUTestReport.pdf?_ga=2.138516086.415135241.1515101375-704863234.1450079784" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus ROG STRIX B350-I GAMING</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.transcend-info.com/Embedded/Products/No-688" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Transcent TS1GLH72V1H 2133 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/ROG_STRIX_X370-I_GAMING/ROG_STRIX_X370-I_GAMING_DDR4-DRAM_Summit_CPUTestReport.pdf?_ga=2.210482384.415135241.1515101375-704863234.1450079784" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus ROG STRIX X370-I GAMING</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.transcend-info.com/Embedded/Products/No-688" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Transcent TS1GLH72V1H 2133 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=878#memorysupport" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Biostar B350GTN</a>
<ul>
<li>Apacer 78.B1GM4.4020B 2133 4GB UDIMM</li>
<li>Apacer 78.C1GM4.AF10B 2133 8GB UDIMM</li>
<li>Hynix HMA41GU7AFR8N-TF 2133 8GB UDIMM</li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=879#memorysupport" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Biostar X370GTN</a>
<ul>
<li>Apacer 78.B1GM4.4020B 2133 4GB UDIMM</li>
<li>Apacer 78.C1GM4.AF10B 2133 8GB UDIMM</li>
<li>Hynix HMA41GU7AFR8N-TF 2133 8GB UDIMM</li>
</ul></li>
<li><a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-AB350N-Gaming-WIFI-rev-10#support-doc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI (rev. 1.0)</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KVR21E15S8_4.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kingston KVR21E15S8/4 2133 4GB UDIMM</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.kingston.com/dataSheets/KVR21E15D8_8HA.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kingston KVR21E15D8/8HA 2133 8GB UDIMM</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/memory-server-ddr4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Crucial CT4G4WFS8213.9FA1 2133 4GB UDIMM</a></li>
<li>V-Color TE48G21S815 8GB UDIMM</li>
<li>V-Color TE416G21D815 16GB UDIMM</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p><sup>Note that so far this is every AM4 ITX motherboard out there, and I'd expect this trend to continue, so <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=33&f=8&sort=name&page=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">any board here</a> is likely to work.</sup></p>
|
8684
|
2018-01-04T20:30:02.200
|
|motherboard|
|
<p>I'm looking for a m-iitx motherboard that supports registered ecc memory on the ryzen chipset.</p>
<p>Does it exist?</p>
|
M-itx Ryzen board that supports rdimms?
|
<p>If you're doing anything super intensive editing wise I'd go for a quadro, but if you're just splicing clips, making wedding vids and the like a 1070/1080 will do you fine. I think you'll benefit more from single core performance in this build. Go for intel.</p>
<p>One thing to consider are accessories like the palette gear if you do a lot of editing on a regular basis.</p>
|
8686
|
2018-01-05T01:26:53.550
|
|graphics-cards|motherboard|pc|processor|
|
<h3>Overview</h3>
<p>I am trying to build a PC for high-res video editing (2K and a bit of 4K with Premiere Pro), audio manipulation, general use, and a touch of gaming. I want it to look cool, but not sacrifice money or performance for looks. I have done some research and found some parts that I might use, but I need advice to continue. I will probably not overclock my PC.</p>
<h3>Part List</h3>
<p>I made a part list on PCPartPicker, which is <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/v6HCBP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
<h3>Questions</h3>
<ol>
<li>Would you recommend getting thermal paste like <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0045JCFLY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> for the CPU?</li>
<li>Are there any other suggested parts?</li>
<li>Is there a way to keep it as good as it is but make it cheaper? A friend told me I could use a 1070 graphics card instead of a 1080. Would the difference be noticeable?</li>
</ol>
|
A few questions about my PC build
|
<p>That's a leaked capacitor, you could repair it yourself if you are comfortable with that, but hiring a repairman might be more expensie than a new card. Atleast if you're in the usa where labor is more expensive than parts.</p>
<p>I'll post some resources for a diy repair tomorrow, it"s a cheap project to try with a card that isn't going to get any less dead otherwise.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.overclockers.com/how-anyone-can-replace-leaking-capacitors/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.overclockers.com/how-anyone-can-replace-leaking-capacitors/</a>
Here's a quick guide. If you damage the board some solder over the traces should be enough to fix 'er.</p>
<p>As jmy1000 mentioned, if she's under warranty I'd recommend going that route if possible.</p>
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8698
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2018-01-06T04:59:13.150
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<p>I was having issues with my PC so I cracked the tower open. In the process of my investigation I looked at my eSATA card and noticed on the opposite side of the circuit board from the capacitor it appears to have been some dried up substance.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMw9G.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zMw9G.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I believe this issue is unrelated to my original problem, but is this something to be concerned with - and does this warrant a new eSATA card?</p>
<p>Here it the top, with the capacitor in question.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0qIk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0qIk.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
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White substance beneath capacitor. Does this require replacement?
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<h1>TL;DR: Option 3 (way down at the bottom) with a Node 202</h1>
<hr>
<p>Because upgradability and the experience with your son seem to be important to you, I'm going to rule laptops, NUCs, and other prebuilt solutions out of hand. To be clear, this isn't to say that a laptop + evideo card or something along those lines would be a particular poor solution in terms of the end product–I might even argue better–but it seems to conflict with your mission.</p>
<p>With that in mind, it's time to build a SFF PC!</p>
<h1>Point-by-point</h1>
<ol>
<li><p>Your $400-600 budget is <em>plenty</em> to build even a complete machine, so I'll focus on a few options: 1. Kitting out the build with great, new components and a focus on an immediate future upgrade. 2. A solid new platform with money left in the budget to be spent in the future on big upgrades. 3. A "game-now" system using used components to maximize performance on a budget.</p></li>
<li><p>Linux support is virtually universal these days. I won't be focusing on building a computer that's open from top to bottom (if you want to avoid the IME/TPM check out <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8469/looking-to-upgrade-my-cpu-while-avoiding-the-intel-management-engine-or-amd-plat/8538#8538">this post</a>, and read up on Coreboot/Libreboot), as it's both difficult and not really the focus of this question.</p></li>
<li><p>Every system here will boot from day 1. Performance will obviously be the best with the 3rd option.</p></li>
<li><p>We'll come back to this.</p></li>
<li><p>They'll all be small.</p></li>
<li><p>We'll come back to this a bit more later–there's plenty of reasons to go either AMD or Intel, and I'll only focus on performance–but Meltdown and Spectre specifically won't be discussed. <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8697/new-computer-in-light-of-meltdown-and-spectre/8701#8701">While numbers are still coming out</a> and nothing is final, Meltdown's hit appears to be fairly minor in gaming–syscalls is where it hits the worst. Spectre is pretty much architecture aignostic (present on both AMD and Intel chips as well as ARM) with no clear fix, so nothing can really be done there.</p></li>
<li><p>We'll come back to this more later.</p></li>
<li><p>Low power is dependent on what you throw in there, and yes, does slightly clash with light gaming. Quiet is more dependent on form factor. We'll touch on this again more.</p></li>
<li><p>Most computer components these days do quite well on quality. The only places we'll really be concerned with this are the case and used components.</p></li>
<li><p>Peripherals will be covered separately.</p></li>
</ol>
<h1>Case</h1>
<p>The thing about a case is that it's ultimately a matter of taste, and I can't decide that for you. With that, I'm going to provide a range of good cases and let you choose what you like.</p>
<p>That said, I'm going to recommend the <strong>Node 202</strong> on personal preference.</p>
<h2>Very small cases</h2>
<p>These cases are generally described as "artisan": made by specialized companies in low volumes, with extremely good build quality, at extremely high prices.</p>
<h3><a href="http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/#home" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dr. Zaber Sentry</a></h3>
<p><strong>$235 (TBD), 6.9L, 305mm video card, 5x2.5", SFX-L PSU</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrqAV.jpg" alt=""></p>
<p>It's the epitome of a very small case: extremely expensive, extremely tiny, extremely good build quality (primaily powder coated steel), pretty good compatibility with a few things to keep in mind, and runs a bit hot, but generally extremely good. One big issue though: you can't buy one. <a href="https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/849582-where-can-i-buy-a-dr-zabers-sentry-case/?do=findComment&comment=10595833" rel="nofollow noreferrer">They're apparently targeting Q1 2018</a>, but for now, I can't recommend what you can't buy.</p>
<h3><a href="http://nfc-systems.com/skyreach-4-mini/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NFC Skyreach 4 MINI</a></h3>
<p><strong>$199, 5.0L, 215mm video card, 2x2.5", special</strong></p>
<p>It's the smallest case in this category, but with that come some serious compromises. video card compatibility is very limited, drive mounting is limited, and most of all, PSU compatibility is virtually nil, with only two PSUs listed: a <a href="https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$95 400W DC-DC</a> and a <a href="https://www.sfflab.com/products/dynamo-mini-dc-atx-200w" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$58 200W DC-DC.</a> If you really value space, this is the way to go; but otherwise, I'd stay away.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WS1jn.png" alt=""></p>
<h3><a href="https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DAN A4-SFX</a></h3>
<p><strong>$255 (TBD), 7.2L, 295mm video card, 3x2.5", SFX-L</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzwcG.jpg" alt=""></p>
<p>You like shoeboxes? I like shoeboxes! Made under contract by Lian-Li of mostly aluminum, it's (IMO) the prettiest case on this list. But again, it's not for sale yet (just preorders), and I can't recommend what you can't buy.</p>
<h2>Pretty small cases</h2>
<p>These cases are a step up in size from the very small cases, and benefits to match. These are largely cheaper, easier to work with, have better support, and are actually available to purchase!</p>
<h3><a href="https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NCASE M1</a></h3>
<p><strong>$195, 12.6L, 317mm video card, 3x3.5" + 3x2.5", ATX (SFX-L highly recommended)</strong>
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxf4z.png" alt=""></p>
<p>The sort of "daddy" of small cases, the NCASE M1 is the last artisan case on this list, and one of the older ones here. It has incredible support for hardware (even a slimline optical drive!), while being spacious enough to keep things from getting too toasty.</p>
<h3><a href="http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fractal Design Node 202</a></h3>
<p><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GsZ2FT/fractal-design-case-fdcanode202bk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$80</a> or <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XbKhP6/fractal-design-case-fdmcanode202aaus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$130 with a 450W PSU</a>, 10.2L, 310mm video card, 2x2.5", SFX-L</strong>
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/csdkD.jpg" alt="">
It's an extremely popular choice, and a good one! Nothing stands out really except for the very reasonable price.</p>
<h3><a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=533" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone FTZ01</a> <a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ01" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RVZ01</a>, <a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ02" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RVZ02</a>, and <a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ03" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RVZ03</a></h3>
<p><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$85</a> to <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$130</a>, 14L, 330mm video card, 1x3.5" + 2-4x2.5", SFX-L</strong></p>
<p>All very similar with nothing too stand out; the RVZ03 trades the slimline optical slot and 3.5" mount for an extra 4x2.5" mount and RGB lighting.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JL2iZ.jpg" alt="">
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMdoq.jpg" alt="">
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwZ34.jpg" alt="">
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1b1R.jpg" alt=""></p>
<h3><a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone ML08</a></h3>
<p><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bvfmP6/silverstone-case-sstml08b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$70</a>, 12L, 330mm video card, 2x2.5", SFX-L</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWBbG.jpg" alt=""></p>
<p>It's literally based on the RVZ02, but smaller, cheaper, less drive mounting, and with an optional handle!</p>
<h3>Honorable mention</h3>
<p>The Silverstone SG05 and Silverstone SG06 are neat, but the 250mm video card support kills my recommendation. The Fractal Design Array R2, Lian-Li Q09, Raidmax Element, SilverStone SG07 and SG08, and Xigmatek Eris EN6305 are no longer in production, though they would make perfectly good boxes if you can find them.</p>
<h2>Not as small cases</h2>
<p>They're bigger with support for more things! They're also <strong>much quieter.</strong> Carrying handles are a must here, since you said that regular transport was an integral part to this build. These cases seem to have largely fallen out of favor as smaller cases take over the mITX sector, but I've put them here anyways.</p>
<h3><a href="https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BitFenix Prodigy</a></h3>
<p><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$60</a>, 26.4L, 317mm video card, 5x3.5", ATX</strong>
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XARnd.jpg" alt=""></p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZXDgjVY_EI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HardwareCanucks put it best:</a> It's a beautiful chassis at a great price with a few minor compromises for that goal.</p>
<h3>Honorable mentions</h3>
<p>The <a href="http://www.corsair.com/en-us/graphite-series-380t-portable-mini-itx-case" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Corsair 380T</a> is a great case, but unfortunately, it no longer appears to be in production, and second hand prices for it are absurd. The <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qGcMnQ/silverstone-case-sstcs01b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone CS01B</a> is also rather neat, but the 190mm max video card length kills any recommendation. The <a href="https://cougargaming.com/en/products/cases/qbx/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cougar QBX</a> and <a href="http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fractal Design Define Nano S</a> are beautiful and compact, but too large to not have a carrying handle and still be intended as portable IMO.</p>
<h1>Components</h1>
<p>I'll be leaving out case recommendations from these options; choose whatever you think is best. If you end up needing an SFX PSU, use <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#t=10&sort=price&m=337,11,14,106,94,71,63,441,56&e=6,5,4,2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this list</a> and get whatever wattage you need; if you need an ATX PSU, use <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#sort=price&m=337,11,14,106,94,71,63,441,56&e=6,5,4&t=2,4,5&p=1,2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this list</a>. CPU cooler is likewise dependent on case selection, but I'll be using the stock cooler as reference, or the Cryorig C7 when not applicable. I'm allocating about $130 to these parts from the rest of these builds.</p>
<p>Final thoughts: <strong>I would personally go with option #3.</strong> Used components are a great way to get value on a budget.</p>
<h2>AMD vs. Intel</h2>
<p>To keep things simple, right now, on a $/performance basis, on the middle-high end, AMD wins in heavily multithreaded workloads, and Intel wins in single threaded workloads. Intel also wins in power consumption (though most of that will ultimately come from the GPU.) Given that gaming appears to be your intended use case, I'd recommend Intel. That said, I'm going to provide AMD builds as an option anyways.</p>
<h2>Looks</h2>
<p>Because this is likely going to be stuffed in a small case, I didn't bother concerning myself with looks at all. That said, if you do decide this is something important, you can of course tune the parametric filters to have the colors of your choice, and get a heatspreader if the M.2 drive is ugly.</p>
<h2>Option 1</h2>
<p><strong>Great, new components and a focus on an immediate future upgrade.</strong></p>
<h3><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sZvxLD" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel List</a></h3>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3Nef.png" alt=""></p>
<ul>
<li>The CPU is a fairly obvious choice here: the i3-8350K offers fast 4c/4t unlocked for a great price. While Z370 is a tad expensive right now, it offers room to upgrade up to 6c/12t in the future.</li>
<li>Because there's no stock cooler, the Cryorig C7 stands in. As I said before, this will depend on case selection.</li>
<li>Since we've got an unlocked processor, we'll want a Z series board. Wi-Fi is nice while on the go, and not much more expensive, so with a little parametric filtering, we arrive that the ASRock Z370M-ITX/ac.</li>
<li>RAM here is a bit funny. Normally I recommend "get whatever's cheapest!", as <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAM speed (for most workloads) doesn't make enough of an impact to justify the additional price that comes with faster memory</a>. However, because we'll be relying on integrated graphics for a little while, I decided the fairly low bump to 2666 was worth it.</li>
<li><a href="http://ssd.userbenchmark.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The 850 EVO is fairly fast, and quite good value.</a> I chose an M.2 drive as minimizing the number of cables you have to deal with in a small form factor PC is really quite nice. You're paying a bit of a premium (roughly $20), but I think it's worth it. If you don't care, feel free to step down to a SATA drive.</li>
</ul>
<h3><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZHsNkT" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AMD List</a></h3>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9JQG.png" alt=""></p>
<ul>
<li>RAM and storage remain the same as the Intel build.</li>
<li>Ryzen's performance scales about as you'd expect as you head up the line. Though Ryzen 3s are also quad cores (even with higher clocks!), because of the CCX layout, the 1400 slots into the stack about where you'd expect. It's not beating an i3-8350K, but hey–it's Ryzen.</li>
<li>Options for AM4 ITX boards–even compared to the limited options on Z370–are pretty sparse. Limiting it to ITX with Wi-Fi squeezed it down to a total of three boards. I picked the cheapest from there–however, I'm not a big fan of Gigabyte. Their products are perfectly good, but their support is awful–it took me about a year to get an RMA from them. If you're willing to do the extra $20, I'd get the <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nG98TW/asrock-ab350-gaming-itxac-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-ab350-gaming-itxac" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac.</a></li>
<li>Ryzen unfortunately lacks integrated graphics. This means we're stuck buying a GPU we don't really want, which with our budget, basically leaves the GT 1030. Don't get me wrong, it's a card with a place (read: low wattage)–but spending $75 on one isn't a great use of money IMO. I'd rather get a used card, <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/HD7870/27386" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like the HD 7870 for around $68</a>, or even a <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/GTX_460/27386" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GTX 460 for around $25.</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Option 2.</h2>
<p><strong>A new platform with money left in the budget to be spent in the future on big upgrades</strong></p>
<h3>Intel List</h3>
<p>Intel unfortunately just doesn't have a CPU in the Coffee Lake lineup at this price point, so no build from them there. I'm not going to recommend last-gen hardware in a build for which upgradability is the main selling point either.</p>
<h3><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/twHgd6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AMD List</a></h3>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gKAp.png" alt=""></p>
<ul>
<li>The CPU has been stepped down to a 4c/4t Bulldozer APU. It's not going to provide amazing performance, but it'll do, and we can keep our board around for an upgrade.</li>
<li>The board needs to support integrated graphics as well now, but we ended up with the same board anyways. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ </li>
<li>Memory remains the same</li>
<li>I've stepped the storage down to a 1TB hybrid drive. It's not perfect, but it'll do for a while, and make for a great secondary drive in the future after upgrading to a pure SSD for the boot drive.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Option 3.</h2>
<p><strong>A "game-now" system using used components to maximize performance on a budget.</strong></p>
<h3>Intel List</h3>
<p>Okay, there's no neat PCPartPicker list for this, but that's what happens with used components.</p>
<ul>
<li>CPU | Intel X3440 Quad Core 2.53GHz LGA 1156 | <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180115224359&SearchText=x3440" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$16</a>
<ul>
<li>It's an overclockable 4c/8t for $16. What more can you want? Well, SATA 3 support–but this isn't going to bottleneck except in sequential reads, and even then, <a href="http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Samsung-850-Evo-250GB/Rating/2977" rel="nofollow noreferrer">it won't be too bad.</a></li>
</ul></li>
<li>Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 | <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=GA-H55N-USB3&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=0&LH_Sold=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=15&_stpos=97291&_sargn=-1%26saslc%3D1&_salic=1&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=50&LH_Complete=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$80</a>
<ul>
<li>It's not the easiest to find, but it appears to be the only ITX board with eSATA, Wi-Fi, and (most importantly) USB 3.0.</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p>Alternatively, if you've having difficulty finding that motherboard...</p>
<ul>
<li>CPU | Intel i5-2500k Quad Core 3.30GHz LGA 1155 | <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/i5_2500k/164" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$60</a>
<ul>
<li>Unlocked 4c/4t for a good price</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Motherboard | <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=14&f=8&c=42,50,51,52&e=63,31,15,30,14,6,8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">One of these</a> | $110
<ul>
<li>Again, rather hard to find, but worth it if you can.</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p>And if you're still having trouble...</p>
<ul>
<li>CPU | Intel i5-4670k Quad Core LGA 1150 | <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/i5_4670k/164" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$130</a>
<ul>
<li>Another unlocked 4c/4t, just more expensive. At this point it's not much cheaper than an i3-8350k, but you'll save a bit on platform cost.</li>
</ul></li>
<li><p>Motherboard | <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#c=89,99&e=63,31,15,30,14,6,8&f=8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">One of these</a> | <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=z87+itx&_sop=12&_sadis=15&_dmd=1&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_osacat=0&_ipg=50&_stpos=97291&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xz87+itx+wifi.TRS1&_nkw=z87+itx+wifi&_sacat=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$80</a></p>
<ul>
<li>There's significantly better availability for mITX 1150 boards, so I'd have no worries about finding one of these</li>
</ul></li>
<li><p>CPU Cooler | Cryorig C7 | <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Lbhj4D/cryorig-cpu-cooler-c7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$30</a></p>
<ul>
<li>Same reasoning as before.</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Memory | 2x8GB DDR3 | <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/2x8gb_ddr3/170083" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$90</a>
<ul>
<li>It's still much lower than DDR4 prices, but the RAM shortages have tricked down to last gen as well. Again, speed isn't a big factor here–especially since we won't be using integrated graphics.</li>
<li>Depending, you may find it worth stepping down to 8GB of DDR3 in order to get a component you want–likely a GPU.</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB SSD | <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3kL7YJ/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$90</a>
<ul>
<li>We'll stick with the 850 EVO from earlier for the same reasons, though we'll need to use a 2.5" SATA drive rather than M.2 (unless you manage to get one of the five Z97 boards on the list that have an M.2 slot.)</li>
</ul></li>
<li>GPU | Reference GTX 970 4GB | <a href="https://us.bidvoy.net/reference_gtx_970/27386" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$190</a>
<ul>
<li>Because we'll be installing the card in a small form factor case, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiDZNT7mxLQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">we'll want a blower-style GPU</a> to keep from dumping hot air back into the case.</li>
<li>Unfortunately, the GTX 970 is pretty much the cap for budget–stepping this up to from a GTX 960 4GB is about $60. One of the issues here is that power consumption really does start to play a role–not just because we want to keep out system cool and quiet, but because high-wattage SFX PSUs are expensive. This rules out older cards like the GTX 780 and AMD cards from the era. Mid and high end cards are sold out across the board, thanks to mining and the subsequent card shortages; your only other option is really to <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=GPU&sort=new&restrict_sr=on&feature=legacy_search" rel="nofollow noreferrer">watch for stock like a hawk</a> and hope that a GTX 1060 is in stock.</li>
<li>Depending on what deals you find, you may be forced down either to a GTX 960 or 8GB of RAM.</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>TOTAL: $496-$565</strong></p>
<p>The savings aren't as much with mITX systems as full towers, but it's still a good chunk of change for significantly better performance.</p>
<h3>AMD List</h3>
<p>AMD's older offerings just simply aren't competitive, and stock is much lower to boot.</p>
<h1>Peripherals</h1>
<p>I'm too tired to go into this in too much depth–and I think it might warrant its own question–but the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJEBaeiSwkM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Roccat Sova MK</a> for M/KB, and a PS4/Xbox One controller if you want a controller.</p>
<hr>
<p>I think that's about it! I hope this helped, and I'll be happy to answer any questions you have.</p>
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8705
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2018-01-06T21:33:36.983
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|mini-pc|
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<p>I want to build a PC with my son. Or rather, at some point have it so he gets to build it (I'm thinking of torturing him by re-formatting Linux every so often and having him reinstall it). I'd like to do with it mini-ITX for a number of reasons, one of which is that he could take it over to his mom's on alternate weeks.</p>
<p>I have build PCs from scratch before, but a long time ago, on full size desktops. I'm also fairly comfortable with Linux installs.</p>
<p>Here are some criteria/considerations for me:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Relatively cheap to start out with, but room to improve or swap components.</p></li>
<li><p>based on Linux, so hardware needs to support it. Don't want really spiffy feature set that needs Windows drivers to work. Related to that - a mobo/chipset that doesn't require extreme UEFI mangling before it will boot from a Linux boot USB.</p></li>
<li><p>gaming? Light gaming, possibly via Steam and possibly output to a 1080p TV via HDMI (1.3?). I also have big gaming monitor. But first we need to get working.</p></li>
<li><p>I'd prefer a motherboard with some basic onboard GPU, but allowing me to add a better discrete GPU later on (that's related to #1 and #3).</p></li>
<li><p>Still relatively small, because he should be able to take the box itself, minus peripherals, with him to his mom.</p></li>
<li><p>AMD? Even before the recent security mess, I was thinking of them, just because I like them. But I think I saw people being concerned about the quality/cost of AMD Ryzen minit-ITX boards.</p></li>
<li><p>High speed support for external HDDs (offline backups) - USB3 or eSata.</p></li>
<li><p>low power, relatively silent, even if that clashes a bit with the (light) gaming.</p></li>
<li><p>Finally, quality, quality, quality, rather than just features. I'd never recommend ACER over ASUS in laptops for example, that's just my own personal prejudices.</p></li>
<li><p>Peripherals. What about a console-style controller or wireless mouse and keyboards, esp if it's being used with the TV. Anything to be careful about?</p></li>
</ol>
<p>Share some pointers or war stories? I'm not so much asking for detailed parts list as general considerations of what to look out for from people who've done this and the reasoning that would lead you to choose one class of components over another.</p>
<p>Edit: budget 400-600$ preferably, not including monitor, keyboard and mouse. To an extent, I'm good with used, and we have some really good donation places - rather get good stuff at core, w cheap secondary stuff that I can swap out later. A cheap used, or new, GPU would be OK too, I can always update it later.</p>
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general mini-ITX recommendations
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